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I'm about to start painting some Kroot to hang out with my Tau dudes, and I want them to be a kind of mottled sandy colour. The basing theme for the army is desert (Gorthor Brown > Agrax Earthshade > drybrushed Rakarth Flesh) and the general Tau colours are reddish brown. As always, a scheme that would be easy to do is a bonus. I've seen people's Plaguebearers speed painted using lots of washes or something? I wonder if anyone who's done it might have some ideas for how to make it a bit yellower, sandier, and less gross looking. Edit: Here's one of the guys they'll be hanging out with. Squibsy fucked around with this message at 22:47 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 9, 2013 22:44
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 08:23 |
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You can paint using entirely washes over a base like white or grey. I tried it not so long ago. It certainly saves time, but you don't get the same depth of color as other techniques. To make it cleaner you'll want to avoid pooling. Adding gloss varnish to your washes will help with that. I can't really speak about the colors though.
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May 9, 2013 23:31
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What brands do you guys use for varnishing? I've read here to spray gloss varnish on first, since it's harder, then do matte varnish to kill the reflectiveness, but the one time I bought some varnish in the past I just wrecked some models. As I go through my Oath stuff I want to get it all nice and sealed (esp. since I'm going to use it on a tabletop) but I don't really know what to use As an aside, spraying varnish all over my poo poo is going to dull out the washes I put on, right? I don't see why it wouldn't.
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May 10, 2013 00:41
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I use diluted Vallejo Gloss Varnish (roughly 2 parts water, 1 part gloss). Paint this on with an old (clean) brush. Once you've covered the model, rinse the brush and go over the model again making sure the varnish is nicely spread out. Leave to dry for 24 hours. If you want extra protection, then repeat this process once more. (Two thin coats like this is much better than one thick coat - hence the diluting). Then I use Army Painter Matt spray. This will add an extra layer of protection, but its main purpose is to kill the shine from the gloss. This is really easy to screw up - Don't do it in a humid area. It is vital that you do extremely short sprays - like less than half second. I mount the model on something for easing handling, and give it several very quick sprays from each direction. Let it dry for a few minutes and inspect it. The shine should be mostly dulled. If not, give it another series of quick bursts from each direction. If you over-do this bit, you'll end up giving the model a frosty appearance. This can sometimes be remedied by going back over it with another very thinned down layer of gloss like in the first step.
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May 10, 2013 00:55
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Under 15 posted:What brands do you guys use for varnishing? I've read here to spray gloss varnish on first, since it's harder, then do matte varnish to kill the reflectiveness, but the one time I bought some varnish in the past I just wrecked some models. As I go through my Oath stuff I want to get it all nice and sealed (esp. since I'm going to use it on a tabletop) but I don't really know what to use Gloss varnish will deepen your colors, matte will wash it out. That's just a factor of how we see light and color and varying brands will do it to varying degrees but you can't totally avoid it. Matte black will never be as pure deep black as gloss black, for instance. I use Future floor polish for gloss and Liquitex Matte for matte, both through an airbrush. Before the airbrush I used Krylon Krystal Klear or somesuch for Gloss and good old Testor's Dullcote for matte.
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May 10, 2013 00:58
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Deanut Pancer posted:If you over-do this bit, you'll end up giving the model a frosty appearance. That's what happened. I still have the spray varnish from before, so maybe I'll give it a shot on something expendable, change up my technique, and see if that helps.
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May 10, 2013 01:10
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Under 15 posted:That's what happened. I still have the spray varnish from before, so maybe I'll give it a shot on something expendable, change up my technique, and see if that helps. In my experience frosty varnish can always be saved by going back over with a layer of gloss, and then matte again.
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May 10, 2013 01:37
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JoshTheStampede posted:In my experience frosty varnish can always be saved by going back over with a layer of gloss, and then matte again. I've done this too, just make sure it's not too humid out and the can is well shaken.
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May 10, 2013 02:09
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I use testors dullcote and glosscoat diluted about 2:1 with water/alcohol/airbrush thinner. My final layer is gloss followed by dull (which I learned from goons on here). Here’s some other tips I learned about :
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May 10, 2013 02:19
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TarDolphinorShark posted:
PART O' THE CREW, PART O' THE SHIP They look like they're covered in coral, and that's way cooler than generic plague crap. Run with it, make an entire army of ocean-themed marines.
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May 10, 2013 04:52
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Entire army of ocen-themed marines you saaay? Seen these? The Mariners Blight by Eye of Error are awesome (though, I do think he overdoes it juuust a little on the corrosion).
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May 10, 2013 08:32
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Under 15 posted:What brands do you guys use for varnishing? Most everyone here will swear by Dullcote as the best matte varnish, and most folks will tell you to stay away from Citadel Purity Seal. I've seen magazine articles where pro modellers use Purity Seal, though, so it could just be confirmation bias and a variety of factors (humidity, one bad model, a bad batch, whatever) that keeps pretty much everyone from recommending Purity Seal. One of the guys in my group uses it and is happy with it. airbrushing matte varnish info, might be helpful to someone: I've just started trying out stuff other than Dullcote to use through my airbrush - I don't want to have to buy a few cans at a time, and I don't want to have to go outside to varnish my stuff (I paint in the loft, up 2 sets of steep stairs). I tried Vallejo Matte Varnish but it comes out REALLY dusty when it's dried. I tried a second time with the same product on the same models, making sure that it was WET when it hit, and it still dries to a haze. So I tried Vallejo Satin Varnish and that comes out pretty much like Dullcote! except there's no fumes, which is great. I've started spraying at about 15psi and thinning stuff quite a lot, even Minitaire, so the Vallejo varnishes I thin 1:1. If I had any matte medium left I would have tried that, as well, I'm sure that would come out pretty good.
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May 10, 2013 08:58
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Yup, I thought satin was supposed to leave a slightly glossy coat but vallejos stuff looks pretty flat to me.
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May 10, 2013 09:05
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Yeah, heh, one thing about art supplies: when you're trying new stuff, you end up with lots of opened stuff that can't be returned and that will just collect dust until you give it to a new painter/player/kid who doesn't have any stuff of their own.
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May 10, 2013 09:12
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Crosspost from the Oath thread:Commissar Kip posted:
Comments, Reactions, Questions like "Why the hell did you go through so much detailing mud?"?
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May 10, 2013 11:21
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WIP WIP WIP WIP 
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thespaceinvader posted:Entire army of ocen-themed marines you saaay? Seen these? Those are cool and all, but I meant more like dudes with shark heads and crab claws, like the crew of the Flying Dutchman from the Pirates of the Caribbean movies.
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May 10, 2013 12:40
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New tablecloth for the living room. Girlfriend will be sooo happy...
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May 10, 2013 15:30
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krushgroove posted:Most everyone here will swear by Dullcote as the best matte varnish, and most folks will tell you to stay away from Citadel Purity Seal. I've seen magazine articles where pro modellers use Purity Seal, though, so it could just be confirmation bias and a variety of factors (humidity, one bad model, a bad batch, whatever) that keeps pretty much everyone from recommending Purity Seal. One of the guys in my group uses it and is happy with it. Were those magazine articles in White Dwarf, by chance? 
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May 10, 2013 15:33
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JoshTheStampede posted:Were those magazine articles in White Dwarf, by chance? Ha - no actually, the UK Tamiya model magazine, which doesn't concentrate on military or planes or anything, it's a mix of different static model disciplines.
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May 10, 2013 15:34
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The forgeworld model masterclass books talk about using purity seal, ok fair enough they'd be understandably biased, but then they go on to use non-gw paints for things and I don't know who to believe any more 
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May 10, 2013 15:57
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Hamshot posted:The forgeworld model masterclass books talk about using purity seal, ok fair enough they'd be understandably biased, but then they go on to use non-gw paints for things and I don't know who to believe any more They only say they use non-GW things where there isn't an equivalent. they sneak a few things in here and there, but GW want them to mention anything you can get in a GW store. In actuality they don't use alot of the things they have to say they do, and instead just name the closest GW thing. Much like the little masterclass painting book.
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May 10, 2013 16:09
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That's also why they sometimes list using like, mixes of 5 different paints. It's because they used some VMC color there's no exact match for so they mixed up as close as they could get for the book.
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May 10, 2013 16:12
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JoshTheStampede posted:That's also why they sometimes list using like, mixes of 5 different paints. It's because they used some VMC color there's no exact match for so they mixed up as close as they could get for the book. I don't know if this was exactly the same reason, but I was so annoyed when I started out trying to paint Space Wolves as a newbie and their recommendation was to mix paint. Only two colors, but that's for the base color that's going to go over all the armor and poo poo, and why would you not just make the appropriate paint for the color that's all over one of your major armies Do any other codexes have this problem?Of course I ended up just going with Codex Grey, which arguably looks better anyway. 
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May 10, 2013 16:28
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There's a set of paints made by Andrea Miniatures for painting black cloth (and another for white, etc). It comes with 5 different shades of black, and a set of instructions on how to make perfect black. Every step is a mix of two of these arbitrary shades of black. Why the gently caress wouldn't you just premix them in so the steps match the bottles instead of having step 1 be 1+2, step 2 be 2+3 and so on?
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May 10, 2013 16:31
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Silhouette posted:PART O' THE CREW, PART O' THE SHIP That is sort of what I was going for. Well not to a huge extent but barnacles and coral where my inspiration for the rot.
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May 10, 2013 16:59
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Finished the first two models of a unit of Pink Horrors for my eventual Chaos Daemons army. Going to take a break from pink and get to work on my Skull Cannon of Khorne next.
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May 10, 2013 18:23
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Crossposting! For any of you in the Milton Keynes area Campaign 2013 is on tomorrow in the centre. It's not the biggest show but there's usually a decent variety of games and traders in attendance.
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May 10, 2013 19:33
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A WIP from my oath of 1/72 skeletons The skeleton on the left is a sepia wash over white done by my 12 year old cousin. The one on the right is devlan mud over bone color with a light drybrush done by myself. I am ashamed to admit that frankly my little cousin's choice was better. Unfortunately I'm almost out of sepia. drat it all! My goal is to paint the skeletons something like this 'tone' 
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May 10, 2013 19:36
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PierreTheMime posted:Finished the first two models of a unit of Pink Horrors for my eventual Chaos Daemons army. Going to take a break from pink and get to work on my Skull Cannon of Khorne next. I really like these. I normally don't care for daemons but these look daemony with out looking gross, which I like. also the OSL is nice, not to over the top but still adds a lot.
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May 10, 2013 19:54
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What is the general thoughts on Kings of War? I know the first impression is oh god a Warhammer rip off, but I have been reading up on it and I like a lot of the things they do. Fast play and way less fiddly for example, another thing that really striked me as neat is that the figures are not removed until the whole unit is wiped out. This means you can do mini dioramas, I really like this idea.
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May 10, 2013 20:23
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Kind of a crosspost as I finished the Plague Toads for this month's oath. I'm pretty happy with how the Nurgle portion of my Daemon army is coming along so far! Now for some question content. I'm practising on Pink Horrors ready for next month's oath and decided to try my hand at OSL. Now, I've not really done it before, but I kind of understand the general principle and wanted to get some opinions/pointers on my first effort. I'm trying to keep it relatively vivid to match the paint scheme of the model itself. 
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May 10, 2013 21:33
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Them's some good toads.
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May 10, 2013 22:59
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I tried out sepia wash instead of devlan mud and it looks nice and cartoony, in line with my current crop of fantasy 1/72s. A comparison shot: 
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May 11, 2013 00:44
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I have been fiddling with these guys a little too long and I think I have lost my objectivity. Are these any good? I am making a Redemptionist Gang, but I don't know if these models really sell the feel of that gang. It may be in part to the fact that I am trying to make them also function as Cawdor (hence the Heavy with the bolter); what do you think? JUVES  DEVOTEES  CRUSADERS   DEACONS  ZEALOTS  PRIESTS 
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May 11, 2013 02:46
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HardCoil posted:New tablecloth for the living room. Girlfriend will be sooo happy... splash some dayglo orange paint on that. Instant lava fields. Im sure she wont mind
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May 11, 2013 02:52
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That Pink Horror has an awesome basecoat. I've taken a break for painting for a while, but ordered some Serenity lookalike stuff from Ground Zero Games since my friends are getting into Full thrust. Did the Serenity and three bases to represent fighter squads. Was a lot of fun to paint and get back into the groove again, since I have about 2000 points of Elves I need to finish.  Not pictured: 15mm Firefly crew. Never painted at the 15mm scale before, this should be fun. A question for the painters: How do you get over the annoyance of painting 50 dudes the same? I tried getting an assembly line set up, and painting the 50th red shield in a row is really getting to me -- it's what had me stop painting originally.
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May 11, 2013 05:53
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Verdugo posted:
The short answer is you don't. It's annoying, that's just how it goes. So instead you break it up into more manageable parts. I find my sweet spot is seven models at a time, particularly if I've got a chunk of them that are the same pose/details. Bang out all of them that are exactly the same and then move onto the next set that are just slightly different, rinse and repeat. Also, just make the painting activity the background to whatever you're more interested in, watching a movie or something or listening to music or podcasts or whatever.
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May 11, 2013 07:03
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Verdugo posted:
I'm not a very good painting, but I find ten to be the optimal number for assembly painting. Any more than that and I get bored. Less than that, and it's not as efficient. With ten models I'm never stuck on one part for too long.
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May 11, 2013 07:21
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Never, ever, paint without something in the background to engage your brain. Commentaries, radio shows, TV programmes/films you've already seen but like enough to listen to again, podcasts. Painting with the right background noise is a zen-like relaxation technique, painting without it is a tedious chore. At least for me. As to assembly lines, try not to go for 70 at a time, that gets old quite quickly. Especially when you realise you just did the largest area on all of them in the wrong colour. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 14:58 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 08:30
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Ooh I'm glad we're on this topic - I listen to commentaries, podcasts, battle reports, and last night I started with stand-up comedy specials on youtube. Helped SO much when it came to painting the vein bits on the Heldrake! I also have a ton of Watch Later videos saved in my youtube account, those autoplay one after another, so if you're more into documentaries or lectures or talks or whatever just find them on youtube or hulu and save them to a playlist and you're golden. You can also set up a Google + hangout or use Skype to virtually paint with a buddy, show off what you're working on, talk tactics and painting techniques, etc. I did that earlier this week for the first time.
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May 11, 2013 10:02
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