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Just the A-arm crane setup. I was bored so I modified it to fit that too. Fortunately, I had taken its recovery point dimensions into account when I built the A-arm in the first place, so I just had to cut a little off the mounting tabs on the A-arm to clear a few bolt heads and bam, it fit. It still needs some air lines patched, the new tires put on, new paint, a few minor cab repairs, a new passenger seat (optional), a new head gasket, a head resurface/valve job ("while I'm in there"), and a few bolts for the radiator mount in addition to a pair of new batteries and possibly an in-chassis re-bearing job on the bottom end. I can't register it as an antique until january 2 2015 anyhow, so I'm not in much of a hurry at this point.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:28
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kastein posted:Just the A-arm crane setup. I was bored so I modified it to fit that too. Fortunately, I had taken its recovery point dimensions into account when I built the A-arm in the first place, so I just had to cut a little off the mounting tabs on the A-arm to clear a few bolt heads and bam, it fit. Having a hosed passenger seat is never a deadlining fault IIRC. Just works better to keep the assistant driver awake during long trips.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:32
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So what will you buy when you need something to recover the 5-tonner? 
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Apr 10, 2013 22:35
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An M816. The only remaining vehicles I've considered purchasing are a Jeep J20, a Kaiser-Jeep M715, and an M816. If I got any one of those I'd immediately shitcan the POS XJ. Oh, and I should probably throw a factory winch on the M54A2 before I do anything stupid with it. They "only" cost around a grand on craigslist generally.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:44
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kastein posted:An M816. The pos xj could practically be made redundant by finishing the 5.9 mj and your cargo trailer. Backup vehicle and storage respectively.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:49
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Not really. The XJ is a beater and will remain as such until I get incredibly lucky and find a J20/M715 to replace it. The 5.9 MJ is not and will never be a beater.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:59
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This isn't a jeep, but it might as well be. Makes it up the hill out of my yard with no wheelspin, unlike one of my jeeps... Fixed a bunch of electrical poo poo on it today and got it to the point (finally) that I can put the key in, turn it, and it starts. And then turn it again and it stops. Now it just needs... - a new PTO clutch switch so I can take out the bypass jumper I installed to make the starter work, and also so I can make the PTO clutch work. - a headlight switch (mine's dead) - a choke cable and pull handle - probably a set of new tires sometime, mine are badly dry rotted. They'll do for now - a brake cable so both rear wheels stop instead of only one - un-rednecking a variety of wires that have been hacked up by previous owners. Oh, and I should probably fix the mower deck up and get it mounted up so I can actually mow my lawn with it instead of just pissing off one neighbor and making the other two jealous. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9AYAXyJjVc </crosspost>
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Apr 13, 2013 22:39
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kastein posted:
Yeah, you don't want to lose one of those while flying down the street at 80.
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Apr 14, 2013 00:17
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So like a retard, I sheared the ujoint strap bolts on my rear ds. 
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Apr 14, 2013 02:03
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I really need to hurry up and find a M35A2 
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Apr 14, 2013 02:09
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CommieGIR posted:I really need to hurry up and find a M35A2 commissargribb posted:So like a retard, I sheared the ujoint strap bolts on my rear ds. Ozmiander posted:Yeah, you don't want to lose one of those while flying down the street at 80. 80... feet per minute, maybe.
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Apr 14, 2013 04:34
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Is that thing as unsteady as it looks? Backing up there it looked like you had to lean to keep it from tipping over.
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Apr 14, 2013 04:41
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Photos from yesterday: Went shooting at a gravel pit.  pew pew  Then this happened.  And my rear DS had to come out.
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Apr 14, 2013 14:56
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You shot the wrong pit.
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Apr 14, 2013 17:22
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSu3lelXNGQ
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Apr 14, 2013 21:10
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Sudo Echo posted:Is that thing as unsteady as it looks? Backing up there it looked like you had to lean to keep it from tipping over. commissargribb posted:Photos from yesterday:  Red circles: smoking gun for pinion/leaf wrap issues. You can see the chewed up areas where the ujoint strap bolts have contacted the driveshaft's yoke, and also the dent on the driveshaft's yoke ear where it contacted the pinion yoke. Stronger ujoint straps or strap bolts will only make for broken ujoints instead of broken strap bolts and straps - the only fix for this is either more careful throttle application or a traction bar. I blew up my driveshaft the same way a couple years ago in my old XJ (auto trans was having issues, lurched into gear suddenly coming from a dead stop, so instead of pulling away from a stop sign smoothly, I accidentally neutral dropped it from 3-4k rpm without even touching the shifter. Driveshaft ended up on the ground.) Blew one up in the MJ last summer wheeling, same problem, though the driveshaft riding on some rocks and the tires not being on the ground compounded it a bit.
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Apr 15, 2013 03:05
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Sell anything at stafford? I saw ya there, but didn't want to be all goony and say a creepy hello followed by awkward silence, and you were busy, plus it was motherfucking balls shrinkly cold.
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Apr 15, 2013 17:41
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poo poo, you did? I was with Billy Tully and ACEofsnett, you should have said something. We were being goony and making grossly inappropriate jokes the whole time anyways. I sold everything I threw in the truck on a whim right before leaving and nothing that I intended to sell. Oh well, at least I'm not the owner of a homelite chainsaw anymore.
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Apr 15, 2013 17:44
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I sold exactly nothing except the stuff my uncle gave me to sell WTF was up with the weather this weekend, it wasn't like April at all, especially at 4am when we were setting up.
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Apr 15, 2013 17:49
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Finally got my transfer case shift linkage working. Was easier than I thought. Materials required: 2x NP231 shift arms (the flat plate bit that bolts onto the side of the transfer case with a 9/16 nut and has the little goofy rubber bushing and shift linkage pushed into it) 1x big-rear end 7/16 grade 8 bolt. I think I used a 6" but not sure, it could have been an inch or two shorter. 1x 7/16 flange nut. around 3-4" of 1x0.281 DOM. 7/16 ID, OD is unimportant as long as wall thickness is at least 3/16" or so. I couldn't find actual DOM in this size, so I ended up with 1x.312 or so and had to bore it out. I'd probably use 0.75x0.156" DOM if I was going to buy it just for this project, as that has an ID of .438, then just run a 7/16 drill through it after welding the bellcrank arms on to make sure it's an easy slip fit onto a 7/16 bolt. welder, beer, angle grinder, etc. 7/16 UNC tap and tap handle. This method only works for AX15 equipped XJs/MJs/ZJs/probably TJs. YJs already have a better design, and automatics don't have the bolt hole required. I cut the head off the bigass bolt, threaded the flange nut all the way up it facing the wrong way until it jammed on the unthreaded shank (i.e. I made a smooth 7/16 stud with a hex head at the base and 7/16-UNC threads below that) and then threaded that into one of the mounting holes on the side of the AX15 - the forward one. Those mounting holes are there because exactly the same transmission housing casting is used on various Dakotas and YJs, which mount the transfer case shift lever to the side of the transmission instead of the trans tunnel using a stupid bellcrank setup. Then I took my piece of DOM, slid it onto the smooth shank of the bolt now firmly attached to the transmission, cut and ground the two NP231 shift arms to have the proper length/throw and angle, welded them in place, pressed the bushings back in, and slapped it on there. Works perfectly. (click for big on both pics)   This uses the stock 5 speed shift linkages, the only things that are replaced are the idiotic trans tunnel and transmission mounting brackets and the bellcrank. Make sure you chase the threads for the pivot bolt/stud thing with a 7/16 tap or it'll never thread in properly. This won't work on an auto, so use the BSFab method discussed a page or two ago instead. It works fine on autos because there's more length between the tcase shifter and the NP231, as the auto trans is 1.5-2" longer than the manual. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 22:32
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Oh yeah. I decided to get the 1000lbs of big dumb axles out of the back of the truck again so I can theoretically go wheeling soon.  Pretty sure I don't need to worry about putting a liftgate on anything I own, ever.
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Apr 18, 2013 01:11
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Threw the color matched nose on the blue MJ so it would stop looking so horrible. Now it only looks half horrible. In the process found out that the radiator is on its very last legs (fins fell out when I looked at it funny and it's definitely been in a minor collision) and both the nose panel that was on the MJ and the one I put on had a variety of "fuckin PO  " things going on. Someone thought wire nuts were meant for cars and another few people thought deck screws and duct tape were good for installing light bezels and trim.No fucks given, it's all temporary till I throw the V8 and late model nose on it anyways. Bolted it on and pretended I saw nothing.
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Apr 18, 2013 15:22
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The headlight bezels on my tj look like deck screws too, but they have torx heads.
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Apr 18, 2013 15:42
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These were actual deck screws - or maybe drywall screws, I wasn't sure. Coarse thread ones about 2" long, to be specific... 
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Apr 18, 2013 15:44
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Astonishing Wang posted:The headlight bezels on my tj look like deck screws too, but they have torx heads. Do they look like deckmate screws? those have T25 heads.
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Apr 18, 2013 19:47
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 shiny new parts. I swear I didn't put that tan paint on the threads
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Apr 19, 2013 01:13
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Did you get the bolt shanks out?
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Apr 19, 2013 01:46
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Ozmiander posted:Did you get the bolt shanks out? I think we're going to wait and try to remove the broken bolts with the yokes removed.
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Apr 19, 2013 04:36
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Hopefully they'll come out without pulling the yoke, because pulling the yoke is a pain in the rear end. I ran a thread chaser through the yoke bolt holes before putting everything together so there's a pretty good chance the busted bolts will come out without too much of a fight. Today: put a new transmission in a 94 YJ with a 2.5/manual/4x4. Also patched 21" of the bottom of each frame rail where the crossmember bolts on, it was paper thin and perforated in a few places. Cut out horribly rusted section, sleeved with sections cut from 3x3 1/4 wall box tube. Welded 1/2" nuts to the inside of the sleeves in the appropriate spots to replace the factory riv-nuts for the crossmember - that abysmal design is actually why it failed, as usual the frame rotted out around each rivnut. Recoated the whole inside of the frame with Eastwoods internal frame coating, painted the whole outside with Hammerite. Installed brand new crossmember. Oh, threw in a new clutch/PP/throwout bearing/pilot bearing while I was in there. Holy hell that took a while... between the welding and installing the transmission plus running around town for poo poo I forgot we needed, around 16 hours. Started at 1PM (when the jeep arrived), finished at 3AM. The old transmission has about a mile of play in the input shaft, was full of what appears to be some horrible taco bell induced butt mud, and was stuck in second gear. I suspect every single bearing in it is trashed, once I tear it down I think the horrible mechanical failures thread will need some pictures.
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Apr 19, 2013 08:52
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Don't forget the special dark metalshake, I want to see that delicious-sounding poo poo!
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Apr 19, 2013 10:00
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I'm not sure how much metal is in it, it looks like extra thick mocha. I suspect it's mostly oil, mud, water, and rust, with little in the way of metallic content...
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Apr 19, 2013 16:45
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Friday/Saturday: regeared the front diff in Sandbagger. First time I've ever actually done a ring and pinion install, came out a little tight on bearing preload but the pattern was good and it'll probably loosen up a bit when it breaks in. I've never actually had a diff with brand new bearings in it, only 150k mile ones that no one ever changed the fluid in, so I might just not be used to what a newly geared diff feels like. Beat the absolute poo poo out of the offroad MJ today, did a few obstacles that I frankly expected to blow an axleshaft on. Didn't break anything, at least until I and one of the guys in my club with a 5-speed ZJ* (the red one I've posted on dana 44s and 35" MTZs) decided we were going to go fast for a bit. We proceeded to top out 4th/5th gear (I'm undergeared, so I only made it to the top of 4th) on bumpy rock filled dirt roads, both ended up airborne at one point. When I stopped, I discovered I had torn the bushing eyelet on the bottom of my front left shock completely off of it, it's gone, have no idea where it ended up. The front right shock ended up breaking in half by the time I got home, too. Spares are sitting in the attic brand new so I'll slap em in and keep going... Checking the tooth contact pattern on the dana 30 for Sandbagger for the billionth time, only took another few tries after that:  (big hands in a small rear end set up tight  )* two of the dudes in the club have bright red, 5 speed, 1994 ZJ grand cherokees. Two of 400 ever made. Hopefully a few pics and/or videos get uploaded.
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Apr 28, 2013 23:27
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Some pics are up from the wheeling run! Time to throttle down and blast up a steep rocky muddy hillclimb I had no business making it up with bald allterrains.  What, you gonna go offroading in that thing?     dat fitment    Possibly my favorite shot so far. Rev limiter, second gear, low range, walking up a climb (admittedly on the 3rd or 4th try) that a YJ locked at both ends with 36" mud tires had a lot of trouble with. Speedo: 25mph   Front to back: 5 speed '94 ZJ on dana 44s and 35" MTZs, my pile, Sandbagger, 5 speed '94 ZJ with budget boost, and the club president's rusty SAS'd 4runner, 3vze, 5.29 gears, 34" LTBs.      Sandbagger      A little difficulty on a few spots, so I did some spotting           Lookout point we took a break at. Sandbagger was running a bit hot so the hood's up... pretty sure it needs a bit more coolant, possibly another cooling system flush, and still need to install the Volvo 2-speed cooling fan.  e: videos! http://s670.photobucket.com/user/sandbagger0/media/VIDEO0040_zps0f51fbe4.mp4.html Gets good around 0:40 when I stop fumblefucking around in a stupid mudhole: http://s670.photobucket.com/user/sandbagger0/media/VIDEO0039_zpsfe9eb7c9.mp4.html Sandbagger: http://s670.photobucket.com/user/sandbagger0/media/VIDEO0041_zps57cc8ee3.mp4.html loving around on a fun little ledge, it looks a lot steeper when you're looking at the sky and punching the throttle because sliding sideways means eating that power line tower with your drip rail: http://s670.photobucket.com/user/sandbagger0/media/VIDEO0038_zpsede0216e.mp4.html All swiped from a friend's photobucket: http://s146.photobucket.com/user/billyjp2/library/Backyard%204%2028%202013?sort=3&page=1 kastein fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 29, 2013 02:14
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Off-roading day! woo! pics not necessarily in order. Today was awesome! The weather was superb and of course the top had to come off. I tried to take it easy on the obstacles because I still had to drive back home to Maine but nonetheless I got a pretty good feel for my new gears and 4-low.     And some videos  ^ I had a hell of a time getting past the 2nd half of this one.  
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Apr 29, 2013 02:15
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How much do you think a running M816 would actually cost to buy? Not counting the theoretically infinite cost of ownership.
solarNativity fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 29, 2013 16:04
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There is one with a ginormous plow for sale in Minnesota for $9400 asking price right now. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/3699751701.html That is actually a lot less than I expected. And he'll sell it for less without the plow. Look at the loving SIZE of that plow  looks to be a 12 or 14 footer if I had to guess.
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Apr 29, 2013 16:17
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kastein posted:There is one with a ginormous plow for sale in Minnesota for $9400 asking price right now. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/3699751701.html If I was really dedicated, I might snatch it up, but I live in Texas so that's a bit far. And jesus loving christ that plow is massive. If only I had snow! E: http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3634063711.html Only like, 300 miles away and approaching twice as expensive, with a description pulled straight from Wikipedia. solarNativity fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 29, 2013 16:26
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Finally decided to pull the junk AX5 apart that I'd removed when repairing the frame rails, installing a new trans crossmember, and installing a new clutch+transmission on a friend of a friend's '94 YJ. Symptoms: very hard to shift, leaking oil like a sieve, bellhousing leaking some sort of disgusting sludge, randomly sticks in second gear and has to be pounded on to get it back out. Grinds. Finally stuck in second gear so badly it wouldn't come back out for any reason. What came out of it  (the clear spot is from water that was in the bottom of the transmission)  mmmmmmm, tasty.  apparently the clutch had a haircut recently  little bit o' play in the input bearing  it wobbles the other way too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYvG_UGUCFk you know what really grinds my gears?  the fluid between the spirals is water. This is one of the shift rail detent springs.  dear seal spring: what are you doing here?  why did half of a synchro clutch key just fall out of the tail housing into my hand?  input shaft bearing got just a little toasty. Maybe this has something to do with why there's a ridiculous amount of slop in the input shaft and you can hear it grind when you turn the shaft  hey, I found the other half of the synchro clutch key! Why is it dented?  together again Chapter 2, or "why the synchro clutch key was dented":  look at the teeth on the countershaft gear closest to the center of the pic   couple little chunks out of the mainshaft gear that mates with it, too. I wonder why?  can't see it real well due to my amazing photography skills, but the flange on the mainshaft in between the caged bearings that second/third ride on is... shattered. In multiple pieces. The only reason it's even still inside the gear train is because it's trapped by the shape of the two gears. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:15 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 18:08
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Further casualties: #1-4 synchros are trash all 3 synchro clutch keys for 3-4 synchro hub are demolished. One is pictured, I found another stuck to the drain plug magnet, and I believe I found what was left of the last one as I've located two well-masticated chunks of metal that appear to be around the right size to be the last one. mainshaft is toast countershaft midplate bearing is toast (I could probably salvage it if I wanted to, but every needle bearing has galling/corrosion/overheating damage at each end) #5 synchro is actually in beautiful shape. #5 counter gear bearing is passable, but for some inexplicable reason has a handful of 2-3mm chunks of debris stuck to it? mainshaft-input shaft pilot bearings (loose needle bearings, looks like you have to pack them in a little grease to get them to stay during assembly) actually look far better than I expected given the input shaft bearing condition. I haven't disassembled the stack of gears on the mainshaft yet - and it looks like the major carnage is right in the middle of that stack. Here goes. Bits:  (what's all that chunky poo poo stuck to the left bearing shell?)  wasted #4 synchro  if I didn't suck at taking pictures, you could see the damage from chunks of synchro clutch key being jammed into the inside of the trans housing. The web from the countershaft bearing journal to the outer case and the boss that the reverse idler gearshaft sits in are where the damage is. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:21 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 21:14
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Final verdict: Output shaft is toast as I thought. Most other parts are in passable to good condition, aside from anything I already said was hosed.   I have no idea how that happens. Actually, I have a few ideas, but haven't really convinced myself any of them are accurate yet. e: to be clear, the flange about 1/4 from the left end of part #14 in this diagram is the one that's cracked in those pictures, taken from the left end:  e2: I am fairly certain after looking at things that I know what happened. 1. synchros wore out. They're all trashed. Probably due to age, careless driving, bad maintenance (running mud as trans lube), etc. 2. shift forks are slightly worn. 3. between 1. and 2. I believe the shift collar for gears #3/#4 (part 11 in the diagram) was able to slide far enough over that the #3/#4 synchro clutch keys (part 10, seen previously in multiple pieces in the pictures) were able to pop out. 4. at least one synchro clutch key made its way thence into the #3 gears (the ones pictured with chunks taken out of the teeth, part 12 in the diagram) resulting in a little bit of smashing/mashing. 5. shock forces from the #3 gearset inhaling a synchro clutch key (aka loving block of steel) force it against the flange its hydrodynamic bearing rides against on the mainshaft (part 14) and crack two chunks off of it. 6. fin (all damage explained  )7. it's difficult to get the transmission into 2nd gear when the hydrodynamic bearing it thrusts against is 1. missing about 2/3 of its surface 2. galled to poo poo 3. there is very little left of the synchro rings where the synchro clutch keys ride on them. I found one of the #3 counter gear teeth in the bottom of the trans casing and in general this explains all the damage I found. The only piece of broken hardware I'm missing that's over about 3mm is half of one of the #3/#4 synchro clutch keys, it must have gotten chewed up pretty good. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 23:35
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