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evenworse username posted:I like the red/black scheme. I feel like a little more red trim somewhere would help make the whole thing pop more but nice job, man. I did consider that, maybe doing the forearms or hands red, but in the end I looked at my huge pile of models to be painted and said gently caress it. quote:Are those gems gloss coated? Seems like that would be a good thing. They arent, but thats a great idea. Will get right on that
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May 17, 2013 18:49
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Fix posted:Are those gems gloss coated? Seems like that would be a good thing.
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May 17, 2013 21:09
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So I haven't pained a whole lot in a while, but I picked up a box of empire archers the other day because they looked fun to assemble/paint. A good way to kill time. After assembling them I broke out the little bits of my old-rear end warhammer stuff and started painting. Here's what I have so far, I'm kind of proud of how this dude is coming out! 
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May 17, 2013 21:48
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Progress update: Helmet added.   Weapon attached.  
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May 17, 2013 21:51
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I'm using Testor's gloss and dull coat, how much time would you say in between the gloss and the dull is sufficient for it to dry?
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May 18, 2013 06:47
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I'm super paranoid, so I'll often give coats 24 hours. That might be overkill but better safe than sorry in my book, especially after my last bad experience with sealant.
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May 18, 2013 15:32
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Hey so I've posted this guy a couple of times so sorry if you're sick of him, but I'm just finishing him off, and I'm trying to decide if I should paint the upper circle in the Tau fire caste symbol the same colour as the rest of it. Any thoughts? 
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May 18, 2013 17:24
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No, leave it, makes it more visually interesting. If you do paint it, paint it a different colour to the armour and rest of the symbol.
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May 18, 2013 17:28
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Drythe posted:I'm using Testor's gloss and dull coat, how much time would you say in between the gloss and the dull is sufficient for it to dry? 24 hours is generally suggested, but it's complete overkill (as Fyrbrand mentioned) in most cases; it's one of those "better safe than sorry" mentalities that you can't go wrong with. However, if you're looking to speed up the process, I've personally done the following: 0) Make sure the outside humidity is low. 1) Spray Glosscote outside after extremely vigorous shaking (1 minute upside down, 90 second "rolling", 90 second right side up) 2) Bring inside and place in bathroom with ventilation fan on. 3) Let alone for 1 hour to 1.5 hours. 4) Spray Dullcote outside after extremely vigorous shaking (as step 1) 5) Repeat steps 2-4, then step 2 again. I've yet to run into any issues with fogging or damaged paint using this method, but if you're not comfortable with it, stick to the tried and true 24-hour rule.
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May 18, 2013 17:34
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Was planning to oath this dude but it turned out easier to just start painting. Flash ruins everything (hair is much darker irl, pasty flesh not unfortunately) but it's the best I can do without making any sort of effort. What colour should I paint the little sprite(?) guy under the log? Was leaning red but ugh I dunno...
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May 18, 2013 18:07
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Fujimi kits are about to become available at UK retail! 
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May 18, 2013 19:05
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Drythe posted:I'm using Testor's gloss and dull coat, how much time would you say in between the gloss and the dull is sufficient for it to dry? I'm a terrible painter and will wait 30min after airbrushing before doing something ontop of it. Sometimes I use a space heater to speed it. That said it definitely takes 24hrs or so to fully cure, but this can be an advantage. I do my weathering powders over the top of fresh (15min) varnish and it locks them in much better than just alcohol.
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May 18, 2013 21:50
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I'm going to be at my parents place the whole summer. Feel like this is a good chance to start painting stuff again. The thing is, I'm going by plane and while I can't have paint in my backpack (they might be dangerous..  ) I can have them in my luggage. Any idea if something crazy will happen to paint that will maybe cause them to explode due to the pressure and whatnot? I feel kind of dumb for asking this but yeah. I'm just thinking because the pressure might be different in the cargo hold compared to where the passengers are, or something?Edit: Guess my question really was stupid. 
Boar It fucked around with this message at 21:47 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 18, 2013 23:50
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Just finished my first oath over in the oath thread. It's the first time I've tried OSL, and it's the first time I've done a conversion. Even though it doesn't hold a candle to most of the work in this thread, I'm pretty happy.
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May 19, 2013 00:04
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Achmed Jones posted:Just finished my first oath over in the oath thread. It's the first time I've tried OSL, and it's the first time I've done a conversion. Even though it doesn't hold a candle to most of the work in this thread, I'm pretty happy. You should be. I really like the subject, where is it from?
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May 19, 2013 00:04
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Fearless posted:You should be. I really like the subject, where is it from? Thanks! It was originally Coot Jenkins, Prospector from Reaper's Savage Worlds line. I also got the violin and bow from Reaper.
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May 19, 2013 00:09
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Well I finally discovered what mix of wash is an exact match for Devlan mud. I feel pretty good about that.
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May 19, 2013 05:43
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JoshTheStampede posted:Well I finally discovered what mix of wash is an exact match for Devlan mud. I feel pretty good about that. You should totally share. I've been using a mix of sepia and black and its not quite right.
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May 19, 2013 05:46
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BULBASAUR posted:You should totally share. I've been using a mix of sepia and black and its not quite right. Yeah, I was too. This time I tried Burnt Sienna and black. 60 drops Liquitex Transparent Burnt Sienna and 20 drops black in a half oz bottle. Which incidentally is the recipe for Les's "sewer water" wash. It's a bit more saturated than Mud at that concentration but the color is dead on. And I can always dilute it by a couple of drops when I apply it. Edit: transparent burnt sienna by itself is a dead match for the old Chestnut Ink, also, which leads me to believe Devlan mud has just been chestnut ink plus black THIS WHOLE TIME. 
JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 06:14 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 05:49
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah, I was too. This time I tried Burnt Sienna and black. 60 drops Liquitex Transparent Burnt Sienna and 20 drops black in a half oz bottle. Which incidentally is the recipe for Les's "sewer water" wash. What's wrong with Agrax Earthshade? I find I generally prefer it to Devlan mud for what I am working on.
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May 19, 2013 06:45
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In a vacuum, there's nothing wrong with Agrax Earthshade. If you're trying to match a previous paint scheme that made use of Devlan Mud, however, you're not going to be happy.
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May 19, 2013 06:57
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I've been using Gryphonne Sienna and then Agrax Earthshade to punctuate the ... whatever word means the opposite of "highlights."
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May 19, 2013 08:18
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moths posted:I've been using Gryphonne Sienna and then Agrax Earthshade to punctuate the ... whatever word means the opposite of "highlights." Shading 
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May 19, 2013 08:22
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That makes so much sense now. The deeper shading, yes. I can't believe I actually typed the right word in that post but couldn't make my brain use it.
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May 19, 2013 08:44
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Some more truescale tinkering. Been looking for a simpler way to do them. This is a Chaos Termie with a chopped and realigned torso. Space marine arms, head and pack. Arms need to be bulked up a little, but that's a really minor thing  Size comparison with culist and old marine.  Just the body: 
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May 19, 2013 10:41
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HardCoil posted:Some more truescale tinkering. Been looking for a simpler way to do them. This is a Chaos Termie with a chopped and realigned torso. Space marine arms, head and pack. Arms need to be bulked up a little, but that's a really minor thing His arms stand out a bit as too small I think.
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May 19, 2013 11:29
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Yeah, they are about as thick as his naked arms would be :-) I realize I'll have to do some modeling, just trying to minimize it.
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May 19, 2013 11:50
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HardCoil posted:Yeah, they are about as thick as his naked arms would be :-) I realize I'll have to do some modeling, just trying to minimize it. Tom Servo Chaos Space Marine?
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May 19, 2013 18:38
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Does anyone have that one goon's all-Nurgle demon army? Lots of counts-as demons and scratchbuilds/conversions were in it. Plus every model looked like it stepped out of a John Blanche drawing. I thought I saved it but it turns out I didn't. 
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May 19, 2013 21:24
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I finally bought some Liquitex Matte Varnish to use through my air brush. Holy poo poo this stuff is awesome 
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May 19, 2013 21:24
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Slimnoid posted:I finally bought some Liquitex Matte Varnish to use through my air brush. Yeah I went through two or three brands before I found it but it really is crazy how much better it is. You would think varnish is varnish but definitely not.
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May 19, 2013 22:14
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I am dumb and want to paint up White Scars. What can I do to make painting white suck less, especially on vehicles? Note: painting Skull White really sucks, but I do prime white.
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May 19, 2013 22:26
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Naramyth posted:I am dumb and want to paint up White Scars. What can I do to make painting white suck less, especially on vehicles? Note: painting Skull White really sucks, but I do prime white. Use an air brush and spray Golden Fluid Acrylics Titanium White, thinned with Les Bursey's air brush thinner.
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May 19, 2013 22:33
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Anyone come across any good ways to paint large, textureless surfaces in an interesting way? I'm painting up the giant aquila on the space marine terrain as being made of rock, but it's completely flat and featureless. It's so dull I am stippling the poo poo out of it at the moment to try and make up for the complete lack of physical detail by trying to mimick the way natural rock looks when eroded, but it's hard going.
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May 19, 2013 22:58
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Lethemonster posted:Anyone come across any good ways to paint large, textureless surfaces in an interesting way? I'm painting up the giant aquila on the space marine terrain as being made of rock, but it's completely flat and featureless. It's so dull Using an airbrush with a color modulated undercoat.
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May 19, 2013 23:22
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Lethemonster posted:Anyone come across any good ways to paint large, textureless surfaces in an interesting way? I'm painting up the giant aquila on the space marine terrain as being made of rock, but it's completely flat and featureless. It's so dull Have a look at the Dark Angel Deathwing Knight shields and copy the way they've painted on cracks into the rock. Works quite well.
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May 19, 2013 23:23
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The undercoat/airbrush still left it a bit dull, and the model already has cracks in it so I wasn't too sure sure about adding some 2D ones. Maybe I could cover it in some appropriate symbols, make them look etched in?
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May 19, 2013 23:30
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Lethemonster posted:The undercoat/airbrush still left it a bit dull, and the model already has cracks in it so I wasn't too sure sure about adding some 2D ones. Or once you've painted it, superglue bits of foam on it, wait for it to dry, rip off, instant Moss.
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May 20, 2013 06:41
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serious gaylord posted:Or once you've painted it, superglue bits of foam on it, wait for it to dry, rip off, instant Moss.
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May 20, 2013 07:00
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Lethemonster posted:The undercoat/airbrush still left it a bit dull, and the model already has cracks in it so I wasn't too sure sure about adding some 2D ones. In addition to the moss that was suggested, add dirt, pebbles, graffiti and maybe scorch marks, shell impact marks or other battle damage.
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May 20, 2013 10:13
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