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Thanks, that's the type of stuff I was hoping to hear about. I'll probably run a sacrificial roll through it if/when I get my hands on one. I'm thinking of shining a bright light all around the open bellows while loaded with film to find light leaks. I mentioned the Perkeo II because it looks like literally one of the lightest 6x6 cameras out there aside from the Baby Bessa 66. It'd be zone focus with no meter so that would be a new experience for me as well. I'm not planning on taking a light meter backpacking, it'd defeat the purpose of trying to get the lightest camera and zone focus shouldn't be an issue since it'll be mostly landscapes anyway. I had considered just getting an XA2 which comes in at under half the weight of the Perkeo but I just love the idea of MF in the mountains. I'm told the Perkeo lenses are decent but who knows. My thinking is that the negative size will make up for the old style lenses (as you mentioned).
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May 18, 2013 06:59
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I like my GS645, but I'm not gonna lie, it's a temperamental camera and you shouldn't buy it without a warranty. If you want a folder with a multicoated planar-type lens there aren't many alternatives, however, the only ones coming to mind being the Fuji GF670 and the Plaubel Makina. Maybe something like a GS645S would suit you - the fixed-lens models are much more reliable. If you're willing to put up with a little more bulk and weight there is also the Mamiya 6, which provides about as much image quality as it's possible to get in that negative size. It would also let you use a wideangle, which could be nice in the mountains.
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May 18, 2013 15:17
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Paul MaudDib posted:I like my GS645, but I'm not gonna lie, it's a temperamental camera and you shouldn't buy it without a warranty. If you want a folder with a multicoated planar-type lens there aren't many alternatives, however, the only ones coming to mind being the Fuji GF670 and the Plaubel Makina. Maybe something like a GS645S would suit you - the fixed-lens models are much more reliable. Just gonna toss in a small note here, there's two Mamiya six versions. The one with the "six" spelled out is a folder of good quality, it's one of the better coupled rangefinder folders as it moves the film plane and thus avoids a lot of folder problems. (Front standard stability is less critical, no front cell focus) Get the Olympus D. Zuiko version, which is a competent Tessar copy. But, the six is kind of large, even for a folder. The other is the Mamiya 6 (numeral), which is a nice camera, but it is also not very cheap. Also kind of large-ish, but the lens collapses. The image quality is absolutely stunning though, and only rivaled by the later 7 model.
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May 18, 2013 15:38
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The XA should always be considered a serious contender since it's basically a reflective light meter with a very good lens for its size and a rangefinder built in.
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May 19, 2013 05:34
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Funny you mention it because I already have a Mamiya 6 and an XA. I was considering the folder because it's about half the weight of the Mam6 with a lens. Of course the XA is half the weight of a folder (1/4 the Mamiya 6) so I've been considering that too. I realize it is kind of silly to be counting the grams of each option when probably going digital would be the lightest of all. I guess I just fell in love with that sweet 6x6 of the Mamiya 6 and was looking for a lighter version. Getting my hopes up that a 60 year old folder can compare favorably to a top of the line, modern 6x6 like the Mamiya 6 is probably a fools errand. The XA seems like the most logical option but if I'm going 35mm I feel like I should take something that can use GND filters, then I'm looking at an ME-super or some other Pentax with a pancake, or possibly a Nikon FG. That weight puts me back around the Perkeo II range and I've run in circles.
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May 19, 2013 14:54
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Saint Fu posted:I realize it is kind of silly to be counting the grams of each option when probably going digital would be the lightest of all. I guess I just fell in love with that sweet 6x6 of the Mamiya 6 and was looking for a lighter version. Getting my hopes up that a 60 year old folder can compare favorably to a top of the line, modern 6x6 like the Mamiya 6 is probably a fools errand. Yeah, you aren't going to approach the image quality of the M6 with anything short of a GF670 or a Plaubel (which will run you like $1500+). I guess you could always buy it used for the trip and flip it afterwards. It is definitely a bit silly to be counting grams when you're shooting MF/LF, just hoof the extra pound or two and take what you like. If you want GND filters you pretty much need a SLR. Rollei TLRs aren't all that heavy when you get right down to it, maybe they have some accessory to let you use GND filters accurately? (paramender and a Lee filter kit?) Don't forget you can splice together shots really easily in Photoshop nowadays. You could shoot one exposure for sky and one for the ground (at same aperture/different shutter speeds) and then mask the image. Basically, HDR By Hand. Shot this freehand in Santa Barbara with my GS645, slow and wide open, and automerged it in Photoshop.  1:1 crop from the JPG: 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 16:04
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Paul MaudDib posted:If you want GND filters you pretty much need a SLR. Rollei TLRs aren't all that heavy when you get right down to it, maybe they have some accessory to let you use GND filters accurately? (paramender and a Lee filter kit?) They actually do, it works as you think it would: mount on view lens - adjust, then mount on taking lens and snap away. A bit fussy, but workable I guess. Don't have one - I've never used grads and I'm certainly not starting with it on my Rolleiflex. Expect it to be overpriced.  Speaking of landscapes and the tools required for it... There's also this: Minolta Autopole. Bay 1 mount only, though. A linked polarizing filter. I use it on my Minolta Autocord and my Rolleicord. Recommended, if you can find it cheaply. Works charmingly and the ground glass isn't as dark as I expected, it's usable indoors. 
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May 20, 2013 02:05
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The only reason I care so much about the weight is because it's a three week 200 mile hike (John Muir trail) so every ounce does count. I think I probably just need to decide if I want to focus on enjoying the hike or if I want to make photography the focus. As you said, backpacking and MF don't really go together.
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May 20, 2013 02:27
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Saint Fu posted:The only reason I care so much about the weight is because it's a three week 200 mile hike (John Muir trail) so every ounce does count. I think I probably just need to decide if I want to focus on enjoying the hike or if I want to make photography the focus. As you said, backpacking and MF don't really go together. You know I hear 4x5 view cameras are pretty lightweight. Just sayin' e. This is actually probably exactly the sort of thing the Travelwide would do great at, assuming you could pack in enough film to make it worthwhile. Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 03:31 on May 20, 2013 |
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May 20, 2013 03:29
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Just shoot a GW690 and be done with it.
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May 20, 2013 16:29
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I saw a quite cheap Graflex 2C in a store today, with a lens described as 15cm f/4.5. It's tempting, are there any things I should watch out for, or reasons to avoid it entirely?
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May 20, 2013 19:36
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nielsm posted:I saw a quite cheap Graflex 2C in a store today, with a lens described as 15cm f/4.5. It's tempting, are there any things I should watch out for, or reasons to avoid it entirely? Just make sure it is a 4x5 not 3.25x4.25.
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May 20, 2013 19:54
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Some Portra 400 
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May 20, 2013 21:22
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Foggy day, pushed Hp5+, gravestones. The fog by Falamh
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May 20, 2013 23:10
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nielsm posted:I saw a quite cheap Graflex 2C in a store today, with a lens described as 15cm f/4.5. It's tempting, are there any things I should watch out for, or reasons to avoid it entirely? Turns out it takes non-Graflok backs, and the store didn't seem to have any correct ones on hand.
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May 21, 2013 10:28
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 FH000008.jpg by Tenbux, on Flickr
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May 23, 2013 06:22
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I took the plunge and bought and RB67 Pro SD with the 90mmKL and two backs(one motorized the other standard.) Can't wait to start playing with it's ginormous self. I was also looking at the Pentax 67 but MLU bodies were getting more and more expensive, and I kind of like the rotating back, leaf shutter, and bellows focusing on the RB. Any next lens/accessories suggestions? Ferris Bueller fucked around with this message at 00:06 on May 24, 2013 |
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May 24, 2013 00:01
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Ferris Bueller posted:I took the plunge and bought and RB67 Pro SD with the 90mmKL and two backs(one motorized the other standard.) Can't wait to start playing with it's ginormous self. I was also looking at the Pentax 67 but MLU bodies were getting more and more expensive, and I kind of like the rotating back, leaf shutter, and bellows focusing on the RB. Hm, why don't you go and shoot with what you have now? That said, I used the 65mm A-L with the floating element and it turned into my main lens. Not very fast (f/4.0) but extremely sharp and a nice field of view. I'm not sure this exact version is available for the RB, but an earlier version should more than suffice. But that's me, if I were you -- I'd try to use the 90mm first and see what I like shooting, then take it from there.
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May 24, 2013 00:21
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I have a Mamiya C33 and I wanted something not square(not that this was a bad thing,) and not a TLR. The magazine thing attracted me, and now everything(digital and film both 120/135,) will be 77mm on the front end, so filters ect will be standardized across all my systems, on top of being able to use polarizers, and ND grads more effectively compared to my current MF setup. That lens you mentioned does seem to get a lot of good reviews, I'll keep my eyes out, but yeah I wanted to use the "standard" lens for a bit to see how I liked it.
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May 24, 2013 00:50
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 Shelter, Queenstown, 2013 by alkanphel, on Flickr
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May 24, 2013 01:41
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Ferris Bueller posted:I was also looking at the Pentax 67 but MLU bodies were getting more and more expensive, and I kind of like the rotating back, leaf shutter, and bellows focusing on the RB. It's tax refund season. There is a big bump in gear prices at this time every year. It seems to be particularly pronounced with P67 gear for some reason, it jumps 25-50% for a few months. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:33 on May 24, 2013 |
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May 24, 2013 02:30
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Paul MaudDib posted:It's tax refund season. There is a big bump in gear prices at this time every year. It seems to be particularly pronounced with P67 gear for some reason, it jumps 25-50% for a few months. I've been hemming and hawing on this purchase for a year or more now, and it seems like the Pentax system has gone nothing but up. It's a great system to be sure, especially it's glass as you've pointed out, but when I found my above deal for $330 all told I jumped on it. That and I really like the idea of the removable backs.
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May 24, 2013 03:01
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Of course P67 prices have gone up, because I sold mine. 
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May 24, 2013 03:20
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 ---_0229 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr  ---_0213 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr  ---_0202 by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr I'm back in black (shooting P67 again)
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May 24, 2013 21:29
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Wow. Really nice Bokeh on those.
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May 24, 2013 21:52
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What lens did you use on the first one?
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May 28, 2013 02:01
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Santa is strapped posted:What lens did you use on the first one? He's got the lens info in the tags it looks like.
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May 28, 2013 03:02
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Well snap, I guess I should have looked like 10 pixels to the right of where I was looking! That's some thin dof
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May 28, 2013 03:06
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Anyone any idea what's going on in the upper left of this photo? Independent Socialist Scotland by Tim Breeze, on Flickr It looks like a light leak but there's no sign of anything on most of the other shots on the roll. There's something similar visible on this shot too but nothing like as bad:  House by Tim Breeze, on Flickr
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May 28, 2013 16:18
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On my Yashica Mat the film gate isn't perfect and in very bright light will leak outside the picture like that, if the light source is close to an edge.
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May 28, 2013 16:37
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Like nielsm already said it's stray light bouncing around in your camera/lens. Even my late-model Rolleiflex does it; when the light hits the camera just right. Just right usually means: Slightly out of the frame, a hood usually helps, but not always. I have managed to get all kinds of weird flare with a hood on - still. From my experience, TLRs somehow seem especially prone to it. I admit I don't know why. Maybe it's the way they have to route the film around the body, or it's just a function of the knowledge about flare & flare prevention back then - with TLRs being mostly made in the 50ies and 60ies. Worst I've managed was flare so strong that it was visible on the next frame, too.
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May 29, 2013 02:05
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I've got stuff like that with my Yashica D and I've wondered if it's because of all the chrome around the lens maybe? Rolleis would also have this problem.
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May 29, 2013 03:11
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eggsovereasy posted:I've got stuff like that with my Yashica D and I've wondered if it's because of all the chrome around the lens maybe? Rolleis would also have this problem. Hm. I guess the chrome could play part of it, being very reflective and all that; thus creating tiny point light sources close to the lens. Never thought of that. Another point is that the coatings of these 50ies/60ies lenses are not very sophisticated, so once light hits the lens in an oblige angle, you're pretty much hosed. I've had this happen; even with the metal hood on. Altough sometimes I can add a lot to a picture:  (It was not foggy or anything, this light beam is pure flare; interestingly enough I saw it in the viewing lens, too. Hood was on.) How much do modern coatings help? Apparently a shitton, imagine a modern zoom, where 17 or more elements are not unheard of, with those coatings... you probably wouldn't even get an image. Similar with my Pentax 67, even without a hood; most lenses (which are multicoated) cannot be abused into flaring like this. VomitOnLino fucked around with this message at 03:30 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 03:28
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VomitOnLino posted:Hm. I guess the chrome could play part of it, being very reflective and all that; thus creating tiny point light sources close to the lens. Never thought of that. Stick a cheap enough filter onto one it'll flare up quickly enough.
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May 29, 2013 03:36
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Holistic Detective posted:Anyone any idea what's going on in the upper left of this photo? I've had something quite similar when I've been sloppy unloading exposed film and not taped it shut properly - I assume light leaked in a couple of the outer frames when the film has come loose.
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May 29, 2013 04:50
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joelcamefalling posted:I've had something quite similar when I've been sloppy unloading exposed film and not taped it shut properly - I assume light leaked in a couple of the outer frames when the film has come loose. That would be a plausible explanation, but if you look at the hard corners of the flare that are in parallel to the image boundaries, it seems quite unlikely. Edit: Why are we still spergin' about this?
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May 29, 2013 05:51
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If you examine your screen with a loupe, it will become clear that this is no ordinary light leak.
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May 29, 2013 18:43
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Thanks for the feedback, possibly a combo of improperly closed film door and strong oblique light. Just shot another roll off and it's totally fine: Lone Daisy by Tim Breeze, on Flickr  Kitty! by Tim Breeze, on Flickr  Spokes and Dandelions by Tim Breeze, on Flickr  Twilight Blossom by Tim Breeze, on Flickr Anyone had any experience spooling 120 film onto 620 reels? Just picked up an apparently functional Brownie 620 Model-C that'd be fun to try out.
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May 29, 2013 18:57
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Well, popped my 120 cherry, and waiting for my Portra 800 negs from my RB67 to come back. ~anticipation~
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May 30, 2013 18:14
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I just got a second Yashica Mat124G. For $40. Now I have a his and hers pair. 
ShotgunWillie fucked around with this message at 20:05 on May 30, 2013 |
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May 30, 2013 20:02
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