|
skipdogg posted:I'm confused as to what you're asking for. You've pretty much listed the vehicles that meet your requirements. There aren't many cars out there that hit the '4 door, AWD/4WD SUV/WAGON' requirements of your post. Thanks - so I was on the money with the RAV4/CRV/Subaru wagons? I will definitely be looking at those heavily, but I wanted to know if there were any makes/models in particular I should definitely look at that I might have missed or definitely avoid. Are Cherokees a good value vs. the Rav4? I've heard that some Jeeps are prone to parts breakage but I don't know enough about cars to know if that's true, limited to certain models, or just total horseshit. Guinness posted:This really needs to be reiterated to every "not a car guy" car owner/shopper. Just to be clear, I'm not directing this at any particular poster, just in general. Well, of course. All machines break down. I thought that it was clear implicitly in my post that I am looking for the most reliable vehicle relatively speaking. I am not going to just put 120k on it and not change the oil or something.
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 20:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 10:00 |
|
|
Kommienzuspadt posted:Are Cherokees a good value vs. the Rav4? I've heard that some Jeeps are prone to parts breakage but I don't know enough about cars to know if that's true, limited to certain models, or just total horseshit. Oh boy. XJ Cherokees are the older blocky looking Jeep SUV's you see on the road. They stopped making them in 2001 or so. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_%28XJ%29 They have a bit of a cult following since they're very versatile, and almost bulletproof. They'll hit your 4 door SUV with AWD/4WD requirement, but they won't have many creature comforts on the inside like a car built in the last 5 years will. They were basically the first Utility Vehicle and if I needed something with your requirements I would probably be looking at purchasing one.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 20:20
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:Oh boy. XJ Cherokees are the older blocky looking Jeep SUV's you see on the road. They stopped making them in 2001 or so. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_%28XJ%29 Are other Jeep models worth looking at at all? Creature comforts aren't a big deal to me.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 20:37
|
|
|
My mom recently got rear-ended in her 2005 Corolla and it's a write off. She got a $7200 dollar cheque and obviously she's looking for a replacement. I don't know dick about cars, so I thought it would be a good idea to ask you guys about some good alternatives to a Corolla to be on the lookout for. Anything in a similar price-range with four seats and good mileage.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 21:32
|
|
|
Homie S posted:That. Buy the commuter, and gently caress with in country in country.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 00:17
|
|
|
Kommienzuspadt posted:Are other Jeep models worth looking at at all? Creature comforts aren't a big deal to me. Not really. There is the Compass/Patriot, they're ugly, have poor fuel economy, drive like poo poo and the earlier model years had problems with the suspension, and for some reason they aren't even that cheap on the used market despite being a Chrysler. On the plus side, the suspension problems aren't really deal breakers and can be fixed permanently with some aftermarket parts for not a whole lot of money, and you can get them with low range gearing which makes them pretty capable off-road. You an go test drive one if you like but I doubt they are really worth the bother over a RAV4 or CRV. I'm kind of lukewarm on the Subarus, the older models have headgasket issues at higher mileage and some routine repairs like spark plugs, CV joints and driveshafts can get kind of tricky if you don't live near a shop that doesn't have experience with them, or expensive if you rely on the dealer. There's also the Mitsubishi Outlander, which is a pretty decent car but rare on the ground since they never sold too many and Mitsubishi dealers are few and far apart. The Cherokee was replaced by the Liberty(it was still called Cherokee in overseas markets), a vehicle that was broadly aimed at the same audience. Both of these are clunky, live axle vehicles that have poor fuel economy, interior space and on-road manners because they are aimed at semi-serious off-roading. It doesn't sound like the kind of thing you are looking for, but i you think the Cherokee is a good idea then the you might as well look into a Liberty too. Main problem with the Liberty was window regulators, I understand there is an aftermarket solution that will fix the problem permanently.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 02:31
|
|
|
Related question - what is a good profit margin for a dealership to make on a car? I got a RAV4 offered to me at only ~2k above the Kelleys Blue Book offer for private sale value, and ~3.8k above the trade in value. Financing is 1.9%. Does this seem vaguely reasonable? It's a really great model in very good shape with less than 30k miles on it. If there's anything I am not considering let me know - sorry if this is only slightly off topic.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 03:03
|
|
|
Kommienzuspadt posted:Related question - what is a good profit margin for a dealership to make on a car? I got a RAV4 offered to me at only ~2k above the Kelleys Blue Book offer for private sale value, and ~3.8k above the trade in value. Financing is 1.9%. Does this seem vaguely reasonable? It's a really great model in very good shape with less than 30k miles on it. If there's anything I am not considering let me know - sorry if this is only slightly off topic. Try edmunds. More realistic prices IMO. What does it say for buying it used from a dealer?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 03:11
|
|
|
Kommienzuspadt posted:Related question - what is a good profit margin for a dealership to make on a car? I got a RAV4 offered to me at only ~2k above the Kelleys Blue Book offer for private sale value, and ~3.8k above the trade in value. Financing is 1.9%. Does this seem vaguely reasonable? It's a really great model in very good shape with less than 30k miles on it. If there's anything I am not considering let me know - sorry if this is only slightly off topic. Remember that the dealer certainly didn't buy the car for private sale value and likely bought it at auction well under trade in.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 03:24
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Try edmunds. More realistic prices IMO. What does it say for buying it used from a dealer? It puts Dealer Retail at 21,049 according to edmunds and I was quoted 18,995. edit: Trade in value listed at 17.8k nm posted:Remember that the dealer certainly didn't buy the car for private sale value and likely bought it at auction well under trade in. Of course, but it is a business. I bought it from a dealer vs. private sale explicitly for the warranty service, so I knew that going in. It is just a bit over what I wanted to spend but the financing is pretty reasonable and the car was probably the best priced on the lot. The other RAV4 was 1k more and had leather seats (I don't really care about those) and a JBL sound system (Is this worth 1k? If not I won't bother). The other Rav4 also had like 8k more miles on it than the Sport I am looking at too. Kommienzuspadt fucked around with this message at 03:34 on May 22, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 03:28
|
|
|
Are newish Chrysler 300's horrible cars? My Dad is looking at viable new cars and he really likes the 300. Give a list of reasons he shouldn't buy it.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 03:33
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Are newish Chrysler 300's horrible cars? My Dad is looking at viable new cars and he really likes the 300. Give a list of reasons he shouldn't buy it. So far the initial quality for the 2011/12 models haven't been very good. Lots of electrical issues, problems with fit/finish of trim, rattles in the sunroof, that sort of thing. This has been true for pretty much all of the new Chryslers. Nothing really huge/drivetrain related or systemic though, other than issues with the Grand Cherokee's air suspension which are a bit troubling. It's kind of telling how the releases of all the upcoming new products (GC and Ram diesel, that new spaceship Cherokee, Challenger, the rest of the Dart engine/trans combos) have been pushed back repeatedly because they were "committed to quality". Maybe for 2013 they've managed to get a grip on things, and I would still buy one with a new car warranty, but he shouldn't be surprised if some problems crop up.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 04:09
|
|
|
Kommienzuspadt posted:It puts Dealer Retail at 21,049 according to edmunds and I was quoted 18,995. Are you shopping a Certified Pre Owned car? If so, take into account the CPO program is nothing but an extended warranty slapped onto the car. Sure a mechanic gives it a look over, but really most CPO programs are just used cars that fit certain age/mileage requirements with an extended warranty baked into the price. CPO cars, due to the warranty, will always cost more than their non CPO counterparts. Similarly you can buy an extended warranty for a non CPO car and get about the same coverage. As for upgrades, that's for you to decide. I spend a lot of time in my car, so I would pay an extra 1K for a premium sound system and leather seats. It would be worth it to me. If you don't care about those, it wouldn't be worth it to you.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 16:45
|
|
|
Cross posting from new car thread: Has anybody here actually driven a Leaf? One might actually work as a second car for my girlfriend and I. I think that if you drive a ton in city it might be only slightly more expensive than just getting a subcompact hatchback. I would be afraid of their long-term reliability and probably would lease one under one of the big incentive things going on. There are also used 2011 Leafs available locally, but the independent used car dealers are asking more for a used model than a new one. I think they might have gotten shafted when the MSRP on them dropped $7k for 2013. If we could do an electric car for within $1000/yr of total cost of ownership of a subcompact, we would do it. I still don't think it works out that well yet, though. I'm in Texas so there's no incentive on the charger install, we'd be doing a lease vs an outright purchase or favorable finance of a stripped subcompact.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 17:24
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:Are you shopping a Certified Pre Owned car? If so, take into account the CPO program is nothing but an extended warranty slapped onto the car. Sure a mechanic gives it a look over, but really most CPO programs are just used cars that fit certain age/mileage requirements with an extended warranty baked into the price. CPO cars, due to the warranty, will always cost more than their non CPO counterparts. Similarly you can buy an extended warranty for a non CPO car and get about the same coverage. It is a CPO. It was also the lowest priced RAV4 of similar year/miles/etc that I could find in my area (at a dealership, anyway). I do feel comfortable knowing that a mechanic has already looked over all the internal parts and made sure they are ok, too - that is something I would've had done for any used car I could've bought anyway. The leather seats really don't make a difference to me at all - actually i prefer the cloth interior as I won't feel so bad if it gets messed up - and I don't think the JBL sound system on its own is worth 1k. I am not a huge audiophile so I feel like the difference might be lost on me, but if it does become a big deal later I can probably get a better system for less and install it on my own later. Also, the Sport has better tires and alloy wheels, as well as ~8k fewer miles on it. I looked around online and feel pretty satisfied so I told the dealer to get it ready for me. Going to pick it up later this afternoon. Thanks for the advice, all!
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 17:32
|
|
|
Weinertron posted:I think that if you drive a ton in city it might be only slightly more expensive than just getting a subcompact hatchback. I think you need to be clearer on what you want. In some ways, the Leaf might be better (more comfortable? gadgets?) than a Yaris. But what threshold of betterness does it need to reach before the cost difference is worth it to you? What is the specific hatchback that you're comparing against?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 18:16
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:I think you need to be clearer on what you want. In some ways, the Leaf might be better (more comfortable? gadgets?) than a Yaris. But what threshold of betterness does it need to reach before the cost difference is worth it to you? What is the specific hatchback that you're comparing against? Our most likely hatchback candidates are the Chevy Sonic Turbo, Kia Rio, Mazda 2, or Honda Fit. I realize that all of these will drive better than the Leaf, but I would expect the Leaf to be more comfortable, have way more tech, and the idea of having an electric car with far less fuel cost per mile is appealing. I think there's no way it makes economic sense, it would just be really exciting to own an electric car. The more I thought about it though the more I'm realizing it's more money to have a worse car.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2013 19:10
|
|
|
I need help brainstorming cars to window shop at for the next month. Right now my plan is to slowly start test driving cars and lowballing dealers since I'm in no rush to buy right now. It needs to be a manual transmission. The next biggest priority is reliability. I have owned a miata for 5 years and I'd like something bigger, especially if it makes it easier to move my hands in the engine bay, so a non clown car is preferred. I would prefer rear wheel drive, although that isn't a dealbreaker. Budget is $13k So far the three that have come to mind are the Acura TL (04-08), Nissan 350z, and Ford Mustang GT (05+) Acura TL Pros - looks nice, roomy, honda reliability?? Cons - front wheel drive Nissan 350z Pros - good handling, good reviews, lots on the used market Cons - storage space Mustang Pros -  , big aftermarketCons - not good in the twisties Back it up Terry fucked around with this message at 02:58 on May 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 02:53
|
|
|
Throatwarbler posted:So far the initial quality for the 2011/12 models haven't been very good. Lots of electrical issues, problems with fit/finish of trim, rattles in the sunroof, that sort of thing. This has been true for pretty much all of the new Chryslers. Nothing really huge/drivetrain related or systemic though, other than issues with the Grand Cherokee's air suspension which are a bit troubling. Good to know. I checked one out and it feels sort of cramped behind the wheel and I'm not a big dude. He however is pretty fat so I don't see how it could be comfortable for him.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 05:06
|
|
|
compton rear end terry posted:, especially if it makes it easier to move my hands in the engine bay If you think that the Miata is a hard car to work on and has a cramped engine bay...  If you're looking for more "go", I'd aim for a 5.0 Mustang. They actually are decent in the corners, and they have more character than the 350Z. E: I'm bad at reading. Put $13k down on a 5.0 
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 13:52
|
|
|
Phone posted:If you think that the Miata is a hard car to work on and has a cramped engine bay... I think I spent more time figuring out how to contort my hands/wrenches than actually fixing things. I'm spoiled now with an old f150.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 16:04
|
|
|
compton rear end terry posted:Mustang Two points: first: modern mustangs handle decently well. Good enough that i doubt it will slow you down. second: pro fixes the con. Some fairly cheap aftermarket parts can get a car that handles as well as basically anything you can realistically drive on the street and carry people/things in. It probably won't match your miata just due to weight and dimension but its no boat. Personal anecdote but I have a friend that just sold his 350z for a 5.0 mustang because he found it more fun. I've driven both cars and the 350 is pretty drat cool but the mustang has that "hand of god" torque curve that is pretty hard to turn down.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 16:42
|
|
|
So I want a Toyota Celica and I've narrowed it down to two in my price range. http://www.highlinecarsltd.co.uk/used-cars/toyota-celica-1-8-vvti-3dr-stockport-201307502552896 2001 (possible oil issue with these) 97k miles Service History "Looks and drives superb, must be viewed .1st to see will buy" http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/ww...201309503825517 2005 110k miles 2 owners (Service history 6 main dealer stamps and 2 none franchise stamps) The first could be a real bargain but I'm not sure? Is it worth paying 1/3 more for a newer model and possibly better history but higher mileage?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 20:28
|
|
|
Hello everyone. I'm in the market to purchase a car, for the first time in my life. I've never done this before (as I've always had the luck of having a company car / company gas provided for me). Longer story shorter, I got laid off last week. So, I need a car. Let's start from the form in the OP, and we'll go from there.: Proposed Budget: Between $13,350 and 20-ish. (I'd like to keep it more like 16k or 17k. New or Used: Used if I go with option 1 below, New if I go with option 2. Body Style: 4 door or 2 door, compact is probably better, but I'd like something gas efficient and inexpensive to maintain. How will you be using the car?: I probably won't be towing more than 5 on a regular basis, and I don't tow things. I'm not sure of the length of my commute (but being that I live in Texas, it will probably be at least 20 minutes one way.) I plan on using the vehicle to get me between point A and B (probably to work, to customer sites, and back home) as economically as possible. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) I love gizmos, but only if they're reasonable. I like luxury cars, but I'm not willing to spend a ton of money on extras here. What aspects are most important to you? Cost of ownership, reliability, MPG. Probably in that order. Do I live in the US? Yup, I live in Texas. The way I see it, this has left me with two options: Option 1 - The USED option. My company car was a Ford Fusion 2011 SEL with pretty much all of the bells and whistles you can have on the inline 4 FWD engine. (Leather seats, 2 heated seats, electric seats, upgraded stereo, moon roof, etc.) I've had the car since March 2011, and I was the first owner (it was actually a fleet car, but since I picked up the car from the dealer new 2 years ago.) I've followed the maintenance schedule which was bestowed upon me by the fleet company (basically, telling me to take it in to get the oil changed every 7500 miles), and so far, the car's been okay with no major problems. (At one point, the air conditioner was acting up but seemed to fix itself. Also, when driving around after a cold start, you can hear a "bubbling brook" swishing in the car behind the right side of the dashboard. I'm not sure what that is, but after some googling, it seems to affect multiple Fusions out there. It doesn't seem like a serious problem (perhaps you all know more about that than I.) The car has some minor hail damage, and to fix the dings (there's about 6-10 dings in the car, most barely noticeable if at all), for which a local body shop gave me a quick estimate of "Less than $800 to fix" (and probably more like $500.) The car has just shy of 50,000 miles on it (49k miles and change.) The fleet company quoted me $13,350 to purchase the car--a price which isn't negotiable. This seems like a fairly reasonable price for the car. (Is it?) Option 2 - The NEW option. Of course, the other option is to get a new car. I figure that if I'm paying 13.5k for a used car, perhaps I should just spend a little more and get something that's new, will last longer and potentially could be more economical. (I don't think I want to consider any other used cars, as the one above seems to be a fairly good deal.) Many of my family members have Toyotas, and that's essentially where I'm starting my search. (I hear Honda is also good.) I want to get a car that's 100% practical, has low maintenance costs, is fuel efficient, and gets me from point A to point B. (Something with Automatic Transmission--I don't drive a stick.) I went and test drove cars at the dealership, and I like the Corolla (same thing the rest of my family has), and I like the Prius C. I figure I should also go check out Hondas as well. One quick note: I'd say there's about a 40% chance that my next job may have a company car as well, but I'll need a way to get around in the meantime (and also in the long term, if my next job doesn't have a company car.) However, if my next job did have a company car provided, housing the extra car would be a pain, and I'd most likely have to sell the car that I own and just use the company car. (Perhaps leasing would make more sense here?) Keep this in mind as we go. Now for my Questions... Questions: -The Prius C seems to get fairly good reviews on various sites. Has anyone owned one? What do they think? -Is 13,350 a fair trade in price for the 2011 Ford Fusion SEL FWD / inline 4? (The dealer told me that the trade value of the Fusion was more around 9.5k.) -If I were to get the Prius C hybrid, how much does it cost to maintain it? I understand batteries for these kind of cars will run you about 2k. Is that true? In general, compared to a gas car, do hybrid cars generally cost more or less to maintain? -I've found conflicting prices on the Internet, and there's a bunch of financial mumbo-jumbo out there. What is the best deal I could realisticly expect them to get to on the Toyota Corolla and the Prius C? I know there's different build models of each that cost progressively more, but I'd be looking at the cars that are not the most basic, but one step up. (i.e. - I think they call that Build Level 2 or 3.) How do you all squeeze the best deal? -I don't really know where to start with the "financing" stuff for these cars--basically, I'd probably take a loan if (and only if) it was 0% interest, and there was no penalty for paying it off early. Otherwise, I'd probably pay cash for the entire car up front. What's a better option and why? Thanks in advance for your help, everyone!
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2013 05:28
|
|
|
I'd say option 1, that's a pretty solid deal for a 2-year-old car.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 00:19
|
|
|
If you already have a car that's less than 5 years old and not a Jaguar/Land Rover/Audi then just keep driving it. There's no way you're going to come out ahead by changing cars.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 00:31
|
|
|
When is the best time to look for incentives for new 2013s? I'm particularly interested in the Ford Fusion, is it right when the 2014s come out? I was considered a used car, but the price difference between new and used nowadays seems pretty low.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 03:53
|
|
|
I finished grad school, I've got a pretty decent job and my parents are offering to cover the down payment on a new car, so I'm auto shopping this summer. Proposed Budget: US$25-30k. I'm in the US. New or Used: New, only. I'd be fine with used but my dad will only pay the down payment on a new car, so I might as well take advantage of that. Body Style: I'm looking at 5-door compact hatchbacks, mainly. How will you be using the car?: Relatively short commute to my day job with bi-weekly trips an hour away to my teaching job. One or two road trips a year to work sites or conferences. At most I carry two or three people. A cabin with fold-down seats would be ideal; I'd like a car that's decent at moving cargo around for its size. I never tow anything, though. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: Luxury no, gizmos yes. I don't care about things like leather seats, but an in-dash nav/entertainment system is on my list. What aspects are most important to you?: MPG and size. I'm allergic to anything larger than a fullsize sedan, and I'd like a fuel efficient car. So far, I've identified a few cars I'm interested in: the Subaru Crosstrek VX or Impreza 5-door, the Honda Fit, the Ford C-MAX Hybrid and the Kia Soul. Are there any other similar vehicles I've missed, or known issues with the ones I've liked at first glance?
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 15:43
|
|
|
If you are looking at the cmax, you probably need to look at the prius v. The cmax will drive better in every way, but the prius is probably better built and despite the epa numbers, in the read world the prius has been beating the cmax consistently. The cmax electrics were programed to game the epa tests (in a legal way), but unless you drive just like the epa tests, you won't do as well. Mazda 3 skyactiv. Apparently the new yaris isn't as hateful as the last one, so I might test drive that given the fit on your list. Maybe the Jetta wagon, though I'm a touch gunshy re:vws out of warranty. nm fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 17:52
|
|
|
My father's conditions were "no used cars" and "no Volkswagens", so the Jetta's out. I'll take a look at the Prius v, the Yaris and the 3 Skyactiv, though. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 19:05
|
|
|
Elantra GT, Focus hatch (ST?), Chevy Sonic? The Soul is meh at best. The C-Max majorly overstates its MPG if that is your deciding factor vs. a Prius. The Prius V would be stretching your budget though. The Focus ST is the best option, buy that.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 00:46
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:The Focus ST is the best option, buy that. He mentioned fuel economy.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 00:56
|
|
|
nm posted:He mentioned fuel economy. I also forgot to mention that I'm a baby who only wants to drive automatics. The standard Focus looks worth a check, though.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 00:56
|
|
|
The Chairman posted:I also forgot to mention that I'm a baby who only wants to drive automatics. My ford touch is terrible, FYI.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 01:06
|
|
|
Mazda and Subaru aren't exactly renown for their in-car electronics either. I'd say check out the Elantra GT, new Kia Forte 5 door. If you do a little wheeling and dealing, I suspect you could probably get an Audi A3 with MMI for under $30k, supposing you can convince your dad that it's definitely Not A Volkswagen.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 01:27
|
|
|
Oh hey I just remembered the Accord Crosstour is still A Thing and starts at $27k. Technically fits your criteria although the cargo carrying capacity isn't very good for how big it is.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 01:41
|
|
|
Proposed Budget: $2500 - $3500 New or Used: Used. Body Style: 4 Door compact/midsize. How will you be using the car?: Extremely mild city/suburb driving <20 miles/trip. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos: Whatever gives the most comfortable drive/experience for the money. What aspects are most important to you: Reliability / cost of wonership. Hey guys, I'm trying to do some car shopping for my retired mother/father and could use some suggestions. Currently my mother is driving a 1996 Crown Victoria that her and my father bought new when it came out. For the last 3-4 years it's been nothing but a sink of money for them. The AC doesn't work, the engine squeels/constatly squeeks while driving/at idle, heater core has failed twice now, needs new ball joints, 1 or more control arms(not sure how many there are, only that there's a problem,) the interior and exterior have seen better days, and the steering wheel apparently feels "loose" as if it has a dead zone when first moving it. KBB puts the car worth most likely around $1300 and they're sure the cost of getting most of that fixed would cost more than that. This is where the dilemma kicks in. Both my parents have recently retired and are now living on a fixed income that is quite less than what it was when they were working and are still waiting for some of their senior benefits to kick in. I'm newly moved out and living on my own so my savings are fairly small, however I have 2500 saved up right now and could save another 1000 if I had to but that's about where the budget for this car ends. Living in SoCal the weather is about to get much hotter and I really don't want my almost 70 year old mother driving around in the heat with a car that could strand her at any moment with no air conditioning. Ideally I'd like to find something for her that doesn't feel too cramped but is small enough for her to fit into compact parking spaces as the Crown Vic is a boat and this is a constant complaint of theirs. I must admit if my descriptions of what's wrong with the car is any indication I don't know all that much about cars, and know even less about what's out there as options go. My understanding is that she would like a car that doesn't feel "stiff" or "bumpy" but also doesn't want it to feel like it rocks back and forth when turning like the CV. It also gets about 17mpg in the city and I'm sure not having such a large gas bill would be a huge relief for them. This car doesn't have to last forever, maybe a year at most, but when it's done and they're in a better place financially I'd like to be able to sell the car for close to what I've got it for. Most of my research is going to be craigslist/cars.com and various internet forum classifieds and could use some pointers for what to look out for and what type of cars to gravitate to, or away from for that matter. Fake edit: That's a lot of text, thanks for reading. BaKESAL3 fucked around with this message at 04:39 on May 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 04:35
|
|
|
Hello. I was hoping goons could help recommend a new car for me: Proposed Budget: After getting a few quotes, I don't think I'm going to get what I want for under $16000 but I think I would be okay around $17k or $18k also. New or Used: New Body Style: Subcompact or compact (?) 4 door, 5 door would be okay too I guess How will you be using the car?: I live on the outskirts of the suburbs where things begin to get semi-rural. Most of my driving is a 30 minute commute away from the city through sparse suburbs (light stop-and-go) and on the highway towards the city for weekend activities. I don't haul things except the occasional large purchase and I don't usually have more than 1 other passenger (no kids, no pets). What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, cost of ownership, MPG I am a fairly young man that drives like an old man and I am not especially concerned with style. I want something reliable, practical, inexpensive, and small, but I would like something new that I can take care of and rely on. Based on that, my first thought would be to get a cheap subcompact (Accent, Mazda2, Fit etc). After looking at a few, they seem to be better suited towards city driving, which I only do every once in a while. I think it might be a dumb idea for me to get a subcompact when I can get something more suited for highway driving without paying too much more, although I wouldn't really care so much for the extra performance or features of more expensive models. My current car is a Focus, which has been adequate except it is not holding up very well despite not being that old. I would look at a Fiesta or another Focus but I am a little weary due to the issues my Ford has developed and seeing below average reliability ratings for the Fiesta and Focus. I'm kind of afraid of going back to Ford, but that is probably irrational. Any advice?
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2013 08:00
|
|
|
Medium Style posted:Hello. I was hoping goons could help recommend a new car for me: What's wrong with the Focus? You say it's not that old - how old is it? Paid off? If it is relatively new I'd tell you to fix it instead of throwing thousands at a new car and losing a bunch of money.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2013 13:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 10:00 |
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:What's wrong with the Focus? You say it's not that old - how old is it? Paid off? If it is relatively new I'd tell you to fix it instead of throwing thousands at a new car and losing a bunch of money. It's a 2005 and it's been paid off for years. I think instead of sounding like an idiot trying to describe what is wrong with it, I will follow your line of thinking and at least take it in to see what it would take to get it into better shape. I had that thought but it didn't really stick with everyone telling me to get a new car. Thanks. Medium Style fucked around with this message at 15:01 on May 28, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2013 14:58
|
|