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I have terrible luck with potholes and nails and wouldn't feel comfortable having tires that I can't get easily locally and buying 5 ZIIs is more than I want to spend at the moment. If S Drives suck maybe I'll just grab a cheap set of Kumho ASTs to hold me over until next year or something when I will have a bit more money set aside for car upgrades. I don't need ultra high performance tires I just figured if I could afford them then why not? I have Falken Ziex 512s on there now and my only complaint is that they suck in the rain (and that the wheels the PO bought are ugly as sin, heavy, and all rashed up).
8th-snype fucked around with this message at 06:05 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 06:01
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leica posted:Also ask me about what happens when you put a Mighty Vac on the wrong end of the reservoir jar Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has done this, it sucks.
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May 23, 2013 06:04
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8th-samurai posted:I have terrible luck with potholes and nails and wouldn't feel comfortable having tires that I can't get easily locally and buying 5 ZIIs is more than I want to spend at the moment. If S Drives suck maybe I'll just grab a cheap set of Kumho ASTs to hold me over until next year or something when I will have a bit more money set aside for car upgrades. I don't need ultra high performance tires I just figured if I could afford them then why not? I have Falken Ziex 512s on there now and my only complaint is that they suck in the rain (and that the wheels the PO bought are ugly as sin, heavy, and all rashed up). My NC1 had brand new Yokohama S.drives mounted on them when I bought it, I live and commute 5 days/wk in the Seattle area too and see plenty of rain and never had an issue with them so far. I'm getting pretty good overall traction in both the wet and the dry and the tires are holding up well but like destructo said they're the bargain high performance tire and nothing to write home about. Haven't autocrossed or track day'd them yet so I have no experience to report about that either, I'd imagine they'd be adequate but you'd find the limit rather fast. Edit; Tire Rack customer surveys put the S.drives at a 8/10 for wet traction and 7.9/10 for hydroplane resistance, after 5K+ miles on my set I'd say that's a pretty fair rating. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 10:16 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 09:58
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:My NC1 had brand new Yokohama S.drives mounted on them when I bought it, I live and commute 5 days/wk in the Seattle area too and see plenty of rain and never had an issue with them so far. I'm getting pretty good overall traction in both the wet and the dry and the tires are holding up well but like destructo said they're the bargain high performance tire and nothing to write home about. Haven't autocrossed or track day'd them yet so I have no experience to report about that either, I'd imagine they'd be adequate but you'd find the limit rather fast. I can get a set of 196/50/15 Kumho ASTs for like $300ish which sounds like a better buy than $500 for S Drives if they aren't really that good. The Kumhos seem to be pretty well regarded for a cheaper all season tire. Then I can worry about performance tires after I refresh the suspension, which is still on the OEM shocks and springs.
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May 23, 2013 10:19
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I never said the S.drives were bad, I just never said they were great, that's all. For your situation and needs though I'd go with the Kumhos and either drive them until it's time for new tires or you can afford to mount them on lovely winter rims and have them as backup winter wheels. I wept when I saw that the same set of ASTs that for you goes for $264 before taxes and shipping is $356 for my tire size (205/45R17). Ah well. Also reading back on your previous post I have a set of Falken Ziex mounted on my Integra and they've done pretty admirable in the rain for lovely $55 tires, I honestly don't see how the ASTs will improve upon them since those are bargain basement all-season tires just like the Ziex, food for thought. You may want to consider getting them siped to see if that improves the Falkens as well as that will ultimately be the cheapest and least painful option for you at the moment. My co-worker ran siped Ziex on the Integra for about 6-7 years before he sold the car to me and he told me he never had an issue when it rained really hard or the occasional snow.
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May 23, 2013 13:00
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The Falkens are on 14 inch rims, so using the ones I already own won't work for my new wheels. I have had terrible luck with them spinning on pretty much any wet surface, going up Phinney Ridge in the rain is painful at anything more than 1/8th throttle. Winter use isn't an issue at all I have a set of Michelin X-Ice 2s on steelies for that. I just don't want to spend the extra money unless S Drives are legitimately $200 better than all seasons, because I can just wait and get Star Specs when I have a the money set aside. I don't want to go over budget right now because in June I'm taking a long trip and I want the extra cushion in case I break anything along the way (and for my massive photo lab bill at the end of the trip).
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May 23, 2013 13:32
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Worst thing about 15" wheels are the lack of Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires.  I wouldn't waste the money on tires if your 14" wheels/tires are still "good". Doing the two sets of wheels is the way to go.
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May 23, 2013 14:17
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No my 14 wheels are some heavy rear end, no name, ugly things the PO curbed all to hell that I just can't deal with anymore. I have already ordered 15 inch Konig Feathers. I'm just trying to figure out which tires to put on them because $700 for Star Specs is not an option at the moment.
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May 23, 2013 15:16
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I haven't heard much about wet performance, but look at BFG Rivals. They're the hotness that isn't magic 195/50R15 R1Rs.
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May 23, 2013 15:52
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None of these tires seem to be available in the country  But why would anyone want more traction in the rain anyway?
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May 23, 2013 15:56
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mobby_6kl posted:None of these tires seem to be available in the country Commuting during rush hour without constant fear of death?
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May 23, 2013 16:07
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If your Miata is your only car and you have long commutes where it rains a lot, you should probably just get some good all seasons if you're that worried about it. I don't know of any summer tires that are exceptional rain tires, they are all pretty marginal really, especially once they start to wear. That being said, I have Azenis on my car, I live in Florida where it rains a lot in the summer and I haven't died yet. I just don't drive like a moron when it's raining.Poisonlizard posted:Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has done this, it sucks. Brake fluid went shooting out into the wheel well, splattering all over my face. Good thing I was wearing shades 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:22 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 17:17
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leica posted:
Glad to know I'm not the only one who's gotten a brake fluid facial
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May 23, 2013 17:26
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The stupid part was I had a delayed reaction and pumped it twice before I realized what was actually happening 
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May 23, 2013 17:53
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Worth pursuing as a track car that could be driven to events? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/3823026613.html 
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May 24, 2013 01:50
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It'll be a pain in the rear end to DD, but if you can get a plate on it, sure.
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May 24, 2013 02:49
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That's a pretty cheap SM. Do it.
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May 24, 2013 12:47
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I would not want to drive an SM any significant distance, but go for it and just budget for a tow vehicle later because eventually you will want one, especially after a long track day.
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May 24, 2013 16:11
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My '95 is spitting ATF out of one of the power steering boots when I turn the wheel, so I think some internal seal has gone. Is it worth pulling apart or should I plan on just ordering a used power or manual rack from ebay?
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May 24, 2013 16:22
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Test driving a 99 Miata with a 5 speed manual this evening. What should I look out for?
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May 28, 2013 21:40
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Having too much fun.
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May 28, 2013 21:42
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SlimManFat posted:Test driving a 99 Miata with a 5 speed manual this evening. What should I look out for? Rust holes on the chassis, near the front swaybar mounts. You might have to look behind the fender liners. My father bought a 2000 SE and didn't discover that little gem for a couple weeks.
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May 28, 2013 21:54
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Phone posted:Having too much fun. And what if that happens?
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May 28, 2013 22:02
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A wad of cash suddenly figures out how to burn a hole through your wallet. It's a strange phenomenon that occurs around Miatas But seriously check for rust. Edit; yesterday during the heavy rain earlier into the evening I decided to find the limits of my S.drives on really wet surfaces, for science of course. I've come to the conclusion that as long as you're not driving like a dong they're fine but when they hit their limit they find it drat quick. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 01:28 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 28, 2013 22:09
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I'm in San Diego for a few days and stopped by the Automotive Museum after spending the day at the zoo. Boy was I surprised to see this among all the classics! Made my day though. It's a 90 with 7k miles on it. I wanted to tug on the back of the headlamp lids to straighten them, haha. 
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May 29, 2013 04:49
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opengl128 posted:I wanted to tug on the back of the headlamp lids to straighten them, haha. Is that how you do it? One of mine is droopy, hahah. That is a sweet Miata.
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May 29, 2013 08:53
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Welp, that car was a total bomb. 6 whole Sockingtons of rust underneath and wouldnt go into 2nd or 3rd gear. Death wobble worse than my Jeep ZJ. It had new paint on it, but I'm pretty sure it was to divert your eyes from what was falling apart underneath. Not to mention he wanted 5k for it... Oh well, guess I'm back on the hunt again.
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May 29, 2013 11:48
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AF posted:Is that how you do it? One of mine is droopy, hahah. That is a sweet Miata. No kidding, I had no idea this was so easy to fix! I always just figured the PO had somehow bent something or that the lights just end up like that over time... Just walked out to my car and tweaked them back into shape, looks a million times better now.
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May 29, 2013 13:53
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 Compomotive TH-1581s 
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May 29, 2013 19:04
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^^ NioooceViper915 posted:No kidding, I had no idea this was so easy to fix! I always just figured the PO had somehow bent something or that the lights just end up like that over time... Just walked out to my car and tweaked them back into shape, looks a million times better now.   FFFFFFFFFF I wish I had known about this from day one, looks so much better
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May 29, 2013 20:00
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Haha glad I could help. Usually happens from somebody leaning on them when the hood is up (or down)
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May 29, 2013 21:20
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Anyone know the difference between the flying miata and the racing beat fly wheels? I'm in the market to spend some bucks on my little machine but have no idea which is the one to have. edit: obviously the weight is a little different. My engineer buddies say I want the one with less.... something inertia. Because "I can make a 12 pound flywheel with 4 times teh whatever of a 15 pound flywheel depending on how you carve it out" PadreScout fucked around with this message at 23:32 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 23:29
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PadreScout posted:Anyone know the difference between the flying miata and the racing beat fly wheels? I'm in the market to spend some bucks on my little machine but have no idea which is the one to have. Rotational inertia is what you're after, sadly I can't tell you the differences between the two flywheels.
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May 29, 2013 23:34
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Get the 949racing/SuperMiata kit.
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May 29, 2013 23:44
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jammyozzy posted:Rotational inertia is what you're after, sadly I can't tell you the differences between the two flywheels. Probably very little aside from weight. And while yes, you can change where the weight of a flywheel is to make two flywheels have the same mass but different rotational inertia (a theoretical flywheel with paper-thin material at the center and all of its mass out at the ring gear is going to act like it's much heavier, while a theoretical flywheel with all of its mass around the crank bolts and a near-massless ring gear will act like it's much lighter. However, it's been my experience that engineer buddies often forget that the other constraints on the design of the flywheel - material strength, compatibility with the engine / transmission / available clutches, etc - mean that ultimately, a 12# Miata flywheel from one manufacturer is going to act nearly 100% identically to a 12# Miata flywheel from another manufacturer. It's not like you're comparing a 12" flywheel to a 5.5" flywheel. Without those constraints, yes, weight is a poor indicator of how a flywheel behaves. In the real world, it's just fine.
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May 30, 2013 00:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:Probably very little aside from weight. And while yes, you can change where the weight of a flywheel is to make two flywheels have the same mass but different rotational inertia (a theoretical flywheel with paper-thin material at the center and all of its mass out at the ring gear is going to act like it's much heavier, while a theoretical flywheel with all of its mass around the crank bolts and a near-massless ring gear will act like it's much lighter. Cool, then I'll go with that one fellas recommendation of the one from 949 because it is slightly cheaper. I'm thinking step one: clutch/flywheel/stainless clutch lines Step 2: turbo setup like a voodoo 2 or something similar step 3: ... profit? I dunno, hit that poo poo with some water injection or something, who knows? I figure that way I can basically just slowly piece it up to higher power (injectors, exhaust, blah blah blah) until I pussy out and have the internals beefed up.
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May 30, 2013 00:18
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What tricks are commonly done to make a Miata trackday safe for taller drivers? It looks like at a bare minimum to survive a rollover I'll need a roll bar so tall that I won't be able to put the top up combined with a lower bucket seat that puts my rear end on the floor. Are there any rollbars out there that will protect a 6'1" driver yet still allow the top to function properly, or do I just need to shop for a hardtop? Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 15:27 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 15:17
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A 50lbs fiberglass structure will definitely protect you in a rollover. Mount seat to floor, use a decent lean back angle.
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May 31, 2013 15:19
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The hardtop would be used on top of the rollbar. I'm assuming that the hardtop has higher clearance so it would fit over the taller rollbar. I guess I could adjust my driving position to lean back a bit further, but I'd worry about my helmet constantly bouncing off the rollbar from jostling. I guess I need to look at bar specifications and start measuring. What do people 6'4" or taller do in Miatas? Drive in a full gangsta lean, or just not go anywhere near Miatas?
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May 31, 2013 15:27
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They buy e30s. Pull out the seat and sit on the floor, if you're not an inch or two under the soft top with a helmet you're pretty much beat.
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May 31, 2013 15:31
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