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Funhilde posted:Most stores these days are selling laminated fabric in cute patterns. Just use one side of that and one side of a flannel This is perfect, thank you!
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May 2, 2013 10:47
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Hallo thread again! I figured I would share a little trick I figured out. Remember those bags I made? Where I was complaining that the uv resistant heavy outdoor canvas didn't hold a crease and the polyolifin made it impossible to iron in a fold? Well turns out the trick is weight. I started first by using a rolling pin and that was OK but was a real effort. Instead I grabbed a 60lb dumbbell and oh boy did that work like a charm. Just roll it along the fold as you check ahead with your seam gauge: effortless!  I am making a set for my mother's birthday 
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May 4, 2013 12:00
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I love that fabric! Nice trick with the dumbbells. Everyone who is wondering about sewing heavy duty and buying machines should check out this video. She demonstrates just how many layers of denim the machine will sew through. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5rXnQ2ArxA
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May 4, 2013 15:28
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I love the dumbbell trick! I don't have a dumbbell, so maybe I can push an armchair over the crease. :-)
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May 4, 2013 17:00
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The fabric is a Richloom Solarium pattern. Joanne has it nearly always on sale for $10 per yard. If you have a play it again sports store or any other used sports equipment place you can pick up a 20lb plate for about $10. Seriously it works amazingly well (as you can see by the sharp edge folds on the straps). edit: the rolling pin works very well, but when you have to do 16x 44" folds it gets a bit of a pain! Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 20:55 on May 4, 2013 |
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May 4, 2013 19:53
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Alright sewing thread, I've been browsing through and slowly been filling up with sewing envy. Add into that I'm a weird body shape and finding clothes is a nightmare... Well, I figure if I can knit lace I can sew a dress or even jeans! I've been looking around on Craigslist for machines, and found this little beauty: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/art/3715292254.html. Provided it *works* it seems to be a pretty decent price. Many go for less (and I will probably try to haggle), but I'm finding a few on E-Bay for even more. I just wanted to make sure this would do what I need it to do... Basically making shirts, dresses, maybe even jeans! I'm also intrigued by quilting, though I don't have the time or space for that hobby at the moment. It seems to be quite the trooper of a machine, and the thought of wearing things that fit and are pretty is very exciting!
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May 5, 2013 18:06
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Phishi posted:Alright sewing thread, I've been browsing through and slowly been filling up with sewing envy. Add into that I'm a weird body shape and finding clothes is a nightmare... Well, I figure if I can knit lace I can sew a dress or even jeans! I've been looking around on Craigslist for machines, and found this little beauty: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/art/3715292254.html. Provided it *works* it seems to be a pretty decent price. Many go for less (and I will probably try to haggle), but I'm finding a few on E-Bay for even more. I just wanted to make sure this would do what I need it to do... Basically making shirts, dresses, maybe even jeans! I'm also intrigued by quilting, though I don't have the time or space for that hobby at the moment. Assume that any machine you buy will need at least a tuneup service and factor that into your purchase cost when considering how much you want to spend. You will also need to find or buy a manual which can run you a few bucks, unless you have someone in your life gifted with sewing machines. The advice to get a machine as cheap as possible is good advice; you don't need a machine that will last you forever until you find a machine you want to keep for forever. They're easily replaceable. T-shirts are a bitch to make because knits are a bitch when you're first learning. A straight stitch machine is not recommended for that. Straight stitch machines are workhorses, don't get me wrong, but if you want to make clothing you may need something that can zigzag.
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May 5, 2013 20:30
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NancyPants, thanks for the advice! Turns out a friend is gifting me one of hers, though it will need a tune-up. If this guy replies I might still try and haggle him down and take it anyway. I'm not thinking t-shirts, I'm more thinking fitted woven shirts, jeans and dresses (sorta 50's style A lines, again, woven fabrics). I'm not expecting to do this outta the gate, of course, but it's my aim!
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May 5, 2013 23:03
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Ask to test the machine first if you can. My husband got me a similar machine from CL and the motor didnt work. It would cost more to fix it than the price of a new (albeit cheap) machine.
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May 5, 2013 23:12
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Just stopped by Joanne and got a couple Simplicity patterns on sale for a buck each (2741 and 3971).  Also grabbed some basic supplies and enough fabric to make the shirt from 2741, a nice basic men's shirt. 100% cotton. Grass green. Very nice.
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May 5, 2013 23:13
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I have found that estate sales are excellent places to pick up workhorse older machines for cheap. I got my singer 604e for $15 at a thrift store that occasionally had estate sale booths (and spent $15 on a replacement plug but still a deal!) . Normally the estate agent will be totally fine with you giving the machine a test run with any fabric scraps around. That said the old machines look cool but do not overlook new models, like that video posted of the $60 Kenmore.
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May 6, 2013 12:19
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I had been doing all of my sewing for over a decade on a cheapo Brother machine from Walmart that had zigzag and stretch stitches. Last year, my younger brother and my mom found me a meticulously maintained Husqvarna Viking 500 at an estate sale for a few hundred bucks. Best gift, ever. New quilts for everyone!  
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May 8, 2013 02:13
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Sorry to drop in this thread and immediately ask for something, but I'm in need of some beginner help here. I have never sewn in my life and have been teaching myself the past couple weekends. I was given a vintage basic sewing machine which was bought at a yardsale, probably made during the post-war economic boom in Japan. It seems to be in good condition to me as all the surfaces, even the inner ones, are still highly polished. The only signs of damage are half a dozen spots where the needle has struck the needle plate and a missing screw on the feed regulator dial.   I located a manual online for this model (or one very similar to it, http://bypatrice.com/sewing/deluxe_manual/index.html), that guided me through the basics of how to thread, operate, equalize the thread/bobbin tension, adjust the stitch size, clean, service the machine, etc. I've sewn a few test swatches and this thing glides through anything I put in front of it. I can see that it can probably produce finer stitches than I've seen on any store-bought clothes. I've been trying to tailor button-down shirts by taking in the side seams to fit my incredibly lean build and got okay results on my first try. I know what I want to achieve as far as fit, but I'm struggling with certain aspects of technique and operation of the machine. Are there any resources out there that can help me out? I watched about half a dozen youtube videos today but they all glossed over the basic things I want to learn, or were by people who didn't know any basic sewing terminology and just confused me.
uncloudy day fucked around with this message at 03:20 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 03:18
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Talk about the Platonic ideal of no-frills vintage machines.  If the machine isn't feeding the fabric through by itself, try running it a bit with no thread or fabric in it and see if the feed dogs (the little toothy things in the middle of the needle plate, under the presser foot) are moving at all. If they're not moving, you may need to have it looked at by somebody who specializes in old-rear end sewing machines. EDIT: Does it even have feed dogs? I don't know anything about machines that old and I can't tell from your pictures. As for ending a seam, everyone kept telling me to just backstitch a bit at each end of a line of stitching to secure it and keep the couple stitches at the end from popping out. For adjusting any garment, use safety pins and pin it to where you think you want it to be, then try it on. Don't run it through the machine until you're sure you've got the fit just right. Ripping out stitching over and over is frustrating. As for me, I'm just slightly less new at this than you and I decided my first "real" project would be a button-down men's shirt. I've just started working on my shirt and have managed so far to cut out all the pieces and pin a few things up, with the help of my awesome grandma. I then consulted the instructions once I was back home and discovered that I probably should have marked a couple of things before unpinning the front pieces, so I painstakingly lined them up, re-pinned, and marked them. Doing that and stitching the pocket up properly, ready to be sewn onto the front of the shirt, has pretty much taken up my entire night. This stuff is hard you guys 
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May 19, 2013 04:23
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That's an amazing machine, awesome find! It reminds me of my 1940s Singer. Regarding your feed dogs, there are a couple things that come to mind. One is that they're gunked up with old hardened grease/oil and lint - if you're able to remember how things go back together, open that puppy up and go in there with rubbing alcohol and some q-tips (if it's bare metal, paint thinner or acetone will work really well). If it's still stuck after that, buy some spray-on penetrant (WD40 isn't one - use something like Liquid Wrench) and hit every joint you can find. Let it sit for a half hour or overnight - chances are things will have loosened considerably. My serger siezed up after sitting in a barn for a winter and after fussing and cleaning and oiling and driving myself mad, penetrant loosened it right up. Make sure to generously re-grease/oil everything afterwards! The other option is that the part of the dogs that comes into contact with the fabric either had its teeth worn off or used to be rubber, and is now hard and slippery or just plain gone. The dogs will need to be replaced, but they're cheap and relatively easy to find online so long as you have your model number. That happened on one of my machines and, while it isn't likely for rubber to be stock on one of that vintage, they were apparently The Thing back in the '70s/'80s and could've gotten swapped on. The final option I can think of is that the dogs are belt-driven (again, probably not likely on that machine), and the belt is worn or broken. Seriously though, amazing find. Post-war era machines are generally designed to be 98% user-serviceable. Mine even has the service manual written into the instruction booklet. I love it. The only problem is it will occasionally start bunching thread up on the underside of the fabric, but that just means "HEY. My bobbin housing is full of lint. Clean me out, rear end in a top hat." Anything that goes wrong with mine can be attributed to not enough cleaning, or not enough oil. Oh, and for the love of all that is holy, believe the manual when it tells you to NEVER TOUCH the bobbin tension screw. Not sure if your machine is young enough for this to be an issue, but I completely hosed over one of my machines because I thought I was smarter than the manual thought I was. I've spent hours trying to get that screw back to the right tension and nothing has worked, and I'm too cheap to take it to a shop.
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May 19, 2013 18:51
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Thanks for all the information you two. The machine has metal feed dogs that are in good condition. Clean metal with no chips or buildup. I experimented a little today and they feed the fabric just fine if I keep my speed slow. I think my problem might have been the fabric or threads snagging on different parts of the machine, and going way too fast. Interestingly, when cranking the machine by hand I can achieve stitches that are up to 1/8" long, but only about 1/16" long when using the motor on the same settings. Also, today my bobbin tension was off the charts high and I couldn't lay a good seam even with the needle tension on the highest setting. Maybe this can all be chalked up to it needing a good cleaning and lube. I'll give a good work over and report back. Thanks again for all the help!
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May 20, 2013 00:31
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uncloudy day posted:Is there a good way to terminate threads? I've just been sewing a single seam and the beginning and end points are sometimes visible on the exterior of my shirts when the seam is tugged. If your machine doesn't have a backstitch, you can also forward-stitch over the start / end of your seam to secure it. I can't tell if the lever on the right of your machine toggles front stitch / backstitch. You can also use a hand needle to pull your thread tails to the inside of your work and knot them together if you don't like the look of backstitching. This is a cleaner finish but isn't as strong. uncloudy day posted:Seriously, any other beginner tips for tailoring shirts. I have no idea what I'm doing here. This video is kind of obnoxious but it shows a really easy way to get a pretty good fit. I would pinch / pin the whole way around and then measure your two seams and adjust them to make sure that they're even before sewing so that you don't end up with the buttons to one side.
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May 20, 2013 17:08
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turing_test posted:If your machine doesn't have a backstitch, you can also forward-stitch over the start / end of your seam to secure it. I can't tell if the lever on the right of your machine toggles front stitch / backstitch. Although note that this method will result in weird sleeves if the shirt is constructed using flat-felled seams. If you wear a jacket or sweater most of the time it's not a problem and sure most people won't notice but it isn't neat.
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May 20, 2013 17:29
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Stultus Maximus posted:Although note that this method will result in weird sleeves if the shirt is constructed using flat-felled seams. If you wear a jacket or sweater most of the time it's not a problem and sure most people won't notice but it isn't neat. Do you mean that a flat felled seam just looks cleaner than a self-done plain seam? Luckily I wear my sleeves rolled up 99% of the time so it's not as noticeable, and I don't even attempt to make the cuffs look clean, but I agree. I also found out the biggest problem with trying to "tailor" a shirt like this is that you remove a substantial amount of curvature from the arm holes. The body and arms are slimmed, but you can end up with arm holes that are nearly straight lines when the shirt is lied flat. In order to reshape the arm holes, you would need material that has been cut out of the shirt, so it's the only option. This causes all sorts of problems like bunching around the armpits and less mobility in the arms. Probably nothing will ever look as good as a full custom shirt.
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May 20, 2013 21:36
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uncloudy day posted:Do you mean that a flat felled seam just looks cleaner than a self-done plain seam? Luckily I wear my sleeves rolled up 99% of the time so it's not as noticeable, and I don't even attempt to make the cuffs look clean, but I agree. Also, self-done plain seams don't look right on dress shirts - but he asked for beginner tailoring tips, so I figured that this was his best bet. I do have some suggestions for awesome shirt-making books if anyone wants to kick it up a notch.
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May 20, 2013 23:07
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uncloudy day posted:Do you mean that a flat felled seam just looks cleaner than a self-done plain seam? Luckily I wear my sleeves rolled up 99% of the time so it's not as noticeable, and I don't even attempt to make the cuffs look clean, but I agree. My nicer dress shirts have flat-felled seams which the video method doesn't use (my JC Penny shirts have plain seams with overcast edges). So you'd be tapering a plain seam into a flat-felled seam. quote:I also found out the biggest problem with trying to "tailor" a shirt like this is that you remove a substantial amount of curvature from the arm holes. The body and arms are slimmed, but you can end up with arm holes that are nearly straight lines when the shirt is lied flat. In order to reshape the arm holes, you would need material that has been cut out of the shirt, so it's the only option. This causes all sorts of problems like bunching around the armpits and less mobility in the arms. Probably nothing will ever look as good as a full custom shirt. That too.
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May 20, 2013 23:24
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uncloudy day posted:
Yeah, sounds like you should take down your bobbin tension a quarter turn or so and then bring the top tension to match it. Make sure that you've oiled the bobbin casing enough and that there's no lint or backed up thread anywhere near there. Pile of Kittens fucked around with this message at 09:53 on May 21, 2013 |
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May 21, 2013 07:57
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I had a similar problem and fiddling with the bobbin tension fixed it. Which is good, because I was ready to throw my machine out the window.
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May 21, 2013 16:07
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I want to make a bag for a friend's daughter and make like a robot design on it. Is using spray-on fabric glue with cut-out felt applique my best bet or is there a better way?
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May 23, 2013 21:46
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Stultus Maximus posted:I want to make a bag for a friend's daughter and make like a robot design on it. Is using spray-on fabric glue with cut-out felt applique my best bet or is there a better way? Use the iron-on stuff. It should be available at any fabric store, just ask them for iron-on fusible.
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May 23, 2013 22:32
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Pile of Kittens posted:Use the iron-on stuff. It should be available at any fabric store, just ask them for iron-on fusible. You mean back the design fabric with fusible interfacing?
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May 24, 2013 17:28
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Stultus Maximus posted:You mean back the design fabric with fusible interfacing? No, not interfacing. It's called something like iron-on fabric adhesive. It's double sided and comes in a roll. I got some at Michaels.
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May 24, 2013 22:16
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It's called "fusible web" and the salespeople should know what you're talking about. Stitch Witchery is the brand I've seen most often -- it'll be with the interfacing. http://craftapple.wordpress.com/2009/01/12/favorite-things-misty-fuse-stitch-witchery/
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May 24, 2013 22:26
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Arsenic Lupin posted:It's called "fusible web" and the salespeople should know what you're talking about. Stitch Witchery is the brand I've seen most often -- it'll be with the interfacing. That's the right name! My memory for specialized nouns and names is really awful recently.
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May 25, 2013 20:38
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a pattern for those Thai fisherman pants? They look perfect for lounging and easy enough to sew, but I'm not crafty enough in the sewing department to make a pattern myself.
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May 27, 2013 14:49
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http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html This link seems to have a free pattern with measurements. I have a thai fisherman skirt that I bought years ago that I love (and I never ever wear skirts), so I think when I get my machine back I'll be making a pair of these pants.
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May 27, 2013 15:13
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Eponine posted:http://www.mediatinker.com/blog/archives/008262.html Hmm, do you think I can make the curved sides without a french curve or anything?
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May 27, 2013 20:08
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I had never even heard of Thai fisherman pants before and they look comfy as poo poo. Gonna make a couple pairs soon.
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May 27, 2013 21:32
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Pile of Kittens posted:That's the right name! My memory for specialized nouns and names is really awful recently. E: You don't need a French curve to do that curve. If you aren't comfortable freehanding it, drape a piece of string around the curve until it "looks right", draw along the string, then use the piece you just cut to lay out the same curve on the other side. Or drape the string on a piece of cardboard, mark, cut, and use the cardboard as a template. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 21:42 on May 27, 2013 |
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May 27, 2013 21:37
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Of course I figure out how to do the curve on those pants and out of all the fabric I have there isn't one that's perfect for it  . Now I have to go buy more fabric.
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May 28, 2013 01:25
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Nooo, not more fabric! (casts shifty eye at stash)
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May 28, 2013 01:55
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Stultus Maximus posted:I want to make a bag for a friend's daughter and make like a robot design on it. Is using spray-on fabric glue with cut-out felt applique my best bet or is there a better way? If you haven't already been to the store, there's another product called Steam-A-Seam that has one side with a paper backing with sticky for placement, and then you iron once for the permanent bond on both sides. They carry it at most Walmart stores too, so you can get it at 3 am like I do when I run out of supplies. 
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May 30, 2013 08:20
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 Eeee, look what I made! Super cute, super simple babydoll style dress for summer! I used this lovely tutorial & finished it fairly quickly. Actually for the bodice I used the bodice from the Simplicity romper pattern I have linked below. Was kinda proud of that one. I did not include a lining though, since this was a first go round. Although now that I think about it, it kinda makes sense since this is just a cotton summer dress... Right? I really should be using cheaper fabric since I have never made clothes from scratch before, but I couldn't find anything good at the thrift shop. Instead, I got this cotton fabric from my local Joanne's   My first (successful) circle skirt!! I stupidly attempted this with a stretch fabric for my first try, which draped beautifully but I had to sew it with tissue paper in between layers of fabric AND underneath since my feed dogs couldn't catch the fabric. Unfortunately when I completed it and tried it on, it was ~5" too short.  I'll probably try again with that fabric though, now that I've got the pattern down. Stitching on the back is really wonky; I planned on making this a simple elastic waist, but I had no idea how top properly cut, measure, or sew elastic bands (I have since learned; YouTube is a wonderful resource). So I had to install the zip + add about 1" to it. Oops! It's all a learning process, right... Eventually I hope to make an American Apparel Skater Dress knockoff using that killer stretch material. I used this fabric, obv also from Joanne's. Oh, and to create the pattern I used this awesome, comprehensive, simple tutorial by SecretLifeOfaBioNerd on YT. Romper!! I meant to take a picture of the fabric as I can't find it online. It was like $3 a yard at Joanne's. It has cute little flower buds all over it. It reminds me of these sheets I had as a little girl, but this is EDGY and BLACK and DEEP OK. For this I took a stab at using my first legit pattern: Simplicity 2222. I altered the design a bit as I wanted a tube top style. Side note I attempted shorts first before any of these endeavors and learned the hard way what happens when you cut the back and front crotch length exactly the same. Camel toe ahoy! Luckily using this pattern was a good stepping stone in the right direction in that regard. Plus, POCKETSSSSS! I've sewn pockets in purses, like with zippers and such, but this was a new experience. So cool to see it all magically come together from a few scraps of weirdly-shaped fabric. Aaaand a few alterations:   I scored this amazing swing coat at Savers over the holiday weekend. It's this amazing fuzzy black material. I love it so so so so much it's probably my favorite thrift store find besides the forty bucks I found in a purse that one time. I've been IN NEED of something fuzzy in my wardrobe. $6!!!!!!!!! I had to take in the shoulders a bit and remove shoulder pads; unfortunately I don't have a before pic.   Finally got a decent pair of actual high-waisted shorts. I've bought a few pairs of levis but this is the fit I've been looking for. These are Wrangler and I cut them from a humongous pair of pants I bought at Savers for like $2. Yaaaaay gently caress paying $25-$40 for a pair of USED MOM JEANS rite???   Ironed on my kickass ridiculously happy, happy face patch. I got this at the Rose Bowl Flea Market in Pasedena. The vest is a black denim one by Drop Dead Clothing. The back "patch" is from a t-shirt I thrifted a while back. I also sewed it on a while ago, but what the hey. I love this vest. You can see the original stitching poking out from underneath the back patch. Gotta cover that.   This is a lot less interesting but I sewed on my first buttons using my machine! Thrifted this dress from Savers this weekend, LOVE the zipper detail on the back + the plaid, but the school house theme was pretty creepy (not good creepy) so changed 'em out an the dress has a whole new feel to it. Pictured are the old buttons next to the new ones, in case it's not apparent.  And last but certainly not least I need to find a special place for this little guy. Bought him at the Rose Bowl Flea Market as well. Idk I may put him on the back of some shorts?? Decisions decisions.... I have made purses before as I mentioned and being 5'0" I have been altering my clothing since I got my first machine at the tender age of 12. I'm so excited to realize my skills and potential. I really, really, reaaaaallly enjoy creating things. Thanks for letting me share with you! pack it yo fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jun 18, 2013 |
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May 30, 2013 23:03
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pack it yo posted:
 Ah, I remember learning that lesson. On the same pair of pajama pants, I made the elastic casing too low, and was never able to wear them in mixed company because they were obscene. I had used an old pair as a pattern that a)were stretchy and b)had a wide elastic band waist with no casing. Duh. I just finished a memorial quilt for my Mom's co-worker. Her son died in January, and she wanted something done with his t-shirts and soccer uniforms. I don't have a full pic yet because this monster is 84" x 84", but here are some close-ups of it and a quilted sham I made. It's the third one of these I've done in a row, and I can't wait to start using prettier fabric again. My shoulders are killing me from wrestling this bastard in and out of the throat of my machine to quilt.    eta: I'm still thinking about rounding out the corners of that sham. HodjasBitch fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 08:58
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That is the nicest looking tshirt quilt I've seen. You're very talented and what a lovely gift.
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Jun 5, 2013 11:33
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