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I'll go in and see a deep socket set with 23mm or something I need and don't have and I already have every single other size deep socket and don't want to double up.
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May 26, 2013 13:37
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I wish they sold their wobbles and extensions separate because I use 1/4" ones as banding winders at work. I cut the head tips off them, and cut a 3/4" deep slot down at the top of the extension with a dremel. Then I can wrap up banding to tighten poo poo down (think pallet straps, etc) with a 1/4" ratchet. I have a jack & sealer for normal sized jobs, but the ratchet is handy for small poo poo and weighs nothing. None of you probably have any idea what I'm talking about. I feel like this sounded like a General Failure post.
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May 26, 2013 14:12
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Well, you could always put a couple of those things in the back pocket of some jorts and take a picture. On another note, princess auto near me had their discontinued cordless impact driver on the bargain table at $73. Originally $200 comes with case, two batteries, charger. 24V, weights a ton, but takes wheel nuts off laughing.
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May 26, 2013 15:28
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revmoo posted:I really wish HF sold wrenches and sockets in individual sizes. They're on the website and I've found them in the clearance bin. I think you just have to ask for one, probably a high-theft item.
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May 26, 2013 17:14
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Sockington posted:I wish they sold their wobbles and extensions separate because I use 1/4" ones as banding winders at work. Insulation banding, I assume? I imagine it doesn't need a lot of tension to keep it in place, right?
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May 26, 2013 19:05
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Timmy Cruise posted:Insulation banding, I assume? I imagine it doesn't need a lot of tension to keep it in place, right? I think he's talking about pallet strapping.
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May 27, 2013 02:40
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Timmy Cruise posted:Insulation banding, I assume? I imagine it doesn't need a lot of tension to keep it in place, right? sharkytm posted:I think he's talking about pallet strapping. Actually, I was talking about insulation banding.  (but it's pretty much the same old concept)As for tension, I usually jack & seal the banding and then use the ratchet to roll up the tail. I use less seals than double sealing that way and still have a decently safe edge with the rolled band. The banding holds a metal jacketing securely in place, so it does need a fair bit of tension.
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May 27, 2013 06:12
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leica posted:Just wanted to pop in and say I just bought a Ryobi 1/2" drive 18v impact and it's the best tool I've bought in a long time. I picked it up right before swapping out the suspension in my Miata and I swear it cut the labor time in half. Well worth 99 bucks if you already have the batteries. I bought one with the same intention (using it for car stuff) only to end up getting a Husky air impact when I got to something REALLY stuck... The Ryobi has since been used for a ton of non car stuff, including a few hundred screws for components of my front yards fence. For the price I'm impressed with how much abuse it's taken.
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May 27, 2013 17:49
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I use my Ryobi to put on lugs. It's probably too much torque but it's not TOO MUCH.
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May 27, 2013 18:35
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Anybody have any complaints about the 12-ton HF press?
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Jun 6, 2013 23:36
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revmoo posted:I use my Ryobi to put on lugs. It's probably too much torque but it's not TOO MUCH. I use a torque stick to eliminate any worries of TOO MUCH TORX
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Jun 6, 2013 23:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Myself as well. Some times I just need that one socket that I really will use only every so often... like a 22MM socket or something of that nature. I have one of these sets I bought a looong time ago (maybe even high school). It's called the "O-Ratchet"  It's good to have around, but I don't think I'd buy it again if I didn't have it already. It can be very useful in particular situations where you have a nut on a stud or something that's too deep for a deep socket and a gear wrench isn't quite long enough to get enough torque on it. Most of the time though, a set of gear wrenches and standard ratchets with deep sockets will cover it.
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Jun 7, 2013 03:16
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I still have some of those "ratcheting" open end wrenches Craftsman made. Makes the open end of the wrench almost completely useless.
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Jun 7, 2013 04:00
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Hopefully those are better than Craftsman's regular ratcheting box-ends, which have proven to be pretty awful (gears skip and tooth count is very low whatever it is). Probably going GearWrench next time.
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Jun 7, 2013 16:51
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Craftsman gear wrenches are pretty damned awesome. The ones with the locking flex-head even more so. Don't make my mistake and buy a gearwrench with a non-locking flex head, though; loving things are infuriating to use because the head collapses with any pressure.
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Jun 7, 2013 16:58
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Phone posted:Anybody have any complaints about the 12-ton HF press? I've got the 20 ton, which is similar, just a beefier frame. Other than the arbor plates being kinda junk, it's done what I've needed it to do. The frame is good, and the bottle jack is pretty good for HF. If you snag the 20 on sale, it's only $150. I know it was on coupon recently.
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Jun 7, 2013 17:43
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The 20's on sale for 150 or 160 right now, and there's a 20% coupon. I wonder if they'll let me double it up so I could get it for like $120+tax.
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Jun 7, 2013 22:27
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If it's on sale (no coupon) you can use the 20% on top of that usually. Just check the fine print for the coupon, dunno if it applies to presses.
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Jun 7, 2013 23:22
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The worst thing about any new press is that you will need all kinds of weird sockets and metal shims and scraps to actually get anything done.
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Jun 8, 2013 02:49
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grover posted:Craftsman gear wrenches are pretty damned awesome. The ones with the locking flex-head even more so. Don't make my mistake and buy a gearwrench with a non-locking flex head, though; loving things are infuriating to use because the head collapses with any pressure. much like your house!
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Jun 8, 2013 04:45
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malkman posted:much like your house! I'm all for a good Groverhaus burn, but this poo poo is terrible.
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Jun 8, 2013 14:32
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PBCrunch posted:The worst thing about any new press is that you will need all kinds of weird sockets and metal shims and scraps to actually get anything done. Old bearing cones and cups, brake rotors, and box tubing cutoffs/drops work amazingly as press accessories. Need to press a bearing cone on but don't want to risk putting pressure on the cage, or screwing up the bearing shoulder on the other end of the diff carrier it's going on? Use the old bearing cone you took off after stripping the cage and rollers off it, and put the whole thing on the hat of a brake rotor with the bearing shoulder sticking through the center hole. Oh, and do yourself a favor and put the thing you're pressing it onto in the beer fridge for an hour and heat the bearing up in a ziploc in a pot of boiling water. It might well just drop on.
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Jun 8, 2013 17:52
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$130 - 20% + some gloves = $115 after tax.  I need to swing by Home Depot for a trailer hitch (apparently it's the perfect size to press in/out bearings) and a 29mm socket for the axle nut. I figure I'm going to get way more than one use out of the press, so it makes sense just to buy one. It's less of a hassle than taking poo poo to a shop as well.
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Jun 8, 2013 19:15
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I'm finally going to buy my first cordless drill and my budget is around 100 bucks. Is there any appreciable difference other than weight between a dewalt with a NiCad battery and a craftsman with a lithium ion? I've heard dewalt is better, but in my price range is the added weight worth it?
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Jun 9, 2013 04:14
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NiCad is to Lithium Ion as falling is to flying. One lasts a lot longer and also sucks less.
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Jun 9, 2013 04:55
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The Third Man posted:I'm finally going to buy my first cordless drill and my budget is around 100 bucks. Is there any appreciable difference other than weight between a dewalt with a NiCad battery and a craftsman with a lithium ion? I've heard dewalt is better, but in my price range is the added weight worth it? I kinda like the Ryobi with their One battery system deal. Depending on how heavy duty you're going, Home Depot has a drill and circular saw set for $99 bux. I actually bought the Ryobi cordless impact driver with ~200 ft lbs of torque and it knocked out everything except spring compression on my car. I was impressed. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-ONE-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Starter-Kit-2-Tool-P825/203466900#.UbQlePm1G88
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Jun 9, 2013 07:52
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If you buy cordless tools in this day and age, register the drat things (and the batteries) the second you get them (even if they don't say so on the loving box, they all require them to be registered to honor the warranty past store return period) and plan on sending everything back if anything dies. It's ridiculous and pisses me off. Oh, and keep your receipts, I hope they aren't on thermal paper.
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Jun 9, 2013 13:43
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kastein posted:If you buy cordless tools in this day and age, register the drat things (and the batteries) the second you get them (even if they don't say so on the loving box, they all require them to be registered to honor the warranty past store return period) and plan on sending everything back if anything dies. It's ridiculous and pisses me off. Oh, and keep your receipts, I hope they aren't on thermal paper. This. Also, don't buy them on ebay. They generally aren't "registered dealers." I had a brand new Makita battery die on me after like 4 cycles and both the seller on ebay and the company told me to get hosed.
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Jun 9, 2013 17:34
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kastein posted:If you buy cordless tools in this day and age, register the drat things (and the batteries) the second you get them (even if they don't say so on the loving box, they all require them to be registered to honor the warranty past store return period) and plan on sending everything back if anything dies. It's ridiculous and pisses me off. Oh, and keep your receipts, I hope they aren't on thermal paper. Putting packing tape over lovely receipts might help, I've seen it suggested but haven't got anything expensive enough to bother with since I read it.
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Jun 10, 2013 03:47
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stevobob posted:Putting packing tape over lovely receipts might help, I've seen it suggested but haven't got anything expensive enough to bother with since I read it. It usually works but the best thing to do is to scan them.
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Jun 10, 2013 06:22
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stevobob posted:Putting packing tape over lovely receipts might help, I've seen it suggested but haven't got anything expensive enough to bother with since I read it. For a while. But the biggest problem with lovely receipts is that they are on thermal paper, so if they get too hot they will wash out. Putting packing tape on them at lest keeps them for turning black from oxidization.
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Jun 10, 2013 16:23
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gently caress me. Owning flare wrenches are the god drat bee's knees. It was a million loving times easier to change a fuel filter than using regular wrenches. Every tool box needs both a set of standard and metric.
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Jun 12, 2013 15:08
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But heaven help you if you buy them from Harbor Freight. Flare wrenches are the worst thing I ever got from them, the heads flexed open under as little as 2 or 3 foot-pounds of pressure. I didn't realize that that was the obvious failure mode, and really needed flare wrenches (for a brake repair on a car I needed to drive for work, that night) at the time. I said "gently caress, I'm poor, how bad could they be?" The answer, of course, was 
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Jun 12, 2013 20:09
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BrokenKnucklez posted:gently caress me. Owning flare wrenches are the god drat bee's knees.
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Jun 12, 2013 23:07
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Anyone have any direct experience with the fractional HF digital caliper? The display is different so I assume the electronics are too, anyone know if there are any differences (in decimal mode) from the normal one? The box seems to think they have the same specs.
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Jun 13, 2013 01:06
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grover posted:Last time I needed one, I just took a dremel to a closed box wrench I didn't care about. Worked like a charm. Do yourself a favor and never use that "flare wrench" you made on brake lines. There is a reason flare wrenches/line wrenches are a thing, it's because they cover 5 corners of the hexagon, have enough thickness/strength to not spread under torque, and still have an open slot to get the drat thing back off the line after. Closed end wrenches on the other hand are thin so you can work in tight cramped spaces... and will spread open if you try to use them on a tight fitting. And round all the corners off and make you very unhappy.
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Jun 13, 2013 03:59
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Who makes a decent set of flare wrenches for cheap? Craftsman? I might be changing some fuel filters, brake lines, etc. in the future and it would be handy to have.
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Jun 13, 2013 04:17
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I have a Craftsman set. They did the job well enough even having to reef on a few fittings. Maybe they flexed a little, but nothing slipped so all's good. Set was $30 for 5 wrenches (10 sizes). The only complaint I have is that they're chromed. My Kobalt ones are regular drop forged unfinished and look very tough. They were dirt cheap to boot but I can find them in stores any more.
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Jun 13, 2013 04:53
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Alright, so I'm in the market for a cordless impact wrench. I don't have any other cordless tools at this point, so I'm not limited to a specific brand, though I'd like it if the brand had a good reputation across a variety of cordless stuff. I'm open to drill/driver combos, as I don't actually own a drill. Primary use will be wheels/random stuck bolts that I can get the driver on to. I'm in Canada, but I live close enough to the border to go pick stuff up. No harbor freight nearby though unfortunately. What should I be looking at?
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Jun 16, 2013 01:43
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kastein posted:Do yourself a favor and never use that "flare wrench" you made on brake lines. Yeah, I made one out of a 16mm because I had a 15mm flare wrench and a 17mm. Didn't work worth a poo poo. Once I compromised the box end of the wrench I was surprised at a) how flexible the steel was and b) how stupid I was for doing that
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Jun 16, 2013 13:53
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