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some texas redneck posted:As for specs - they're long removed from Phoenix Gold's website (the Tantrum line is from.. 2001 or so, I think?), but I bet their tech support still has that info. Yeah I've sent an email to them but they didn't respond, making me think they wont get back to me before monday.
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Jun 8, 2013 01:03
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I'm looking for a new head unit for out 1998 Outback (Gen2). It currently has a Kenwood KDC-133 which I'm guessing is not original (seems to be 50w x4, the car appears to have 4 normal speakers in the doors and 2 tweeters up by the wing mirrors) There's nothing wrong with the current unit except it has no aux input. We have an iPhone 4, a 3GS and a iPad(3) between us. I'd be happy spending up to maybe $150 I'd prefer not to use a FM thing, they sound like poo poo. I'd prefer something that has a usb port (I guess you can charge this way?) I'd like to be able to use the cigarette lighter to charge my iPad and the head unit to charge my phone on long trips. I guess being able to use a USB stick/SD card would be nice as well. I'm probably not fussed about bluetooth but I guess if it's easy to use/can be set up as a handsfree system I'd be interested in doing so (is this even a thing?) Ultimately I just want all of the features for none of the money. Is there anything out there that might do the trick? I start looking at shops online and get very lost very quickly.
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Jun 9, 2013 12:34
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Does anyone know of a Ford OEM head unit that will make a good replacement for an 02 Thunderbird? It's a double din 6 disk changer unit. It's for a family member that just wants to replace their broken unit with an OEM style unit. You'd buy an 02 Thunderbird head unit. If that's all they're looking for, just grab one off of eBay or a junkyard, should be pretty cheap.
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Jun 10, 2013 23:03
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slothrop posted:I'm looking for a new head unit for out 1998 Outback (Gen2). It currently has a Kenwood KDC-133 which I'm guessing is not original (seems to be 50w x4, the car appears to have 4 normal speakers in the doors and 2 tweeters up by the wing mirrors) RE: charging, they do make dual USB port charging adapters for your cigarette lighter, something to keep in mind there. Take a look at crutchfield.com, there should be a ton of models that would fit your needs. I'd recommend staying away from the bottom tier brands, go with something like Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, etc. You're mainly going to be looking for one that has a design that you like, all of the major brands are going to have units that are feature comparable.
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Jun 10, 2013 23:56
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I ended up buying a factory refurbished Pioner DEH-80PRS for my Volvo. It arrived today and I installed it; it kicks rear end, despite the fact that my front passenger door speaker is apparently completely busted. Looks like I will be getting a nice set of component speakers after all!
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Jun 11, 2013 04:45
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I have an older, but still awesome Eclipse Titanium 12" DVC subwoofer. The original owner thought that the gain level was a bass boost / volume control and had it in an enclosure far too small and tore part of the surround. It's been repaired (and drat well to be honest) by my old roommate but he can't remember what he used on it. I had it in a far far too small of a box but it was doing okay with my low wattage amp and not being dumb. My cousin borrowed it and tore the repair, what could be used to fix the damage? Or should I look into getting a replacement surround??? Also any suggestions on a premade non custom built enclosure anywhere? Thanks everyone! Edit: I have plenty of space and I prefer sealed, but a well designed vented enclosure is fine. I have a 2001 Olds Bravada if that helps. At the moment I have a giant box with super old MTX 15"s. Deep but fast! The way my ex liked it. Uh....tmi, sorry everyone. Unclean fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jun 11, 2013 |
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Jun 11, 2013 07:33
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Unclean posted:My cousin borrowed it and tore the repair, what could be used to fix the damage? Get someone to build you this. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Jun 11, 2013 |
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Jun 11, 2013 07:49
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slothrop posted:I'd be happy spending up to maybe $150 Basically any $120-150 Pioneer head unit will have everything you want. Probably Kenwood too, I'm just personally more familiar with Pioneer. That'll include decent Bluetooth streaming (A2DP) and calling. I wasn't terribly impressed with the calling ability of my old Pioneer (DEH-6400BT) - people always said I sounded really distant/crackly, though I could hear them just fine. But for audio streaming it was fantastic - and turning on only A2DP in Android is easy (no idea on iOS, I'd imagine it'd be similar). That model's been replaced by the DEH-X6500BT, which looks to be a nicer head unit overall. Currently $119 on Amazon. It has front USB, 3.5mm aux, and full Bluetooth. My only gripe is Pioneer usually doesn't have a dimmer wire on their lower end stuff.
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Jun 11, 2013 08:09
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Awesome, thanks very much for the replies, that's given me a bit more to go on when making a decision.
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Jun 11, 2013 11:28
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Lowclock posted:This stuff should be available at most auto parts sections. Hey thanks so freaking much! I'll order the sealant today and at work there's a patient ran woodshop that does projects at cost. I'll talk to the guy and see how much it will run. If anyone in midwest Kansas (Larned / Great Bend area) ever needs any cheap woodworking done shoot me a PM, they do really good work. Edit: I vaguely recall awhile back that the Eclipse sounds awesome in an 8 cu. ft. or so box. The 1.75 will work fine then since its vented? Actually I think that large of a box was for a pair and they were sealed. Just curious!!! Unclean fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 11, 2013 |
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Jun 11, 2013 18:37
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I've got an E30 vert with a dead head unit. I'd like to have something that looks as unassuming as possible to avoid anyone ruining the top to get to it. Ideally it'd look as close to stock as possible, with little/no chrome and red/orange colors. I'm looking for at least one of the following: iPhone/iPod compatible Aux in Bluetooth This deck will be driving the stock 25+year old speakers, and I'm not particularly concerned about getting exceptional audio clarity, I just want something that can play pandora or whatever from my phone loud enough to hear with the top down. What should I get?
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Jun 11, 2013 18:58
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Unclean posted:Edit: I vaguely recall awhile back that the Eclipse sounds awesome in an 8 cu. ft. or so box. The 1.75 will work fine then since its vented? Actually I think that large of a box was for a pair and they were sealed. Just curious!!!
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Jun 11, 2013 22:56
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Uhg. These Phoenix Gold Titaniums are giving me issues trying to design a box. Part of it is that I'm using winisd to work with the numbers. Basically I'm stuck at dimensions around 2cu ft usable volume. At that space with 3 12's, a ported box isn't worth the trouble. The predicted FR is dropping at 12db/octave just like a sealed, leaving me to just go with a sealed enclosure and skip the worry or port noise etc. So, with a sealed can I drop the gains down and then boost the 30-40hz range to get it flat. I know the amp has a bass boost setting. I wonder if I can run that booster, drop the gain to get the 50 -80hz down some, and then use the factory GM deck to fine tune. Do any of you use REW to tune the frequency response ?
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Jun 12, 2013 00:29
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Stop worrying about what modeling programs say. They're not even remotely close to accurate for cars. Build a sealed box as big as you can and try varying amounts of polyfill stuffing and knob twiddling until you like the way it sounds. Your ears are not an RTA.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:23
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So Ive got a situation. You're probably going to think my situation is ghetto but that's ok coz I'm a tight rear end mother fucker... My current setup is some Sony 6" running off a fusion 80Wx2 which is fine. I high pass filter it. I have an alpine 12" running off a pioneer monoblock. I don't have a head unit, I just use a long headphone cable and splitter off my iPod So I want more and/or better bass. I might replace the sub with a DVC so I can run the monoblock at 2ohm and get 360w out of it. My problems are that I feel like I want more volume, but only on some tunes. I guess that's the problem with the iPod method, feels like it needs a pre amp for some songs And the bass... I like deep bass. But most subs have SPL/freq graphs with poor SPL at ~40hz and doesn't get up to "flat" until around ~70hz.. I don't want it real loud and banging necessarily. perhaps tuning the LPF is the key? I generally find the higher bass frequencies too loud or if you lower the LPF it sounds better for bass music but band music lacks.. I don't wanna get out of the car, open the boot and fiddle with the amp I was looking at pioneer 12" DVC but yeah the reviews seem positive but some moron saying a sub hits hard doesn't make for a good tune, ya know? Or maybe it's gonna be fine is there a decent equaliser for cars that is dirt cheap? or not? also would a head unit really benefit me coz is still probably run the iPod. I guess the extra gain and small eq flexibilt could be a bonus ps it's a 94 ford laser sedan
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Jun 12, 2013 04:54
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You do realize even the earliest iPods have a built-in EQ, right? Older ones are stuck with presets, newer ones usually have a bit more configurability. But yes, you'd get a lot more gain using a preamp or head unit, and it'd probably be a lot cleaner sounding too. Your iPod's headphone output is putting out something in the millivolt range with some hilarious distortion, while amps are usually expecting 1-5 volts.
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Jun 12, 2013 08:33
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On Crutchfield.com they have a configurator that lists the headunits compatible with your car. How accurate is that? Shouldn't your car be in theory be able to take any single/double DIN head unit?
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Jun 12, 2013 10:00
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some texas redneck posted:You do realize even the earliest iPods have a built-in EQ, right? Older ones are stuck with presets, newer ones usually have a bit more configurability. Yeah, I have a "video ipod", it has an EQ but what I really need is a lot of control around the bass zone and I think it only has like to controls under 200hz? Still, good point quote:But yes, you'd get a lot more gain using a preamp or head unit, and it'd probably be a lot cleaner sounding too. Your iPod's headphone output is putting out something in the millivolt range with some hilarious distortion, while amps are usually expecting 1-5 volts. That is a very good point
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Jun 12, 2013 21:19
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b0nes posted:On Crutchfield.com they have a configurator that lists the headunits compatible with your car. How accurate is that? Shouldn't your car be in theory be able to take any single/double DIN head unit? In theory. Some manufacturers like to do stupid poo poo that make aftermarket units difficult to fit though.
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Jun 12, 2013 23:45
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b0nes posted:On Crutchfield.com they have a configurator that lists the headunits compatible with your car. How accurate is that? Shouldn't your car be in theory be able to take any single/double DIN head unit? Today the answer's generally yes (except where integration's gotten completely out of hand), but you can still run into depth issues with some cars and some head units.
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Jun 13, 2013 00:42
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2 Questions unrelated: Can someone help me with the ohms math again for these drivers ? Each driver is dual voicecoil, 8 ohms for each coil. There are 3. Amp is an Alpine V-power 1000 watt class D monoblock which is advertised at 1000wx1 rms @ 2ohms. What are my options for impedance, and if I'm below 2 ohms but above 1 ohm, can I just turn the gain down some to relieve some stress on the amp ? Question 2: These Parrot Asteroid Double-Din decks, are there any real world impressions of these ? Thinking of replacing my factory chrysler mygig deck with one of these, as the screen is kind of hosed on the oem deck. Is there a way to get sat radio onto this ?
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Jun 14, 2013 02:49
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jonathan posted:2 Questions unrelated: Unless they've changed, those Parrot decks run ancient gutted versions of Android with terrible hardware and limited functionality. Pretty lovely.
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Jun 14, 2013 04:29
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jonathan posted:2 Questions unrelated: Here you go, you won't be below 2 ohms:  e: woops, you can be at 1.33, I'm dum.
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Jun 14, 2013 04:29
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 Where did you get that picture from? The last Parallel/Series part is completely wrong.E: VVVV Weird. The rest is close enough, but the bottom one should be 1.5, 3, 6, and 12, respectively. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 05:05
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Lowclock posted:
Google image search. http://www.klausaudio.com/subwoofer-box-articles/triple-dvc-subwoofer-wiring-diagram.php Turns out it's kind of hard to find diagrams for 3 speakers at 8 ohms.
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Jun 14, 2013 05:19
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I'm wondering if I can put an inductive charging pad in one of my DIN pockets. Googling yields talk of doing this but no hand-holding instructions, which I probably need. Anyone have a link handy?
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Jun 14, 2013 17:28
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I just bought a 2013 honda accord coupe v6 with a 6 speed manual. My previous vehicle was a 2000 mitsubishi montero sport ls 3.0l v6. I had done pretty major work to the audio on it replacing the head unit, replacing the full range speakers in the back, the componant set in the front as well as adding a 1500 watt rockford fosgate amp and 2 ohm 15" t2 power series sub. Anyone who has delt with recent accords knows that they have integrated everything into the stereo. It sounds nice for stock but is seriously below what I had before. After some research it seems like my best bet is going to be a factory sound reprocesser. It would give me speaker level inputs for the stock speakers and an rca for the sub/amp. As well as freedom to add a 4 channel amp in the future for aftermarket speakers. Does any have any experience with these and any suggestions for models/buying? I was looking at the jl audio cleansweep but am open for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
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Jun 15, 2013 23:28
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Okay. So the AppRadio 3 is out and I WANT IT BADLY. However, I am not too big into phones and as such only have a Samsung Galaxy S Blaze running 4.0.4. What do I need to buy and/or download to use my phone with AR3?
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Jun 16, 2013 21:14
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Crossposting from the Jeep thread, in case this is a better place for it: SBJ posted:So I'm pretty tired of having to make mix-CD's when I drive my 2003 TJ due to the old stock stereo set. I was going to get it replaced and then buy a GPS but then I started seeing these DVD units and I quite like the look of the stereo & the GPS being in the same compartment. I'd love to get something that accepts AUX connections so I can wire up my phone.
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Jun 17, 2013 13:02
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I have just fitted a new stereo with a USB input (Pioneer DEH-4500BT RDS). It's got all the features I want in a stereo. I had a quick skim of the manual, and it says not to leave USB storage in the front when it's not on. I just bought an eminently losable tiny Sandisk USB drive that I was hoping to leave in place. Does anyone have any idea why they might give this advice, or whether I am ok to ignore it? I would guess it's not a disaster to ignore it, as most people won't read the manual. I was only reading it because the interface is not exactly intuitive and I could not figure out how to navigate the folder list.
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Jun 17, 2013 13:46
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SBJ posted:Crossposting from the Jeep thread, in case this is a better place for it: Those generic head units are by and large terrible. That said, any single-DIN head unit should fit if it's anything like the US TJ, you just need the appropriate mounting kit and harness. This writeup includes replacing the head unit and speakers on a US market TJ.
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Jun 17, 2013 14:03
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I'm looking to replace the speakers in my 2013 WRX. I have the factory stereo, w/o navigation. I am not looking to replace the stock stereo just yet. I have managed to get into the hidden menus and disable loudness and turn on passthrough mode for the EQ so the stock HU should not be altering the sound outside of its own component limits. My listening tastes are all over the place so I would like a nice balanced sound. I am looking at these two sets for the front components: Focal Rainbow I'm looking for something that will have a smooth and not so piercing high frequency response and decent bass/midrange. I have a kid so I'm not going to be giving up trunk space anytime soon for a sub. I don't need it to be really bassy, but I would at least like to hear it. Initially I am planning to just run it off the stock head unit for the time being, I know that is going to kill their potential, but they will still sound better than stock. I'm planning to add an amp for them later, but I'm debating how I would keep the stock HU in that equation. Eventually I'm going to have to kick it to the curb and get an aftermarket that I can integrate my steering wheel controls into. I just don't want to go down that rabbit hole yet. I'm buying diapers first. Any thoughts on those options? Recommendations for other sets in the price range or below? No matter what, I'm going to have to have adapters to fit them in the door so that is a cost I can't get around. I would like to swap the rears out with 6.5" coaxials at some point as well. Also, its a hatchback.
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Jun 17, 2013 15:40
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Aflicted posted:I'm looking to replace the speakers in my 2013 WRX. I have the factory stereo, w/o navigation. I am not looking to replace the stock stereo just yet. I have managed to get into the hidden menus and disable loudness and turn on passthrough mode for the EQ so the stock HU should not be altering the sound outside of its own component limits. My listening tastes are all over the place so I would like a nice balanced sound. I am looking at these two sets for the front components: midbass is going to be highly dependent on your install and deadening of the doors. But for what its worth I am happy with my focal's I ended up buying. I was originally going to buy some higher end rainbow comps but the were not actually in stock and not available. I got a call the next day from woofersetc trying to talk me into buying something else they had in stock that was not what I was looking for at all. Since you care enough to spend the money for mid level comps then you will want at least a small sub once you move off of factory deck power, they say they will get down to 50-60hz but really the won't do much under 120hz and fall rapidly from there to essentially nothing below 80hz. As far as suggestions go I bought a set of these Morel Maximo comps and some matching coaxials for the crown vic and am half way done installing them now. I was originally going to run them of the HU bu ended up getting a 5 channel amp and some 8in subs too. I'm not sure it is really a fair comparison too the but I can let you know how the compare to krx3's in the fiat.
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Jun 17, 2013 16:23
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I will have to check those out as well. I have never heard of them. I know I'll want a sub eventually. I've had one in my previous cars, but I just don't want to give up the cargo space for it. I think I'll find myself constantly disconnecting it to put it in the garage anytime my son and I need to go somewhere in my car. Albeit, we travel as a family usually and then we take my wife's Outback. I'm sure eventually I'll wind up going with a 5 channel Alpine and putting a small sealed 10" somewhere back there. I also need to find out the mounting sizes for the factory tweeter locations. I have seen a write up where someone installed the Rainbow set and they fit perfectly. I can always look at the dimensional specs on those to get an idea I suppose. I saw that the first generation appradio is on sale on crutchfield for $139, but it doesn't support Android devices and I've tossed all my iPhones and iPods out. Looks like the AppRadio 2 supports Android with an adapter, and now I see someone mentioning the AppRadio 3 is out. I'll be looking into these since I can't remember the last time I used a CD. I'll need to look into the steering wheel control integration as well. Edit: What kind of sound dampening is recommended? Is dynamat the recommended thing? Is there some sort of filler material that can be used? Baffles to mount the speakers in? Aflicted fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Jun 18, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 18:00
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Hi! So okay, i just bought a 97 Volvo 850 wagon, and its stereo sucks. A lot. So to remedy this problem, Im throwing money at it! Heres what Im going with so far. Im mostly having problems deciding on an amp and the sub. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX80BT/JVC-KD-X80BT.html Thoughts? Its clean, simple and has bluetooth, plus some nice preouts. followed by http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_091130A1S/Focal-Access-130A1-SG.html?cc=07&tp=106 (Focals scratch and dent for mad cheap.. Ive heard good things about them. Yes/No?) followed by An amp of some sort I assume!! Should I use one amp to power the comps and the sub, or go separate amps? For simplicity Id like to use a single amp.. suggestions? I think Id only need a 4 channel running in 3 channel mode, I assume running the rear door speakers off the deck would be just fine. followed by http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-462&scqty=1 That was recommended by tyroneshoes from a long ago car audio thread. They seem to have good reviews from people on there, too. Id like to try it out, any reason I shouldnt? Also, PE has a pretty nice home sub box custom designed for it, would it be weird to use that in a car? Or should I just use the cheap prefab box? Amp budget is midrange. My musical stylings lean to the electronic side of things, with a healthy mix of other stuff with guitars and whatever. I like balance  edit: would this work well with the dayton? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTO751E/JBL-GTO-751EZ.html?tp=35834 and this for the comps? would all this crap work well together? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105AX3202/JVC-KS-AX3202.html hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 02:58
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So my amp is seemingly drawing too much current for my car. headlights dipping but then got to the stage where it was cutting out when I was slowing down [as the revs drop] and then next time tried to start the car the battery was almost flat.. options I see : capacitor, although I hear this is a poor solution.. upgrade alternator? upgrade cable from alternator?
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Jun 20, 2013 02:32
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Unless your cable is woefully undersized (like half a volt drop from alternator to battery at full draw) upping that won't fix your issue, ditto the cap. Bigger alt would be the way to go, and it might not be a bad idea to stick in a second battery to run your amp.
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Jun 20, 2013 02:36
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Does anyone know how I can trouble shoot a 50 year old delco AM radio? Wiring seems easy but I can't get a signal at all. Speakers emit static so I know the radio "works"
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Jun 20, 2013 02:40
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echinopsis posted:So my amp is seemingly drawing too much current for my car. headlights dipping but then got to the stage where it was cutting out when I was slowing down [as the revs drop] and then next time tried to start the car the battery was almost flat.. I'd guess that you have a battery and/or charging problem, unless you have a really old car, the electrical system should be up to handling a lot of draw. How much amplifier do you have? What is the amperage of your fuses to your amplifiers?
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Jun 20, 2013 04:35
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The Locator posted:I'd guess that you have a battery and/or charging problem, unless you have a really old car, the electrical system should be up to handling a lot of draw. I think without checking its 25amp and there are two of them on the amp it's a 700w max pioneer monoblock. am very surprised it was enough to cause this issue
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Jun 20, 2013 07:30
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