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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:A and Z are strong. X-Plan is useful for relatively high demand vehicles (ST, etc), but yes, you should be able to achieve X-Plan levels without too much work. I qualify for X-plan. If invoice for a base 2013 Fusion is 20,143, plugging it into the x-plan formula gives me 20,338. Not including Ford incentives, what do you recommend as a good starting price? $18,500? Do I have leverage at this time of year now that 2014 are almost out?
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Jun 11, 2013 00:30
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CatchrNdRy posted:I qualify for X-plan. If invoice for a base 2013 Fusion is 20,143, plugging it into the x-plan formula gives me 20,338. Just start emailing internet sales managers and ask them whats their best offer. Then pit them against each other.
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Jun 11, 2013 02:42
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Bovril Delight posted:Just start emailing internet sales managers and ask them whats their best offer. Then pit them against each other. Do you think tossing 18k would be acceptable for a base 2013 Fusion or would the managers laugh me away?
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Jun 12, 2013 04:19
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CatchrNdRy posted:Do you think tossing 18k would be acceptable for a base 2013 Fusion or would the managers laugh me away? Dont bring up a price to start. Make them give you a figure.
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Jun 12, 2013 05:05
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Bovril Delight posted:Dont bring up a price to start. Make them give you a figure. Should I mention the x-plan thing? won't they just say "our price is on the website idiot, internet special"
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Jun 12, 2013 06:27
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Unless you're planning to special order the vehicle or what you're after is a hot commodity that you're not likely to get a good deal for then, no, don't mention it. Bringing it up is basically telling them right off the bat you'll accept the X-plan price if they won't give you a lower one, at that point why offer anything lower?
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Jun 12, 2013 06:34
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Elem7 posted:Unless you're planning to special order the vehicle or what you're after is a hot commodity that you're not likely to get a good deal for then, no, don't mention it. I'm not sure how to approach this, so I just email the manager for the specific Fusion and ask them to make me an offer that is lower than the one on the website? I'm sorta slow can you give me an example of what to write?
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Jun 12, 2013 06:52
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I was doing a search on Autotrader and found this. It's a 2012 Focus SE that was apparently used as a rental in Texas and made it up to Ohio at the beginning of this year. Should the fact that it's been on sale since January and currently is listed for 2000 under KBB freak me out as much as it does or would it be worth checking out?
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Jun 12, 2013 14:16
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Proposed Budget: $5-10,000 (I know, it's a big range) New or Used: Used Body Style: 2 or 4-door sedan How will you be using the car?: About an hour of driving per day, just to get me to and from work, mostly. What aspects are most important to you? I'm looking for something pretty reliable. I just want to get to work in a place with jack crap for public transport, without having to share a car with somebody. I'm interested in getting a CPO from a dealership, because the only vehicle maintenance I know how to do is half-assedly replacing disk brakes. Honestly, my real question is "How big a wad of cash should I bring with me to offer as a down payment?" I'm hoping to get away with $1000, but I'm supposedly in line for a raise soon, so I might be able to bump that up if I need to. I'm just looking for a car that works, even if it's not pretty, and won't take years and years to pay off. I don't really care about having the crappiest car in the parking lot at work- I just need to be able to make it to work in the first place.
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Jun 12, 2013 14:49
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deadly_pudding posted:I'm interested in getting a CPO from a dealership, because the only vehicle maintenance I know how to do is half-assedly replacing disk brakes. First, you're going to have a hard time finding a CPO in your price range. Most CPOs are lease returns and rental fleet cars, which are usually going to sell for a little more money, and in any case, CPO isn't all it's cracked up to be. It just means "this is a car that is new enough that it's low-risk for our dealership to 'certify' it"... which renders the term fairly meaningless since you could buy the exact same car private-party and get the same condition, for probably less money. You should have any car you buy get a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) from an independent mechanic anyway. Second, since you know you'll be financing, get a preapproval for a private loan from your bank or (ideally) a credit union. That way you'll already have a financing deal in your back pocket. When you go shopping you will find plenty of dealerships who are quite happy to finance a car for you for zero down. It's all about the horrible interest rates they will charge you for your pre-owned vehicle. Dealers love financing, it's a huge profit center for them and unlike credit card debt, a car loan is secured (e.g., if you default they just repossess the car) so the risk is much lower for them. So get your financing lined up ahead of time, then go find the car you want, negotiate on price (refuse to discuss how you will pay until the actual price is settled), and then give the dealership the opportunity to beat your in-the-pocket financing deal. Make sure you know exactly how much you're paying... don't negotiate based on a monthly payment, but rather the total out-the-door price including tax, documentation, and fees. And remember that the strongest negotiating tactic you have is your willingness to walk away if you're not happy. There are tons of cars in the segment you're shopping for so you have no need to pay too much for one. Stick to your guns and if you're not completely happy with the price, leave. They'll either chase you down and cave in, call you the next day and counteroffer, or let you go and you can find another car to buy. I think you should be able to find reliable cars in the $5k to $10k range. In fact I think that's kind of the sweet spot for finding cars that have gotten through most of the steep part of their depreciation, but aren't so high miles that you'll be doing constant repairs. Especially since you are shopping 2 or 4 door commute sedans, which are the most plentiful kind of car there is. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jun 12, 2013 |
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Jun 12, 2013 17:29
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iamnotcreative posted:I was doing a search on Autotrader and found this. It's a 2012 Focus SE that was apparently used as a rental in Texas and made it up to Ohio at the beginning of this year. Should the fact that it's been on sale since January and currently is listed for 2000 under KBB freak me out as much as it does or would it be worth checking out? What the gently caress is wrong with you people and your obsession with ex-fleet vehicles? Do Not Buy A Rental Car
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Jun 13, 2013 02:49
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CatchrNdRy posted:I qualify for X-plan. If invoice for a base 2013 Fusion is 20,143, plugging it into the x-plan formula gives me 20,338. Do what was discussed earlier, but there are not any substantive changes to the Fusion for 2014, so your leverage is reduced. You will gain leverage when dealers are carrying aged inventory of 2013s. This is in the 150+ day range. So if 2014s are hitting lots right now, you may start to see additional discounts on some 2013s in October.
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Jun 13, 2013 02:50
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CatchrNdRy posted:I'm not sure how to approach this, so I just email the manager for the specific Fusion and ask them to make me an offer that is lower than the one on the website? I'm sorta slow can you give me an example of what to write? I'm interested in the Fusion (stock #). What's the best you can do? Rinse and repeat for other dealers.
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Jun 13, 2013 03:30
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:there are not any substantive changes to the Fusion for 2014 Although it's basically the same as the 1.6, just a leeeeeetle bit smaller and more efficent, and possibly more reliable as they've had some time to deal with teething problems in their first group of Ecoboost engines. The 1.5 will replace the 1.6 for the Fusion with an automatic transmission; the manual will still have the 1.6.
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Jun 13, 2013 03:32
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I'm 22, and I might have to become financially independent from my parents soon. I assume this is going to involve getting my own insurance, too. How do I avoid getting completely hosed as a <25 year old man? Currently I have a '99 Subaru.
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Jun 13, 2013 05:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm 22, and I might have to become financially independent from my parents soon. I assume this is going to involve getting my own insurance, too. How do I avoid getting completely hosed as a <25 year old man? Currently I have a '99 Subaru. There isn't really anything you can do necessarily, at least not now. Just shop around and look for a good price. Your rate has a lot of factors beyond age that can help or hurt you as well, driving record, safety features, engine, security features, where you live, etc. Driving record plays a big part, so if you're record is pretty clean, you may come out ok.
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Jun 13, 2013 05:36
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do what was discussed earlier, but there are not any substantive changes to the Fusion for 2014, so your leverage is reduced. You will gain leverage when dealers are carrying aged inventory of 2013s. This is in the 150+ day range. So if 2014s are hitting lots right now, you may start to see additional discounts on some 2013s in October. thanks, I didn't realize it would be so long till 2014s are out (I see no release date for them now) Bovril Delight posted:I'm interested in the Fusion (stock #). What's the best you can do? Will do, I didn't realize it would be so simple, I was ready to write multi-paragraphs!
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Jun 13, 2013 07:12
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skipdogg posted:I was going to recommend you look at '10 to '12 Fusion SEL's. The SEL comes with the 3.0 Duratec V6, which ticks that box. It's not the greatest engine, but it'll give you relatively comfortable passing power on the freeway. The SEL will have leather and heated seats standard and if you really look you might be able to find an AWD model as well if you are willing to take the MPG hit. You shouldn't have a problem finding lots of Fusions to look at in your price range. Thanks for this recommendation, it absolutely ticks all of the boxes I'm looking for. I wasn't 100% thrilled with the 200 when I test drove it last night (the shifting when decelerating was a little clunky and it had surprisingly little backseat legroom, everything else seemed great), so I plan on trying out one of these Fusions in the next couple days.
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Jun 13, 2013 13:51
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revengeanceful posted:Thanks for this recommendation, it absolutely ticks all of the boxes I'm looking for. I wasn't 100% thrilled with the 200 when I test drove it last night (the shifting when decelerating was a little clunky and it had surprisingly little backseat legroom, everything else seemed great), so I plan on trying out one of these Fusions in the next couple days. 2010 Fusion I4 and 3.0l V6 was the first year with the GM/Ford joint venture 6 speed transmission which was plagued with problems. They (probably) fixed most of the problems eventually but blown transmissions before 15k miles are very common. If you are interested in one you should at least be very careful and get a full service history. If it has had a trans replacement recently it's probably OK, but you don't want to get caught with a bad trans out of warranty. The mileage difference between the FWD and the AWD is only 1 mpg combined. The 3.5l V6 has a Toyota transmission and does not have this problem. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 14:05
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Thanks for the heads-up. Is that just an issue with the 2010 model year, or should I be wary of the same issue with 2011 and 2012?
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Jun 13, 2013 14:13
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2010 was definitely the bad year, they kept using the same transmission in later years while scrambling to fix the ones already out with recalls and software updates, like I said they eventually did fix it but no one outside of Ford can know exactly when, you can google it, it's a very well known/widespread problem. Ninja edit: A look on truedelta seems to indicate lower frequency of problems as the model years progress, but 2012s still show many instances of transmission problems. The Hybrid also does not have any problems as it uses the Toyota hybrid CVT. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 14:22
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deadly_pudding posted:Proposed Budget: $5-10,000 (I know, it's a big range) This is almost my exact situation right here, except I'm not necessarily looking for a CPO, just used, and I have a car to trade in. I read Leperflesh's post about it, but frankly I'm not sure what models I should even be looking at. I haven't been car shopping since 2006, and back then I bought a 99 Plymouth Breeze. It's been great up until it got to the 100k mark, and now it's just crumbling all around me. neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 17:41
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Proposed Budget: $5-10,000 New or Used: Used Body Style: Whatever How will you be using the car?: Getting in trouble during weekends What aspects are most important to you?: Cost of ownership and space. Lately, I've had some extra money to throw around, and I think it might be nice to have a car to utilize while cruising for chicks. I won't be using it for my commute, since parking would be a problem. That means that it's going to be ignored most days. I'm a big guy, and I would prefer a car that will let me sit up straight without opening the sunroof, and won't get the steering wheel stuck in my bellybutton. My last car was a 2006 Passat, which was nice, but expensive. I really don't see any reason to spend that kind of money now, since I don't expect to get a lot of use out of the car.
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Jun 15, 2013 00:37
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corded ware culture posted:I got promoted which, paradoxically, means that I no longer have use of a company vehicle. So I'm looking to get a car. I test drove a 2012 Ford Focus SEL today that was within my price range and really liked it. I liked the styling, interior, gadgetry and handling. My only problem is I'd prefer something a little bigger if possible. I might go for it anyway since everything else about it was up my alley, but I wanted to ask if there was something similar out there in my price range that had a little more room? Someone recommended the Prius to me - what is total cost of ownership of those? I'm concerned about the extra electronics / battery / etc. Also reading up online about the 2012 Focus makes me concerned about the automatic transmission. I didn't have any issues with it finding gears on my drive, but a lot of reviews seem to be saying the same thing and there was a recall previously? Something to worry about? I also drove a 2010 VW GTI. I liked this car a lot. A bit higher than what I want to spend, but the style of the interior, handling, and giddy-up grabbed me. Are the VW Golfs at all similar stylistically? Are VW's too much of a pain in the rear end? Is there a similar vehicle in my price range I could look at? I'd value the style, handling, roominess and gadgetry of the GTI over the speed if that helps. corded ware culture fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jun 16, 2013 |
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Jun 15, 2013 23:56
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corded ware culture posted:Someone recommended the Prius to me... I'm concerned about the extra electronics / battery / etc. I don't know exactly how the TCO would compare when you factor in the initial cost of purchase, but gas mileage is... um, well, it's a Prius.  If you get under 40 MPG something's wrong. Toyota was also concerned about the extra electronics / battery / etc when they were designing the Prius, and as a result of their concern, your concern is unfounded and the car is basically the new benchmark for reliability.
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Jun 16, 2013 07:22
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Any thoughts on the Mazda 6 s, particularly the 2010 model year? I found one near me with extremely low mileage that I think looks great, but as always, I'll take any thoughts you guys have into consideration as well.
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Jun 16, 2013 21:11
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Know nothing bad about them. As there is a new gen which may be the best car in the class right now, the old one should be cheapish.
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Jun 17, 2013 02:35
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So as per the advice of this thread, I emailed a bunch of salespeople for a 2013 base model Ford Fusion. They said there is a $49 + invoice event, and he could lower it another 200 for me before having to ask his manager. So the offer is about 20,300. He basically asked me to counter. Is offering 18,500 insulting?
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Jun 17, 2013 06:42
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I've been tasked with helping my sister (24, living in LA, and just starting her first job earning $50kish/year) find a replacement for her 1996 Toyota Celica. The details: Budget: 14-16k New or Used: Used Body Style: Preferably 2 door/coupe/sporty How will you be using the car?: Mainly sitting in LA traffic Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?): She'd definitely prefer it What aspects are most important to you? Style (her) followed by reliability/cost-of-ownership (her family) My sister's surprisingly reasonable about it and does not want to buy a used 3-series/A4/C-class. She's currently got her eye on an Altima Coupe. My parents currently have a 2007 Nissan Altima which has been reliable if not a bit dull to drive. Anyone have any objections to the Altima Coupe or alternatives?
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Jun 17, 2013 16:29
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CatchrNdRy posted:So as per the advice of this thread, I emailed a bunch of salespeople for a 2013 base model Ford Fusion. Is he including the current 1500 dollar rebate on the car right now? If not that gets you down to 18.8 which is probably as low as you're going to get it. It's not insulting, it's business, but there is a point where people get unreasonable, and you're on that borderline. Also what does his offer of 20,300 include? Is he including the 795 destination? I'm sure they're not eating that part of it as well. Invoice on that car is 20,422 + 795 destination fee. If he's quoting 20,300 he can't be including it. I would ask for the car at 18,800 reminding him of the current 1500 dollar rebate and then get an OTD price to see what they add on. The Ford dealer by me sells cars all day at invoice, but tacks on fees like the salesman commission to the extra line items. Makes people think they're getting a better deal than they really are. I would say 18,500 on a new Fusion is borderline impossible.
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Jun 17, 2013 18:34
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Residency Evil posted:My sister's surprisingly reasonable about it and does not want to buy a used 3-series/A4/C-class. She's currently got her eye on an Altima Coupe. My parents currently have a 2007 Nissan Altima which has been reliable if not a bit dull to drive. Anyone have any objections to the Altima Coupe or alternatives? The only thing you need to know about the Altima coupe that is different from the Altima sedan is that it has 2 doors and less trunk space. Saltin fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jun 17, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 22:34
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skipdogg posted:Is he including the current 1500 dollar rebate on the car right now? If not that gets you down to 18.8 which is probably as low as you're going to get it. It's not insulting, it's business, but there is a point where people get unreasonable, and you're on that borderline. Here is what he said: 20,161 sales price (including incentive) 517 Window Tint and Paint Protection???? 810.50 Doc and reg 1,716.33 tax Toss out the tint and paint, and knock the sales price to 18,800? Is that reasonable? Despite this alleged sale, I don't feel I'm really getting a deal. E: realized the sales price does not include incentive CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jun 18, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 22:52
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Well, here's the situation, I'm not sure I can actually afford a car, but I thought this would be the place to ask. I'm 27 and have never owned a car. I'm moving this fall to a place accessible only by ferry or plane. It would make moving a lot easier to own a car and take the ferry. Plus it would be nice to own a car.  Proposed Budget: <$3000 New or Used: Used Body Style: Station wagon, sedan, very small truck How will you be using the car?: One 300 mile roadtrip, short drives after that, rain, snow, ice. What aspects are most important to you?: Affordable, will run at least 6 months to a year, won't kill me in the snow. I know next to nothing about cars. I also am curious what other costs add up to be when buying a car, like, getting an independent mechanic check, registration, fees, insurance. It seems like from what I've read here getting a car so cheap is kind of a crap-shoot. So I'm debating whether or not it will be worth it. Hopefully I'll get a job that wants to pay me a relocation bonus and that'll free up my budget a bit. Ideas? Opinions? Magic bullet cars?
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Jun 18, 2013 00:44
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fanpantstic posted:Ideas? Opinions? Magic bullet cars? How often will you need that car after you move? Because it sounds like renting a uHaul and buying a bike might be more appropriate to your situation. Unless you're mechanically inclined or have a mechanic that you trust implicitly it is difficult to ensure reliability on that budget of yours. (Also, your avatar looks familiar but I can't place it. MAYAEWK?)
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Jun 18, 2013 01:17
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fanpantstic posted:Well, here's the situation, I'm not sure I can actually afford a car, but I thought this would be the place to ask. I'm 27 and have never owned a car. I'm moving this fall to a place accessible only by ferry or plane. It would make moving a lot easier to own a car and take the ferry. Plus it would be nice to own a car. Don't buy a car.
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Jun 18, 2013 02:44
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Don't buy a car. This is seriously the best post in the entire thread so far.
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Jun 18, 2013 02:48
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Agronox posted:How often will you need that car after you move? Because it sounds like renting a uHaul and buying a bike might be more appropriate to your situation. Yeah, no mechanic friends. I think taking a Uhaul on the ferry would be significantly more expensive to little lasting benefit. I own a bike, but I don't see commuting by bike in the snow. I'll probably just get rid of most of my stuff and mail the rest. And, yes, MAYAEWK.  KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Don't buy a car. Yeah, that's kind of what I figured. :/ I still am curious, though, because I anticipate being able to afford a car after a year or so, what are additional costs at the beginning of car ownership like?
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Jun 18, 2013 02:50
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fanpantstic posted:Yeah, that's kind of what I figured. :/ Beyond insurance and basic maintenance like oil changes, it's hard to say as it will depend heavily on the condition of the vehicle you buy. Could need new tires, could need new brakes, could need fluids changed, belts replaced, etc. All of those are wear items, but they all need to be replaced at different times.
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Jun 18, 2013 03:01
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The government also taxes your purchase of the vehicle and requires you to pay Cash Money to register it.
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Jun 18, 2013 03:03
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I don't think this is such a crazy idea, plenty of perfectly respectable people all over the country are happily commuting to work in their 3rd Gen F or W bodies, Panthers, Chrysler LH cars, Dodge Caravans, etc. But you need to be at least a little bit above the "I know next to nothing about cars" level for this to work out. If you have more time than money, you can't just buy shiny new cars like rich people, you'll have to spend your time on research before starting out on the sub-$5000 car lifestyle.
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Jun 18, 2013 03:51
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