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FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

einTier posted:

LANA!


Seriously, I agree with you. It's just what I had, and I hadn't mastered that yet. If I encounter the same thing again, I'll probably buy a rotary buffer and try my hand at it. It's just spooky knowing that you really don't know how to use it, but if you use it wrong, you can easily ruin the paint forever.

Oh I know how to use a rotary buffer and wool pad, it's what I learned on because I was too poor for a random orbital. :unsmith:

In fact, my first car ever was done with a harbor freight rotary buffer and harbor freight wool pad with megs ultimate compound/polish. It was my friends 96 dodge pickup and it turned out p-good.

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MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
So my dads returned to find his new car bombarded by seagull poo poo and after he carefully cleaned it off he says that the spots where the poo poo was are now matte and visible. The poo poo was left on for a weekend. Is it just him not cleaning it enough or is it possible that the poo poo actually hosed his paint up? Any recommendations?

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
What's something good I can clean a bare aluminum radiator with? I know stuff like simple green and purple power can gently caress up aluminum, but I'm not sure of anything else stronger than soapy water.

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

MrOnBicycle posted:

So my dads returned to find his new car bombarded by seagull poo poo and after he carefully cleaned it off he says that the spots where the poo poo was are now matte and visible. The poo poo was left on for a weekend. Is it just him not cleaning it enough or is it possible that the poo poo actually hosed his paint up? Any recommendations?

Bird poo poo is incredibly acidic and there is a good chance his paint might be hosed up.

Chinatown
Sep 11, 2001

by Fluffdaddy
Fun Shoe

ratbert90 posted:

Bird poo poo is incredibly acidic and there is a good chance his paint might be hosed up.

This. I wipe poop off my car as soon as I see it.

Protip: If its totally hardened and stuck to the car, wet a paper towel and lay it over it for like 5 minutes. Then wipe the re-hydrated poop away.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html

I found this. It's the first type. I hope he can get it off because it's a new car and he always wipes it off straight away. :(

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jun 13, 2013

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

MrOnBicycle posted:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html

I found this. It's the first type. I hope he can get it off because it's a new car and he always wipes it off straight away. :(

How he wiped it off is important also.

Polymerized Cum
May 5, 2012
A couple of the stone chips on the door of my car have a little surface rust on them. What is the best way to stop them from becoming actual rust?

I'm talking tiny, like the head of an eraser sized.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Polymerized Cum posted:

A couple of the stone chips on the door of my car have a little surface rust on them. What is the best way to stop them from becoming actual rust?

I'm talking tiny, like the head of an eraser sized.

http://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Ultra-Thin-BRS-290-00/dp/B002RMCFZM/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

A scratch brush is the best way to clean a chip before touching it up. The fiberglass bristles just scratch the surface rust right off, leaving you with a clean metal surface to immediately touch up.

War Bunny
Jul 7, 2009

I don't silflay at this time, sir.
ratbert, I'm thinking about using Opti-coat on my car pretty soon. Any advice?

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

War Bunny posted:

ratbert, I'm thinking about using Opti-coat on my car pretty soon. Any advice?

It's great and amazing. Just make sure you let it set long enough, and make sure your car is spotless before you apply it. It's really recommended to fully clay, buff, and polish the car before you apply it.

War Bunny
Jul 7, 2009

I don't silflay at this time, sir.
Awesome, I can't wait to try it. Should I do an iso wipe down beforehand? I'm really looking forward to having such a great barrier on my play-doh-like Subaru paint.

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001
If you use OPT's line of compounds/polishes then I'm fairly sure Dr. G himself says that all you need is a damp towel wipedown before applying OC.

The instructions do say to do a 15% IPA wipedown to prep the surface for OC.

It also sounds like your expectations for OC are a bit high - to me it sounds like many people have unrealistic expectations when it comes to the mar resistance of the newer tech coatings.

War Bunny
Jul 7, 2009

I don't silflay at this time, sir.
Nah, it's not that I think that it is a magical barrier against damage, but I think it will work well with my wash routine. I don't have any optimum compounds, so I guess I'll be doing the ipa. Thanks for the info.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

So can you help out a detail-tard? Everything in the driveway needs a wash and wax. Normally what I'd do is to wash them with dish soap, chamois them off, clay them, then put some Mothers Carnauba on with the little foam pad that comes in the can and then take it off with a terrycloth pad on a Craftsman orbital buffer followed by a microfiber pad or a final wipe off with a microfiber towel to get the remaining bits. I have started taping off trim since I realized that's easier/faster than dealing with cleaning the wax off of it (which I usually just don't do so my stuff looks like crap).

I now know a lot of this is sub-optimal or all out wring.

Because of this thread I've bought a bottle of Megs #7. I have the buffer I mentioned. What pads should I buy to make this as useful as possible and exactly where should I use it? A quick procedure run-down would be great.

If I must buy things to do this properly I will (like the porter cable buffer in the OP), but even with my incompetence nothing is in terrible shape and in need of any kind of serious fixing. I just figure if I'm gonna go waxing everything I may as well do a better job so it looks better and/or lasts longer.

Also, if I need to "try things out" that I need to get a feel for I have poo poo laying around I can do that on (old body panels - got a door and a fender with enough good paint on them to test things out) so I'm not worried about learning how to do something that could screw up paint.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
You working with single-stage paint? M#7 seems to be a SS kind of polish.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

revmoo posted:

You working with single-stage paint? M#7 seems to be a SS kind of polish.

Yes, the Rovers are single stage. The Porsche I painted base/clear, like from the factory. So I shouldn't be putting #7 on the Porsche? It says on the bottle SS and base/clear.

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001
What's the goal, and what kind of condition are the cars in now?

7 is non abrasive, or as Meguiar's calls it, a "pure polish" - the reason it's good for restoring those super old original oxidized SS paints is because it's very oily and, because it's non abrasive, gentle; in a sense the cloth is the abrasive. But if you're trying to remove swirls and scratches it's not the right product for the job. It's also not made to be a protective LSP, nor is it made to be long lasting.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Scott808 posted:

What's the goal, and what kind of condition are the cars in now?

7 is non abrasive, or as Meguiar's calls it, a "pure polish" - the reason it's good for restoring those super old original oxidized SS paints is because it's very oily and, because it's non abrasive, gentle; in a sense the cloth is the abrasive. But if you're trying to remove swirls and scratches it's not the right product for the job. It's also not made to be a protective LSP, nor is it made to be long lasting.

OK, so as far as long lasting maybe I was confusing it with opticoat?

From your description, this seems like the right thing for the rovers. One of them was pretty lovely but I took care of it with clay and some crappy white polish on a terry pad with the buffer (am I a monster or what?). Been fine since then after a wax. They are both just...old, but still pretty shiny. I was hoping to maybe punch that up a bit with the #7. No swirls or scratches to deal with here.

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

Motronic posted:

OK, so as far as long lasting maybe I was confusing it with opticoat?

From your description, this seems like the right thing for the rovers. One of them was pretty lovely but I took care of it with clay and some crappy white polish on a terry pad with the buffer (am I a monster or what?). Been fine since then after a wax. They are both just...old, but still pretty shiny. I was hoping to maybe punch that up a bit with the #7. No swirls or scratches to deal with here.

Read this about Megs #7.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...age-paints.html

No seriously, read it again. It's amazing for stuff for single stage paints, but not so great for anything with a modern base + clear.


The standard buff/polish combination for anything with a base + clear is megs 105/205 with a LC orange/white pad with a PC7424XP.

As for what to wipe down with? Clean microfiber towels is my favorite thing. Walmart sells giant ones that are super absorbant.


The reason I keep recommending the PC7424xp is because it's drat near impossible to gently caress up your paint with it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4
In conclusion:

Rovers: megs #7 (read the thread, go do it, post pictures here.)
Porsche: Megs 105/205 LC orage/white PC7424XP.


As for wax? I like Megs gold class wax because it smells good. :allears:

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001

Motronic posted:

OK, so as far as long lasting maybe I was confusing it with opticoat?

From your description, this seems like the right thing for the rovers. One of them was pretty lovely but I took care of it with clay and some crappy white polish on a terry pad with the buffer (am I a monster or what?). Been fine since then after a wax. They are both just...old, but still pretty shiny. I was hoping to maybe punch that up a bit with the #7. No swirls or scratches to deal with here.

Sorry, what I meant by not long lasting is in comparison to "normal" waxes/sealants, not stuff like OC which is essentially permanent. Regarding 7, I remember Ron Ketcham using the phrase "king for a day". It is called Show Car Glaze, after all.

Ron Ketcham posted:

All three products were formulated for old lacquers, Floyd did the chemistry when he was still part of the family business.
They are loaded with various polishing oils and some fillers, as Floyd used to say about when they were used-
"King for a Day" and you get to reapply them the next day.

quote:

A. It is not really possible to put "oils" back into the paint. That is an old wives tale from years ago with old laquers, and #7 was the go to, King for a Day and it was evaporated off the paint, just made it look good for a short time.

Ron used to work at Finish Kare (Floyd Meguiar's company) and at Automotive International.

I can't believe you don't have any swirls or scratches to take out. Any car that gets washed (maybe not a total garage queen) will eventually pick some up, even if they're light ones.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Scott808 posted:

I can't believe you don't have any swirls or scratches to take out. Any car that gets washed (maybe not a total garage queen) will eventually pick some up, even if they're light ones.

I should clarify that: they are both while and while they certainly do have some they aren't bad and/or I'm not discerning enough to be bothered by them until I start looking more seriously. Maybe I should wash/dry them and get some pictures.

ratbert90 posted:

Read this about Megs #7.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...age-paints.html

No seriously, read it again. It's amazing for stuff for single stage paints, but not so great for anything with a modern base + clear.

Thank you. I'm working my way though this. It's a lot of information and seems pretty good. (but what do I know?)

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001

Motronic posted:

I should clarify that: they are both while and while they certainly do have some they aren't bad and/or I'm not discerning enough to be bothered by them until I start looking more seriously. Maybe I should wash/dry them and get some pictures.

If this is the case I'm not quite sure where you're trying to go with this. Proper prep is (almost) everything. Appearance wise, the LSP (Last Step Product - a wax, sealant, or what have you) is much less important than the prep that comes before it.

So when you say it's pretty shiny but you want to punch that up a bit, in my opinion you get that extra bit from doing the proper prep work - removing or minimizing imperfections in the paint. You can get a glaze that will fill some imperfections instead of removing them, but glazes will often limit what LSPs you can put over them properly.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


I've mentioned it before, but if someone wants an amazing finish with minimal amount of work, pick up Meg's microfiber system. It's dead simple to use and it's magic. It can do as much or as little correction as you want and the pads are very safe. The product also wipes off with minimal effort.

I clayed and then did my DGM 2011 the other weekend and not only is any hint of holograming gone, I was able to make a few small scratches that you could catch a fingernail ever so slightly in disappear. Completely. In about 10 seconds work. Witchcraft.

I'm probably going to follow it up with a hand applied coat of Ultimate Wax just as an extra layer, but the finishing wax has held up well so far on its own.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Scott808 posted:

So when you say it's pretty shiny but you want to punch that up a bit, in my opinion you get that extra bit from doing the proper prep work - removing or minimizing imperfections in the paint.

OK, I'll buy that. This is why I'm posting here - I don't know poo poo about this stuff. If that's how you get it looking better then I guess I do have a bunch of work to do. I should start looking at them closer the way I do on new paint.

bull3964 posted:

I've mentioned it before, but if someone wants an amazing finish with minimal amount of work, pick up Meg's microfiber system. It's dead simple to use and it's magic. It can do as much or as little correction as you want and the pads are very safe. The product also wipes off with minimal effort.

Is there anything similar I can use with the random orbital I already have, or is a DA (I assume I can't use my air sander :) ) the only reasonable way to make these things happen?

I appreciate all the help here. I'm just trying to wrap my head around it well enough so I'm not wasting my time or materials and can get a decent job done. If I can get a basic procedure worked out and have the stuff around to do it I'll be happy, but honestly there is so much poo poo out there that it's hard to pick out what's right, what wrong, and what's useless. Most of the marketing I see on any of this stuff is right around the level of "mechanic in a bottle" type solutions so it's all quite off-putting to me.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ratbert90 posted:


In conclusion:

Rovers: megs #7 (read the thread, go do it, post pictures here.)
Porsche: Megs 105/205 LC orage/white PC7424XP.


As for wax? I like Megs gold class wax because it smells good. :allears:

Done processing the infodump. It makes enough sense to me. Orders placed per your recommendations.

Thank you very much.

This may get me off my rear end to cut and buff the spots on the Porsche where I screwed up when painting it (every...drat...place I didn't have sufficient light, surprise). I've wet sanded jobs I've painted before, but always had someone else around with a rotary buffer to finish the job. I guess I'll see if the PC buffer will work well enough. From the bottle, 105 SHOULD be able to pull it off, but the "removes 1200 grit or finer sanding marks" may not apply to a DA polisher.

Edit: Is there any reason at all for me to keep my Craftsman random orbital buffer around now? If not I'll toss it on eBay.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jun 18, 2013

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

Motronic posted:

Done processing the infodump. It makes enough sense to me. Orders placed per your recommendations.

Thank you very much.

This may get me off my rear end to cut and buff the spots on the Porsche where I screwed up when painting it (every...drat...place I didn't have sufficient light, surprise). I've wet sanded jobs I've painted before, but always had someone else around with a rotary buffer to finish the job. I guess I'll see if the PC buffer will work well enough. From the bottle, 105 SHOULD be able to pull it off, but the "removes 1200 grit or finer sanding marks" may not apply to a DA polisher.

Edit: Is there any reason at all for me to keep my Craftsman random orbital buffer around now? If not I'll toss it on eBay.

You could keep it around as back up. :)

As far as wetsanding, do I have a infodump for you!

Wetsanding: Fresh paint vs factory paint

If it has paint it gets polished

How to remove orange peel and sanding marks

These will ALL apply to the PC7424xp. This is all incredibly good and detailed information, and you should be just fine if you follow those instructions!



*Edit*

Comming from personal experience, I have wetsanded three cars in my lifetime and spot wetsanded countless others.

1) Wetsanding an entire car is awesome if done correctly, and makes everything look mirror glossy.
2) Always start with 3000 grit and move DOWN if needed.
3) I have made my friends rattle can matt-black finish 91crx si look like glass, it's very possible, and it took me almost 40 hours to do.
4) Spot wetsanding is always awesome too! It can knock out rough orange peel spots and small scratches. Don't worry about one small spot looking super shiny either.
5) If you are to wetsand a whole car, USE SANDING DISCS OH GOD USE THEM PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD USE THEM I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH THAT YOU SHOULD USE THEM I AM YELLING THIS BECAUSE YOU SHOULD USE THEM.

Seriously, don't wetsand a whole car by hand, you just bought a PC7424XP.

FlapYoJacks fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jun 18, 2013

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001

Motronic posted:

Edit: Is there any reason at all for me to keep my Craftsman random orbital buffer around now? If not I'll toss it on eBay.

Did you ever want to paint your car with wax? Here's a helpful how to video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2znDf2bslH4

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ratbert90 posted:

5) If you are to wetsand a whole car, USE SANDING DISCS OH GOD USE THEM PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD USE THEM I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH THAT YOU SHOULD USE THEM I AM YELLING THIS BECAUSE YOU SHOULD USE THEM.

Seriously, don't wetsand a whole car by hand, you just bought a PC7424XP.

While I don't need to wetsand nearly the whole thing (just most of the bottom end of the passenger side....for now, that may expand with good results) I'm an air tool guy. There is no way in hell I was about to do that poo poo by hand. I also knew enough from previous experience that my first base/clear AND by first metallic rolled into one was going to be problematic, so they were laid on thick, especially the clear, for just this occasion. The hood is a disaster....you can't fix tiger stripes in the flop on the base coat (gun clogged on the second coat, looked fine after 3 more.....not so much after it all dried with clear on it), but I'm sure I can make things much better overall. And if I can I'll probably be motivated to repaint the hood better. And the driver's side fender that I'm still not happy with the bodywork on.

A lof of my hesitation on this was not being able to much more than barely adequately paint. If I can learn to wet sand myt blends (has been done before by other people on my paint blends, just don't know enough to do it myself) I'll be opening myself to a whole new facet of AI.


Scott808 posted:

Did you ever want to paint your car with wax? Here's a helpful how to video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2znDf2bslH4

At this point I think I'll just throw it in the trash so no one will every use it for that. Thanks.

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001

Motronic posted:

At this point I think I'll just throw it in the trash so no one will every use it for that. Thanks.

Actually, here's a supposedly legit but non auto related use - a massager:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5ictPToU9M

http://www.allthingsgym.com/car-polisher-next-level-self-myofascial-release/

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Scott808 posted:

Actually, here's a supposedly legit

Really? Because that looked like dumping a whole poo poo ton of extra product on the car/ground/his shirt to me.

Like I said, I don't know a drat thing about this, I'm trying to learn....but not much about that looked correct to me. Admittedly, as soon as he said Harbor Freight I started waiting for it to catch on fire.

Should you be slopping wax around like that? Even more importantly, should I cancel my Meguiars order and buy wax from Harbor Freight instead?

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001

Motronic posted:

Really? Because that looked like dumping a whole poo poo ton of extra product on the car/ground/his shirt to me.

Like I said, I don't know a drat thing about this, I'm trying to learn....but not much about that looked correct to me. Admittedly, as soon as he said Harbor Freight I started waiting for it to catch on fire.

Should you be slopping wax around like that? Even more importantly, should I cancel my Meguiars order and buy wax from Harbor Freight instead?


I have no clue how you're getting that I'm saying the Harbor Freight guy is legit. I was giving you a possible use for your orbital that's totally unrelated to autos.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Scott808 posted:

I was giving you a possible use for your orbital that's totally unrelated to autos.

My bad.

einTier
Sep 25, 2003

Charming, friendly, and possessed by demons.
Approach with caution.

ratbert90 posted:

Seriously, don't wetsand a whole car by hand, you just bought a PC7424XP.
This is funny because the 7424 was originally designed to sand wood, not polish.

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

einTier posted:

This is funny because the 7424 was originally designed to sand wood, not polish.

Exactly. :unsmith:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

UPS dropped off presents. Time to give this a shot.

I think I'll start on the $500 Rover.......

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

Motronic posted:

UPS dropped off presents. Time to give this a shot.

I think I'll start on the $500 Rover.......



Awww yeah son. Welcome to the club. :getin:

Post pictures!

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Motronic posted:

UPS dropped off presents. Time to give this a shot.

I think I'll start on the $500 Rover.......



drat that's a nice setup to get started. I picked up the foam cannon, cleaners and stuff but am a baby who's afraid of loving up paint with a buffer. Post some pictures as you go along, progress pictures are awesome.

Since I didn't get a buffer and the paint needed a LOT of work the M3 is being detailed by a pro. He's put a bunch of pictures on facebook and I think he'll be doing a full writeup for his portfolio.

ignore the fractured clear coat, the paint was severally neglected and lived outside much of it's life

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NitroSpazzz posted:

Post some pictures as you go along, progress pictures are awesome.

Well, here's what we're starting with. It just took me a couple of hours to wash and dry and it's still not great - moss and poo poo in the corners around the door handles and the like. It hasn't been washed since.....well, I guess since this time last year when it was way worse and I had to scrape moss off the roof and hit it with clay and the random orbital and white turtle wax polish to get some of the oxidation off. It actually made a huge difference, not because I knew what I was doing but because it was just that freaking bad.

So actually, let's start with when I bought it:



There is no shine at all on the hood, not even after it was washed. The roof and most of the sides were the same.

This is 2 hours ago:







So, I know it's hard to tell from pictures, but it's not tan-ish anymore. It's actually white again. Looking at it with a more critical eye, it's really impressively not that bad. I'm not sure how to get much better pictures, so I guess doing comparisons as I go panel by panel will probably work best. There are some sections that have some reasonably bad scratches, and some paint is missing down to the primer above the windshield (typical on these....I just don't care, especially not on this truck).

So here's after a wash. This is our starting baseline:



That makes it look a whole lot better than it is.

But then again, here's the passenger side door:



It's really not bad at all. Then there are spots like the back:



So I'll just keep working my way though this in the morning and update with pics as I go along.

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Cozmosis
Feb 16, 2003

2006... YEAR OF THE BURNITZ, BITCHES
http://imgur.com/n4yMoPY

What's the best way to tackle this? My passenger side mirror, a chunk of the paint taken off. I assume touch up paint over it but then what? Can I use some sort of kit for sanding it down? Clear coat?

A new part there is about $50 plus somewhere along the lines of $40 to have a bodyshop paint it. Wondered if I'd be able to do something for a good bit less to make it passable if not look OK. Thoughts?

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