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 My new St. May shotgun exhaust and eBay tinted zipper top.  Ignore the AFR plot, their vacuum system wasn't working quite right. 11-11.5 AFRs under load. Can't complain about ~55 whp over stock. destructo fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Jun 22, 2013 |
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Jun 22, 2013 09:23
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That exhaust looks pretty drat cool, how does it sound?
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Jun 22, 2013 22:59
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rhombus posted:My NA has a top of unknown vintage with a unzippered glass rear window (with non functioning defrost!) that has decided to start leaking around the edges. Is there any reason I can't go around the edges of the window with some black silicone sealant to buy some more time? This worked pretty well, in case anyone was wondering. There was a portion of the glass separating from the fabric and the black Permatext silicone adhesive/sealant from AutoZone appears to have fixed it all up.
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Jun 23, 2013 03:54
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Anybody happen to know if the driver's side and passenger's side seat sliders are interchangeable?
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Jun 23, 2013 20:41
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saint gerald posted:Anybody happen to know if the driver's side and passenger's side seat sliders are interchangeable? They're not, at least on an NB.
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Jun 23, 2013 22:34
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They won't be on a OBD-II NA either. Not sure about the earlier NAs.
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Jun 24, 2013 05:05
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The tub is essentially the same and the left compartment (USDM driver's side) of the cabin is way more narrow. I'll snag a pic tomorrow evening of the seat rails side by side.
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Jun 24, 2013 05:06
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Looks like somebody was in my miata over the weekend! I left it parked as usual right outside my windows (though I'm on the 3rd floor so need to look down from the balcony to see it), and this morning noticed that my seat was further back than usual, the microfiber glove I use to wipe the interior is in the passenger footwell, and a the little disgusting melted gold coin chocolate thing I had in the cupholder was eaten. So 1-0 for not locking your convertible, I guess? Maybe it were just some local kids who wouldn't break the glass or slash the top anyway, but I'm not too upset as long as they aren't being assholes and don't turn on the lights or push the car down the hill or something.
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Jun 24, 2013 10:44
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TrueChaos posted:They're not, at least on an NB. FatCow posted:They won't be on a OBD-II NA either. Not sure about the earlier NAs. Phone posted:The tub is essentially the same and the left compartment (USDM driver's side) of the cabin is way more narrow. I'll snag a pic tomorrow evening of the seat rails side by side. Ah, nothing's ever easy. Thanks, gents, that's saved me quite a bit of work.
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Jun 24, 2013 14:49
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There's a 92 NA near me that I'm thinking of picking up. 150k miles. Has some probably ugly (haven't seen yet) aftermarket wheels on it now, owner also offering to throw in stock alloys with winter tires. The bad:
What would you guys offer?   
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Jun 24, 2013 23:39
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What's with the paint, is it as dull and faded as it looks, or is that just the photo? The fuel pump/float assembly is apparently a pretty easy job though, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy8wzghWowk Edit: grammer/content mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 00:17
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Good question, not sure. He wants 2k, I'm thinking of offering KBB which is 1000-1400
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Jun 25, 2013 00:27
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It would depend heavily on rust concerns (if any) as well as the expected cost to fix the airbag issue but best case scenario (no rust, cheap repairs) I would go $1500-$2000 on that no problem. Mostly because any cheap NA in AZ is going to have an interior that's absolutely demolished by the sun, and that interior looks pretty drat good.
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Jun 25, 2013 00:35
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Yeah. Top condition matters a lot where I live too, because we're wet 3/4s of the year. Looks like the car does have a viscous LSD. I guess Torsen's didn't come until 1994? I haven't looked too hard at NAs so I don't know if his asking price is market and KBB is just way off or what.
blk fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 20:59
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blk posted:Looks like the car does had a viscous LSD. Changed to reflect reality.
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Jun 25, 2013 21:11
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Phone posted:Changed to reflect reality. Because of wear/lifespan?
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Jun 25, 2013 21:27
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Pretty much. The newest 1.6L car is 20 years old, but luckily the diff just acts like an open once the magic visciousness goes away in ~60k miles.
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Jun 25, 2013 21:39
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blk posted:I don't know if his asking price is market and KBB is just way off or what. It depends entirely on condition but KBB assumes a 20+ year old car is going to be a lot rougher than a lot of NAs are.
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Jun 25, 2013 22:17
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Goddammit, I contacted the guy 10 minutes after he posted the thing and have been asking him over the past 36 hours when I could see it. He never answered that question and just e-mailed me telling it's been sold.
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Jun 26, 2013 04:19
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I finally found an NA that isn't a rusty piece of shinto. This one is just an unrusty POS! $2,600 bucks. 122K. Runs and starts fine. Using more oil than I hoped probably leaking out somewhere I didn't see any clouds of smoke. Repainted but the original smurf can still be seen in the engine bay and trunk. Why wouldn't you just paint it blue again crazy people. 
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Jun 29, 2013 22:11
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They repainted it and kept the lovely pinstripe? 
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Jun 29, 2013 22:44
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The motor should be cool enough to pull the oil filter. loving ouch how does an intake manifold get so hot. Edit: Oil changes come fast when you did 5000 miles in a month. 
Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jun 29, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 22:48
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Phone posted:They repainted it and kept the lovely pinstripe? Only on one side! 
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Jun 29, 2013 23:28
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Phone posted:Pretty much. The newest 1.6L car is 20 years old, but luckily the diff just acts like an open once the magic visciousness goes away in ~60k miles.
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Jun 30, 2013 01:53
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destructo posted:This is Miata.net regurgitated forum garbage. Sorry :*. If the fluid hasn't been changed its probably true, but I don't see why a fluid change wouldn't fix it.
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Jun 30, 2013 14:29
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Good luck changing the fluid in that sealed unit.
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Jun 30, 2013 15:38
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Since when do Miatas have sealed rear ends?
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Jun 30, 2013 16:16
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Well, poo poo. New EGI relay didn't fix it. What could make the relay overheat? (Really hot to the touch after a few miles of driving) And what do I look at next? Fuel pump is fine, fuel tank is spotless.
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Jun 30, 2013 20:43
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Sounds like you've got an electrical gremlin going on, I'd check grounds for starters.
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Jun 30, 2013 23:51
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leica posted:Since when do Miatas have sealed rear ends? The early LSD is sealed and not serviceable. The housing however is serviceable. The early lsd was more of a hey don't get stuck in a 1/4 inch of snow on a slight incline thing not a lay a dual burnout for a mile kinda thing anyway. This car is addictive. I have already thought about buying up some parts cars and stacking them behind the garage. Thank goodness I don't have a truck capable of towing a trailer right now. My kids even like it. I am going to drive it until the timing belt snaps then decide what to do. What is the record for miles on an original belt? Previous owner died and his kids don't know if it ever was replaced. After I get a better idea of oil usage I might decide to change it before hand.
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Jul 1, 2013 00:16
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leica posted:Sounds like you've got an electrical gremlin going on, I'd check grounds for starters. Yeah I went over them last night and didn't see anything out of whack; I did find a few instances of folks having similar symptoms with the cam position sensor, so I replaced that. I was gonna drive it around today to see if that fixed it, and when I got out my front door there was a flat tire.  Cut on the inner sidewall, unfixable. Getting the tire mounted right now. I've started thinking about trading up, as the interior of this thing is pretty thrashed (all my fault- basically it was my work car for years) and not worth dumping tons of money into to renew (plus it's at 90k miles and the timing belt and other stuff is going to loom). Saw this on autotrader: http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2005&zip=36695&listingType=used&listingTypes=used&sellerTypes=b&mmt=[MAZDA[MIATA[]][]]&modelCode1=MIATA&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&makeCode1=MAZDA&startYear=2000&showcaseOwnerId=66365&numRecords=100&searchRadius=100&listingId=349582926&listingIndex=8&Log=0 '04, 15k miles, asking 10,800 for it. Downsides are cloth and 5 speed. Cloth I don't give a poo poo about (I can always reupholster), but would I hate going from my 6 speed to a 5 speed? Also, do you guys think the MSM is worth any kind of premium at all over a similar model? edit- also, when I emailed them to ask about photos, I got 5 emails. One saying "we'll take some pictures." Another saying "here are the pictures" (with nothing attached). Then three separate emails with 1 second .mov files attached. Derp.
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Jul 1, 2013 22:38
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I never hear of anyone throwing in bigger cams in these motors. Is this a thing or is it just that turbocharging is overwhelmingly the best power/$$ upgrade available?
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Jul 2, 2013 06:06
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They're not especially starved for airflow, if you want/need to stay NA for your class it's much more cost effective to use a VVT head. I thought the best argument against using any 1.6 differential is that they can blow up even with a stock engine under too hard of driving.
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Jul 2, 2013 07:45
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craig588 posted:I thought the best argument against using any 1.6 differential is that they can blow up even with a stock engine under too hard of driving. I blew up the diff on my '90 after 120k miles on stock power. In all fairness it did survive quite a bit of autocross use, a trip to the drag strip, and several years of general abuse.
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Jul 2, 2013 12:37
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GD_American posted:but would I hate going from my 6 speed to a 5 speed? Also, do you guys think the MSM is worth any kind of premium at all over a similar model? You might like the 5 speed more, less shifting. Also the MSM is always gonna be worth more, guys here like to poo poo on it, but for a factory turbo car it's pretty decent in my opinion.
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Jul 2, 2013 15:57
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I've got a 2003 LS (6 speed) and a 1996 Base (5 speed). The NA is notchy becuase it has an aftermarket shifter i like for racecar purposes, but from what i remember when they were stock they feel pretty much the same. The only way it should matter to you is if you're the breed of car-owner who says "more is better". IE 5 speed is massively worse than 6 speed. 300 horsepower is ok, 275 horsepower is pathetic. (They exist) A friend of mine simply refuses to own an NA, because "I've got a 6 speed, i couldnt deal with having only 5 gears".
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Jul 2, 2013 16:10
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I like the action on the 5 speed, really good positive engagement into the gears. With the Aisin box, you never are searching for the gears, but it lacks the satisfying clunk.
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Jul 2, 2013 16:16
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The 5-speed I had in my 95 NA is still to this day the best feeling transmission (and clutch and throttle response) I've had the pleasure of driving. It all just combines so perfectly. The 6-speed in my E46 comes close, but the clutch and throttle response aren't as raw and precise as in the NA so the whole package isn't quite as nice.
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Jul 2, 2013 20:54
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I am strongly considering a Miata, because I'm young and tired of driving shitbox cheapo cars. I'm reading up on Miata's furiously, but out of curiosity, what sort of price range should I be looking at? I skimmed the last dozen pages and most prices look like around $3k. Looking around Craigslist, most of the Miata's local to me are '99s and ~$5k. I realize that price can be all over the place depending on mileage, condition, etc, but I'm just not sure where to start basing my prices.
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Jul 2, 2013 23:32
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Look to KBB for a good head start since they will custom tailor the prices of vehicles to your area, after that factor in the condition and mileage plus extra goodies into the seller's asking price, if it's reasonable pull the trigger, if not talk them down or find something else. A big part of it is waiting for the right deal to come up and jumping on it before everyone else does.
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Jul 3, 2013 00:01
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