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Argenteus posted:Our trailer lost a wheel today... You'll laugh at how cheap that will be to fix, even if you do have to replace the entire axle (chances are you do). I did something similar to mine a couple of years ago. I didn't have to replace the wheel/tire, but the rest of the parts (axle, brake backing plate, drum, bearing, nut/pin) ended up at something like $120. I was blown away at how cheap everything was.
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Jun 26, 2013 08:53
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jamal posted:It's a good way to make light and stiff surfaces that see high aerodynamic loads. He would definitely be better off driving it with less giant wings on the car though. Generally you want to get the drivetrain and chassis/suspension dialed in before throwing huge aero loads into the mix. From a basics standpoint, it has a big splitter and big wing and such so there will be a reasonable amount of downforce. But there is no way of knowing how that downforce will be applied and what will happen at speed. If I had to guess, very pitch sensitive and unpredictable. Well, sure, those body fairings would see fairly high aerodynamic loads at M>0.5, but at car speeds I would have thought regular old fibreglass could do the job about as well. Those panels have small surface area, are not intended to generate much lift, lots of mounting points to the frame, not much bending moment... why would you bother with CF? (I say that not having done any CFD analysis on a car before). I'm sure the larger airfoils need to be CF, but he looks like he made those properly. edit: But yeah, perhaps he should have spent those 6 hours of testing on the drivetrain before worrying about aerodynamics. Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Jun 26, 2013 |
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Jun 26, 2013 09:56
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Captain Postal posted:Well, sure, those body fairings would see fairly high aerodynamic loads at M>0.5, but at car speeds I would have thought regular old fibreglass could do the job about as well. Those panels have small surface area, are not intended to generate much lift, lots of mounting points to the frame, not much bending moment... why would you bother with CF? (I say that not having done any CFD analysis on a car before). I'm sure the larger airfoils need to be CF, but he looks like he made those properly. Nobody wants to build a heavy race car, especially at an event where your engine loses power as you go. The other problem you have is that the panels sit relatively high where you especially don't want the weight, so there's all the more reason to choose CF. I'm not saying you can't make a very light shell from fibre glass, but it's much easier if you start with something less dense. The final reason is gently caress sanding fibre glass, that poo poo loving sucks. 
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Jun 26, 2013 10:22
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Sanding carbon fiber is way worse, and more toxic.
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Jun 26, 2013 12:11
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Just to throw this out there, but how much heavier would an aluminum body weighed than the CF? Are we talking 30-40 pounds here, because he could have easily skinned it in aluminum much quicker, neater and required no curing time. Again, the splitter and spoiler look nice, but I don't think those were home built to begin with.
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Jun 26, 2013 13:24
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jammyozzy posted:Nobody wants to build a heavy race car, especially at an event where your engine loses power as you go. The other problem you have is that the panels sit relatively high where you especially don't want the weight, so there's all the more reason to choose CF. I'm not saying you can't make a very light shell from fibre glass, but it's much easier if you start with something less dense. You're right. Money-no-object, CF will be lighter and I guess those few fractions of a pound matter at the pointy end of the racing industry. jammyozzy posted:The final reason is gently caress sanding fibre glass, that poo poo loving sucks. But you've never worked with CF, have you? silicon fiber is recognised as a foreign body, but carbon fiber is biologically inert. So silicon fibers get coated in little cyst thingies so the sharp silicon fibers can't cut/damage your cells, where sharp carbon fibers don't get coated and continue to cause cell damage for the rest of your (reduced) life. Very bad in the delicate tissue in your lungs when you breath them in
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Jun 26, 2013 16:21
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Sockington posted:The rear springs on the US first-gen Focus require some ingenuity to install. A local tech says there's a weird compressor that they have to use on them due to the location. Not on the sedan. I installed some SVT springs and there wasn't anything particularly hassling.
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Jun 26, 2013 16:59
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Electric failure caused by user idiocy. Left the sunroof on my '05 Mazda 3 open last night at a movie. It proceeded to rain a couple of centimeters making my drive home unpleasant. I managed to get the interior dry through with towels and leaving fans blowing through open windows in the garage overnight. But the radio seems to be hosed. The controls on the radio are completely unresponsive while the radio controls on the steering wheel work about 90% of the time. What puzzles me is that no water would have fallen directly on the radio while it did a little bit on the steering wheel. Two possibilities come to mind. a) Something is shorted in the steering wheel controls and locking out the face of the stereo or b) the high humidity in the car caused the radio face to short out. Hoping for the latter because I imagine it'll be easier to just pull an oem radio from a wrecker or online to replace it. Any insight or advice?
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Jun 26, 2013 17:37
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The (aftermarket) stereo in my miata got wet a while back, and was completely useless for about a week. Two years later everything works but the menu button.
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Jun 26, 2013 18:01
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Try idling it with the heater running, or parking in a sunny place all day, windows up with a few cups of rice or some other hygroscopic stuff all over. Probably cant make it worse and it will absorb some of the moisture.
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Jun 26, 2013 18:38
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Try idling it with the heater running, or parking in a sunny place all day, windows up with a few cups of rice or some other hygroscopic stuff all over. Probably cant make it worse and it will absorb some of the moisture. Not heater; use the defroster. The defrost setting uses the ac to dry the air. Eliminates the need for rice.
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Jun 26, 2013 19:12
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Godholio posted:Not on the sedan. I installed some SVT springs and there wasn't anything particularly hassling. It may have been my spring compressors I used, but I couldn't get them in there without them interfering with the surrounding suspension. Edit: it was only the rear passenger side that didn't want to go in, but that side had been hosed up in a previous accident. Sockington fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jun 26, 2013 |
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Jun 26, 2013 19:26
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Geirskogul posted:Not heater; use the defroster. The defrost setting uses the ac to dry the air. Eliminates the need for rice. Max AC/recirculate and the fan on high would be the fastest way to do it unless you have a regular portable house dehumidifier you can throw in there on an extension cord.
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Jun 26, 2013 19:44
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Definitely going to run it with max defroster after work for awhile, also going to sprinkle baking soda on the carpet and later vacuum it up. Carpet is still a bit damp, will also leave a cup of rice in the cup holder for a few weeks. Thank you for the tips/advice.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:15
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sinistarded posted:Definitely going to run it with max defroster after work for awhile, also going to sprinkle baking soda on the carpet and later vacuum it up. Carpet is still a bit damp, will also leave a cup of rice in the cup holder for a few weeks. Thank you for the tips/advice. Skip the baking soda and go find the biggest vacuum you can get your hands on. Probably one of those things that takes quarters at the DIY wash places. Your carpet padding is soaked, and it's unlikely to ever dry properly without pulling the seats and carpets, but you can at least try to get as much out as possible if you aren't going to pull it. I'm going to be that if you vacuum this/dehumidify/whatever that you'll still be able to feel wet carpet if you push down on it. If that's the amount of water you have there's just no really good way of getting that stuff out before it turns moldy other than pulling it.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:19
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Sockington posted:It may have been my spring compressors I used, but I couldn't get them in there without them interfering with the surrounding suspension. I had the same problem with the rear springs in one of my old mr2's. Could not for the life of me get the spring compressor on. Ended up breaking out the oxy/acetylene torch to cut the old ones in half to get them out. For reference, I was using this kind: 
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Jun 26, 2013 20:24
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joat mon posted:
I'm sorry, I certainly didn't mean to start an argument with my calling into question the body work quality. Like I said, I don't know much about race cars and what I do know is from a personal acquaintance who produces aftermarket CF panels and bodies for Porsche's and Audi's in Germany. In my (limited) experience, that kind of body work is done with molds. Making and shaping those molds can take months. It is very labor intensive. After that, quality parts are relatively easy to produce, but still expensive as it requires expensive fabrics and resins, resin delivery systems, and autoclaves. Someone mentioned a vacuum bagging setup, but the current state of the art is either pre-preg fabrics (cooled pre-impregnated sheets of fabric) or better yet, resin infusion (you hook up a vacuum line on one end and let it suck the resin through from the other side). If the shop had only a few days for the body work (and it's a one-off production) then obviously molds are not going to work. I looked up the shop before asking the question earlier, and it seems like a well-regarded custom shop. Which is exactly why I was astonished to see composites work like that on display.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:25
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With the wet Miata, would those large bags of silica gel for gun safes and such work to help? And wouldn't removing the stereo to dry it out help?
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Jun 26, 2013 20:51
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Wasabi the J posted:With the wet Miata, would those large bags of silica gel for gun safes and such work to help? And wouldn't removing the stereo to dry it out help? Silica gel packets will work good, I hoard the stuff when we get parts in at work for keeping things dry. One trick I've used to dry out wet electronics is wrap in a towel, place on top of your dryer and run a couple of cycles at high heat. Saved a couple laptops a phone and some misc stuff that way.
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Jun 26, 2013 21:01
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Sockington posted:It may have been my spring compressors I used, but I couldn't get them in there without them interfering with the surrounding suspension. Every time I've done MkI Focus rear springs I used a combination of compressors. The first one (can't recall the name, basically it's a claw with a long threaded rod that runs through it) to get the spring down, and then a regular set of MacPherson compressors to hold the spring down while you extract it.
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Jun 26, 2013 21:16
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Motronic posted:Skip the baking soda and go find the biggest vacuum you can get your hands on. Probably one of those things that takes quarters at the DIY wash places. Your carpet padding is soaked, and it's unlikely to ever dry properly without pulling the seats and carpets, but you can at least try to get as much out as possible if you aren't going to pull it. This. I made the same mistake as you did, sinistarded, and my car was left in a downpour that lasted a good 30 minutes. The only way to make everything dry properly is pulling it all out and letting it sun dry. Took a few hours; but I'd rather deal with a few hours work than a few months of moldy funky smell. There's not enough tree air fresheners in the world to cover that smell. Especially if you've ever had an animal in your car.
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Jun 26, 2013 21:38
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Devyl posted:This. I made the same mistake as you did, sinistarded, and my car was left in a downpour that lasted a good 30 minutes. The only way to make everything dry properly is pulling it all out and letting it sun dry. Took a few hours; but I'd rather deal with a few hours work than a few months of moldy funky smell. There's not enough tree air fresheners in the world to cover that smell. Especially if you've ever had an animal in your car. That is so true. I think the leaky hatch on the Niva has been like that for a long time. I got a nasty surprise when I realised this. The smell was terrible. It doesn't help that someone laid house carpet and underlay in it.
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Jun 26, 2013 22:30
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sharkytm posted:Sanding carbon fiber is way worse, and more toxic. So the 3 years I spent cutting carbon fiber hockey sticks and sanding down the cut edges was not super great for me? Also re: Pikes Peak I think the fact that the whole road is paved now, it's going to be even more dangerous, the dirt served to keep people honest at the top. With the asphalt he race seems more "accessible" to normal people, and I'd imagine drivers will be pushing harder as well. D C fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 00:10
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D C posted:So the 3 years I spent cutting carbon fiber hockey sticks and sanding down the cut edges was not super great for me? The same goes for most nano-materials... Buckeyballs, nanotubes, etc... all horrible for you. Ditto with ceramics. I work with syntactic foam, and the dust is very nasty.
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Jun 27, 2013 00:19
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Beryllia ceramic is another nasty one. Be careful with any high tech ceramic product that is pink to purple in color.
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Jun 27, 2013 00:30
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Great. I built prosthetic limbs for three years. Between all the CF, resin fumes, and acetone getting on my skin all day it's going to be a race between my lungs and liver as far as where I get cancer first.
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Jun 27, 2013 02:11
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How'd you get into that field?
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Jun 27, 2013 02:15
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sharkytm posted:No. Seriously no. Nanomaterials aren't magically dangerous, they're just really small. Should you breathe large amounts of carbon fiber? No. Should you breathe large amounts of any particulate matter? Also no.
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Jun 27, 2013 02:29
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That's correct, but many ARE dangerous. In fact the smaller they are, the worse they are. Silica sand? It'll irritate your lungs, but it won't really cause a problem. Very finely crushed silica? Welcome to "having silicosis", population: you! Asbestos fibers, long? They'll cause damage but not that much. Short/crushed asbestos? You're probably hosed. Incredibly finely crushed asbestos, like the dust that came from the 9/11 attacks and resulted in accelerated (normal cases of asbestosis and mesothelioma take 10-50 years to occur, these cases were starting to show up in the first year or two) cases of asbestosis/similar diseases? Yeah, you're really hosed. Same goes for carbon fiber and fiberglass, I'm sure. The body really doesn't like insoluble fibrous/crystalline substances, especially ones that dig into your tissue and cause continuous irritation. Nanomaterials are therefore something to really worry about, because in general, the finer the particles are, the more damage they seem to cause.
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Jun 27, 2013 02:41
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Before we unfairly demonize carbon fiber any further: http://www.protechcomposites.com/pages/Working-With-Carbon-Fiber.html http://velonews.competitor.com/2011...ing-wear_162828 The stuff isn't magically deadly. Crystalline silica, asbestos, and anything containing beryllium, sure, but not carbon fiber. If you huff CF dust though you'll get COPD though. But that goes for any dust.
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Jun 27, 2013 06:28
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This reminds me of the lumbermill I worked at right after graduating from high school. Their answer to technically/morally needing a respirator for the guy running a sandblaster wasn't to actually buy a respirator; it was to hire some tooth-optional middle school dropout to do so uncomplainingly because he was likely unaware of the health risks, but mostly because they paid him the princely sum of $9.50/hr (in 2002.)
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Jun 27, 2013 07:52
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Captain Postal posted:But you've never worked with CF, have you? I actually haven't no, my Uni has just finished building an autoclave for next year's Formula Student car but I leave tomorrow. 
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Jun 27, 2013 07:55
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What happens when suspension springs give way:
ViolaTer fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 11:28
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kastein posted:
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Jun 27, 2013 14:26
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jammyozzy posted:I actually haven't no, my Uni has just finished building an autoclave for next year's Formula Student car but I leave tomorrow. If you can, offer to do the lay-up of the pre-preg, and let the other schmucks in your group do the handling/sanding. We have a couple of autoclaves for UAV work, and the take-away is that we always build in GF unless we really need to use CF
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Jun 27, 2013 15:41
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MadScientistWorking posted:Was it the asbestos to blame because lord knows finely crushed dust composed of multiple toxic chemicals can't possibly be healthy under any conditions? That certainly didn't help either.
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Jun 27, 2013 15:53
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Motronic posted:Skip the baking soda and go find the biggest vacuum you can get your hands on. Probably one of those things that takes quarters at the DIY wash places. Your carpet padding is soaked, and it's unlikely to ever dry properly without pulling the seats and carpets, but you can at least try to get as much out as possible if you aren't going to pull it. Yep, definitely want to pull the carpet padding. An a/c drain line in my Volvo decided to come out of the hole leading under the car and piss all over the underside of my passenger footwell, which puddled up in the rear. And when I say puddled up in the rear I mean once I had the passenger seat out and the carpets/padding up there was a literal puddle of water sloshing around in the back. The only way to deal with it was to remove the carpets entirely to let them dry out in the sun and bail out all of the water. It got moldy really quickly, too, so had I not pulled the carpets it could have gotten really bad. I'm just happy they were laid in place with only a few clips holding them in, no glue at all between the foam padding and the metal of the car.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:28
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Delivery guy that drops by my house regularly wrecked his impreza last week.he gave me a call to help him out so I dropped by his house.   I offered to replace his subframe if he got the parts, but he insisted we try pulling it out.  CSB Frame jerking at your service. Pulled on it for about half an got it within 1/4" but I just couldnt get a good bite on the subframe anymore, and I was practically pulling the car. E: I love my wireless winch. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 04:25
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the poi posted:The stuff isn't magically deadly. Crystalline silica, asbestos, and anything containing beryllium, sure, but not carbon fiber. If you huff CF dust though you'll get COPD though. But that goes for any dust. Actually you'd get ILD, or inflammatory lung disease. Both are bad but there aren't any real great treatments for ILD besides longterm steroid therapy.
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Jun 28, 2013 06:07
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Sorry it took me a while to respond, butmuike posted:How'd you get into that field? Funny enough, one of the techs I wound up working with happened to be a bar buddy of my mom's ex-boyfriend's roommate. I got the contact info on a bar coaster. It normally requires an AAS degree but the nearest school for it was on the other side of the state, and they were having trouble finding people, so... It was actually a really fascinating job but I just wasn't going to be upwardly mobile in the field. Still kinda miss it. And it had its share of horrible mechanical failures, too. One developmentally disabled 400-lb. guy kept breaking his carbon-fiber leg braces by snapping the stainless uprights during temper tantrums. I also once asked how often the air compressor (a 50-gallon or so Ingersoll Rand) got drained. The other tech (who had been at that office 6 years) said, "I don't know, I've never done it." Gulp. I drained something like 10 Gallons of rusty water out of it.  e:I was constantly grinding CF shells to shape and would wear nothing but stockinette over my face. So this stuff was definitely getting pulverized to dust. Never actually had any breathing problems but my skin would itch like a motherfucker for the rest of the day. I'm sure the adhesives and resins were way more hazardous. Farmdizzle fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 08:35
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