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MOCA seems cool, that would work since we have a cable outlet. Is there a good online tutorial on how to set one up that you can recommend? EDIT: I've been checking it out a little bit, do you have to install anything outside of the house or in the network box? Or can it just be a simple "connect-to-cable-modem-and-then-router-upstairs" joint? Can it all be so simple? Please? Thanks for all the help as well. Wonderllama fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 16:31
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Be aware that the moca kit is like $110 and then you'd still want a cheapish wireless unit on the other end of the house since y'all are using laptops. That said, setting up the moca part of it is easy - plug one unit into the coax near your router, plug it into a LAN port on the router. Plug in the other unit to coax wherever you want to set up your access point in the house for optimal wireless signal, then plug it into the WAN port of your new wireless unit. On the new wireless unit, you'll want to turn off DHCP/NAT since your original router will be handling all the actual routing duties, you can think of the new unit as a sort of wireless switch (in the early days of wireless they made units that performed only this function, called wireless access points). Just set it to the same SSID and security settings as your first router and your machines should be able to seamlessly switch to whichever has a better signal. edit: it is that simple! The moca devices just find each other. You might want to install a filter outside the house so your moca signal doesn't escape into the neighborhood, but it's not always required, and I found out when I went out to my cable box to install one the cableco had actually put one out there when I started service as some of their services are moca based if you use their boxes. edit2: my house is like 1/3 the sqft of yours and 2.4ghz 802.11n still has trouble making is all the way the house and upstairs, I can't believe you can get a signal on the opposite side of your house at all. Maybe because you live in the middle of nowhere. Dogen fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 16:38
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Badass. filter is no problem as the nearest house is 20 or so acres away and we live in a gated property. gonna order this today. Thanks a ton
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Jul 1, 2013 16:43
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Wonderllama posted:Badass. filter is no problem as the nearest house is 20 or so acres away and we live in a gated property. Just want to chime in on this. I went the moca route 2 weeks ago, and it's been great!  You'll like it.
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Jul 1, 2013 17:20
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Well, metal eats wireless signals, so the more wires/pipes/metal that happens to be in the way are going to gently caress up your signal. My parents' house is fairly big and was built a bit over 10 years ago and it's a loving nightmare for wireless. WDS is always going to be somewhat unreliable, I know because I had that set up for them on WRT54Gs for ages (WDS also requires WEP encryption which is just about as bad as plaintext). Powerline kits made all the difference, with hardwired wifi hotspots at each location. It doesn't get anywhere near 500mbps as claimed but it's been reliable, not flaky, and plenty fast. I'd have looked more seriosly at it if it wasn't twice as expensive. What kinds of speeds do you get over MOCA? I got my trendnet powerline kit for $50 on sale. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 18:48
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WDS can use WPA and WPA2 now if the router supports it (PSK only, but that's what most home use is anyhow). It's a pretty stable 100mbps, so fast ethernet. Supposedly the standard goes to 270 but I don't see anything that actually does that since there is so little equipment out there.
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Jul 1, 2013 18:52
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movax posted:Still a no go, maybe something is really weird with that HID device. So I figured it out...used Chrome devtools to find out that the device a ton of JavaScript weirdness, and at the very first page it strips out the port number from the URL, leading to errors "Origin is not allowed by Access-Control-Allow-Origin". If I forward the default port (i.e. port 80 to 80) everything works fine. Looks like it's time to learn some JavaScript  to override this.
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Jul 2, 2013 19:16
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movax posted:So I figured it out...used Chrome devtools to find out that the device a ton of JavaScript weirdness, and at the very first page it strips out the port number from the URL, leading to errors "Origin is not allowed by Access-Control-Allow-Origin". If I forward the default port (i.e. port 80 to 80) everything works fine. Ugh, i"m glad you were able to find that. What a stupid error/design decision.
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Jul 3, 2013 01:53
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Anyone have recommendations for a good cable modem? I have a Linksys CM100 (DOCSIS 2.0); it works fine at my current apartment, but I will be moving soon and comcast has told me that they will not start up service with that modem at my new apartment, because it is out of date/End-of-life.
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Jul 3, 2013 03:20
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Centurion posted:Anyone have recommendations for a good cable modem? I have a Linksys CM100 (DOCSIS 2.0); it works fine at my current apartment, but I will be moving soon and comcast has told me that they will not start up service with that modem at my new apartment, because it is out of date/End-of-life. I would suggest something in the Motorola Surfboard 61xx series (6120/6121/6141). Go here for the official list of modems that Comcast will accept. Note that you will need a DOCSIS 3.0 capable modem to get any speed tier above 20 megabits down, or somewhere around there. I know it's an absolute requirement for the 50+ megabit tiers. Newegg has the 6121 on sale for about $70 and the 6141 for $90 right now.
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Jul 3, 2013 04:49
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CuddleChunks posted:Ugh, i"m glad you were able to find that. What a stupid error/design decision. I'm doing it kind of clunkily right now; Winbox is secure, so I open that up, enable the port forward real quick (on port 80  ), make my changes, and then close the forward.
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Jul 3, 2013 16:00
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Centurion posted:Anyone have recommendations for a good cable modem? I have a Linksys CM100 (DOCSIS 2.0); it works fine at my current apartment, but I will be moving soon and comcast has told me that they will not start up service with that modem at my new apartment, because it is out of date/End-of-life. I got a 6141 last month (on a local cableco to get out of their rental fee) and I've been quite pleased with it. The cableco modem was working fine so no difference there, but the motorola definitely is physically a nicer design and also doesn't seem to get scaldingly hot.
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Jul 3, 2013 17:11
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I think it's time for an upgrade - but I wanted to ask here first before dropping $150 (or more?) on a new router. I've got a BUFFALO WHR-HP-G54. I got it 4 years ago, slapped Tomato on it, and haven't had to touch it since. Rock-loving-solid. However, it's only G, which I think means it's a bit slow. Never really noticed as most stuff that mattered was hardwired. Now - we've decided to cut cable TV and switch to streaming only - and it seems my poor Buffalo is having trouble keeping up. I live in a small 1 bedroom apartment (NYC) with masonry walls (i.e., not drywall). It's basically a large rectangle with a kitchen and a bathroom separating the router (in the living room) from the bedroom. That means the signal is effectively pushing through 3 masonry walls to get to the bedroom. We recently picked up a Roku for streaming in the bedroom and I don't think it's getting a consistent signal. It will say "Excellent signal" - and then drop connection or buffer a few seconds later. One solution I've thought of would be to relocate the router so it has direct line of sight to the bedroom (via the hallway). However, that doesn't really work with the layout I've got and I would have cables running everywhere across the apartment so I'm trying to avoid that. Would upgrading to an N or AC router help? Specifically I'm thinking of the ASUS RT-N66U (or it's more expensive AC brother ASUS RT-AC66U). My thought is that it's probably time to upgrade anyway but I don't want to spend the money if it won't solve my problem. Also - do I jump on AC now? Or do I just stick with the N (knowing that I don't plan to upgrade again for another 4-5 years if I can avoid it).
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Jul 3, 2013 18:21
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It's not so much a protocol problem as it is a signal strength problem. Getting a newer router with better antenna design might help with that, but honestly 3 masonry walls is asking a lot. Getting AC equipment doesn't do anything for you unless you have AC clients. Since you said you cut the cable, I assume you have coax outlets where the router is and where the roku is now? Consider sticking with your old router and adding moca to your setup, perhaps?
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Jul 3, 2013 18:57
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Dogen posted:It's not so much a protocol problem as it is a signal strength problem. Getting a newer router with better antenna design might help with that, but honestly 3 masonry walls is asking a lot. Getting AC equipment doesn't do anything for you unless you have AC clients. What if I got a new router and used the Buffalo as a repeater?
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Jul 3, 2013 19:23
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Lowness 72 posted:What if I got a new router and used the Buffalo as a repeater? That would likely work, and it would save you from buying a switch, if you wanted to hard wire more than one device in the bedroom.
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Jul 3, 2013 19:29
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Lowness 72 posted:What if I got a new router and used the Buffalo as a repeater? You could do that, but using it as a repeater cuts bandwidth in half. Which might be ok if you can get a strong connection.
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Jul 3, 2013 19:38
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I have an Intel DG33FB motherboard that came in a blue intel box, manufactured by intel. It's had awesome driver support, from Win98-2000-XP-Vista-7-Server 2008R2, it is a good board, it will run on drat near anything. It has onboard gig-e using an intel chip. I am set, this thing has drivers for everything from BSD to Netware 6.5 to linux to almost any flavor of Windows. I wanted to try out Windows 8 "drive pool" functionality. So I get Windows 8 Pro so I can RDC in to the machine, since it will live under the stairs where I can't hear it/don't have to look at it. I got it to work, after much gnashing of teeth, to power from 'off' or 'S5' when sending a magic packet. Then my refurb hard drive died (after 30 days  ) and have no way to recover the data and drivers. So I know it can be done in Win8, but there is technically no official win8 drivers.This is my network setup on my new, non-refurb drive. See that blank line at the bottom of the box?  This is what it is supposed to look like  Those bottom three options are missing. Probably because I am using a generic network package for Win8 and not the fancy schmancy official win7 64 bit drivers. Here is the power management settings in case you care  So, Windows 8 will happy use Windows 7 drivers, or even Windows Vista drivers if you fudge the INF file and/or enable "Test Mode" so you can run unsigned drivers, since they all share the same driver model. I forced a Vista 64 bit netgear wireless driver to run in Win7 this way before link The problem I am running in to is that intel doesn't distribute the network drivers independent of their fancy setup utility, and the Windows 7 64 bit driver install .exe won't fully run in Windows 8. And my other machine does not have an intel eithernet card. As soon as it runs it recognizes it is running on the wrong OS and quits. Without installing Windows 7 on my other machine, is there a way to get the driver out of the .exe? I feel like I'm making this way harder than it should be. I found this thread that looks like it's possible to extract inf/sys files using a -a flag and/or just slurp them from the temp file folder, but are these inf/sys files the "drivers" I need? intel discussion posted:Extract drivers as sys/inf files from infinst_autol.exe executable? Is this going to work, or is there an easier way to put intel win7 drivers on my win8 machine? Can I just force WOL to work via some registry setting? The card supports it. And now it is showing link active when the machine shuts down... so long as there is a keyboard plugged in 
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 09:31
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Are people still using HOSTS files to block ads? I remember there used to be one I used with a ton of entries for all the different ad networks and stuff, but I wasn't sure if people still used them, and if so, what site are you getting updated lists from? Sick of getting popups or poo poo ads.
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Jul 7, 2013 01:22
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Not since there's about a million better ways to do it now. What browser are you using that doesn't have an adblock extension or the like?
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Jul 7, 2013 03:10
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Ok, sorry if this is a stupid question, but I've tried to research this on my own and while I think I've figured out how to do this, my grasp of dual-band wireless-n is pretty shaky and I'd like to run this by the thread before I horribly gently caress everything up. The situation: I have an E2500 with Tomato on it. The 2.4GHz radio is presenting a -g network named foo; the 5GHz radio is presenting an -n network named foo-n. I also have an old WRT54G that is not currently being used for anything but could be deployed as a -g access point. I can't drop -g support because some devices in the house don't understand -n. There's two things I'd like to change about this. First, I'd like -n clients to be able to use both bands. Second, I'd like to have a single network named foo, with -n clients automatically selecting the -n version and everything else picking up the -g version. I think I can do this like so: - configure the E2500 to use -n and the same SSID on both radios. I would assume that clients would use both bands (if they support simultaneous dual-band) or whichever band is faster (if not). - hook up the WRT54G and configure it as a wireless access point, -g only, using the same SSID. -g clients will of course only see this network and not the -n version. The bit I'm unclear on is (a) how -g/n clients will react to having both -g and -n networks on the same SSID - will they reliably prefer the -n one, or is this likely to confuse some devices? and (b) if running two networks with the same SSID on both frequency bands is the right way to do dual-band -n.
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Jul 7, 2013 15:13
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Here's what you do Setup the thing you have right now to have the same SSID for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz and have all your N devices connect to that. If the clients are dual band, they'll pick the one with the signal strength that allows the highest data rate (they'll start to prefer 2.4ghz as you get further away). Your g devices will connect to the 2.4ghz n network unless you specifically make it n-only (no legacy support).
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Jul 7, 2013 15:34
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Fly posted:Something that might be good in the OP is a mention that the Asus RT-N16 has only 32kB of usable NVRAM. That's a problem if you want to use VPN features because you may run out of NVRAM space for the keys. You might want to look at some of Asus's recently released firmwares, my rt-n66u came with 32kb NVRAM but I flashed Merlin's custom firmware and bumped the NVRAM to 64kb. I seem to remember Asus shortly thereafter started releasing 64kb firmwares for their device's. Not sure about the RT N16 as far as Asus firmware, but Merlin's or Shibby,s firmware's on the n16 are 64kb I'm pretty sure.
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Jul 7, 2013 16:06
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Dogen posted:Not since there's about a million better ways to do it now. What browser are you using that doesn't have an adblock extension or the like? Normally Safari or Chrome - but browser add-ons and extensions always seem to act up at the dumbest times.
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Jul 7, 2013 19:03
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Have you tried adblock (not adblock plus)? That's pretty much the recommended one for chrome around here, and I've used it on safari as well.
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Jul 7, 2013 19:56
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Dogen posted:Have you tried adblock (not adblock plus)? That's pretty much the recommended one for chrome around here, and I've used it on safari as well. No, I will give it a whirl.
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Jul 7, 2013 20:23
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I can't recall if you're one of the folks that's taking Mavericks for a spin, Bob. Just know that extensions are completely broken in Safari 7 due to the new threading model.
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Jul 7, 2013 21:13
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potentiometer posted:You might want to look at some of Asus's recently released firmwares, my rt-n66u came with 32kb NVRAM but I flashed Merlin's custom firmware and bumped the NVRAM to 64kb. I seem to remember Asus shortly thereafter started releasing 64kb firmwares for their device's. I'll look around again. I've been running Shibby's builds, and they do not do anything to try to use mor than 32kB. The limit is in the CFE rather than the regular firmware, and every mention I've seen of the RT-N16 is that it seems quite a risky thing to do, so no one has released anything.
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Jul 7, 2013 22:48
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Can anyone explain what the deal is with the NVRAM and CFE on the N66U? I see it referenced here and there (including on the DD-WRT wiki) but without any explanations. What is CFE? Why is 32k not enough NVRAM and why is it only a software change to get it to 64k? So far my N66U seems a little buggy (web interface becoming unavailable, mysterious 802.1x failures, etc) and I'm thinking I should try a new firmware.
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Jul 7, 2013 23:22
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Fly posted:I'll look around again. I've been running Shibby's builds, and they do not do anything to try to use mor than 32kB. The limit is in the CFE rather than the regular firmware, and every mention I've seen of the RT-N16 is that it seems quite a risky thing to do, so no one has released anything. Check out Merlin's build, forum here for his stuff. http://forums.smallnetbuilder.com/forumdisplay.php?f=42
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Jul 8, 2013 00:29
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potentiometer posted:Check out Merlin's build, forum here for his stuff. From what I can see, the 32kB to 64kB work-around applies only to the RT-N66U and not the RT-N16. edit: See the first post by RMerlin: quote:06-16-2013, 01:20 PM Fly fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 03:33
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I'm looking to replace a really lovely WRT160N wireless router (it doesn't even allow for custom firmware) but I'm a bit hurting for money so it's been on the backburner for a while now. I did see that this router is $25 after a mail in rebate and a promo code (EMCXNXL62) so I'm considering picking that up since it's so cheap. Is it also a lovely router or is it a decent enough step up to pick up at that price?
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Jul 9, 2013 16:11
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flatluigi posted:I'm looking to replace a really lovely WRT160N wireless router (it doesn't even allow for custom firmware) but I'm a bit hurting for money so it's been on the backburner for a while now. I did see that this router is $25 after a mail in rebate and a promo code (EMCXNXL62) so I'm considering picking that up since it's so cheap. Is it also a lovely router or is it a decent enough step up to pick up at that price? A quick glance leads me to quite a few reviews like this on there: code:
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Jul 10, 2013 01:18
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I have a desktop in an apartment and I am curious as to why I keep seeing people's phone's under my Network tab in Windows 8? I don't have bluetooth on this computer, and the wifi is locked down. How the hell am I seeing their phones? I can't do anything to them, they just show the name of the phone and the make/model
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Jul 10, 2013 15:29
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I have an Asus RT-N16 wireless router. I am running the stock firmware on the router. I would like to be able to RDP into my computer while I am at work. I can set that up no problem using the port forwarding tools on the router but there is no way to restrict the connection to only specific IP addresses (like my work IP). Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking about upgrading to a Asus RT-66U but looking at the manual it looks like it has the same issue.
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Jul 10, 2013 16:51
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Rent posted:I have a desktop in an apartment and I am curious as to why I keep seeing people's phone's under my Network tab in Windows 8? I don't have bluetooth on this computer, and the wifi is locked down. How the hell am I seeing their phones? I can't do anything to them, they just show the name of the phone and the make/model They're probably acting as a wifi hotspot so you're just seeing them as you would see any wireless network. Assuming you are seeing them in the 'connect to a network' screen. Wiggly posted:I have an Asus RT-N16 wireless router. I am running the stock firmware on the router. I would like to be able to RDP into my computer while I am at work. I can set that up no problem using the port forwarding tools on the router but there is no way to restrict the connection to only specific IP addresses (like my work IP). Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking about upgrading to a Asus RT-66U but looking at the manual it looks like it has the same issue. Setup windows firewall for the RDP port to only allow connections from the IP address you want. Dogen fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jul 10, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 17:12
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Dogen posted:
Duh on me. I always just did this at the firewall but this makes sense too! Thanks.
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Jul 10, 2013 17:39
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Guys im so loving stupid its not even funny! I was spending forever trying to figure out why my BIND dns server wasn't working. As it turns out, it was set to only receive DNS requests from the localhost  I was up so late last night trying everything. I didn't even think to check that until reviewing the config files versus a working system for the millionth time.
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Jul 10, 2013 23:02
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Ninja Rope posted:Is there any benefit to 802.11ac routers if your clients aren't 802.11ac? The op says "it's best to wait until you have a device which can use these before purchasing" but does that imply there's no benefit until the client is updated too? I rarely upgrade anything and it will be years before I have even one client that does 802.11ac, but if there's a benefit to the AP doing 802.11ac (beamforming poo poo into low orbit?) maybe it's worth it? Just on this there is a recent press release from Netgear R6100 which is an 802.11ac router for $99. Yes, you still need ac compatible device but if you want to be an 802.11ac alpha tester it's now a lot cheaper. http://www.netgear.com/about/press-releases/2013/07022013_R6100.aspx If I can muster up the free time I'll revise the op. I have a new employee now and I might have a chance if I'm not filming or working on pre-production at weekends.
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Jul 11, 2013 07:53
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Just got a Asus RT-AC66U to replace my crusty old WRT54GL running DD-WRT. Quite a bit disappointed with it at the moment though... 5Ghz is fine, but the 2.4Ghz has horrible speeds. My old WRT54GL would do 12-15Mbps with a 802.11g device all day long. The Asus seems to max out at 6-8Mbps no matter if its a B, G, or even a N device! The Asus is set to the same channel the 54GL was. The 2.4Ghz band in my area is not particularly crowded... There is at least 1 other AP on each of the non-overlapping channels, but it didn't seem to bother the WRT54GL. So far I have tried both the Asus beta and Merlin firmwares. Tried every channel, etc..
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Jul 11, 2013 14:30
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