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An 02 -might- still have window issues. So if a window just decides to drop into the door you know you need to get new regulators. Other than that, the TDI will easily outlive the rest of that car. Double check the mileage that a timing belt is due at. 93k is barely broken in on that generation of TDI.
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Jun 25, 2013 14:35
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Thanks for the help. One question; are they generally this cheap?
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Jun 25, 2013 15:32
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I wouldn't really call 7500 "cheap" for an 11 year old car. Although TDIs do carry a premium.
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Jun 25, 2013 20:18
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Here are a couple buyer's guides that I found helpful: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/buyersguide.htm http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=75359
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Jun 25, 2013 21:02
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Automatic transmissions on TDI's aren't the most reliable, and I think on some of the cars the timing belt interval is lower on the automatic than the stick. If you can drive a 5-speed I'd recommend getting one.
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Jun 25, 2013 21:05
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It's me... back again with terrible probably expensive VW Jetta problems... I have a 2002 Jetta V6, 212,000 miles... I have had a ton of problems with this car but I just can't seem to get rid of it... I drove it pretty hard earlier this week... 200 miles rested 6 hours 200 miles rested 2 hours 200 miles rested 5 hours 200 miles rested over night I got up the next morning and driving to work, just 5 miles out, probably going 50 mph the engine just totally shut off on me. I pull to the side and stop. This has happened before, but not for a couple of years. When it did this in the past I was always able to start it back up and get to where I needed to go to get it looked at... usually oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, problems etc. Well this time it wouldn't start so I had to get it towed to my garage. They looked at it and said they think it is a timing issue which they can't fix because it's too VW specific. So I know that's pretty vague but anyone have any guesses? The Blue Book trade in on this car is $1271... I'm guessing I'm looking at more than that in repairs. In some internet research I'm finding CAM sensor and ignition coil problems.
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Jun 28, 2013 19:13
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Could someone shed some light on the best oil/weight for me to buy and where to buy it? I can find no definitive sources on what is recommended, just a bunch of hearsay from various forums. For reference, the car is a 2004 Audi TT 3.2 V6. (NA), and is being driven in Wisconsin, so temps ranging from -10F to 90F.
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Jun 29, 2013 21:48
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Full Circle posted:Could someone shed some light on the best oil/weight for me to buy and where to buy it? I can find no definitive sources on what is recommended, just a bunch of hearsay from various forums. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2237991-For-the-FAQ-VW-Audi-502.00-and-505.01-Approved-Oils-Moved Also check out blauparts.com. Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jun 30, 2013 |
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Jun 30, 2013 03:49
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Prefect Six posted:http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2237991-For-the-FAQ-VW-Audi-502.00-and-505.01-Approved-Oils-Moved Perfect, thanks. Looks like Wal-mart's mobile 1 0w40 is within the VAG 502.00 spec.
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Jun 30, 2013 15:39
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Full Circle posted:Perfect, thanks. Looks like Wal-mart's mobile 1 0w40 is within the VAG 502.00 spec. That's what I've been using for the longest time. The bottle even says European car formula on it. Also advance auto and AutoZone both started carrying the proper cartridge filter refill. Now I can finally do an oil change without having to mail order anything.
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Jun 30, 2013 18:57
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It's a German car so I figure I should put German oil in it.
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Jul 1, 2013 01:27
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Quick question: On the 1986 Audi 400 Quattro, at the master cylinder, there is something in the brake below it being fed from two ports on the master cylinder, and it then send brake pressure to the combined rear brakes. What the hell is it, and how can I get a replacement?
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Jul 1, 2013 04:21
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I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2008 pre-facelift A6 3.0TDI Quattro with the Tiptronic gearbox. Is there anything specific I need to look out for or be aware of?
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Jul 2, 2013 19:01
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First off, forgive me, I know absolutely nothing about how a car works, which is why I'm asking this here. I'm considering buying an Audi A4 B6 Multitronic (2004 model, note that I probably won't be buying that particular car but that's the model I'm looking at) in a few months, but I've heard a lot of disconcerting things about the CVT gearbox in these models being prone to breaking, and being very expensive to repair. Has anyone had experience with these cars? I'm just wondering whether the complaining about the CVT is bias or if there is actually something to it.
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Jul 3, 2013 04:53
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LegatusP posted:First off, forgive me, I know absolutely nothing about how a car works, which is why I'm asking this here. You want to steer clear of Audi's early CVT offerings. There are like 6+ TSBs on them. I heard talk of a class action lawsuit awhile back.
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Jul 3, 2013 05:01
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I paid $800 to have my 2010 GTI's high pressure AC line replaced and my R134 refilled at the dealership because I couldn't afford to be without a car too long and my work schedule is ridiculous. Do I even want to know how badly I got hosed?
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Jul 3, 2013 05:15
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Bovril Delight posted:You want to steer clear of Audi's early CVT offerings. There are like 6+ TSBs on them. I heard talk of a class action lawsuit awhile back. Here's the settlement website: https://cvtsettlement.com/
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Jul 3, 2013 05:22
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Bovril Delight posted:You want to steer clear of Audi's early CVT offerings. There are like 6+ TSBs on them. I heard talk of a class action lawsuit awhile back. Hm. From what I've been reading, these problems show up around the 30000km/60000km mark. Since my budget is <$15000, I'd be going for something with at least 100k km on the clock to keep prices down. If I'm getting a slightly more used car, shouldn't the problems have already manifested and been fixed in the past?
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Jul 3, 2013 06:14
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over in Europe for vacation, saw my first scirroco in the flesh. drat that's a good-looking car.
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Jul 3, 2013 07:28
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Residency Evil posted:I paid $800 to have my 2010 GTI's high pressure AC line replaced and my R134 refilled at the dealership because I couldn't afford to be without a car too long and my work schedule is ridiculous. Well, a vac and fill is worth about $150, maybe 200 depending on where you are. So exactly what line was this and how big was it? And did they even replace the receiver/dryer? (yea, I'm basically saying you probably got hosed for at least $400)
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Jul 3, 2013 07:35
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LegatusP posted:Hm. From what I've been reading, these problems show up around the 30000km/60000km mark. Since my budget is <$15000, I'd be going for something with at least 100k km on the clock to keep prices down. If I'm getting a slightly more used car, shouldn't the problems have already manifested and been fixed in the past? Not really, no. This is a bad idea. There is a class action lawsuit on this transmission. Maybe you luck out or maybe you get a replaced transmission and it shits the bed too.
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Jul 3, 2013 13:37
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Instructions to change the oil on my '01 TT Quattro say to remove the oil filter before opening the drain plug. Is this right? Will it make a big mess from not having the oil drained first? Is there any reason I can't take the plug out and drain first? I guess there's no problem draining the oil out and then filling, I don't need to to a simultaneous drain/fill? These are probably dumb questions, maybe should have prefaced with that fact.
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Jul 3, 2013 16:22
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 Spotted in San Francisco right by where I work. Fantastic looking little car - wish we were still getting the hatch here.
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Jul 3, 2013 16:42
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:
The A3 hatch is slated to come back as a 2015 with no sedan model if I remember correctly.
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Jul 5, 2013 02:55
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I think the only hatch A3 that's coming is the plug-in, and that's a five door. The regular A3 and S3 are coming as sedans only (as stated by Audi this spring.)
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Jul 5, 2013 06:45
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Guys, I have the 1.8 TSI motor with probably the problematic chain/tensioner combo and I'm hearing the rattles, but never with a cold engine - always when either it's super hot outside or the engine has been run for a while and I start it after a longer drive. Everything I read about the rattle states that it only happens during a cold start, but not in my case... Opinions, help anyone? Should I replace it anyway?
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Jul 5, 2013 14:46
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I am hoping this is the correct thread for my question. I am looking into buying a new 2013 Beetle and am just looking for some opinions on it as far as gas and just general info. I am trying to convince my husband that the turbo is the way to go with it seeing as I have a long commute and from what I've read that engine gets a bit better gas mileage. Any thoughts or opinions on it would be greatly appreciated.
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Jul 6, 2013 15:41
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SlaveToTheGrinds posted:I am hoping this is the correct thread for my question. I am looking into buying a new 2013 Beetle and am just looking for some opinions on it as far as gas and just general info. I am trying to convince my husband that the turbo is the way to go with it seeing as I have a long commute and from what I've read that engine gets a bit better gas mileage. Any thoughts or opinions on it would be greatly appreciated. The reliability is still nothing to be proud of and relative fuel economy between the models is pretty simply and accurately compared by their published city/highway/combined MPG. Not that you'll necessarily achieve those numbers, but they are a very valid comparison (hint: the turbo is not more fuel efficient, but it's so close and they are both so inefficient as to not really matter). In general they aren't well regarded cars around these parts.
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Jul 6, 2013 17:14
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CommieGIR posted:Quick question: I found out what it was: Brake Pressure Proportioning Valuve
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Jul 7, 2013 02:58
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SlaveToTheGrinds posted:I am hoping this is the correct thread for my question. I am looking into buying a new 2013 Beetle and am just looking for some opinions on it as far as gas and just general info. I am trying to convince my husband that the turbo is the way to go with it seeing as I have a long commute and from what I've read that engine gets a bit better gas mileage. Any thoughts or opinions on it would be greatly appreciated. If you're looking for good mileage and are already considering turbo money, I'd give the TDI a test drive.
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Jul 7, 2013 03:06
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Got the oil changed on my 01 TT quattro and man was it a pain in the rear end. I've never really worked on my own cars and it took me several hours just to figure out how to get the oil filter out. It's super tight so you have to push some piping out of the way. It didn't help that I bought the OE 'large cartridge' filter thinking that would help for the extended maintenance cycle, but boy was I dumb. Had to run to Autozone and pick up a Bosch filter to finish the job. Luckily the local specialty garage is willing to swap my large for a normal. In the end I got it done and learned some stuff, so that's good.
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Jul 7, 2013 04:05
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This week I installed a replacement auxiliary radiator fan on a 2.5L 2007 Jetta because Germans hate cooling systems, for some strange reason I'll never understand.  From what I've read, the auxiliary fan failure is pretty common and a well-known failure, but my wife brought up a good point - the larger fan had to work overtime to compensate for the smaller fan being dead for the last two months or more, so wouldn't that place more strain on the large fan and cause it to fail somewhere down the line, as well? Has anyone with a similar Mk5 Jetta experienced issues with the bigger of the two radiator fans?
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Jul 7, 2013 19:57
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Cenodoxus posted:This week I installed a replacement auxiliary radiator fan on a 2.5L 2007 Jetta because Germans hate cooling systems, for some strange reason I'll never understand. I don't know when they changed it, but on the Mk 3 the fans are actually driven by a single motor and a belt drives the other fan linked to the fan with the motor
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Jul 7, 2013 21:06
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Motronic posted:The reliability is still nothing to be proud of and relative fuel economy between the models is pretty simply and accurately compared by their published city/highway/combined MPG. Not that you'll necessarily achieve those numbers, but they are a very valid comparison (hint: the turbo is not more fuel efficient, but it's so close and they are both so inefficient as to not really matter). My 1.8t always got better than EPA numbers. What are you citing that says VW turbos aren't efficient? Why are you looking at the Beetle? Do you ever need to put more than 2 people -and- stuff in the car? If so look into the Golf instead. The beetle is a tiny rear end car inside. Also, get the TDI. e: holy poo poo the 2.5 only gets 27mpg and the 2.0 only gets 30? The gently caress VW? I regularly got 35+ in my 1.8t. Also, the 2.5 is slow as ballsssssssssss. http://web.vw.com/vwcompare/detail/beetlec/#34339%7C34181 veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 15:06
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veedubfreak posted:My 1.8t always got better than EPA numbers. What are you citing that says VW turbos aren't efficient? I'm citing the numbers published by Volkswagen for the 2013 Beetle that say the turbo model gets fewer MPG than the NA model.
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Jul 8, 2013 16:48
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Motronic posted:I'm citing the numbers published by Volkswagen for the 2013 Beetle that say the turbo model gets fewer MPG than the NA model. Ah I spotted the difference. The 2.5na is only 170hp/177trq while the 2.0t is 200/207. They get 31 and 30 mpg, so mpg vs power the turbo is actually more efficient than the NA as it should be. It was just a matter of how you were looking at it vs how I was looking at it. Also, have this chart, then go buy the TDI golf  http://web.vw.com/vwcompare/detail/beetlec/#34339%7C34181%7C34333%7C34336 Working remotely from a WIC clinic is the best form of birth control ever. I don't get how parents can literally just ignore their kid crying louder than my car stereo can even get. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 18:04
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After like 8000 miles or something both of my GTIs, the 2010 and 2012 one got better mileage. Thinking about getting APR flashed again at waterfest cause I miss it. Having the 93 octane tune makes it even better when I am putting that gas in there anyway.
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Jul 9, 2013 02:53
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All me to relate my latest Audi experience. My allroad was listed as having "new air suspension" when I purchased it. This was not correct. Last week, while driving, I noticed the suspension light on the dash and the level LEDs on the dash would flash, the car would be sagging in the front when sitting for more than a few minutes, and I hear a whistling noise coming from the front passenger side air spring. I pull the wheels off, soapy water test the airbags and find a huge leak in the bottom edge of the passenger airbag. I start Googling, hit up Audizine, and all the regular forums, and I ended up purchasing an Arnott GenI airbag. Only 285, not as bad as I thought. I'll install it later this week when it arrives. In the meantime, I'm worried it'll burn out the compressor, so I pull the compressor fuse out (which is almost impossible to find, I ended up finding a scan of the Bentley manual that explains it). But when the bags completely empty the car drove like it was going to bounce off the road. I'm not sure if this is dangerous or not, but I know a lot of people drive with broken coils, that'd basically be the same thing, I guess. But it's felt really dangerous, so I put the fuse back in. I find online a lot of people just squirt a bottle of green slime into the bag, and it seals the leak for a couple months. Figure I have nothing to lose, so I go ahead and do that. Sealed the leak completely, not a single bubble in the follow up soapy water test. Funny thing is that I start off hearing the leak, but after a few seconds, I start to see the green slime seeping through the fabric itself not at the seams, but through the weaving of the fabric. I suppose it's so old and brittle the fabric is just leaking on its own. Overnight and after driving work the bag is completely fine. Some people were concerned the fluid could seep up the line back into the compressor or solenoid, but on all my searches I found about thirty people that fixed it with the slime, but no one that actually had it ruin the compressor. In the front, the air connection is up top, so the fluid would have to travel upwards, against the airflow of the line back to the rear of the car, so it doesn't seem likely. Either way, I'm going to replace it this weekend. Anyone want to buy an 2004 allroad with only 78k miles on it? I've replaced everything, so nothing will need to be fixed for a while.
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Jul 15, 2013 15:56
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I need to replace the double-DIN head unit on my mother's 2002 B5.5 Passat as it's throwing the 'Error 1' code when attempting to play a CD and nothing appears to fix this. Can anyone recommend a good source for a replacement OEM part? ECS Tuning is the only place I've found so far that has the part in stock (I believe it's 1JM035157PX) and decent company reviews.
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Jul 15, 2013 21:11
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Probably a simple question, but I'm going nuts with it. Last night, I bought a 2013 VW Golf with the Convenience and Sunroof packages. Means it has the Premium 8 stereo. While on the test drive, I absolutely swear I was able to navigate my iPhone (MDI) via the steering wheel -- it replaced the "Now Playing" in the instrument panel with the list and let me select the artist, album and song. I was stopped when doing this, and I think the salesman might've hit a button to bring it up. Driving around, however, I cannot seem to trigger this. I know they did at least a few changes while I was signing paperwork (turned off daytime running lights, for instance), so it this a case where they changed a setting? The manual is no help - the Premium 8 manual doesn't mention anything whatsoever about steering wheel controls, and the Owner's manual doesn't go into audio systems that I can find. Googling is giving me nothing -- All the results I'm finding are about browsing it on Bluetooth or on a pre-Mk6. So can anyone confirm for me: 1) If I hallucinated this on the test drive 2) How to access it, if it exists
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Jul 16, 2013 16:53
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