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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Yeah, you can repair the knife, potentially, got a pic of the chip? Yes, yes, it can be repaired as long as it is not ridiculous! A coworker of mine had a boning knife that looked like a can opener and I was able to put a new edge on it and it looked good as new, albeit a touch thinner. You have to use a stone under 200 grit to get serious repair work like that done. I was nervous the first time I went to repair one of my knives, but once I did, it turned out exceptionally well. If you aren't that well versed in sharpening, shoot me a PM and we can work something out. As far as knife handles go, your best bet is to hit up a Sur la Table, as they will actually let you cut things with the knives in the store. You can hold a knife in Williams & Sonoma, but you can't cut anything with it. If you work in the industry, ask a coworker to let you cut up an onion with one of theirs. I greatly prefer wa-style (Japanese Style) handles to Western, but it isn't a crippling defect. Really I just can't do Henckels, Wusthof, Global, or Chroma. If you really want a Chinese Cleaver, go to chefknivestogo.com and get a CCK. I had one before a drunk friend decided it was his birthday and he needed to hack up his old couch with it. Then people decided to hide it from him, and they hid it too well, and we never found it again, which I wasn't too angry about because they are so inexpensive! Unless that happens, a CCK will last you drat near forever, but if you just want something to break down birds, check out the honesuki by Tojiro that I posted earlier!
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Jul 9, 2013 02:02
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 This is my knife  Although looking at it I guess I over exaggerated it's ruined-ness, it still looks bad to me.
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Jul 9, 2013 03:42
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What the gently caress how does that happen? Also is that on the spine? If so, my uninformed opinion is that it's a cosmetic problem rather than a functionality problem.
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Jul 9, 2013 05:32
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Invisible Ted posted:What the gently caress how does that happen? I don't know what the hell he did, and no, that's the blade. Spine I wouldn't care.
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Jul 9, 2013 06:57
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The Azn Sensation posted:
lol, that looks pretty horrible. do let us know if you're able to fix it. I was able to repair a knife that had a notch about the size of the smallest one you have, but I dunno about that giant one. what happened?
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Jul 9, 2013 06:57
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mindphlux posted:lol, that looks pretty horrible. do let us know if you're able to fix it. I was able to repair a knife that had a notch about the size of the smallest one you have, but I dunno about that giant one. what happened? I dunno! I pulled it out and boom, there it was, all that way. I confronted roommate about it and he just shrugged and said he didn't know. He left a month later, but the chunks will be forever. Being that I have zero experience sharpening knives other than honing a few of the German ones with the rod, I dunno how I'll get it fixed.
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Jul 9, 2013 09:45
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your roommate is a complete dickbag. seriously. I'd try to find somewhere around you that does knife sharpening services (cooks warehouse around the SE), and see if they'll try their hand at repairing it. man I'd kill a roommate if they did some poo poo like that to my knives.
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Jul 9, 2013 10:00
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That's a super easy fix if you've got a low grit stone, if not you can look for knife shops around you and take it in. Probably a $20 job.
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Jul 9, 2013 10:46
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It'd be much more worth your time to have the edge professionally reground, fixing that with a low-grit stone would probably take...too long.
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Jul 9, 2013 14:38
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Invisible Ted posted:It'd be much more worth your time to have the edge professionally reground, fixing that with a low-grit stone would probably take...too long. I've done something similar with a Shun, but it was just one big chip instead of that nonsense. It took a solid 15 minutes on a 120 grit, and you have to grind the entire knife down, which I wouldn't recommend you try to handle on your own if you've never sharpened before. I'd take it to a shop, it would probably be the least expensive solution.
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Jul 9, 2013 15:50
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Invisible Ted posted:What the gently caress how does that happen? Not sure if it's what the roommate did, but I know you can do that by trying to cut frozen rock-solid meat with a knife.
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Jul 9, 2013 17:45
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Your two options are either grinding down the blade or just leaving the chip and letting it gradually come out as you sharpen. Both options are annoying with chips that size. Grinding it out will significantly alter the height or profile of the knife, especially since it's nowhere close to the tip. This would also be a lovely job without a belt sander, so I'd probably pay someone to do it if that is your decision. Your ex-roommate is a dick.
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Jul 9, 2013 18:07
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Lots of peoples posted:Roommate is dick, go to shop. Okay, so nifty knife shop and pay someone to grind that down, I am definitely am not going to touch that on my own, not having the tools, or knowledge, or confidence I won't have sliced finger everywhere. Are there any questions or red flags I should ask/look for when looking for a knife shop around my area for regrinding this? The last thing I'd want is for me to alter the shape of my knife, fork over cash, and have it be lovely because of a bad job or something.
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Jul 9, 2013 18:39
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Just did a few passes on a balsa strop with chromium oxide 0.3 micron and then on 0.1 micron iron oxide compounds and I take back anything disparaging I said about stropping in the product thread.
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Jul 9, 2013 19:05
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GrAviTy84 posted:Just did a few passes on a balsa strop with chromium oxide 0.3 micron and then on 0.1 micron iron oxide compounds and I take back anything disparaging I said about stropping in the product thread. Let me guess, you typed this post with one hand because you cut one of your fingers off?
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Jul 9, 2013 20:25
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The Midniter posted:Let me guess, you typed this post with one hand because you cut one of your fingers off? haha no, but I have had a knife accident that nearly did cut off one of my fingers. It was years ago and I was using sabatiers back then, had I been using the knives I have now, I probably would have cut off my pinky. No, I just went to slice up a tomato from the garden. Super ripe, soft, the kind that would just gush all over the place with most knives. It was sliced super thin and kept itself together really easily and with little more than just the weight of the knife. Edit: general sharpening content. For those who want to get into stropping this is a useful chart for converting abrasive compounds which are usually measured in microns (particle size) into stone/sandpaper grit: http://www.idrockman.com/Documents/Grit-Mesh-MicronConversionChart.pdf GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 20:33
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I have a japanese water stone with I believe 2k and 6k grit (not at home or else I'd check). I like it a lot but I'm not 100% sure if I'm using it optimally. What would be the best way to know if I am? Obviously the knife is getting sharpened but I've never experienced "OH GOD IT TOUCHED ME AND MY ARM IS OFF" sharp. I have an 8" Wusthof. gobboboy fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 22:14
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gobboboy posted:I have a japanese water stone with I believe 2k and 6k grit (not at home or else I'd check). I like it a lot but I'm not 100% sure if I'm using it optimally. What would be the best way to know if I am? depends on a lot of things, what kind of angle you're putting on it being the strongest one. Thinning the edge can help a lot, too, though I don't know how well a Wusthof would take to edge thinning. Also 2k and 6k are pretty high and very high grit respectively. 6k is generally a finishing grit for most people who generally only strop or polish on it. 2k is still quite higher than the majority of home cooks will go. You might want to look into getting something in the 800-1k range for more "cut" (how fast steel is removed from the blade). or even in the 500 range if you find yourself removing a lot of nicks.
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Jul 9, 2013 22:34
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I feel anything above a 2k grit is kind of a waste on German steel due to how soft they are, but that's just personal speculation.
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Jul 9, 2013 23:00
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I'd like to purchase a ~8" Japanese Chef's Knife that's left-handed. My budget is around $100, what should I look into? I've gone through the thread and there's one thing that's clear - there seems to be dozens of Japanese knife manufacturers and everybody seems to have their own personal preference.
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Jul 10, 2013 04:58
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Tojiro DP 240mm gyuto. Best $100 knife you're going to find, unless you want to get into non-stainless.
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Jul 10, 2013 05:16
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If I want a round or octagonal handled knife, what's the recommendation under $300?
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Jul 10, 2013 05:51
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Chemmy posted:If I want a round or octagonal handled knife, what's the recommendation under $300? gyuto? Stainless or carbon or exotic?
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Jul 10, 2013 05:54
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Gyuto I suppose. I'm using an 8" chef's knife now, probably would like something longer, don't care about material it'll hardly be the fussiest thing I own.
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Jul 10, 2013 05:55
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Tojiro DP 240mm gyuto. Best $100 knife you're going to find, unless you want to get into non-stainless. There are a few JCK specials that are in the 100ish range and VG-10 too. My JCK Gekko fit and finish was very nice.
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Jul 10, 2013 05:56
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Chemmy posted:Gyuto I suppose. I'm using an 8" chef's knife now, probably would like something longer, don't care about material it'll hardly be the fussiest thing I own. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/kowh2wa27.html It comes in 240mm as well. I've never used it, but it's one that I've seen come up a lot on other sites when this question comes up so I guess I'm just making you aware of it.
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Jul 10, 2013 13:35
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Chemmy posted:Gyuto I suppose. I'm using an 8" chef's knife now, probably would like something longer, don't care about material it'll hardly be the fussiest thing I own. The Kono No Wave listed would be great. If you don't like the light handle, you can usually ask and they'll get you an ebony handled one, which is so boss. These would be good options if you'd rather go stainless: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/ko24wa.html http://www.chefknivestogo.com/kohhstfugy24.html breakfall87 fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jul 10, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 16:00
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you ate my cat posted:I have an Edge Pro that I got from my dad when he decided he'd never use it. Honestly, it's pretty solid. I can't seem to keep a consistent angle with a stone to save my life, so that part is nice. Would never have bought one for myself, they're crazy expensive. Suprising to read the angle marks are way off, I thought that was just an issue with the cheap chinense ebay ones. Oh well, even more reason to buy the faker and use the savings to buy an angle cube I guess. ma i married a tuna posted:I have something like this, and while it works it has problems. Most notably the notches on the adjusting rod are WAY off: what the manual says is 20 degrees is in fact 38 degrees, leading to a 76-degree inclusive angle on your knife. That's like cutting something with the corner of a building. You need to use a protractor to actually get the angle you want, and you can't do really acute angles like under 17 or so because of the way it's built. Yeah, one thing worth buying is a digital protractor like the igaging 'anglecube' The edgepro/faux is marked with the top blue mark as 35 deg(I think, could be 30 or 40 deg) for pocket knives, 2nd mark down in yellow as 20 deg for kitchen knives, next mark down is green (15 or 18 deg?), last mark down in red (15 or 10 deg?). All I remember is the yellow 20 deg as that's all I cared about initially and I can't find the manual right now. Using the angle cube, 18 deg is actually mid way between the green and red. I got the angle cube from this guy on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140636422546 seller/username thetaylormk if you want to look them up on ebay USA. Edit: Now I re-read what I posted, you guys might be able to get the 'Angle Cube' cheaper or with free postage from Amazon. I had to go with the seller I mentioned from ebay because the Amazon seller of the "Angle Cube" wouldn't ship to Australia. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jul 10, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 16:31
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Tojiro DP 240mm gyuto. Best $100 knife you're going to find, unless you want to get into non-stainless. I'm not seeing anywhere where it says it's for left handed people.
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Jul 10, 2013 17:37
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Someone mentioned the company Messermeister as a German maker. I can't find anything about this company at all here in Germany. Are they export-only or something?
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Jul 10, 2013 17:41
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Bag of Sun Chips posted:I'm not seeing anywhere where it says it's for left handed people. It's a 50/50 bevel with a symmetrical handle, it works just as well for lefties as it does for righties. Unless you actually want a D handled asymmetric bevel knife, that is.
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Jul 10, 2013 17:42
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Boner Slam posted:Someone mentioned the company Messermeister as a German maker. I can't find anything about this company at all here in Germany. Are they export-only or something? Could be, though they sell them in Australia as well as the US, so to me they should be available even in a small market, even if that small market is their own country if they aren't popular domestically. From what I read, standard German steel (X50CrMoV15), same as Wustof, Felix etc, but very good fit and finish. It could be a smaller cutlery/hunting knife manufacturer that did some kitchen knives? Could be such a brand that rebadged another's german kitchen knife brand for overseas kitchen knife sales for export only as you say? Messermeister in German means "knife master", so it's going to hard to get results in a search engine in German I guess. And maybe they can't trade under that name in Germany as that name would would be hard to trademark? Late edit: Searching on this page: http://www.messermeister.com/dealer-locator/ Very much an American and Australian dealer supply only it looks like. Very strange. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jul 10, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 18:13
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Bag of Sun Chips posted:I'm not seeing anywhere where it says it's for left handed people. GrAviTy84 posted:It's a 50/50 bevel with a symmetrical handle, it works just as well for lefties as it does for righties. Unless you actually want a D handled asymmetric bevel knife, that is.
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Jul 10, 2013 18:49
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No Wave posted:Basically, just to further explain, there are generally two factors that will make a knife left or right-handed - having an asymetrical handle (a D-handle, for instance, where the round part goes in your palm and the flat part faces away from it), or having a blade where the bevels are asymmetrical, ie, one side of the blade is sharpened more acutely than the other. In the case of most knives, neither of these cases are true, meaning they are appropriate for both left and right handed individuals. Kind of "the problem" as it were of left hand products, as I'm sure sunchips is aware of, is that they tend to be pricier than their right hand equivalents. This is kind of problematic sort of, as most entry level Japanese knives are ~100bux and this implies that their LH equvalents will be at least 25bux over that which put's him over budget if he is indeed looking for a LH specific knife. That said Fujiwara FKH (SK4, Carbon) and FKM (moly/vana Stainless) are both 70/30 so they come in LH versions probably ~100bux. They are ambidextrous handled though. Same with the JCK Kagayaki Basic (VG-1). Though, honestly, I would go with the Tojiro DP and VG10 given these options unless you really really want something carbon or have a thing for 70/30 for whatever reason. I can't find anything that is D handled and left handed this side of mid 200s or so.
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Jul 10, 2013 20:43
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Chemmy posted:Gyuto I suppose. I'm using an 8" chef's knife now, probably would like something longer, don't care about material it'll hardly be the fussiest thing I own. Konosuke as mentioned. You can probably have something custom made from Moritaka if you know for serious what specific blade dimensions you like, too. And if you want to spend just a bit more than 300, I think Takedas are about that much. Edit: seriously look at this beastly fucker  http://www.chefknivestogo.com/tagyas24.html 
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Jul 10, 2013 20:45
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Do any of you knife knerds have advice on cutting boards? I've been using some thing synthetic mats because they were 4 for $5 but I'm thinking of getting a nicer one.
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Jul 10, 2013 22:51
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http://www.theboardsmith.com/
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Jul 10, 2013 22:53
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GrAviTy84 posted:Edit: seriously look at this beastly fucker I love my Takeda, it is so monstrous! If, like me, you don't want it so tall, the Sasanoha model is more of the traditional Sabatier profile! I posted it earlier in the thread somewhere!
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Jul 10, 2013 23:35
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Incredibly annoying that Google's being so coy, but how much do these run? I bought the Cook's Illustrated recommended proteak before this thread was made so I'm set but I'm curiouus. EDIT: I got it before I started 'sperging but apparently teak can dull knives a little. I mean, it's more a theoretical thing than anything people have routinely empirically observed, but I'd avoid teak if you're buying a new cutting board just because you can. I'm probably going to hold onto mine for a while though, because a cutting board isn't one of those things that's easy to re-sell. No Wave fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 00:17
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The Moon Monster posted:Do any of you knife knerds have advice on cutting boards? I've been using some thing synthetic mats because they were 4 for $5 but I'm thinking of getting a nicer one. http://www.amazon.com/San-Jamar-CBG...words=san+jamar Under 20bux, and I use these daily at work, so I can attest to the high quality.
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Jul 11, 2013 01:27
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