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wormil posted:Those tube lathes are unpopular, I've never used one but people claim the tube flexes and they vibrate a good bit. Also the price is about 2X what it's worth. They're a few hours away, but I guess I could take a weekend and get one E: I found a Unimat just across the border, not sure which model. Seems likely it's a metal lathe, but that just allows me to get more precise. I've sent a message asking particulars and price. There're also some kinda dingy lathes a bit south of me, like a 50's Gil-Bilt which was apparently sold as a kit through Popular Mechanics TopherCStone fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Jul 25, 2013 |
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Jul 25, 2013 12:42
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I'm a Harbor Freight kind of shopper, having lived in apartments. I didn't use tools often enough to justify buying anything but the very cheapest, with a handful of exceptions (a decent drill, socket set, screwdriver set). It's time to buy some jack stands, but I don't want to go with Harbor Freight for something that could kill me. I also don't want to spend $200 on a set like the gearheads who do car stuff as a hobby. I want something that will be a good value for my needs, which is holding one of my two small hatchbacks up for the occasional brake job or transmission fluid change. What should I be looking for? What strength rating should I buy? Any brands to avoid? Any bargains to be had on the internet?
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Jul 25, 2013 19:11
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canyoneer posted:I'm a Harbor Freight kind of shopper, having lived in apartments. I didn't use tools often enough to justify buying anything but the very cheapest, with a handful of exceptions (a decent drill, socket set, screwdriver set).
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Jul 25, 2013 20:46
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thegasman2000 posted:Sounds like an air leak somewhere. Does it have an air filter somewhere ? Sorry I know bikes and cars not harden equipment Yes, it does. It's clean as can be and still operates the same whether or not I have it attached. I don't think it could be an air leak, I gave the carb and its mounting block all new gaskets. iForge posted:There used to be a thread in Automotive Insanity but I can't find it so it may be gone. Is this the thread you were thinking of? edit: the CI guys referred me to that thread too kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 25, 2013 |
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Jul 25, 2013 21:36
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canyoneer posted:I'm a Harbor Freight kind of shopper, having lived in apartments. I didn't use tools often enough to justify buying anything but the very cheapest, with a handful of exceptions (a decent drill, socket set, screwdriver set). Going to have to second just getting HF jack stands, that's what I use. I'm pretty certain most people in AI use HF jack stands too. It's really hard to mess up something as simple as a jack stand.
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Jul 26, 2013 02:51
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OK. I'll probably just get the HF jack stands. I was only concerned because a lot of internet nerds were whining about weld quality 2/10 would not bang.
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Jul 26, 2013 17:10
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canyoneer posted:OK. I'll probably just get the HF jack stands. I was only concerned because a lot of internet nerds were whining about weld quality 2/10 would not bang. They're virtually indistinguishable from my other set of Autozone jack stands. Don't worry about them.
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Jul 26, 2013 20:57
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canyoneer posted:OK. I'll probably just get the HF jack stands. I was only concerned because a lot of internet nerds were whining about weld quality 2/10 would not bang. Welds failed on mine after a year or two. They may have changed the design on them since then though, that was probably a decade ago. The Craftsman Professional ones I replaced them with have functioned perfectly ever since.
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Jul 27, 2013 00:13
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I recently got into welding and as a first from scratch project want to make a work bench for my stuff. I have looked at the price or angle and box steel and wondered what tools I need to cut this and sheet metal? I have an angle grinder of a decent blade will fit. Also I keep bong asked what I want for gifts and really need a new cordless drill. I have looked at the Stanley fat boy but the driver and hammer seem to take different batteries so I don't see a need to stick to one manufacturer. I have no cordless tools at all at the moment but am fed up of cheap lovely b and q drills. What should I buy?
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Jul 27, 2013 06:13
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To cut steel, in order of expense: - hacksaw with appropriate blade - angle grinder - sawzall, jigsaw or other power saw with appropriate blade - acetylene cutting torch - plasma cutter - water-jet or laser If you already have an angle grinder, just get a cutoff wheel suitable for steel and go nuts. I have Makita cordless tools and they're just lovely. Not super cheap, but great quality.
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Jul 27, 2013 06:17
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I will get some cutting discs and have a play. What sort of thickness of mild steel will a normal corded grinder cut? 2mm? I like the makitas and my uncle owns a tooL hire business so discounts potentially. Anyone got experience if the sanders and other non drill cordless tools? Worth having?
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Jul 27, 2013 10:53
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thegasman2000 posted:I will get some cutting discs and have a play. What sort of thickness of mild steel will a normal corded grinder cut? 2mm? A corded grinder with a cut-off wheel and patience will cut anything the wheel can reach. I've gone through a 42mm thick steel truck axle most recently. Takes a while and you don't get a photogenic, clean cut but a good part of that is just user error. When I take time I can get a pretty nice looking edge from the cutting wheel.
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Jul 27, 2013 15:21
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thegasman2000 posted:I will get some cutting discs and have a play. What sort of thickness of mild steel will a normal corded grinder cut? 2mm? If you're going to be doing straight cuts rather than flat grinding, make sure you get a cut-off guard for your grinder. At that point, you can more or less use it like a circular saw, and not have to worry so much about throwing sparks all over your garage as an added bonus. And as Uncle Enzo said, if you're willing to put the time in (and wear down a couple cutoff blades) there's not much an angle grinder can't get through. They're just about the most brute force power tool you'll ever use.
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Jul 27, 2013 16:07
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You can get metal cutting blades for your chop saw and circular saw, too. They're often the right tool for the job, depending on what the job is, and only cost a couple bucks. Much easier to make a nice straight cut.
grover fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jul 27, 2013 |
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Jul 27, 2013 16:37
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Oh, and if you haven't used an angle grinder to cut metal before: beware! The workpiece will get HOT AS poo poo. Keep some water around to cool it down and don't touch it right after grinding.
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Jul 27, 2013 18:34
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thegasman2000 posted:I will get some cutting discs and have a play. What sort of thickness of mild steel will a normal corded grinder cut? 2mm? There is lots of cordless talk if you read back a few pages. Personally I'm a milwaukee fan because their variety of tools beats most others. Ryobi is good on a budget and has unique yard tools. Makita, Bosch, DeWalt are all great but you're not going to find some of the tools I list below in these brands. Non drill cordless tools? This is what I've got: Dremel (M12) Oscillating Multi Tool (M12, makes a good small finish sander) Wet Dry Vac (M18, actually my most used cordless) Sawzall/Hackzall (M18 Sawzall) Inspection Camera (M12, probably my least used tool) Fan, Hedge Trimmer, Weed Wacker (Ryobi 18V) I'm looking to pick up the hard to find ryobi trim router too. Except the inspection camera, which obviously has uses, they're all worth having in my opinion.
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Jul 28, 2013 00:15
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asdf32 posted:Oscillating Multi Tool (M12, makes a good small finish sander) Oscillating tools are very niche in their uses, but I swear they are the absolute most perfect tool in the world for those uses. I used one a couple months ago to make plunge cuts on some baseboards to install some slightly wider return grilles in place while the baseboards were still on the wall.
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Jul 28, 2013 02:35
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Thanks for the info. My contact can get me makita Hilti and Milwaukee at trade so will see what the prices turn out to be. He did say that Hilti is eye wart wrongly expensive though. How bad is it my angle grinder got kissed wet through in a thunderstorm last night? Spins pretty fast and I don't fancy it exploding hot poo poo all over me!
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Jul 28, 2013 06:17
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Bought an M12 hammer drill on Ebay (used but in new condition). Defective! drat thing won't spin to full RPM in forward, oscillates between RPMs. Works normally in reverse though. Worse it sometimes stops working completely. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6jyShAPz6w (Fortunately seller is refunding)
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Jul 28, 2013 18:35
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kid sinister posted:Oscillating tools are very niche in their uses, but I swear they are the absolute most perfect tool in the world for those uses. I used one a couple months ago to make plunge cuts on some baseboards to install some slightly wider return grilles in place while the baseboards were still on the wall. Yeah nothing else can plunge cut like that. I use it most often as a sander. Having it hanging on the pegboard to quickly round off a corner is pretty nice. And I've used it for baseboards too and it's perfect adding an outlet in a wall. Like you say, nothing can plunge cut like that. I think between those (and other) uses it's not niche overall. Like a dremel it I think it should be pretty high on a homeowner/DIYers list. I say this because I was pretty slow to pick up on the utility of both these tools. That said my experience with the blades has been pretty bad. They barely last more than one job sometimes. I thought it was probably me but then I saw some tool review magazine conclude the same thing with the exception of a handful of brands of blades that last longer (I think Bosch was among them). dwoloz posted:Bought an M12 hammer drill on Ebay (used but in new condition). Defective! drat thing won't spin to full RPM in forward, oscillates between RPMs. Works normally in reverse though. Worse it sometimes stops working completely. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6jyShAPz6w (Fortunately seller is refunding) Personally I'd take that as a sign to get the new M12 Fuel Hammer drill...
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Jul 28, 2013 18:59
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dwoloz posted:Bought an M12 hammer drill on Ebay (used but in new condition). Defective! drat thing won't spin to full RPM in forward, oscillates between RPMs. Works normally in reverse though. Worse it sometimes stops working completely. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6jyShAPz6w (Fortunately seller is refunding) There's a short in the switch somewhere, for sure. It's good he's refunding it, though.
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Jul 31, 2013 03:28
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Sagebrush posted:To cut steel, in order of expense: What, no love for throatless shears and nibblers? <  >A well-maintained Beverly B-3 will cut 10-gauge stainless sheet like a pair of (table-mounted) scissors. More expensive (around a grand) than acetylene but still a lot cheaper than plasma. Also, arc welders. 
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Aug 2, 2013 03:15
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So I bought a C-clamp at an estate sale today. Not a hundred percent sure how I'll use it, but you can never have too many clamps. It works like a charm. 8$
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Aug 8, 2013 23:01
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Just a heads up on a good deal. I was in Home Depot today and on the endcaps behind the tool section, they had some things on clearance. One of them was the DEWALT DCK211S2 12-Volt Max Drill/Driver / Impact Driver Combo Kit on clearance for $124. The kit also came with a free third battery. Pretty good deal as the drill kit is $150 by itself. I picked one up for use around the house.
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Aug 12, 2013 03:34
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Been reading about how awesome The Works is at removing rust so I decided to pay $1 and find out. Let me say... it Works. Bunch of rusty, bent nails I've kept for god knows what reason. Before and 5 hours later. It also removed the zinc from a new screw. Makes nasty fumes though. 
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Aug 17, 2013 21:05
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wormil posted:Bunch of rusty, bent nails I've kept for god knows what reason. I think we found the reason. If you hadn't kept them, this science would not have been done! The world would be a lesser place. 
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Aug 17, 2013 22:05
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Bad Munki posted:I think we found the reason. If you hadn't kept them, this science would not have been done! The world would be a lesser place. I would liked to have tested something rustier but I've already de-rusted most everything else in my shop including a jar full of old bolts that I soaked in vinegar for a week. I'm sure that soon enough I'll drag something nice and rusty home.
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Aug 18, 2013 00:46
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rotor posted:i need a cordless framing nailer. for completeness, i purchased the paslode and it seems ok so far
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Aug 18, 2013 06:32
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now taking recommendations on cordless circular saws. I'm building a couple little cabins out in the woods and i really like not having to run the generator constantly just to run a saw for 30 seconds every 15 minutes.
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Aug 26, 2013 04:14
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Whatever Makita makes (cause Makita is the best), or if you can't afford Makita then whatever your brand of lithium-ion cordless tools makes. If you don't have lithium ion cordless tools get in the future already
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Aug 26, 2013 04:26
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the cordless tools i have now are all 12v a bunch of people on amazon are complaining that there's a class-action suit against makita for some shennannigans vis-a-vis their 18v batteries. are they just whiners?
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Aug 26, 2013 04:32
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whoa there's 36v cordless tools?!? http://www.amazon.com/Bare-Tool-Bosch-1671B-36-Volt-Circular/dp/B001541HR0/ edit: 170 for a battery!? pass rotor fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 04:33
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rotor posted:whoa there's 36v cordless tools?!? DeWalt has 36v too; our plant had some 36v impacts to shut drum lids. They were pretty theft-proof because, gently caress, who has 36v tools and chargers and batteries? Heavy motherfuckers too
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Aug 26, 2013 04:39
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rotor posted:now taking recommendations on cordless circular saws. I'm building a couple little cabins out in the woods and i really like not having to run the generator constantly just to run a saw for 30 seconds every 15 minutes. Just cross Porter Cable off your list, their cordless throws all it's chips right at your face. The corded saw is awesome though.
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Aug 26, 2013 05:03
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rotor posted:the cordless tools i have now are all 12v Beats me. I've got the 18v Makita ones, bought refurbished even, and I've had zero problems. I rebuilt an entire motorcycle engine with a single charge on the impact driver. Until I upgraded I had a 12v Makita ni-cad, and it also worked perfectly for like a decade (eventually the battery life got really short but what do you expect after that long?) It would be awesome if people could standardize on a single battery pack design, since they universally all just have 5 x 18650 cells inside and all that's different is the plug and *maybe* the charging logic. But no chance in hell of that. Anyway I like Makita a lot. I think the top brands are probably [Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt]? Can't put them in order, just pick what you want, but I like Makita's green the best. Then maybe [Ridgid, Ryobi, Porter Cable, Hitachi], etc. Dunno.
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Aug 26, 2013 05:29
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wormil posted:Just cross Porter Cable off your list, their cordless throws all it's chips right at your face. The corded saw is awesome though. thanks for saying this, i was just looking at PC for the cheaper option does anyone know anything about the 36v tools? I'm looking at the bosch and at 220 for the tool plus 170 for the battery and 70 for the charger it's 450ish the 18v version is 150 for the tool, 100 for the battery+charger which makes it about $200 less than 36v version and, well, im wondering if it's worth the two hundred.
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Aug 26, 2013 05:29
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rotor posted:the 18v version is 150 for the tool, 100 for the battery+charger which makes it about $200 less than 36v version and, well, im wondering if it's worth the two hundred. You may be able to get a better deal by buying a pack, actually. When I needed a new drill the drill + battery + charger was about $265, but the same drill + impact driver + two batteries + charger was $285. I looked into it very deeply and couldn't find any difference between the drills, not even a slightly different model number that would suggest a cheapened version or something. And the drill's worked just great. So no idea why they do that but it worked for me.
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Aug 26, 2013 05:31
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welp, bought the 18v version and two fat batteries for the rotor fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 05:53
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rotor posted:welp, bought the 18v version and two fat batteries for the You'll be happy with that. 12V and 18V are where the action is and you'll have a lot more tool choices in the future. I haven't seen any of the manufacturers putting much effort into >18V (dewalt 20V is 18V). Now that you have batteries start looking at tool-only tools on ebay to add to your collection. Also, you'll like the cordless circular. I've got milwaukee and it's great. Honestly cordless everything is great.
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Aug 27, 2013 03:22
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TopherCStone posted:They're a few hours away, but I guess I could take a weekend and get one unimats are tiny. if you're in the market for a tiny little wood lathe, the taig lathe is around ~250 sans 1/4hp motor, $100 more with one: http://taigtools.com/mlathe.html should be fine for pens & pipe handles and stuff like that there
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Aug 27, 2013 07:29
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