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Ranma posted:Those are spandex shorts from SA's very own Queen Elizatits and her Etsy shop, Sexism Is Over. The boulder is "The Fun Boulder", and it is! drat, if there's anything my friends and I enjoy as much as climbing trips it's acting afool and looking the part. I've seen her thread before but I can't believe I've never put 2 and 2 together. Looks like I'll have a sweet new climbing uniform in a short while...
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Jul 30, 2013 21:07
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Meh, I like V-grades. They put a finer point on the difficulty than any gym-specific grading system. You just have to keep in mind that they're very subjective, many people can disagree on a grade, and usually the steepness and holds can influence whether you're playing to your strengths or not, effecting how you feel about the grade.
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Jul 30, 2013 21:07
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In the UK we tend to get both the font grades and the american V system. One grade system I cannot make heads or tails of us is the american Yosemite system. But then again trying to explain the British trad grading system to an american is a lost cause I've noticed 
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Jul 30, 2013 23:01
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Meh, I like V-grades. They put a finer point on the difficulty than any gym-specific grading system. You just have to keep in mind that they're very subjective, many people can disagree on a grade, and usually the steepness and holds can influence whether you're playing to your strengths or not, effecting how you feel about the grade. Sometimes I get discouraged when I can't do a V1 when I'm doing V2s but then I get to a really obvious point where I realize it was set by someone a good six inches taller than me. 
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Jul 30, 2013 23:17
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Teeter posted:drat, if there's anything my friends and I enjoy as much as climbing trips it's acting afool and looking the part. I've seen her thread before but I can't believe I've never put 2 and 2 together. Looks like I'll have a sweet new climbing uniform in a short while... 
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Jul 31, 2013 03:55
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I love it when that happens. Being a tall and lanky git and continually staticing bits designed for dynoing I inspired a couple of akward angle dynos (including backwards) to specifically stop stetch bastard from just reaching over and avoiding the problem.
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Jul 31, 2013 11:47
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matryx posted:I love it when that happens. Being a tall and lanky git and continually staticing bits designed for dynoing I inspired a couple of akward angle dynos (including backwards) to specifically stop stetch bastard from just reaching over and avoiding the problem. Personally, I try to set a mix of problems so "lanky tall people" aren't always simply reaching and "winning." We have a reasonably tight cave-ish area and I set fairly compressed, tight balance problems that all the shorter people love, but the tall people hate. But I also always set a few that require strong reach and lock-offs. I try to avoid setting dynos as the area is a little small for anything crazy. They can be fun, but I'd hate to think that I can't get around a tall person's reach without resorting to awkward dynos.
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Jul 31, 2013 13:42
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Took my first lead fall tonight, followed by a few more on the same climb. First one was kinda dumb, overbalanced mantling onto a ledge just past the first bolt. Only a little fall, though still big compared to anything on top rope. The rest were after the last bolt, right before the anchor. I was getting pumped out, didn't think about the feet well enough. My grip gave out when I was trying to match hands onto an okish jug. Had trouble keeping my cool & thinking about what I was doing after the first fall - it was pretty big, ~4m at a guess? A bit freaky too as the fall ends pretty close over a big ledge. Had to get a stronger friend to finish & clean it in the end, I got too pumped/psyched out to complete it. It was fairly easy on top rope! Idiot Wind (5.10d in the american scale?)
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Jul 31, 2013 14:28
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gamera009 posted:Personally, I try to set a mix of problems so "lanky tall people" aren't always simply reaching and "winning." We have a reasonably tight cave-ish area and I set fairly compressed, tight balance problems that all the shorter people love, but the tall people hate. But I also always set a few that require strong reach and lock-offs. This is v good and I appreciate the extra effort. My favourite route I've attempted so far was a sideways traverse with really really low down sections. I had to crab that for sections and use terrible technique heelhooking other bits just to keep my legs up off the floor. Even started it with a fig-4 (which is my only legit use of one ever to date).
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Jul 31, 2013 17:22
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My shoes are synthetic. What's a good way to keep them from being stinky? I already air them out after climbing but that's starting to be insufficient.
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Jul 31, 2013 20:19
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:I'm assuming he's trying to get leaner for a better power to weight ratio, because that's the only way cardio will help. A combination, actually... less weight, more endurance on routes, but mainly just for better aerobic conditioning - I was huffing and puffing hiking over the saddle to the climbs, especially at 7000' elevation.
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Jul 31, 2013 21:58
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The best way (to me) I've seen bouldering grades compared to route grades is by how hard sequences in routes can be. For instance, in a 5.11a you could expect certain sequences up to roughly V2 in difficulty, etc.
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Aug 1, 2013 01:12
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I took my first fall in Garden of the Gods today. Nothing like having your SO on belay to build trust! 
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Aug 1, 2013 04:46
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Grisly Grotto posted:Had to get a stronger friend to finish & clean it in the end, I got too pumped/psyched out to complete it. I feel like that's one of my biggest obstacles to get over for leading outside - not only do I get tired faster because I REALLY want to feel safe and clipped in, but I also make poor clipping decisions, like reaching too far off a bad handhold to make a sketchy clip instead of staying calm and making two more moves to something rock solid that makes the clip easy. Did some mock lead in the gym tonight, and while it wasn't great in some aspects (I'd like to have more experience taking lead falls), it was really nice for helping me make better clipping position decisions. Sometimes it's good to make another move or three to clip, sometimes I have a bomber hold and great position and a long clip is a snatch.
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Aug 1, 2013 07:24
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idiotsavant posted:I feel like that's one of my biggest obstacles to get over for leading outside - not only do I get tired faster because I REALLY want to feel safe and clipped in, but I also make poor clipping decisions, like reaching too far off a bad handhold to make a sketchy clip instead of staying calm and making two more moves to something rock solid that makes the clip easy. Did some mock lead in the gym tonight, and while it wasn't great in some aspects (I'd like to have more experience taking lead falls), it was really nice for helping me make better clipping position decisions. Sometimes it's good to make another move or three to clip, sometimes I have a bomber hold and great position and a long clip is a snatch. To be honest it was probably a pretty dumb idea trying to lead it. All my other leading has been on easier stuff (5.9 or less) that hasn't really been close to my limit. Even though I am quite capable of doing it, some of the moves required more commitment than I was comfortable with I guess. I want to jump back on it on top rope & drill the last section where I had the falls then try it again on lead. It's messing with my head now that the adrenaline has worn off. Might have to wait a little while though as I hosed up my shoulder trying a stupid move in the gym last night, *sigh*. As far as clipping goes I find a good thing to keep in my head is that if you try to make a sketchy clip from down low & gently caress it up, the fall is going to be much worse as you'll have more rope out, so you're going to fall further past your last point of protection.
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Aug 2, 2013 10:01
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guppy posted:My shoes are synthetic. What's a good way to keep them from being stinky? I already air them out after climbing but that's starting to be insufficient. Wash them when they start to smell?
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Aug 2, 2013 10:34
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guppy posted:My shoes are synthetic. What's a good way to keep them from being stinky? I already air them out after climbing but that's starting to be insufficient. I spray mine with a little Lysol and put a dryer sheet in them every couple of uses, which holds off the smell for a while. You'll want to wash them eventually, though.
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Aug 2, 2013 11:10
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Tarnien posted:I spray mine with a little Lysol and put a dryer sheet in them every couple of uses, which holds off the smell for a while. You'll want to wash them eventually, though. I wear Evolvs. I manage the odor by shoving them in a pillow sack and washing them with towels. Cold/gentle cycle with mild detergent. Hang dry. Between washes I use the stuff for athlete's foot/jock itch (the spray). Keeps the odor minimal for a month or so between washings.
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Aug 2, 2013 16:38
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guppy posted:My shoes are synthetic. What's a good way to keep them from being stinky? I already air them out after climbing but that's starting to be insufficient. I don't know if you can get them in the US easily but boot bananas (http://www.bootbananas.com/) are supposed to be pretty good.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:43
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Cedar chips/inserts.
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Aug 2, 2013 20:10
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I'll probably get some of the Evolv bandits and I am quite worried about the smell  I have slept on portaledges with used Evolvs next to me, and of a choice between the poop tube and the Evolvs, I would throw the Evolvs off every time.
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Aug 3, 2013 09:45
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:I'll probably get some of the Evolv bandits and I am quite worried about the smell I had a pair of bandits and they got unbearable until I got some boot bananas, they fixed em right up in about a week and stopped the smell seeping out while they were in.
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Aug 3, 2013 20:07
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:I'll probably get some of the Evolv bandits and I am quite worried about the smell God, why? You know what you're getting into. There's plenty of shoes that are just as good or better and don't smell like a dead hobo's rear end in a top hat not even a week out of the box.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:18
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So after bouldering for a few months, my arms are getting stronger but my wrists still feel weak doing some moves that arn't just straight hanging or pulling. Is there anything I can do to help my wrists get stronger/more stable?
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Aug 3, 2013 22:45
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Claes Oldenburger posted:So after bouldering for a few months, my arms are getting stronger but my wrists still feel weak doing some moves that arn't just straight hanging or pulling. Is there anything I can do to help my wrists get stronger/more stable? Just keep climbing. They'll get stronger with time and at the same time you'll get more skilled at moving efficiently. Also, training for climbing is boring and you'll see limited to no gains at your level anyway. Unless you lose a ton of weight or something. Covert Ops Wizard fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Aug 3, 2013 |
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Aug 3, 2013 23:12
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Claes Oldenburger posted:So after bouldering for a few months, my arms are getting stronger but my wrists still feel weak doing some moves that arn't just straight hanging or pulling. Is there anything I can do to help my wrists get stronger/more stable? Google for "false grip"exercises, it's how gymnasts strengthen their wrists. You'll start by doing dead hangs from your wrists instead of hands. I agree that just climbing will be more fun and probably more effective though.
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Aug 4, 2013 00:36
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Went climbing for my second time today. I tried every v0 I could find at the gym. Sent seven of them and got my rear end kicked by five more. I think I wasted a lot of my energy early on with a really steep one (by my standards) which kept me from going at later problems full blast - but it was worth it, because I felt like a badass hanging from the wall at the top of it. Though I sure do hope I'm not breaking gym etiquette by grunting loudly during challenging moves near the end of a climb. Also managed to get my first flapper already. My climbing class starts on Tuesday so I hope it heals enough by then to not be an issue. Anyway, shoe rentals are $5+tax so I suppose I should pick up my own pair sooner rather than later. Everything I've read up on suggests I should pick up some Mad Rock Flash 2.0s, but I can't find any stores around here that carry them so I can actually try them on. At the gym I rented a pretty snug pair of 5.10 Stonelands VCS at size 10.5. Are sizings between different makes of climbing shoes similar enough that I can just order a pair of Mad Rock Flash 2.0s in size 10.5 and hope for the best? Kefit fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 04:49
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If you're grunting loudly on V0s you're breaking gym etiquette
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Aug 4, 2013 05:40
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Went climbing with modig at Satellites today and promptly embarrassed myself. News at 11. Had a lot of fun though! I just wish my hands weren't so baby smooth and weak.
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Aug 4, 2013 06:33
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Kefit posted:Anyway, shoe rentals are $5+tax so I suppose I should pick up my own pair sooner rather than later. Everything I've read up on suggests I should pick up some Mad Rock Flash 2.0s, but I can't find any stores around here that carry them so I can actually try them on. At the gym I rented a pretty snug pair of 5.10 Stonelands VCS at size 10.5. Are sizings between different makes of climbing shoes similar enough that I can just order a pair of Mad Rock Flash 2.0s in size 10.5 and hope for the best? I'd recommend against buying shoes that you haven't tried on. The sizing doesn't compare well across different shoes, sometimes even within the same brand. Go to a store, try on as many different pairs as you can and buy the ones that fit you the best. That said I'd avoid anything too fancy - ask for good all around shoes.
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Aug 4, 2013 10:41
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I think climbing shoes are one of the few exceptions where it's really not worth saving a bit of money and ordering online, but actually going to a climbing shop and explaining that you're starting out and getting fitted properly with recommendations.
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Aug 4, 2013 13:46
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Just keep climbing. They'll get stronger with time and at the same time you'll get more skilled at moving efficiently. I had a feeling it would be this, which of course I have no problem with! Haha unfortunately at 6' and 140 pounds there isn't much left for me to lose. Papercut posted:Google for "false grip"exercises, it's how gymnasts strengthen their wrists. You'll start by doing dead hangs from your wrists instead of hands. I agree that just climbing will be more fun and probably more effective though. Cool, i'll at least look it up!
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Aug 4, 2013 14:56
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I want to build a free standing hangboard thing for home to use outside and stuff, and I was wondering if anyone here as cobbled together anything similar at home if I could get some opinions on the ideas I have. Basically I wanted something super strong and balanced, and also very modular. So what I was thinking was to buy a bunch of that steel square tubing that has bolt holes along the length of it (like this,  , dimensions and lengths etc. I will sort out later once I go snooping around some hardware and steel shops for quotes), and bolt together a rectangular frame modelled off those free standing pull up/dips stations using normal bolts and joiners. That way the whole structure could be dismantled if I really wanted unlike if I screwed wood together, and I figure if I just copy a free standing pull up station design (like this  , except just with square tubing) then it should be structurally fine. I'm not planning on doing anything dynamic on it at the moment, just more static pull ups and hangs and stuff, so I was thinking as a little proof of concept stand this sort of design would be really good and cheap.I was then going to just get a bunch of 15 mm structural ply (or whatever it is that will hold 3/8" t-nuts flush with the surface), pre-install t-nuts into the planks, and then I could just bolt them onto the front of the rectangular frame. I figured I could have a panel exclusively for my Beastmaker, but then also have a couple of t-nut panels that I could install holds on and put on the frame whenever I like. Does that idea sound good? Are there any modifications anyone would make to this idea? And also, if it's decent any advice on where to get tubing like that in Sydney (AUS) would be really appreciated. I'm going to Bunnings later and I heard Edcon Steel might be alright as well. Any advice would be really appreciated, thanks a lot in advance. Edit: We're probably just going to build hangboard stands out of wood, but I was really hoping for something expandable haha. Chroisman fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 03:14
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gamera009 posted:Went climbing with modig at Satellites today and promptly embarrassed myself.  He looked like he knew what he was doing, so I stole his beta and sent the problem.
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Aug 5, 2013 14:43
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So I've been bouldering on and off for the past year, and can intermittently get most of the v2 routes down. I'm out of undergrad, again, and have time to actually climb regularly, so I'm looking to get into some climbing shoes. I think the gym uses Evolv Defy's, which I've generally liked but aren't the most comfortable. Has anyone tried the La Sportiva Tarantulace? They were damned comfortable, but the store I was at didn't really have a wall to try them out on. Specifically, I'm looking at how much I need to buy smaller. I wear a 10 street shoe, the 9 Tarantulace was comfortable if a tiny bit small, which I like in my shoe, but I wanted to know how much they stretch and how quickly they wear out. Anyone used these? Tried the Mad Rock Phoenix, too, which had some really weird sizing when I stood up in them, but were alright otherwise. Nagos were likewise incredibly comfortable until I actually put any weight on them, then they murdered the arch of my foot, for whatever reason. (I do have very flat feet).
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Aug 6, 2013 15:50
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Go to a climbing shop or REI and have them fit you. Spend the extra couple bucks to make sure you've got a good fit.
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Aug 6, 2013 18:51
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My advice is to ignore your street size and try to find a conversion table from the manufacturer if you plan to buy online. When I bought my first pair of climbing shoes I found a deal on a pair of Evolvs, looked up their totally bananas size conversion table and still love the decision two months later. My foot measured 260mm which is between their 9.5 and 10 (I'm a 9 in street shoes). I went with the smaller of the two and they were perfect. Maybe I just got lucky.
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Aug 6, 2013 20:50
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I left my shoes at my parents' place and tried bouldering at my gym in sneakers. Good lord I didn't realize my feet would be THAT useless. On the other hand I activated muscles in my arms I didn't even know or want to know I had.
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Aug 6, 2013 22:55
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Ravenfood posted:So I've been bouldering on and off for the past year, and can intermittently get most of the v2 routes down. I'm out of undergrad, again, and have time to actually climb regularly, so I'm looking to get into some climbing shoes. I think the gym uses Evolv Defy's, which I've generally liked but aren't the most comfortable. Has anyone tried the La Sportiva Tarantulace? They were damned comfortable, but the store I was at didn't really have a wall to try them out on. Specifically, I'm looking at how much I need to buy smaller. I wear a 10 street shoe, the 9 Tarantulace was comfortable if a tiny bit small, which I like in my shoe, but I wanted to know how much they stretch and how quickly they wear out. Anyone used these? Don't get TOO small though, or else it'll just hurt you. g/f had flat out painful shoes she got replaced with a half-size larger and was happier for it. The more worn out part of my shoes has been the toe. I kick a lot into a wall, and after a year there's a couple small holes in the rubber in the lower toe.
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Aug 7, 2013 00:18
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Pander posted:I have the velcro La Sportiva Tarantulas. I love them simply because they're easy to use and pretty comfy. Going a bit small is good with shoes, since you'll stretch them out a little via normal use, and a bit small/uncomfortable on the ground means they'll climb well with less discomfort and slipping.
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Aug 7, 2013 02:55
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