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The harbor freight clicker wrenches were tested as accurate in several magazine articles. The main thing with any clicker torque wrench is to remove all tension/set it back to zero when not in use. Otherwise the constant pressure on the spring will make it read lower over time.
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Jul 30, 2013 13:15
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Springs do not work like that! They wear from compress-decompress cycles, not from being stored compressed. It's like that wive's tale about unloading magazines when not in use. Right? 
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Jul 30, 2013 20:51
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Sir Cornelius posted:Could easily be misinterpreted by law enforcement officers. It's generally not recommendable to drive around with bolt cutters. I'm not worried about it, because I would never consent to a search of my vehicle, would never give PC, and they'd be in a box containing lots of other tools, as well. And no, I'm not stealing motorcycles.
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Jul 30, 2013 21:52
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Raluek posted:Springs do not work like that! They wear from compress-decompress cycles, not from being stored compressed. It's like that wive's tale about unloading magazines when not in use.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:20
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Psycho Donut Killer posted:The harbor freight clicker wrenches were tested as accurate in several magazine articles. The main thing with any clicker torque wrench is to remove all tension/set it back to zero when not in use. Otherwise the constant pressure on the spring will make it read lower over time. Wrong. Raluek posted:Springs do not work like that! They wear from compress-decompress cycles, not from being stored compressed. It's like that wive's tale about unloading magazines when not in use. Right.
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Jul 31, 2013 03:46
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Safety Dance posted:Right. The only nuance to that is with the magazine thing........ Feed lips do get deformed, especially on PMags without the clip thing on top of them. But now we need to move this over to TFR.
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Jul 31, 2013 03:52
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Can you guys point me to easily-digested reference material for this? Because one of the guys at work is an aggro vocal dick about unloading torque wrenches and also not much of a reader. 
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Aug 2, 2013 03:05
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Just tell him your brother-in-law is a mechanical engineer and that he said it's BS.
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Aug 2, 2013 03:40
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FatCow posted:Just tell him your brother-in-law is a mechanical engineer and that he said it's BS. LMAO you think the average technician is going to respect the word of an engineer? They cuss the engineers out for any and every packaging decision that doesn't result in maximum accessibility to every component on the car.
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Aug 2, 2013 04:09
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Fucknag posted:LMAO you think the average technician is going to respect the word of an engineer? They cuss the engineers out for any and every packaging decision that doesn't result in maximum accessibility to every component on the car.
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Aug 2, 2013 04:32
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Splizwarf posted:Can you guys point me to easily-digested reference material for this? Because one of the guys at work is an aggro vocal dick about unloading torque wrenches and also not much of a reader. Try this: http://www.spaceflight.esa.int/impress/text/education/Mechanical%20Properties/Creep.html and, hit next for Fatigue.
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Aug 2, 2013 04:58
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The instructions my Craftsman torque wrench came with did say to reduce it to 25% or less when storing. It may be unnecessary, but it's what they say. And it doesn't take much effort to do, so I make sure I do it each time. But it would be good to know I don't have to get  if I forget and pull it out 3 weeks later and it's cranked.
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Aug 2, 2013 05:09
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Astroman posted:The instructions my Craftsman torque wrench came with did say to reduce it to 25% or less when storing. It may be unnecessary, but it's what they say. And it doesn't take much effort to do, so I make sure I do it each time. My Armstrong torque wrench specifically stated that it does not need to be set down below a limit when not in use.
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Aug 2, 2013 05:32
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Safety Dance posted:Try this: The Fatigue page especially is fascinating, thanks!
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Aug 2, 2013 18:45
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My torque wrench won't fit in the case unless I crank it down below some value or other, so it gets set below that before being put away.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:08
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Looking at doing a couple of short custom harnesses for a project and I want to use weatherpack connectors for future-proofing instead of soldering stuff together and hoping I never need to take it out. Do I seriously need a $110 delphi crimper for this stuff?
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Aug 2, 2013 19:23
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I may be alone on this one but god I hate weatherpacks. Go with MX150s or something, anything, else instead. FCI, Amphenol, and Delphi make a whole bunch of awesome automotive connectors that don't blow goat rear end. Weatherpacks belong in the 80s whence they came.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:37
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I am a big fan Deutsch DT / DTM connectors. Mostly because of the way the three contact ones look. I am a sucker for triangles.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:43
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kastein posted:I may be alone on this one but god I hate weatherpacks. You're pretty much the first person who has ever said they hate weatherpacks. I love the drat things. They're hard to pull apart if they don't get dielectric, though. I suppose they're still infuriating, but I like them more than the other million variants of weatherproof plugs.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:59
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I was planning to do weatherpacks because it's easy to find kits and I'm not gonna have the boat in front of me to plan what to order. Ummmm... so about the crimper...?
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Aug 3, 2013 02:13
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Is this a good deal? I originally went in for the angle head metric set. I quickly turned into Joe Dirt when I saw these. I said dang that's a good deal brother these things are usually 14 bucks a pop and this guy only wants 2.50.
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Aug 3, 2013 19:12
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Springs CAN (but not WILL) technically wear from compression. This is called creep. It is very unlikely to happen in a measurable amount under anything like normal conditions. Look up a creep study on A231 steel or a similar alloy. If well below the plastic region of a stress strain curve, it is very unlikely this will happen at sub 200*F temperatures.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:03
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http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1304_torque_wrench_testing/ It may be wrong, but on the other hand it costs nothing to turn down the tension when not in use.
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Aug 4, 2013 01:43
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fps_bill posted:Is this a good deal? That's a great deal, buy.
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Aug 4, 2013 04:01
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Safety Dance posted:Try this: Material Science is one of the coolest fields.
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Aug 4, 2013 04:24
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Phone posted:Material Science is one of the coolest fields.
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Aug 4, 2013 10:46
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1st Edition ADandD posted:I was planning to do weatherpacks because it's easy to find kits and I'm not gonna have the boat in front of me to plan what to order. Ummmm... so about the crimper...? You can get away with a cheap $30 SK if you are just doing a couple of jumpers/connectors and it's properly sized. A ratcheting crimper with the right dies is a must if you are going to be using it a lot. Be sure to get something specific to Weatherpack and it will work. Then practice on a few wire scraps to get your crimps looking good.
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Aug 4, 2013 15:09
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Psycho Donut Killer posted:http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1304_torque_wrench_testing/ I always return mine to the lowest setting, but I understand the science behind it. Like you said, it costs nothing. I've read a couple of articles in Hot Rod and Car Craft that read like that one. They all read "We're trying our Harbor Freight (TM) doohickey against the Snap On variety. Man, Harbor Freight (TM) sure is great." It makes me question their integrity, because we all know how much advertising HF does in those mags.
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Aug 4, 2013 18:04
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I read somewhere (here?) that unloading a torque wrench all the way is bad because parts (seals?) are designed to work under some load, so I lessen the tension, but not to zero. Down to like 10%. Plus, I don't think it fits back in the case completely unloaded...
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Aug 4, 2013 20:19
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Psycho Donut Killer posted:http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1304_torque_wrench_testing/ Technically, turning the tension down wears the spring out marginally faster than not turning it down.
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Aug 4, 2013 20:19
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Used my HF wrench today. I had to torque to 162 ft-lbs on a 150 ft-lb torque wrench. I just turned to where it would be and said gently caress it.  (I hope my axles don't fall out)
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Aug 5, 2013 01:43
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camino posted:I always return mine to the lowest setting, but I understand the science behind it. Like you said, it costs nothing. 30 seconds is 30 seconds, and only worthless by choice.  Especially when my gloves are covered in oil and leaking sweat in spurts when I grab something.
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Aug 5, 2013 04:10
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SnapOn MT2500 scanner.... worth it? I would like it to work with my E60 and Land Rover, and do other oddball cars. I know you have to buy the keys and modules... any one care to explain how it works?
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Aug 6, 2013 16:21
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Hypnolobster posted:You're pretty much the first person who has ever said they hate weatherpacks. I love the drat things. They're hard to pull apart if they don't get dielectric, though. My problems with them stem from how they don't keep weather out (I've seen more of them turn into gross piles of greenish gunk inside than any other automotive connector, except other stupid crap that should have stayed in the 80s too) the seals like to get baggy and slide around and the stupid tangs that hold the pins in occasionally bend back, letting the pin fall out. Oh, and the pins have so much wobble room in the socket even under normal conditions that sometimes they won't line up right for me and I have to jiggle everything to get them to plug in. Delphi GT150, Molex MX150, Lear MKR and MKS Plus (great if you love triangles), and Delphi/FCI APEX 2.8mm automotive connectors are far superior. I should probably sperg about this in the automotive tech thread instead of the tool thread, honestly. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 17:08
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I hate every connector, none of them will come apart when you need them to and none of them connect when you need them to.
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Aug 6, 2013 21:17
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thebigcow posted:I hate every connector, none of them will come apart when you need them to and none of them connect when you need them to. I don't know what brand/type it is that Audi uses for connectors but I quite like them.
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Aug 8, 2013 00:59
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Does anyone have any experience with ordering Milwaukee's factory reconditioned tools? Specifically I'm looking at the M18 Cordless Impact wrench kit which sells for $80 less reconditioned vs new, pretty hefty difference. Milwaukee is a very reputable brand and the recon units do still come with a 1 year warranty, should I save the cash for some impact sockets or just pay up and get the retail?
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Aug 8, 2013 01:44
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I have the recondition units from northern tools and they were great. A little scratched up and they had some engravings on them from the factory, but id recommend them. M18 drill, driver, sawzall, and light.
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Aug 8, 2013 01:47
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Milwaukee was bought by a Chinese conglomerate in 2005 and nearly all of its production moved there. They're probably on par with most of the other Chinese-made power tools, but they're not the premium brand they used to be. A reconditioned Milwaukee isn't going to be any better than a reconditioned anything else, but for the price it's probably not a bad deal.
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Aug 8, 2013 02:02
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Brain Issues posted:I don't know what brand/type it is that Audi uses for connectors but I quite like them. Bosch EV probably.
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Aug 8, 2013 02:05
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