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numbs posted:Hmm, alrighty man. Focus on subs that compliment the music you listen to, and fit within your budget. Check out Crutchfield, come back here with some more specific questions and you'll get more helpful responses.
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Jul 31, 2013 03:10
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JackRabbitStorm posted:Focus on subs that compliment the music you listen to, and fit within your budget. Check out Crutchfield, come back here with some more specific questions and you'll get more helpful responses. Thanks!
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Jul 31, 2013 03:46
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Don't listen to the haters! If you want bass outside your car it's because you must love when others do it right? If those are your idols then don't let these granny-riders bring you down!
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Jul 31, 2013 20:59
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FYAD is 
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Jul 31, 2013 21:04
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I've often though about building a big stereo for outside sound use for my 6x6. Basically a full on PA setup with bass bins and horns and all, for camping parties way out.
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Jul 31, 2013 21:25
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This came up in the Jeep thread:commissargribb posted:
Krakkles posted:Are there any better stereos like that? Ideally, I'm looking for AM/FM, (multiple mono/stereo) AUX in, USB, and (maybe) an SD card. And I'm willing to spend more than $30 to get a good one. If it matters, the Jeep has 4 (~4"?) speakers, two in the front doors, two in the rear, and I just picked up a set of Infinity references to replace whatever poo poo was in them before. I'm not likely to add a subwoofer or more speakers or anything, and putting an amp in would also be ... unlikely. Bonus points for less flashy lights and/or red display. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 17:11
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Art Bell is coming to SiriusXM, guess it's time I look into getting satellite radio. I know my 2007 Ford Explorer kinda supports it through the AUX button, but I'm not too sure how pretty it looks over the crappy rear end stock LCD. And the price seems to be around $200 or so for everything I need. http://store.xmfanstore.com/complete-sirius-install-kit-for-ford-lincoln-mercury.html Would I just be better off getting some headunit with all that built-in?
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Aug 2, 2013 04:48
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numbs posted:I just got my first car, and first job, and I really like bass. I want everyone else outside of my car to hear my bass too. Thing is, I'm not making much money at my job, considering it pays minimum wage. What subwoofers would you recommend? If you really want to be that guy then it sounds like you would enjoy a bandpass box and a pair of cheap 12in subs. Those guys back in high school seem to love audiobahn. It will be loud that's for sure.
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Aug 2, 2013 05:21
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M3wThr33 posted:Art Bell is coming to SiriusXM, guess it's time I look into getting satellite radio. If you have an aux port, use that. The song/station info would be on the Sirius unit. I had a built in for my old Toyota, by then had to built a discrete unit because my bmw didn't work with that head unit. The aux unit is easier to move around, bring indoors, etc.
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Aug 2, 2013 12:40
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Alarbus posted:If you have an aux port, use that. The song/station info would be on the Sirius unit. I had a built in for my old Toyota, by then had to built a discrete unit because my bmw didn't work with that head unit. The aux unit is easier to move around, bring indoors, etc. Well, the other alternative is to go streaming only and use an Android app, because I already have my Galaxy S4 hooked up over the audio and I stream Pandora just fine.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:35
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MikeyTsi posted:Did you get polarity reversed on your speakers or something? I...don't think so? I checked the wiring 3-4 times, and I'm pretty sure I've got it correct as far as the diagrams go.
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Aug 3, 2013 05:58
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M3wThr33 posted:Well, the other alternative is to go streaming only and use an Android app, because I already have my Galaxy S4 hooked up over the audio and I stream Pandora just fine. Get the free trial before you plan on that. When last I used SiriusXM streaming, it sounded even shittier than an actual SiriusXM signal does. And that was on an excellent DSL connection.
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Aug 3, 2013 06:41
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2013 Chevy Cruze with stock audio including head unit and navigation. Currently 2 tweeters and 6 1/2" mids in the doors. Current plan is to upgrade factory audio with the following: 6.5" Polk Audio components with tweeters in front doors and angles, with 6.5" coaxel Polk Audio speakers in the back doors, and those being powered by an Alpine MRX series 110 watt x 4 channels. Then, to add tight bass, adding Cadence 6x9 mid-bass speakers in the rear deck, powered by Alpine 2 channel x 75 watts. Thoughts on this setup? I'm looking to spend around $1k. I'm looking for tight, compact bass that doesn't leak out of the car.
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Aug 4, 2013 21:02
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As a general rule, you want much more power to your subs/bass speakers than to your mid/high speakers. Bass just takes much more power to reproduce, especially in a car which is a terrible audio environment. So having a 75w/ch amp powering your low frequency, while having 110w/ch to your mid/highs really doesn't make much sense. I'm using a 50w/ch to my coaxial/components in front, and a 500w amp for the subs (mono). I can turn it up to ear-bleed levels (115db in drivers seat) with no distortion since 50w/ch is more than enough when you send the low frequencies to a dedicated sub/amp. I trip protection on the 500w amp before the 50w fronts begin to produce audible distortion. I'd look into a mono-block amp with a much higher wattage to drive your low frequency speakers, and if you have room, consider going to 'real' sub woofers instead of 6 x 9's. A pair of 10" subs should give very clean tight bass with the right cabinets and good power. The 6.5's should cover down to the crossover frequency with 110watts easily. The Locator fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 22:06
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numbs posted:2013 Chevy Cruze with stock audio including head unit and navigation. Currently 2 tweeters and 6 1/2" mids in the doors. Current plan is to upgrade factory audio with the following: I think if you are looking for tight bass, you could easily put a 10" sub into a sealed box, it's not mega loud, but the sealed boxes generally create a nice tight sound with the right design, especially from something like a 10". If you tune it right you're not going to have sound leaking out everywhere, but you're going to have some nice tight low-end like you were looking for further up the thread. If you're handy at all, and can run a table saw and a router, you can build a musical sub box for about 20 bucks in materials. Plus in my opinion it's kind of fun, and the calculations for volume requirements are mega easy.
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Aug 5, 2013 01:03
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My iPhone's on the way out so I just ordered a Nexus 4. I've been meaning to switch to a bluetooth head unit as well, and have been eyeing the AppRadio 3 in hopes that a new version of ARLiberator will come out soon to handle it. That said, it sounds like the Nex4 and AppRadio 3 (and previously, 2) have an assortment of bluetooth issues. Anyone have experience with this?
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Aug 5, 2013 06:27
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blk posted:My iPhone's on the way out so I just ordered a Nexus 4. I've been meaning to switch to a bluetooth head unit as well, and have been eyeing the AppRadio 3 in hopes that a new version of ARLiberator will come out soon to handle it. That said, it sounds like the Nex4 and AppRadio 3 (and previously, 2) have an assortment of bluetooth issues. Anyone have experience with this? Works fine with my iPhone 
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Aug 5, 2013 06:59
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I...don't think so? I checked the wiring 3-4 times, and I'm pretty sure I've got it correct as far as the diagrams go. I'd swap one speaker just to make absolutely sure.
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Aug 5, 2013 19:35
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Is there any reason this microphone wouldn't work with this headunit? It says it's for Clarion only, but as far as I can tell, it only has the one connection (the 3.5mm mic jack), which is what the stock mic connects to the Kenwood headunit with. I've obtained a HU without a mic, and in looking for one, this one looks pretty nice. In particular, I like the noise cancelling aspect, since this is for use in a rather ... disharmonious vehicle. If it won't work, any other suggestions?
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Aug 5, 2013 20:49
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blk posted:My iPhone's on the way out so I just ordered a Nexus 4. I've been meaning to switch to a bluetooth head unit as well, and have been eyeing the AppRadio 3 in hopes that a new version of ARLiberator will come out soon to handle it. That said, it sounds like the Nex4 and AppRadio 3 (and previously, 2) have an assortment of bluetooth issues. Anyone have experience with this? I looked at the AppRadio line and then just decided against it since I didn't want to buy a AR2 and then dump $40 into the ARliberator app. I picked up a AVH-3500BHS instead, and I took my old iPhone and stuffed in the glovebox plugged in to the USB. Its now a glorified GPS device that gets internet from my android phone. When I want to, I can remove it and load music on it or update it. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to try and use tasker to turn on my hotspot when my android connects to the HU's bluetooth. Krakkles posted:Is there any reason this microphone wouldn't work with this headunit? I don't see why it wouldn't there isn't really anything proprietary about the microphones that I have heard about. You can always chat with a guy from Crutchfield and ask him. They have always been good to deal with when I have talked with them.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:04
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blk posted:My iPhone's on the way out so I just ordered a Nexus 4. I've been meaning to switch to a bluetooth head unit as well, and have been eyeing the AppRadio 3 in hopes that a new version of ARLiberator will come out soon to handle it. That said, it sounds like the Nex4 and AppRadio 3 (and previously, 2) have an assortment of bluetooth issues. Anyone have experience with this? I can't speak specifically for the appradio, but my DEH-6400BT had some issues with Bluetooth with my N4. Mainly, if I had both A2DP and phone streaming on, the phone would lock up at random when shutting off the car. If I kept only A2DP enabled it worked just fine though (and I wanted bluetooth more for streaming music anyway). It happened across multiple ROMs, and on both 4.1 and 4.2, so I don't think it was a firmware thing. I no longer have the stereo though, so I can't really test it with 4.3. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 03:26
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So, Getting a new ride (2000 buick regal GS, loaded woo) Need a new radio. Wants. Touchscreen, Mandatory Bluetooth that works, Mandatory. Microphone and poo poo for calls, also needed. Prefer "Factory" look. The less bling the less likely my windows getting smashed in for it. Double Din, Obviously. Everything else is sort of a bonus. Wifi and poo poo would be rad but I'm not willing to pay a giant premium for it. Normally Id just buy a single din Pioneer thats middle to high end, and be done with it. But I'd really like this one to be an honest "set and forget" kind of setup. Navigation is not something I super care about since my phone does that already, CD/DVD is pointless, Ill never actually put a disc in, Aux for non phones would be cool but again not a big deal. The car itself, No idea if it has the monsoon system in it, I'll ask the old man before I pull the trigger on things. And Id like to stay as far under 500 as I can since I do still have to put a sub in and potentially replace speakers depending on how hosed up my uncle has blown them since hes had the car. So help audio goons. I'm so out of the loop anymore. Couple I've been looking at. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X350BHS/Pioneer-AVH-X3500BHS.html I like it, Its a brand I know. Its cheap. Anything major I should know? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105ADV65BT/JVC-Arsenal-KW-ADV65BT.html?tp=20217 Also liking this one. Detachable face makes me happy actually. Reviews say screen is kinda mediocre, which I guess could be an issue but im not thinking its that big of a deal and the face being removable really really makes me happy. Thoughts? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333ASTRDSM/Parrot-ASTEROID-Smart.html Also seeing that floating around the internet. Major downside is no actual volume control. One of my bigger concerns is crutchfield says NOTHING is compatible with my car. Oh lord, help me. Is this going to be one of those fun GM issues with security bypass bullshit? Or is it a depth issue? Going to be super bummed if I cant throw something nice and touchscreen in  I'm swimming in a sea of screens. Help me goons, So I can pull the trigger soon. EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 07:34
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EbolaIvory posted:So help audio goons. I'm so out of the loop anymore. Couple I've been looking at. I just bought this for my WRX. I actually like it quite a bit. The menus are intuitive, the bluetooth controls work well. It handles Pandora over BT with my Android just fine. My one gripe is that some of the touch icons are a bit small. Like the radio preset icons. You can skip through them with the physical button but if you wanted to choose 5 and you are on 1, it would be nice to just press 5. This isn't a big issue, you just have to be more precise with your chubby digits. Others have said that they have trouble seeing the screen in sunlight. The radio in my WRX is at the top of the dash and I don't have any issues with this. I do have my windows tinted 35%, but even with them down I don't see what the fuss is about. Solid radio, and I picked it up on Amazon for $280 shipped with Prime. No free install accessories, but I found those on amazon for less than $15 for everything. quote:http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105ADV65BT/JVC-Arsenal-KW-ADV65BT.html?tp=20217 I looked at the JVC units and they were my runner up to the Pioneer. It really came down to personal preference after going to a store and seeing the screen (which is mediocre) and cruising through the menus. I just liked the way the Pioneer looked and how it was laid out more. I have had Pioneer stereos before and had a reasonable certainty that I would be pleased with it. The JVC was a solid unit though. Also, pay attention because some of the JVC units have a USB bluetooth module that eats on of your USB ports. quote:http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333ASTRDSM/Parrot-ASTEROID-Smart.html Yeah I looked at this too and was totally underwhelmed when I played with it. After reading other reviews it seemed like few people had nice things to say about it. quote:One of my bigger concerns is crutchfield says NOTHING is compatible with my car. Oh lord, help me. Is this going to be one of those fun GM issues with security bypass bullshit? Or is it a depth issue? Going to be super bummed if I cant throw something nice and touchscreen in They said that about a bunch of stuff I was looking at. I just did some searching about my car for information. If Metra makes a harness and dash adapter, its probably just fine. You mention you want to keep the price below $500, I'm assuming that you just mean for the HU. Speakers, Sub, HU for under that is going to be a stretch unless you start tossing out must haves.
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Aug 6, 2013 12:30
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Aflicted posted:I just bought this for my WRX. I actually like it quite a bit. The menus are intuitive, the bluetooth controls work well. It handles Pandora over BT with my Android just fine. My one gripe is that some of the touch icons are a bit small. Like the radio preset icons. You can skip through them with the physical button but if you wanted to choose 5 and you are on 1, it would be nice to just press 5. This isn't a big issue, you just have to be more precise with your chubby digits. Others have said that they have trouble seeing the screen in sunlight. The radio in my WRX is at the top of the dash and I don't have any issues with this. I do have my windows tinted 35%, but even with them down I don't see what the fuss is about. Solid radio, and I picked it up on Amazon for $280 shipped with Prime. No free install accessories, but I found those on amazon for less than $15 for everything. I need a new sub. But I have an amp, box, etc. So really under 500 for both would be super nice. Does the pioneers face detatch?
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Aug 6, 2013 18:12
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EbolaIvory posted:I need a new sub. But I have an amp, box, etc. So really under 500 for both would be super nice. The face does not detach on the Pioneer, no. The JVC unit is one of the only ones that I cam across that does that. If you already have most of the stuff, you could probably get it all done for under $500. The AVH-3500BHS can be had for 280 + 20 for install accessories. Leaves you $200 for sub and speakers which is probably doable with some diligent shopping. Or you could get some really nice speakers and just add a sub into the mix later.
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Aug 6, 2013 18:27
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Aflicted posted:The face does not detach on the Pioneer, no. The JVC unit is one of the only ones that I cam across that does that. If you already have most of the stuff, you could probably get it all done for under $500. The AVH-3500BHS can be had for 280 + 20 for install accessories. Leaves you $200 for sub and speakers which is probably doable with some diligent shopping. Or you could get some really nice speakers and just add a sub into the mix later. That pretty much sells me on the JVC then. I really dont care about USB ports or extras. I just want bluetooth to work, maybe an aux which it has, and a touchscreen for operation. Anything else is kind of a bonus. And it seems if I shop around the JVC can be had cheap I think. Thanks sir. EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 22:09
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Currently using an old-ish Alpine IDA-X100. Looking for a similar setup, that is compatible with iphone 5. Connectivity wise, Bluetooth or cable does not bother me, just feel like this headunit has reached the end of its life (for my tolerance of its quirks) and my old-rear end ipod nano-fatty taking a bath and leaving me with the horrible USB storage playback is the final nail in the coffin. no budget, no other specific features- just looking for a head unit with iphone5 compatibility.
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Aug 7, 2013 02:39
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Laserface posted:Currently using an old-ish Alpine IDA-X100. That's pretty wide open, we need a little more info than that to work with. Anything from a $100 Walmart special to a $1,200 pioneer might fit that discription.
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Aug 7, 2013 12:00
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Ok then. iPhone 5 cable compatible or Bluetooth (including hands free calls if BT) decent EQ, single DIN, pre outs for speakers and a sub, preferably no built in GPS. Budget is pretty flexible as long as the feature set is there. The EQ on my current unit sucks, and the q/f poo poo is too complicated to know how to change on the fly, so would rather a graphic EQ or even just a 3 band with number values so I can at least easily tell what I'm changing without referencing the manual constantly. Color LCD or a big clock would be nice too as my dash clock is dead.
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Aug 7, 2013 16:16
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Even the relatively low end Pioneer DEH-X6500BT nails all of that except for the color LCD, for only a hair over $100. I had its predecessor (DEH-6400BT), as long as it wasn't paired with a Nexus 4 it was a great stereo. The only reason I got rid of it is I really want to go double DIN on the car I currently own. On the 6500, you get 2 preout sets (1 dedicated to fronts, other switchable between rear or sub, with adjustable crossover when set to sub), 5 band EQ, Bluetooth (both phone and audio streaming), iphone integration (optional cable needed), and the display shows nothing but clock if you're not touching it (when configured properly). If you have a Nexus 4, you'd have to disable phone streaming (this goes for most Pioneer car stereos); A2DP still works fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Aug 9, 2013 |
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Aug 9, 2013 08:04
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I'm looking to get a simple sub in my car. Maybe a tube.
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Aug 10, 2013 19:10
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numbs posted:I'm looking to get a simple sub in my car. Maybe a tube.
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Aug 10, 2013 19:56
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So the Buick I went and picked up. Turns out. Has the Monsoon system in it. And every rear speaker is blown. So this means, Pay 100 per side for stock replacements (Or JBL GTO928 are apparently a direct replacement or something), or rip it all out and start over. Does anybody know much about this monsoon poo poo? I keep seeing "you'll have to bypass the stock poo poo to use an aftermarket Hu". Isnt there some GM adapter or something that will make it work? Because if so, Thats going to save me a poo poo ton of money long term. If not, well poo poo. For reference. 2000 Buick Regal, With monsoon. Why cant car audio just be simple like it used to be I guess long story short. Can someone recommend 1/2 decent as good or better than the monsoon speakers, that I dont "NEED" an amp to run? And will fit without me cutting apart things? If I have to run speaker wire manually I will. Or maybe, Someone just hold my hand for a while and what not? Like maybe chit chat on skype or something? I'm at a total loving loss on this. EDIT: And thinking about it. I Guess I could run a second amp. I just really am trying to spend less money now that I have to buy a handful of other things to fix the car up. So budget is getting tight. Hell i might even have to skip the touch screen
EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Aug 11, 2013 |
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Aug 11, 2013 07:15
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HELP PLEASE!! I have a 2006 vw Rabbit 2.5 2 door. I recently bought a Pioneer FH-X700BT. I have connected up the harness, only problem is that the Pioneer harness has a red and the other harness doesn't. I am stuck on where to plug the red wire(acc. power?), I am think I need to attach it to one of the fuses in the c panel, but I don't know which slot, or even if that is the right thing to do. This is my first attempt at putting in a stereo and it has been much more difficult than I thought. Thanks
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Aug 12, 2013 05:41
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I believe the red wire is switched 12V, while yellow is constant 12V. If your adapter harness doesn't have a red wire, you'll need to splice it into some (fused) power source that's only active with the key in ACC or RUN. Or in your case, probably I and II. A good harness should have everything labeled. And if you're not using an adapter harness, go pick one up.
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Aug 12, 2013 05:52
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Hi guys. I'm looking to upgrade from the stock lovely speakers in my 98 Subaru STi. This is an import from Japan (I'm in Canada) but the chassis and speaker size is the same as a 98 Impreza that was available in North America. I am looking for 6.5" speakers for the front doors (no speaker fitting in the rear doors as per ~super sporty~. I have a couple of cheap 6x9's poorly installed into the parcel shelf by the PO that I have left unwired for now, will likely replace these with decent 6x9's if anyone has a recommendation there as well. I will be using these adaptors meaning the 6.5"s which have a cutout diameter of 5.0" - 5.90" and provides a mounting depth of 0"-2.92". I understand the mounting depth particularily might be an issue. Thanks for any recommendations you can give. I don't have seperate tweeters so was thinking that a 2 or 3-way might be the best bet. Edit: Powered by a higher end 2013 Kenwood deck, don't remember the model at present. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 12, 2013 16:45
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some texas redneck posted:I believe the red wire is switched 12V, while yellow is constant 12V. I already wired the adapter harness to the Pioneer harness. I have wired the red to the panel on the inside of the driver door. I would like to add it to the cigarette lighter, a 20 fuse. I am trippin that if I add it to a fuse that is 20 or something higher that it will be too much power to the radio, bc on the radio there is a 10 fuse. does this even matter?
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Aug 12, 2013 17:25
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No. Think of it like this - you have a table lamp at home with a 60 watt bulb. The circuit it's plugged into is likely protected by either a 15 or 20 amp breaker. It'll only pull 60 watts no matter what the fuse/breaker is. As long as the wire you use is the proper gauge for a 20 amp circuit, you'll be fine. Assuming 15 feet of wire, that would be 14 gauge. If you knock it down to 10 feet, 16 gauge would suffice. More here..
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Aug 12, 2013 17:30
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some texas redneck posted:No. Think of it like this - you have a table lamp at home with a 60 watt bulb. The circuit it's plugged into is likely protected by either a 15 or 20 amp breaker. It'll only pull 60 watts no matter what the fuse/breaker is. In relation to his problem though, the ACC line shouldn't actually be powering the HU, that will come from the constant 12v correct? The ACC line is the equivalent to a remote turn on lead for an amp really. Or am I completely hosed in my understanding of this? (very possible) VelociBacon posted:Hi guys. I'm looking to upgrade from the stock lovely speakers in my 98 Subaru STi. This is an import from Japan (I'm in Canada) but the chassis and speaker size is the same as a 98 Impreza that was available in North America. I am looking for 6.5" speakers for the front doors (no speaker fitting in the rear doors as per ~super sporty~. I have a couple of cheap 6x9's poorly installed into the parcel shelf by the PO that I have left unwired for now, will likely replace these with decent 6x9's if anyone has a recommendation there as well. I just stuffed some Focal Access 6.5's into my WRX and quite like them a lot. They are very efficient so don't need a ton of power. They are metallic tweeters though so by nature they are a bit more harsh in the high frequencies as opposed to something with a textile tweeter that would be softer. It is a personal preference really, its not going to make your ears bleed. The Focal tweeters will rotate so you can angle them up and towards the middle of the cabin from the lower door mounting position. I run these in the front with 40 watts going to each one and a single 8" sub in a small ported enclosure in the back. I have a hatchback so the sub carries well and everything blends nicely. Crutchfield sent wiring adapters and spacers for free with them. I was a bit worried about the depth myself since these are not shallow mount, but it clears everything and my windows go down all the way without hitting them. I have no experience with 6x9's since I either removed them and put in a sub, or the car didn't have them to begin with.
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Aug 12, 2013 17:59
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Aflicted posted:In relation to his problem though, the ACC line shouldn't actually be powering the HU, that will come from the constant 12v correct? The ACC line is the equivalent to a remote turn on lead for an amp really. Or am I completely hosed in my understanding of this? (very possible) He's tapping into a switched circuit so that it'll turn on/off with the car, I think he already has a constant 12V. His car, like a lot of newer ones, don't actually run a switched 12V to the stereo; the stereo ties into the car's onboard network (CAN bus or whatever they're using these days) and takes a signal from the BCM to turn on/off. It sounds like he went with a cheap adapter harness; the good ones tie into the existing electronics to provide both a constant and switched 12V. Those also keep retained accessory power working with the stereo, if the car is equipped (that feature where the radio stays on until you open the door, even with the key removed). Those adapters can be kind of pricey though; it looks like one for his car would be about $60-70.
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Aug 12, 2013 18:15
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