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wait though -- pretty sure they only use the getrag mt82 in mustangs. They use a different getrag transmission in the Focus and Fusion. I don't know what they use in the standard transmission F150s... My new mt82 is breaking in nicely, but I'm still strongly considering selling the car.
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Jul 16, 2013 03:42
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roger wilco posted:wait though -- pretty sure they only use the getrag mt82 in mustangs. They use a different getrag transmission in the Focus and Fusion. I don't know what they use in the standard transmission F150s... I don't think you can buy a manual F150 any more.
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Jul 16, 2013 11:41
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A.o.D. posted:I don't think you can buy a manual F150 any more. Nope, you sure can't. It got killed in the 2009 refresh. And even before then, you could only get it on stripper models with the 4.2 V6. It was the Mazda M5OD, same transmission as the Explorer and Ranger. Last time you could get a manual V8 was 2003 and only with the 4.6, never with the 5.4.
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Jul 16, 2013 14:26
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 What's not pictured? Just the tip. 
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Jul 17, 2013 17:44
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Does the 2013 have a safety feature or something to disable the passenger door unlock/unlock button or is mine just dead?
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Jul 18, 2013 17:23
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Wife drove the mustang the other day. Dipshit tagged her on the drivers side front quarter panel (she wasn't at fault). Not bad, about 1400 in repair costs. First accident in more than 10 years. The person that hit her was in a company work van; most likely the company will pay out of pocket rather than file a claim. What is the best way to go about filing a diminished value claim?
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Jul 23, 2013 02:04
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I successfully filed a diminished value claim against Geico. You have to get the car appraised by someone who professionally appraises car damage for its value before and after the repairs are done. Don't expect the insurance companies from either side to help you. Their job is to get the car to working order. They do not care about future resale value and will not pay unless you sue. My wifes car was a Kia that had a head on collision by a guy that fell asleep crossing an intersection. He caused 47% of the cars value to be damaged to the front end of the car. The car was brand new and under the insurance guidelines, the car did not qualify for a total and was repaired. the car works fine now and under insurance guidelines they put the car back into perfect working order. My problem was I told them when I go to sell the car a car fax is going to show it had almost 50% front end damage and I would never be able to sell or trade the car off. I sued to get a diminished value claim since Geico said they would not pay. I used http://www.wreckcheckboston.com/ it costs about $300 I am not sure, but if it is paid out of pocket, I do not think the damage will appear on a car fax report. If they pay out of pocket, I would let them fix it and avoid having this showup on the report. With no claims/history of damage the diminished value claim is irrelevant since you can sell the car for full value. Also $1400 to a car that is worth between 7 to 12k, the diminished value you will get will be low. you are not going to recoup labor costs. The parts for a fender, lights, etc... and subtract $300 for the appraisal, the diminshed cash value you end up with will be extremely low. if you get a lawyer to help out, expect 33.33% of the win to go into his pocket. If you have other questions let me know...
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Jul 23, 2013 15:03
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You can't sue for legal fees as well?
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Jul 23, 2013 21:51
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kalvick posted:Also $1400 to a car that is worth between 7 to 12k, the diminished value you will get will be low. you are not going to recoup labor costs. The parts for a fender, lights, etc... and subtract $300 for the appraisal, the diminshed cash value you end up with will be extremely low. if you get a lawyer to help out, expect 33.33% of the win to go into his pocket. Thanks, great info. For what its worth, it is a 2012 GT premium with 9500 miles, so worth a bit more than 12k
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Jul 24, 2013 01:49
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Can I get any advice on this car? http://www.toyotaofgrapevine.com/used/Ford/2013-Ford-Mustang-edf37bb90a0a00de01a1f567afb9f212.htm White 2013 Mustang GT. For 29,881. Used. 14k miles on it. Seems like a steal. Backup sensors and camera, heated seats. Has some nice leather seats. The interior is all black which is a huge negative. But that seems to be the only negative. I'm assuming the GT's will hold onto resale value... OR This 2013 v6 premium has heated seats and reverse sensors. http://www.arrowford.com/2013-Ford-Mustang-Abilene-TX/vd/12897064 Using xplan pricing they offered 27.5k out the door including TTL.
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Jul 24, 2013 03:36
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Tide posted:Thanks, great info. For what its worth, it is a 2012 GT premium with 9500 miles, so worth a bit more than 12k I thought it was an older model, you said first accident in 10 years. I just assumed 1st accident in your Stang! you can also sue for legal fees as well if your lawyer wants to attempt it. the problem with this kind of lawsuit, is that you have to get a judge to understand that your repaired car may be back to new condition, but its still not valuable anymore because its not like it was. Some people do not get that repaired is not the same thing as original or replacement. you have to be really careful if you attempt this without a lawyer in court, because the defendant will send in there attorneys, in this case the insurance companys lawyers cuz they sure as hell don't want to pay! My lawyer used the argument, that one of the first claims of diminished value back in the 1800's was that a horse pulling a buggy was accidently killed in some mishap. the person that caused the mishap purchased a new horse for the buggy operator. even though the horse and buggy are completely restored and in working order and the horse operated the buggy with out any problems. The issue was that the new horse had behaviors that he learned from his old master. So he wanted money for diminished value because the buggy operator had to learn all the horse's nuances. The judge agreed the horse replacement was good but it was not the same thing the buggy operator had with his old horse. the Judge told the man to pay extra to the buggy operator to spend retraining his new horse. the other argument you can make is like an original Ferrari. The car gets into an accident and loses its fender. the problem is that the car can not be repaired to like new. Every Ferrari was hand built by a little Italian craftsman in Marenello. He is long since dead. You can find a new metal shop to bang out a new fender and paint it but, they wont have original paint and the hammer strikes to bang out the shape are not the same. Therefore its lost its original value because it has current parts, there is nothing historic about that replaced part. That's why it is just easier to total out the cars value and pay you off for the loss. Newer cars have parts you can get OEM direct from the factory. the same rules apply it was not put together at the ford factory, the paint never matches 100% and they have to blend it in to match the rest of your car, you have no idea what is different under the repairs, it could be a patch job or a better than new repair. So you can say your car is repaired but its not something that Ford put together for you, so its not worth as much as a same car, same miles, that was not in an accident. kalvick fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jul 24, 2013 |
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Jul 24, 2013 14:19
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hey does anyone have any experience with Torsen or other LSD variants for differential upgrades? I am going to be redoing my gears to get rid of the just awful gear whine and I was figuring while it was all apart should I redo the differential? A Torsen is just another 250 or so bucks and an LSD is more like 600+ is there any pros/cons to doing this? its a weekend warrior/possible autocrosser but I already have an overly insane suspension setup so more grip the better I say. Or should I stick with the open differential or not? Also what about differential covers? should I get a finned cover or a cover that has access to add temp sensors and what not? I want to do everything in one shot.
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Jul 25, 2013 17:18
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I saw a 2001 Bullitt sitting at the corner of a dealer and started getting crazy ideas of buying it. From what I've read it was a GT from that year with a few exterior mods and better brakes. Will I be cursing myself for buying this thing the first time some Bullitt exclusive part breaks or can I mostly replace things with GT parts and a little work?
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Jul 25, 2013 23:53
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thebigcow posted:I saw a 2001 Bullitt sitting at the corner of a dealer and started getting crazy ideas of buying it. From what I've read it was a GT from that year with a few exterior mods and better brakes. Will I be cursing myself for buying this thing the first time some Bullitt exclusive part breaks or can I mostly replace things with GT parts and a little work? There is quite a bit more different about it! 3rd post down: http://mustangforums.com/forum/bullitt-mustangs/188656-whats-the-difference-gt-vs-bullitt.html I bought one 6 years ago and absolutely love it. I prefer the cleaner look compared to GT's of that generation and I can squeeze about 26mpg out of it doing mostly highway driving, but it's fun to drive so I rarely get that. It's no newer 5.0 but it's a good car. As for more expensive parts, I don't think you have anything to worry about there unless you are talking the instrument cluster or the engraved door sills.
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Jul 26, 2013 00:04
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thebigcow posted:I saw a 2001 Bullitt sitting at the corner of a dealer and started getting crazy ideas of buying it. From what I've read it was a GT from that year with a few exterior mods and better brakes. Will I be cursing myself for buying this thing the first time some Bullitt exclusive part breaks or can I mostly replace things with GT parts and a little work? Every single part on there is cosmetic, except the bigger brakes and the intake/plenum. the intake is probably the most expensive part and is good for about adding 5hp. If you get a kenne bell Super charger you are just going to remove that part anyway. The brakes are a cobra set with the pony printed on the caliper instead of the word cobra. The suspension is nominally better that a stock mustang. All parts should be extremely easy to replace. If you are going to get a collector edition car, you will want to keep it stock so it keeps its resale value and exclusivity.
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Jul 26, 2013 14:38
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thebigcow posted:I saw a 2001 Bullitt sitting at the corner of a dealer and started getting crazy ideas of buying it. From what I've read it was a GT from that year with a few exterior mods and better brakes. Will I be cursing myself for buying this thing the first time some Bullitt exclusive part breaks or can I mostly replace things with GT parts and a little work? If I could have found a good Bullitt when I was shopping, I would have got one instead of the GT. The cosmetic package on it looks nice and tidy and the better brakes would be - and I say this as someone who enjoys driving the GT as is - a really, really nice thing to have.
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Jul 26, 2013 19:30
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Insurance came back reasonable, I think I'm going back for a test drive. Now to see if I can remember how to drive stick well enough to get out of the parking lot 
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Jul 26, 2013 20:33
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Drove a v6 base (and I mean base) this weekend at the beach. For whatever reason the cloth seats are more comfortable to the wife and I. Anybody else echo those thoughts, or are we just crazy? We put around 300 miles on it so it wasn't exactly a short little jaunt...
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Jul 30, 2013 01:05
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I ordered a base trim (cloth seats) in my 11 GT and haven't regretted it once. The only thing I didn't like about the base was the plastic steering wheel. I replaced with a Bullitt leather wrapped steering wheel, so that was taken care of.
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Jul 30, 2013 14:55
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I had leather seats in my '07 and didn't like them all that much. Don't know if that changed in the 11+s or not.
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Jul 30, 2013 15:27
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I almost always prefer cloth seats to leather.
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Jul 31, 2013 20:23
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So question for you guys. I have a 2012 Black California Special with about 21k on the clock. Needless to say I have had a ton of problems with it. Lower control arms have been replaced twice, they just got done rebuilding the rear end for some metal on metal sound I have had for a while(they told me it was normal the first three times I took it in) and one blown engine. The car has been in the shop for over 40 days and counting(they told me it will be done Tuesday) in the last 11 months or so. Any way to make a long story short I have a lawyer and and trying to get ford to repurchase the car under the NC lemon law. The law is 20 business days out of service or 4 or more attempts to fix the same issue. So far they offered my 6k in cash and I keep the car. I told them to take a flying leap. Under the law if they have to repurchase the car I will get 32k - the 26k I still owe on it. I figure on a good day I would get 24 or so for a trade probably 22 on the low end. So that 6k offer leaves me with about 2-4k. I have no real idea on the auction value on this thing but I'm guessing if they had to repurchase the car it would probably cost them about 12-15k or so to do it. So AI how much would you hold out for or am I totally off on what they would they would sell the car for at auction?
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Aug 4, 2013 22:39
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Why worry about what they get for it auction? That's their problem
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Aug 5, 2013 05:48
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Tide posted:Why worry about what they get for it auction? That's their problem I know its their problem, however knowing how much the car is worth at auction would help me determine how much money to ask for in a cash settlement. mattwhoo fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 12:55
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mattwhoo posted:I know its their problem, however knowing how much the car is worth at auction would help me determine how much money to ask for in a cash settlement. Take it to carmax and ask for the difference between that and 32K.
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Aug 5, 2013 15:18
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mattwhoo posted:I know its their problem, however knowing how much the car is worth at auction would help me determine how much money to ask for in a cash settlement. AH. Gotcha.
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Aug 5, 2013 17:30
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My '00 GT's battery died I guess... I started it up no problem and drove it 16 miles home from work. Between stopping it at my house and going out an hour later, it woudn't start. Typical low battery trouble - relay clicking when it's trying to power up the Mach 460 amps, nothing/no lights when I hit the starter. It took a jump start from the truck but kept flashing the battery light when I hit the brakes/locks/windows/anything electric. The charge gauge on the dash is where it should be so it seems like the battery is simply not accepting any appreciable charge at all. Car has 86k mi, no idea on the age of the battery. Does that seem right? Do these cars tend to have sudden battery deaths? My Ranger telegraphed its battery failure pretty obviously, but it also has half the size engine and basically no electronics onboard so I guess that might make sense... good excuse to ride the Ulysses around though.
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Aug 6, 2013 21:49
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Go to Autozone or whatever and have them test your battery for free.
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Aug 7, 2013 05:02
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mattwhoo posted:So question for you guys. I have a 2012 Black California Special with about 21k on the clock. Needless to say I have had a ton of problems with it. Lower control arms have been replaced twice, they just got done rebuilding the rear end for some metal on metal sound I have had for a while(they told me it was normal the first three times I took it in) and one blown engine. The car has been in the shop for over 40 days and counting(they told me it will be done Tuesday) in the last 11 months or so. Any way to make a long story short I have a lawyer and and trying to get ford to repurchase the car under the NC lemon law. The law is 20 business days out of service or 4 or more attempts to fix the same issue. So far they offered my 6k in cash and I keep the car. I told them to take a flying leap. Under the law if they have to repurchase the car I will get 32k - the 26k I still owe on it. I figure on a good day I would get 24 or so for a trade probably 22 on the low end. So that 6k offer leaves me with about 2-4k. I have no real idea on the auction value on this thing but I'm guessing if they had to repurchase the car it would probably cost them about 12-15k or so to do it. So AI how much would you hold out for or am I totally off on what they would they would sell the car for at auction? I had much easier of a time getting Ford to offer to buy my car back, and I think it's because I didn't involve a lawyer. I know that's lovely but there it is. In the end I kept my car, but if there was ever a case for a buyback, this is it.
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Aug 7, 2013 17:05
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roger wilco posted:I had much easier of a time getting Ford to offer to buy my car back, and I think it's because I didn't involve a lawyer. I know that's lovely but there it is. In the end I kept my car, but if there was ever a case for a buyback, this is it. I attempted the nice guy route. Hell at one point I just tried to get them to trade me out of it (I know the dealership has no dog in the show). I followed all the steps in the owners manual and got nothing other then we will give you an extended warranty. At the time it was about 20 business days out of service. After I got a lawyer they took about 90 days to come back with the 6k offer. About 2 weeks before they sent the offer I took it back to the dealer for more work. It is still in the shop. The lawyer has rejected there offer and informed them of the current service. So I'm waiting to see what they say. Its been quite the lovely experience. I will say my biggest problem is going to be what to buy next when this piece of poo poo goes away.
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Aug 7, 2013 18:31
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I just changed the passenger rear caliper on my 04 GT and when we attached the end of the parking brake cable there was less slack than on the old one. My brake handle is also much tighter too, theres no play on it at all whereas before there was at least inch/inch and a half. Anyone ever adjust their cable before? I dont have a haynes manual yet, but after googling it looks like this can be done via taking the center console apart.
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Aug 8, 2013 03:13
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I just got the FRPP Sport axle-backs put on my '11 V6. It's not as good as I expected; it is, in fact, even better than I expected. It was totally, totally worth the money.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:28
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Got the mustang back, took them two tries to get it cosmetically satisfactory. So I drive it home, steering wheel is crooked. Awesome. Put it on a flat surface, sure enough the drivers side wheel has about a 1/2 inch more negative camber than the pax side. This is after I brought the wonky feeling steeringt to their attention from the first time I picked it up and they kept it 2 extra days and put 25 miles on it. Stay away from Treadwell Ford/AutoNation Collision in Mobile.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:13
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Cage posted:I just changed the passenger rear caliper on my 04 GT and when we attached the end of the parking brake cable there was less slack than on the old one. My brake handle is also much tighter too, theres no play on it at all whereas before there was at least inch/inch and a half. Anyone ever adjust their cable before? I dont have a haynes manual yet, but after googling it looks like this can be done via taking the center console apart. Someone posted this on another forum. Looks pretty straight-forward: quote:
Another trick you can try first is setting the e-brake a few times on level ground without touching the brakes. Just get in the car, put it in neutral, and use the e-brake a couple times without touching the brake pedal. If I remember right, this sets the slack/tension on the caliper.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:31
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Welp. Took the Mustang to the dealership Friday for an oil change, tire rotation, and check the alignment. The driver side camber was a half inch off (how the gently caress do you miss THAT in a 30 mile road test??) Drive away from the dealership, make a sharp right u turn in the dealership parking log - and scrapping/rubbing sound. Immediately go back, grab a service tech and take him for a ride. He hears it. Put it on the lift and take a look. Driver front tire is rubbing against the frame. Managed to have a face to face with the general manager and vent my frustrations who arranged for a rental car (Hyundai Genesis sedan - drat fine car).
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Aug 11, 2013 17:46
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Tide posted:Welp. Took the Mustang to the dealership Friday for an oil change, tire rotation, and check the alignment. The driver side camber was a half inch off (how the gently caress do you miss THAT in a 30 mile road test??) Drive away from the dealership, make a sharp right u turn in the dealership parking log - and scrapping/rubbing sound. Immediately go back, grab a service tech and take him for a ride. He hears it. Put it on the lift and take a look. Driver front tire is rubbing against the frame. Managed to have a face to face with the general manager and vent my frustrations who arranged for a rental car (Hyundai Genesis sedan - drat fine car). Jesus dude, did you sleep with the tech's wife? This is insane and I would be murder angry at this point.
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Aug 11, 2013 21:50
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I am really freaking close to hiring a lawyer. Thus far, the timeline has been: July 19 - Accident, towed for repair Aug 06 - Notified car fixed, picked up. inspection revealed trash in the paint, new crease in the door, and weird feeling steering. Immediately returned it to fix. Aug 08 - Notified car was fixed, steering still feels weird. Bring it to our office/warehouse and inspect. Paint/door fixed. Steering is still "off". Can eyeball that drivers front camber is off, confirmed via road test that requires steering to be turned slightly left to go straight. Dealer/repair put 30 miles of roadtesting on it and didn't notice this?? Aug 09 - Returned to dealer (who also did repairs) for oil change, tire rotation, and bitch/complain/show them the steering issues. Aug 10 - Notified car is "fixed". Picked it up, road test confirms steering is straight. However, drivers front tire rubs against frame when turning right. I have no idea where we stand now.
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Aug 12, 2013 16:09
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wallaka posted:Go to Autozone or whatever and have them test your battery for free. This sounds like good advice on paper. Autozone guy: I think my tester is broken, hey other autozone guy bring this to the back and test it on the big tester. Other autozone guy: I think my tester is broken. Maybe O'Reilly can test it for you? O'reilly guy: It won't test, I can put it on the charger and test it in an hour. Alright. O'reilly guy (an hour later): your battery is all good, here you go. So I put it in the car and nothing. Battery is flat. Took it to Batteries Plus and they told me it had 50CCA, rated at 540. Time for a new battery. I got one rated at 590CCA. UPGRAYEDD
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Aug 12, 2013 19:31
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On the HVAC dial, are "off" and "vent" the only positions that do not run the AC compressor? The other positions are A/c, Max a/c, windshield, mix, and floor. I almost always have it on vent but today I had it blowing on the floor and noticed that both the air was pretty cold and the engine was acting like the AC was on. This is a 2000 and I assume the HVAC logic applies to other ford vehicles of the same vintage. My truck has the same dials but no AC so I've never got cold air out of its floor vents.
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Aug 15, 2013 01:44
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clutchpuck posted:On the HVAC dial, are "off" and "vent" the only positions that do not run the AC compressor?
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Aug 15, 2013 03:47
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