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Ravenfood posted:Cool, so they didn't stretch too much after you bought them? That was really my only concern, since I don't really have the cash and I figure that after they stretch after use I can't very well return them. Maybe a LITTLE bit? I got them very snug, and they still fit pretty nicely. No looseness. Like I said, the only negative point is the toe rubber giving out. Otherwise, great entry shoe. I'm just starting to get to the point where I notice they aren't quite aggressive enough to tackle the really tiny holds well, but that's not a thing you should worry about if you don't have any shoes yet. I might get another more aggressive pair soon and leave these as comfy basic shoes.
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Aug 7, 2013 02:58
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Pander posted:Like I said, the only negative point is the toe rubber giving out. Otherwise, great entry shoe. I'm not sure how frequently you climb, but a year of climbing on any shoe is going to wear a small hole in the toe rubber. I wouldn't count that as a negative at all, it's just how it is. If you want to get them resoled, you should stop climbing on them before the hole wears into the leather though.
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Aug 7, 2013 03:02
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Students in tonight's intro climbing class:
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Aug 7, 2013 06:58
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Chroisman posted:I want to build a free standing hangboard thing for home to use outside and stuff, and I was wondering if anyone here as cobbled together anything similar at home if I could get some opinions on the ideas I have. A while back I started out looking for ways to set up a free standing hangboard and kept on expanding on the idea until I wound up building this monstrosity:  Which can be dismantled in theory but will probably prove to be an absolute nightmare when I do move house. When I was building it I did come across descriptions of modular designs that could be fully dismantled using structural pine, plywood and bolts. An engineer friend of mine did suggest using metal tubing to reduce the weight but it looked like it was going to be a bit more complex than I felt confident with. If you're looking at attaching a board with holds to it at some stage I'd suggest considering an overhang to get the most out of it. Mine is 30 degrees overhung and I find that hard enough but I've seen others over 45. Depending on space maybe you could consider something like this:  Otherwise, I've seen videos of hangboards hanging from slings attached to carports, etc. Not perfect perhaps but better than nothing. Or if you have the right sort of doorframe you could try a blank slate:  If you're in Sydney Climbing Anchors has them listed (although they're currently out of stock due to the poor condition of the AUD).
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Aug 7, 2013 13:16
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Year of the Monkey posted:
It looks like all the upper holds will be useless because your wrists will sit on the giant protruding hangboard.
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Aug 7, 2013 14:47
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That reminds me, since I bought a house I was planning on making a bouldering wall in my basement going up and across the ceiling, but then I started working at a rock gym so what's the point? Still a roof climb is probably the best use of limited space if you have an unfinished basement.
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Aug 7, 2013 18:42
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modig posted:It looks like all the upper holds will be useless because your wrists will sit on the giant protruding hangboard. I think that board allows you to move the holds around at will. They did pick a really stupid set for the demo pictures though.
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Aug 7, 2013 19:35
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The Self-Coached Climber is free for Kindle.
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Aug 7, 2013 19:44
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Today is the first day that I finished a problem I couldn't do before. Two, in fact. That's a pretty great feeling.
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Aug 8, 2013 00:41
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Bud Manstrong posted:The Self-Coached Climber is free for Kindle. I'm seeing a 'not available for purchase' - looks like it might have been a mistake?
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Aug 8, 2013 11:21
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It's region specific and only works on US-registered Kindles.
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Aug 8, 2013 14:51
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Ah, that's annoying - thanks.
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Aug 8, 2013 14:54
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Got on The Young and The Rackless on Blob Rock to practice for Royal Flush. Excellent climbing early in the morning with perfect weather - not too cool, and we got to see the sun peeking over the canyon walls as we hit the last pitch. Gorgeous stuff. A definite must if you have the time to run up (around 3 hours car to car). Also, climbed right past a raptor nest. Empty, but you could see all of the craziness you'd expect in a raptor nest. Thankfully, the eagle had flown past us about thirty minutes earlier while we were on the first pitch. And now, terrible photography: View from the top.  View from the last anchors.  View from the bottom:  Here's a look at the nest:  gamera009 fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Aug 9, 2013 |
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Aug 9, 2013 19:54
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^ We went across the street from you to Cob rock Sunday morning. Climbed "North Face Center" (lamest name for a climb ever) with the 5.7+ crack finish. Holyshit! this was my hardest trad lead yet. 5.7+ my rear end. If you ever find yourself on a Layton Kor route remember he was a known sandbagger in the 50s and 60s when 5.10 was the hardest climb around. FYI this is the Second Layton Kor 5.7 that kicked my rear end, I can't wait until the next! This route humbled me and my partner. I have been thinking I need to push my trad leading and get up a grade or two. "poo poo, I'm leading 5.10s in the gym and top roping a few 5.11s" I am now in no rush to get past of 5.7 / 5.8. Good bye ego. It was the perfect combo of physical and mental challenge. The second pitch, my lead, was a awesome hand crack with good pro, but just hand / fist jams. No face holds and no real feet, just smears and a few toe jams. Very exposed. Pucker moments for sure! Cob rock:  Panoramic image from bottom of climb:  Starting up:  Can't help but cheese it up with instagram:  Topping out the hand crack:  Creek crossing, never done one of these before, it was fun! 
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Aug 13, 2013 06:30
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spandexcajun posted:
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Aug 13, 2013 15:18
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Welp. Booked the day off on Thursday to go do this thing. We're planning on the Aces High start early in the morning to link into the rest of Royal Flush. Shouldn't be too hard, hopefully. I just want the endurance training. 
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Aug 13, 2013 15:50
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That route looks unironically awesome. I rarely get to see many sports multi-pitches in the UK as we are a trad mad nation when it comes to our climbing. The whole idea of alternative pitches for harder climbing alongside a generally cool route is really nice, and the belays look tres excellente. I do get tired of trad multi pitches sometime, they're just so much faff with directional pull pieces and such. I would like to visit Colorado at some point in the next few years once I save up some more money.
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Aug 14, 2013 14:01
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:That route looks unironically awesome. I rarely get to see many sports multi-pitches in the UK as we are a trad mad nation when it comes to our climbing. The whole idea of alternative pitches for harder climbing alongside a generally cool route is really nice, and the belays look tres excellente. I do get tired of trad multi pitches sometime, they're just so much faff with directional pull pieces and such. Multiple climbing goons out this way. I'm sure someone can guide you around. My money is on modig since he is all up in the climbing of rocks and has superior gear to many of us. Also, he is tall and can reach difficult first clips without a stick-clip. Barring that, maybe spwrozek. Don't trust Discomancer. He will give bad beta and then make you haul him up the rock. And then he will eat a Builder bar and comment on how relaxed the pitch was. (He will climb hung over)  I will get you lost, climb poorly, and increase your risk of having to bail or dying by 3. But I am an excellent fishing guide! 
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Aug 14, 2013 15:26
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Last night I got a flapper on my hand below where my pinky finger starts. Here is a picture. I have been starting to work on more problems with slopers and this was the result. Does anyone have any tips on how to tape it? I want to climb tomorrow but only if I can figure out how to keep it taped up well.
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Aug 14, 2013 16:46
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who cares posted:Last night I got a flapper on my hand below where my pinky finger starts. Here is a picture. I have been starting to work on more problems with slopers and this was the result. If you haven't cut off the flap, then use superglue to put it back in place. Works fine for me and most climbers I know use it. If you already cut it off and cleaned everything, I would use some NuSkin or superglue to make a patch that covers it well. Taping over it is possible, but it typically means wrapping the whole goddamn thing. I prefer to either lay off it or just put a new "skin" over it with superglue. YMMV
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Aug 14, 2013 17:30
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gamera009 posted:If you haven't cut off the flap, then use superglue to put it back in place. Works fine for me and most climbers I know use it. Or just do what I do and don't get flappers 
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Aug 14, 2013 18:33
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TotallyUnoriginal posted:Or just do what I do and don't get flappers Believe me, I try! I will give superglue a shot. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Aug 14, 2013 18:36
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who cares posted:Believe me, I try! I have weird skin, it never tears no matter how much I punish it but I've found that it wears away faster than others. This makes me hate slopers.
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Aug 14, 2013 19:21
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I tried liquid bandage on the flappers I got last time I went climbing...that poo poo hurt worse than my throat tattoo.
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Aug 14, 2013 20:59
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gamera009 posted:Multiple climbing goons out this way. I'm sure someone can guide you around. My money is on modig since he is all up in the climbing of rocks and has superior gear to many of us. Also, he is tall and can reach difficult first clips without a stick-clip. Hey come on, half of that is a lie, my beta is okay heel hook it
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Aug 15, 2013 00:58
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Discomancer posted:Hey come on, half of that is a lie, my beta is okay heel hook it To be fair, it is an acceptable bouldering beta crutch.
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Aug 15, 2013 02:45
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I've started with preventative medicine for flappers. I just trim the calluses down with a nail clipper every few weeks as I seem to have hands which refuse to turn into rhinohide but just stay permanently callused and have done for years.
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Aug 15, 2013 18:14
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:I've started with preventative medicine for flappers. I just trim the calluses down with a nail clipper every few weeks as I seem to have hands which refuse to turn into rhinohide but just stay permanently callused and have done for years. Yeah I find filing them down pre-session to be helpful too, especially if I'm going to be campusing.
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Aug 15, 2013 22:06
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Finished the Aces High variation of the Royal Flush. So it went really well. Pretty cruiser - we managed to use all of the 5.10 variants when we could, particularly the Aces High variant at the headwall. Verdict: classy and well worth the effort. And now, the photojournalism: View from the parking lot:  View from the base of the first pitch:  We ended up having to wait for two parties before us. Not too bad though - both were fairly quick. Not much to say, other than the view was amazing from nearly every set of anchors:      But especially the summit block:  Anyone that wants to hit multipitch and be greatly rewarded should do this climb. You will regret not doing it. It is more fun than you think.
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Aug 16, 2013 03:54
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Apparently this is A Thing in the Netherlands
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Aug 16, 2013 06:21
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It sure is. I climbed it when I was out there two years or so ago. The square-ish building behind it is actually a huge climbing gym. It was raining when we went so we climbed inside for a few hours until there was a break in the rain. They let us then rush out and climb the tower even though everything was still wet. If you are ever nearby, I recommend spending a day there. There is an awesome roof section inside the gym that extends for maybe 25 feet with a few routes that run out along it.
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Aug 16, 2013 14:16
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gamera009 posted:
I clicked through for more beta, but all I got was some fool fishing.
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Aug 16, 2013 16:27
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modig posted:I clicked through for more beta, but all I got was some fool fishing. Protip: Stick to the set labeled "Mount Royal."
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Aug 16, 2013 18:55
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ante posted:Apparently this is A Thing in the Netherlands    I was a pilot, and have no real fear of heights. I've climbed 120' buildings before, but man. That looks nuts. Plain nuts.
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Aug 16, 2013 18:59
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Pander posted:
Try climbing the overhung side when it's wet, the sky is ominous, and the winds are whipping around you. There was no lightning or I would have never dared, but it was an experience none-the-less. Edit: I remember the sky being darker than this. It is probably a bit blown out in this photo.  Edit2: Here is the interior roof section  A view of some of the inside from the balcony seen in the previous image  And another interior view also from the balcony  The room with this roof section is roughly square, and the walls to the left and right are full of routes as well. If you go back through the doorway there is a large bouldering area in the back. Outside there are a number of other bouldering areas as well. armorer fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 19:20
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Good Dog.
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Aug 16, 2013 20:24
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pokchu posted:Good Dog. The best dog is a belay dog.
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Aug 17, 2013 00:40
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I am introducing friends to the hobby, with some success. A lot of them are fit and take to it no problem, but I have one friend who -- although she has been very gung-ho -- is having a lot of trouble getting going because she's out of shape. She isn't even doing routes right now, just using whatever handholds are handy, and still can't reliably get up the wall, and generally only manages 1-2 attempts per evening. She's upbeat about it, not getting discouraged or anything, and she loves it enough to buy gear and everything already. So that's great. But I'm a little worried she'll get discouraged. I try to give her technique advice and be motivating, but I'd welcome advice on helping her improve, if any of you guys have experience getting people who aren't in top form started.
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Aug 18, 2013 02:42
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ante posted:Apparently this is A Thing in the Netherlands Man I wonder how often they set new routes on that monster.
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Aug 18, 2013 03:47
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guppy posted:I am introducing friends to the hobby, with some success. A lot of them are fit and take to it no problem, but I have one friend who -- although she has been very gung-ho -- is having a lot of trouble getting going because she's out of shape. She isn't even doing routes right now, just using whatever handholds are handy, and still can't reliably get up the wall, and generally only manages 1-2 attempts per evening. Just be supportive. That's all you can really do, honestly. If they get discouraged, try to be supportive. Don't start with gastons or stepthroughs or any of that poo poo. Just encourage them to give it another go. If they're cashed out, hang out with them and stretch or grab some beers or something. In general, it seems like people who are serious about it will figure out that a lot of the game is mental and working through it is part of the process.
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Aug 18, 2013 03:53
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