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Angry Grimace
Jul 29, 2010

ACTUALLY IT IS VERY GOOD THAT THE SHOW IS BAD AND ANYONE WHO DOESN'T REALIZE WHY THAT'S GOOD IS AN IDIOT. JUST ENJOY THE BAD SHOW INSTEAD OF THINKING.

wildfire1 posted:

Is there any real reason to dry hop with half the hops for 3-4 days, then dry hop with the rest? Should I just put it all in 3-4 days before bottling?

You want more than 3 or 4 days on the hops. I can't tell you exactly why, but putting in a gigantic 5 ounce charge doesn't seem to work as well for me as staggering them over 7-14 days.

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Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

Some people feel you start to get a real grassy, unpleasant character from the hops if they sit in there longer than a week or two. So putting in a hop bag for 4 days, pulling it out and adding fresh hops for round 2 is a possible workaround. Of course other people say they leave a sack of dry hops in the keg for a month and don't notice any negative effects. Best thing to do is just try it for yourself.

There was actually just an episode of the Brew Strong podcast about this exact topic. Commercial brewers have found multiple dry hops additions to be more efficient. When you're talking about 100lbs of hops into a huge rear end conical fermenter, a lot of them quickly settle to the bottom and are buried, receiving no contact with the beer and contributing nothing. Doing 2 or 3 staggered additions mitigates this problem. On a 5 gallon scale this is probably irrelevant, though.

wattershed
Dec 27, 2002

Radio got his free iPod, did you get yours???
This is terribly anecdotal but for a while all my IPAs were done by making one dry hop addition, leaving them in there for a week or two, and calling it a day. I then did the Kern River Citra clone recipe that's out there and it calls for adding hops on day one, pulling on day 4 and replacing with another load for 3 more days, etc until 12 days had gone by. Also, doing it in a completely sealed off environment, no airlock. That beer was DIVINE.

So, does it matter, can you make a good beer with a one & done approach? Absolutely. Will I be staggering my hop additions and saving the dry hop step for the very end before I transfer to the keg? Every time now, yes.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
If I were to go the "just throw the pellets in there and let them settle out" approach for dry hopping, I imagine I would still get value out of tossing them in every 3 days or whatever rather than pulling and replacing, right?

wattershed
Dec 27, 2002

Radio got his free iPod, did you get yours???

Mikey Purp posted:

If I were to go the "just throw the pellets in there and let them settle out" approach for dry hopping, I imagine I would still get value out of tossing them in every 3 days or whatever rather than pulling and replacing, right?

If one were to work off the (albeit shaky) principle that the value of a hop addition is in the first 96 hours it's in the vessel, and thereafter it can begin to contribute undesirable aromas and flavors, I suppose that holding off on adding all the hops at the start simply means they'll have less time to contribute off flavors by the time you're going to rack off the hop trub, so it's better in that case than adding them all at the start.

Supergluing a hook to the inside of a bucket lid makes the hop swap process a lot easier if you're going the plastic route.

fullroundaction
Apr 20, 2007

Drink beer every day
Midorka usually posts a dryhop efficiency study whenever this comes up that more or less states that there's no point in dryhopping for more than 1-2 days unless you have a really good reason to.

This seems to be agreeable with my experience, UNLESS I have a very long dryhopping schedule (2+weeks) with multiple additions, in which case I've been able to achieve much hoppier results.

e: If you think of it in terms of tea, which is something that most of us are familiar with, are you really going to extract more flavor if you let it steep for 5 days instead of 2? Probably not. But also it probably won't hurt.

fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Aug 15, 2013

Fluo
May 25, 2007

Some mates just came back from the Great British Beer Festival and was drinking the Foreign beers area, really want to try and do a Coconut Porter now but don't know where to start as I have no idea what you do to get the coconut flavour. :negative:

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

Fluo posted:

Some mates just came back from the Great British Beer Festival and was drinking the Foreign beers area, really want to try and do a Coconut Porter now but don't know where to start as I have no idea what you do to get the coconut flavour. :negative:

Add coconut?

zedprime
Jun 9, 2007

yospos

crazyfish posted:

Add coconut?

There's like 100 different ways to coc a nut. Flesh, milk, water, oil.

I'd probably lean toward oil or coconut rum just prior to packaging.

Josh Wow
Feb 28, 2005

We need more beer up here!
Get flaked coconut with no other additives then toast it on a baking sheet in the oven until it's golden. Add .5-1 pounds of that to your secondary in a mesh bag for a couple days.

Fluo
May 25, 2007

zedprime posted:

There's like 100 different ways to coc a nut. Flesh, milk, water, oil.

I'd probably lean toward oil or coconut rum just prior to packaging.

Ah ok thanks! Because I was thinking "just mushing up some coconuts and putting it in secondary is not really going to do much". Will try that out :3:!

Midorka
Jun 10, 2011

I have a pretty fucking good palate, passed BJCP and level 2 cicerone which is more than half of you dudes can say, so I don't give a hoot anymore about this toxic community.

fullroundaction posted:

Midorka usually posts a dryhop efficiency study whenever this comes up that more or less states that there's no point in dryhopping for more than 1-2 days unless you have a really good reason to.

This seems to be agreeable with my experience, UNLESS I have a very long dryhopping schedule (2+weeks) with multiple additions, in which case I've been able to achieve much hoppier results.

e: If you think of it in terms of tea, which is something that most of us are familiar with, are you really going to extract more flavor if you let it steep for 5 days instead of 2? Probably not. But also it probably won't hurt.

Yeah it's a great study. I can't see how staggering dry-hopping would be any better than simply tossing the total in at once. The oils will be extracted in 2-3 days regardless, but when staggering you're losing some of the oils that were from the first addition by the time you bottle since it'll have been sitting longer than a simple 3 day addition. I would wager that you guys above are experiencing better results because you're using more total, not because of the staggering.

fullroundaction
Apr 20, 2007

Drink beer every day
That's possible too. I've done the 2 week schedule a couple times because I had such great success with a Pliny clone a while back.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf

Lately I've just been using huge amounts (about equal to what was in the boil) for 5 days or so and been happy with the results.

Angry Grimace
Jul 29, 2010

ACTUALLY IT IS VERY GOOD THAT THE SHOW IS BAD AND ANYONE WHO DOESN'T REALIZE WHY THAT'S GOOD IS AN IDIOT. JUST ENJOY THE BAD SHOW INSTEAD OF THINKING.

Midorka posted:

Yeah it's a great study. I can't see how staggering dry-hopping would be any better than simply tossing the total in at once. The oils will be extracted in 2-3 days regardless, but when staggering you're losing some of the oils that were from the first addition by the time you bottle since it'll have been sitting longer than a simple 3 day addition. I would wager that you guys above are experiencing better results because you're using more total, not because of the staggering.

As much as I hate anecdotal evidence, I can't argue with results. I just think its way better with staggered additions.

fullroundaction posted:

That's possible too. I've done the 2 week schedule a couple times because I had such great success with a Pliny clone a while back.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf

Lately I've just been using huge amounts (about equal to what was in the boil) for 5 days or so and been happy with the results.
I'm on the last few days of a staggered 9 day dry hop with 6 oz. Let's see what it tastes like.

Midorka
Jun 10, 2011

I have a pretty fucking good palate, passed BJCP and level 2 cicerone which is more than half of you dudes can say, so I don't give a hoot anymore about this toxic community.

Angry Grimace posted:

As much as I hate anecdotal evidence, I can't argue with results. I just think its way better with staggered additions.

I have no scientific backing to my claims, other than pellet hops extracting their oils soon. Sorry if I came off as "I know this for a fact" I'm at work and probably shouldn't be posting because I feel rushed in my responses. What I know is, do what works for you. I'll likely stick to 1 step dry-hop additions of about 1 ounce per gallon for 3 days at ~70f.

One thing I have to stress, though, is to get the beer off the yeast before dry hopping. The yeast will scrub away at the hop oils.

ChickenArise
May 12, 2010

POWER
= MEAT +
OPPORTUNITY
= BATTLEWORMS

Josh Wow posted:

Get flaked coconut with no other additives then toast it on a baking sheet in the oven until it's golden. Add .5-1 pounds of that to your secondary in a mesh bag for a couple days.

RE: coconut, do this

Syrinxx
Mar 28, 2002

Death is whimsical today

Are goons still of the mind that for most ales, 3 weeks in the primary is just as good as 1 primary 2 secondary? I don't really feel like racking :effort:

Angry Grimace
Jul 29, 2010

ACTUALLY IT IS VERY GOOD THAT THE SHOW IS BAD AND ANYONE WHO DOESN'T REALIZE WHY THAT'S GOOD IS AN IDIOT. JUST ENJOY THE BAD SHOW INSTEAD OF THINKING.

Syrinxx posted:

Are goons still of the mind that for most ales, 3 weeks in the primary is just as good as 1 primary 2 secondary? I don't really feel like racking :effort:

I start dry hopping or rack at 9 days.

Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Aug 17, 2013

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Well,its done.

12lbs of honey mixed into almost 2gal of warm water.

Aerated the crap out of it,then topped off to 5 gal cold filtered water. Then aerated again.

Pitched two packs of rehydrated yeast. And I just got a cheap big tub to ferment colder then my current house temp of 72.

Crap I just realized I forgot a starting gravity.. better do that quick for the notes.

Daedalus Esquire
Mar 30, 2008

Syrinxx posted:

Are goons still of the mind that for most ales, 3 weeks in the primary is just as good as 1 primary 2 secondary? I don't really feel like racking :effort:

Racking is usually a useless extra step in ales. It's arguably beneficial for dry hopping, aging on fruits, or bulk aging high ABV beers.

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


Syrinxx posted:

Are goons still of the mind that for most ales, 3 weeks in the primary is just as good as 1 primary 2 secondary? I don't really feel like racking :effort:

I can't remember the last time I bothered with any sort of secondary. They only time I would even consider it is with a really huge beer that was going to be aged for more than 6 months and even then it would be iffy. For anything less it's just going to increase the chances of an infection and oxygenation with no benefit.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Just checked,I think I might have a slight krausen forming after 2 hrs.

Brix 21.3% / 1.083 OG which seems spot on for 12;bs of honey in a semi-sweet outcome.

if im doing math right i should pitch more nutrient when i drop 1/3 or .033 points ?

EDIT or i see a brix drop of 7.5 or just under 15

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 16, 2013

Midorka
Jun 10, 2011

I have a pretty fucking good palate, passed BJCP and level 2 cicerone which is more than half of you dudes can say, so I don't give a hoot anymore about this toxic community.
I secondary with every beer in which I'm adding anything to it. Hops, nibs, etc. Normally though I cold crash primary after ~2 weeks, then rack to my bottling bucket and cold crash that for another day to drop whatever extras I picked up while racking. I guess I shouldn't though since I stir when adding my priming sugar anyway.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
I just kegged a coconut porter a few days ago from the AHS kit. The recipe called for 1lb of unsweetened shredded coconut but I ended up using just about 2lb of fresh coconut that I shredded and toasted, and while my wife says it's amazing, I think it could be a little more coconuty. Still a very good beer though!

Shbobdb
Dec 16, 2010

by Reene

Daedalus Esquire posted:

Racking is usually a useless extra step in ales. It's arguably beneficial for dry hopping, aging on fruits, or bulk aging high ABV beers.

When I'm bottling, I like to rack to secondary just to help cut down on the yeast. Otherwise not much point.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I was sitting in my family room browsing the internet at one in the morning and I heard a PLINK from the basement. It was my first bottle bomb. It was a Belgian Wit I had carbed to about three volumes in a New Belgium bottle.

I kind of had a feeling those bottles were a little weak because I have broken a couple of them during my (rather intense) cleaning procedures. Luckily all the other beers in that batch were bottled in other types of bottles.

Twelve ounces of beer makes more of a mess than you might expect.

Midorka
Jun 10, 2011

I have a pretty fucking good palate, passed BJCP and level 2 cicerone which is more than half of you dudes can say, so I don't give a hoot anymore about this toxic community.
Remember that temperature of the beer at bottle carbing time is important.

THE LUMMOX
Nov 29, 2004
Hey goons thanks a lot for your last round of advice on my first brew (in a bag).

So I am this point now with my simple Pale Ale:


How the beer looks inside the fermenter. The line around the wall looks like hop gunk?

The fermenter. The counter is actually bleached clean it's just old and always looks dirty.

The airlock stopped bubbling a few days ago and it's been 8 days since I pitched the yeast. So I think I am ready to start bottling. Right? I know I have to add priming solution and get it into sanitized bottles. So how do I go about doing this?

I have no siphons nor any way of getting ones in a short time. My plan was to use the tap at the bottom of the fermenter to drain the wort (beer?) in the fermenter into my original giant boil pot (also sanitized). Then I was going to clean the fermenter and pour it from the boil pot back into the fermenter, add the priming solution and fill the bottles using the fermenter's tap.

My concerns are

1.) Do I need to filter this through a fine filter or something? The sediment line in my fermenter is below where the tap is mounted.
2.) Will pouring back and forth introduce a bunch of oxygen that will ruin my beer?
3.) Is my priming solution calculation correct? I just dissolve it in warm water and pour it in, right?

Thanks goons.

Nanpa
Apr 24, 2007
Nap Ghost

THE LUMMOX posted:

Hey goons thanks a lot for your last round of advice on my first brew (in a bag).

So I am this point now with my simple Pale Ale:


How the beer looks inside the fermenter. The line around the wall looks like hop gunk?

The fermenter. The counter is actually bleached clean it's just old and always looks dirty.

The airlock stopped bubbling a few days ago and it's been 8 days since I pitched the yeast. So I think I am ready to start bottling. Right? I know I have to add priming solution and get it into sanitized bottles. So how do I go about doing this?

I have no siphons nor any way of getting ones in a short time. My plan was to use the tap at the bottom of the fermenter to drain the wort (beer?) in the fermenter into my original giant boil pot (also sanitized). Then I was going to clean the fermenter and pour it from the boil pot back into the fermenter, add the priming solution and fill the bottles using the fermenter's tap.

My concerns are

1.) Do I need to filter this through a fine filter or something? The sediment line in my fermenter is below where the tap is mounted.
2.) Will pouring back and forth introduce a bunch of oxygen that will ruin my beer?
3.) Is my priming solution calculation correct? I just dissolve it in warm water and pour it in, right?

Thanks goons.

If you want an easier/lazier solution, you can just pour straight into the bottle and use sugar tabs

THE LUMMOX
Nov 29, 2004

Nanpa posted:

If you want an easier/lazier solution, you can just pour straight into the bottle and use sugar tabs

Thanks, but I'm in Korea so these sugar tab things might as well be on the moon considering the cost and time of shipping. The opening of the only Seoul homebrew shop is delayed again for several weeks due to all the grains being stuck in customs.

RagingBoner
Jan 10, 2006

Real Wood Pencil

THE LUMMOX posted:

Hey goons thanks a lot for your last round of advice on my first brew (in a bag).

So I am this point now with my simple Pale Ale:


How the beer looks inside the fermenter. The line around the wall looks like hop gunk?

The fermenter. The counter is actually bleached clean it's just old and always looks dirty.

The airlock stopped bubbling a few days ago and it's been 8 days since I pitched the yeast. So I think I am ready to start bottling. Right? I know I have to add priming solution and get it into sanitized bottles. So how do I go about doing this?

I have no siphons nor any way of getting ones in a short time. My plan was to use the tap at the bottom of the fermenter to drain the wort (beer?) in the fermenter into my original giant boil pot (also sanitized). Then I was going to clean the fermenter and pour it from the boil pot back into the fermenter, add the priming solution and fill the bottles using the fermenter's tap.

My concerns are

1.) Do I need to filter this through a fine filter or something? The sediment line in my fermenter is below where the tap is mounted.
2.) Will pouring back and forth introduce a bunch of oxygen that will ruin my beer?
3.) Is my priming solution calculation correct? I just dissolve it in warm water and pour it in, right?

Thanks goons.

That line around the top is called a krausen ring, and is a sign of a healthy yeast fermentation. When the yeast got going, it formed this gross foamy head called the krausen, and that is the dried remains of it.

8 days is a bit green to be bottling, I'd give it a minimum of 14... but that's just me (the generally recommended standard is 3 weeks, btw).

When you do get around to bottling, there are a few ways to get there. I'm guessing you don't have a bottling bucket. Do you have another sterile container to siphon your beer into? If so, gently siphon your beer from above the level of the trub in the bottom of the fermenter into that container, then clean your fermenter completely. Doing this means you won't really need to filter, because you are siphoning from above all that gunk. Next, add your sugar solution to the fermenter, and siphon back into fermenter, using the tap to fill your bottles. If you don't do this homogenization, you could end up with a few bottles COMPLETELY full of sediment, a few bottles way over carbonated, and a few bottles way under carbonated due to the different distributions of yeast throughout the solution.

A little bit of oxygen introduced at this point won't destroy your beer, unless you plan on bottle aging it for a few months (which won't really benefit anything in this case).

And you are correct on the priming sugar, it is very easy as long as it is evenly distributed throughout your beer during the homogenization step.

As a piece of general advice, next time get a bottling bucket so you have less transfer of beer back and forth and less potential for oxygenation. Or, if you have lots of money to burn on this, get a kegging setup and forget about bottling. Another piece of advice: generally speaking, your beers will improve every time you make one, as you are more comfortable with the steps involved, and know what to expect with your equipment. Worrying about oxygenation on your first batch is splitting hairs at this point: you made beer! And it's not bad!

Edit: Man, I hope you have a siphon, or are able to make one, because if not, this might get a little complicated.

RagingBoner fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Aug 16, 2013

Marshmallow Blue
Apr 25, 2010

Roundboy posted:

Well,its done.

12lbs of honey mixed into almost 2gal of warm water.

Aerated the crap out of it,then topped off to 5 gal cold filtered water. Then aerated again.

Pitched two packs of rehydrated yeast. And I just got a cheap big tub to ferment colder then my current house temp of 72.

Crap I just realized I forgot a starting gravity.. better do that quick for the notes.

The GotMead calculator would like to heal your wounds. 1.086,



Psuedo edit: Also how close was that calc to what you measured.

Yeah, mead will make small early krausen, settle down, then blow up into your airlock just cause it wants to.

Bloodborne
Sep 24, 2008

Reassurance. Somebody tell me I'm ok.

I brewed a stout and a belgian dubbel a couple months ago at this point. 2-3 I'm not even sure. Both are still sitting in their 6 gal carboys temp controlled for the last couple of weeks down to 35 as I was going to cold crash then keg rack but got side tracked.

Now, the thing is - I'm doing a 16 week cut to drop bodyfat where I won't be drinking beer. Should I:

Just leave it how it is for the next 4 months?
Rack it to the keg, purge O2 with CO2, keep it at around 55 temp controlled in the freezer?
Rack it, carb it, and just give it away as it'll just go bad and be a waste?

The brews:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/big-honkin-stout-extract-kit.html
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/le-petite-orange-limited-edition-extract-kit-w-specialty-grains.html

fullroundaction
Apr 20, 2007

Drink beer every day
You're okay letting them just sit in the carboys for the remainder. Everything will be fine (except for the fact that you won't be drinking beer for 4 months :gonk:)

THE LUMMOX
Nov 29, 2004

RagingBoner posted:


Edit: Man, I hope you have a siphon, or are able to make one, because if not, this might get a little complicated.

Thanks a lot for your help. I don't have a siphon nor an easy way to make one. I was planning on bottling by holding the bottle opening right up to the fermenter tap.

RagingBoner
Jan 10, 2006

Real Wood Pencil

Goonicus posted:

Reassurance. Somebody tell me I'm ok.

I brewed a stout and a belgian dubbel a couple months ago at this point. 2-3 I'm not even sure. Both are still sitting in their 6 gal carboys temp controlled for the last couple of weeks down to 35 as I was going to cold crash then keg rack but got side tracked.

Now, the thing is - I'm doing a 16 week cut to drop bodyfat where I won't be drinking beer. Should I:

Just leave it how it is for the next 4 months?
Rack it to the keg, purge O2 with CO2, keep it at around 55 temp controlled in the freezer?
Rack it, carb it, and just give it away as it'll just go bad and be a waste?

The brews:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/big-honkin-stout-extract-kit.html
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/le-petite-orange-limited-edition-extract-kit-w-specialty-grains.html

I vote option 4: rack it, keg it, carb it, and keep it stored cold on pressure. Everything I've heard says that beer stored cold on pressure basically never goes bad. In fact, I've heard from the guys at the LHBS that they bought a bunch of used, supposedly empty sanke kegs from a shipping company. Apparently the kegs were paid to be shipped, but then something went wrong with the addressee and they never cleared it up, so they just sat around for 2-3 years. On an asphalt parking lot. In Arkansas weather.

Anyway, they got the kegs and they were actually full of perfectly delicious imported Bass Ale and English cider.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Marshmallow Blue posted:

The GotMead calculator would like to heal your wounds. 1.086,



Psuedo edit: Also how close was that calc to what you measured.

Yeah, mead will make small early krausen, settle down, then blow up into your airlock just cause it wants to.

i replied later, but pretty drat close.

Brix : 21.3% which is showing 1.083 on my refractometer. Adjusted for temperature i assume.

I saw krausen and yeast bubbling this morning < 12 hours in, so i went ahead and threw in the appropriate amount of yeast nutrient. The first tablespoon full caused a HUGE reaction as it seemed all the yeast bubbled up in the first 2 inches of the must.

And playing with that calculator, its possible that the difference in 1.086 and 083 was any remaining honey in the tub, and maybe a slightly > 5 gal fill.


edit : yeah, try 11.9 lbs honey and 5.2 gal volume.. 1.083

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Aug 16, 2013

RagingBoner
Jan 10, 2006

Real Wood Pencil

THE LUMMOX posted:

Thanks a lot for your help. I don't have a siphon nor an easy way to make one. I was planning on bottling by holding the bottle opening right up to the fermenter tap.

Man, I was afraid you'd say that. Without racking off and homogenizing your beer, you won't end up with the best product you could have had.

I bet you could make a siphon, and don't even know it. Is there a hardware store around that you could buy some vinyl tubing? Or a pet store where you could get some aquarium tubing? You can make a perfectly fine siphon out of a nylon barb tee and a couple lengths of aquarium tubing: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/flyguys-t-siphon-3-replacement-autosiphon-25774/

Failing that, you could make one out of just the tubing itself by siphoning it with your mouth.

Marshmallow Blue
Apr 25, 2010

Roundboy posted:

i replied later, but pretty drat close.

Brix : 21.3% which is showing 1.083 on my refractometer. Adjusted for temperature i assume.

And playing with that calculator, its possible that the difference in 1.086 and 083 was any remaining honey in the tub, and maybe a slightly > 5 gal fill.

edit : yeah, try 11.9 lbs honey and 5.2 gal volume.. 1.083

That's reassuring. I use that calc when I add fruits and stuff because taking gravity with a pile of Jam on the bottom of your fermenter isn't very accurate.

Edit: @Mouth siphon, This is good news, I need a way to rack my Lambic meads and I don't wanna buy another racking cane. And if any gets in my mouth, that's kind of like a small victory because it tastes great.

Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Aug 16, 2013

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
so now im just waiting till my 1/3rd drop.. and possibly pitching something to adjust Ph level ?

uggghh i just thought about stuffing all this blueberry mash into the next carboy :/


EDIT: Also how well does this need to get stirred up? Im sloshing it all around just like i aerated (with the airlock still on) but im not sure im really mixing up at the bottom. Do i need to get a wand or something in there to churn up the bottom ?

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Aug 16, 2013

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