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krushgroove posted:I can't find anything on the Wayland Games site with the discount, and they don't carry Dark Potential (MWG's sci-fi game) but here's the announcement from MWG back in May: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/mwg-fundraiser-update-wayland-games-partnership-new-tshirts Probably off topic but has anyone tried Dark Potential? How does it play?
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Aug 15, 2013 19:27
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Verdugo posted:Probably off topic but has anyone tried Dark Potential? How does it play? You can get the newest version of the rules here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6x9cm7g0qr11470/Dark%20Potential%20Beta%20Rules%20Latest%20Version.pdf I haven't played it yet, but probably will when I get the starter pack I was lucky enough to win in the oath thread. It's hard to say for sure, but the rules seems clunky. For example, each mini has 12 different stats plus 5 more for each weapon. That's a whole lotta stats...
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Aug 15, 2013 19:51
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E: wrong thread
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Aug 15, 2013 21:53
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Quick question: When mixing colors, do I thin each color with water first or mix the colors dry and then thin it out?
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Aug 15, 2013 22:24
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I tend to mix before thinning because paints have different consistencies, and thinning after you mix saves some time.
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Aug 15, 2013 22:36
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stabbington posted:I tend to mix before thinning because paints have different consistencies, and thinning after you mix saves some time. Excellent, thank you. Seems like common sense but I'm completely new to this so I'll probably have an array of stupid questions before the day is done.
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Aug 15, 2013 22:38
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Hellbeard posted:This is the best GS one that I've read: Many thanks for that link! Lots of good tips in there I want to try out next time I break out the green stuff. Have you tried casting any of your custom models yet? Love a good tutorial on how to make your own molds n' such.
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Aug 16, 2013 10:31
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thiswayliesmadness posted:Many thanks for that link! Lots of good tips in there I want to try out next time I break out the green stuff. Have you tried casting any of your custom models yet? Love a good tutorial on how to make your own molds n' such. Yeah, it's the best one about Green Stuff that's out there in my opinion. I have attempted casting at home with the conclusion that for producing quality casts there's an entry level investment that's quite heavy. In short, for polyurethane casts in silicone molds you'd need a pressure chamber (which might be fatal or maim you if you try to build your own without proper expertise) and a vacuum chamber; aside from the "chemicals": A/B silicone for mold making and A/B polyurethane that's fit for casting miniatures. For metal casting there's a different type of mold making setup which is either a pressure chamber for cold vulcanization or a heated clamp thing for hot vulcanization and or a wax injection machine, a centrifuge(with plaster and silicate) and a kiln. The result being that if you intend to do small production runs or don't want to invest and study the specialized techniques where you might not be good at them, might take too much time and might require further unknown measures, your best bet is to send off to a casting service. There is a benefit for keeping production totally in house but that requires a level of business planning that I can't wrap my head around. If you want to cast for home or gaming use you might do fine with just the RTV silicone for molds and the A/B polyurethane but keep in mind you'll have to do some work to fix the casts and do multiple casts until you luck out and get some right. A good tip for that is to use some talcum powder to help get rid of surface bubbles. As for posing for self shots: you want to wear clothes and gear that's as close to what you want to sculpt because then you can get references for wrinkles and folds and where fabric pinches and how the gear rests which greatly enhances the believability of the model.
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Aug 16, 2013 10:51
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That link was ace. After googling around a bit I found that there were lots of good videos about proportions and such for clay sculpting. Should give some good starting guidelines at least. Is there any specific advantage to begin at the 32 mm scale, or is it easier to start off at 54 mm or bigger?
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Aug 16, 2013 11:51
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Arlaharen posted:That link was ace. After googling around a bit I found that there were lots of good videos about proportions and such for clay sculpting. Should give some good starting guidelines at least. Either has its own qualities and both share some aspects. If your final goal is 28-32mm I recommend trying that first. Then you can learn what are the technical and stylistic properties of the scale you want to work in.
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Aug 16, 2013 11:54
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I'm looking for a spray paint that matches Mechanicus Standard Gray. I've been painting up some marines but the thought of doing more then this one rhino with a brush really turns me off. Bonus ebay rescue rhino photo. 
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Aug 16, 2013 15:50
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Anyone know how well 35mm regular scale would match 28mm heroic scale? http://www.miniaturemarket.com/table-top-miniatures/knight-models.html Some of these could make neat count-as for 40k, if you want to get creative/silly. Either way they look nice if you got a boner for batman, or the awesome batman games.
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Aug 16, 2013 17:17
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will blow your mind.
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I've always wondereed something: why are 1:72 scale models not done in "wargaming" style? I found a sweet VE-1 macross model that I want to paint up but when I look at completed pictures of it, people seem to only put down a basecoat. Maybe some weathering but nothing similar to how people typically paint their warham vehicles. It's really odd. Looking at my 1/72 X-Wing model that comes with a pilot, who's slightly smaller than 28mm, so it should be similar to painting a rhino or Dakkajet. Plenty of those models have decent highlighting, washing, and fading (blending/layering) techniques applied to them, as can be seen in Golden Demon entries, but not to similarly-scaled military models. I think it looks great as long as the highlight isn't a thick line that makes the vehicle look like it came from Tron. (I seriously don't get why people do that on their warhams. I guess it looks OK on Tau, since they have a near-future look, but looks like butt on most other things.) Why is this? Is it just a different culture?
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Aug 16, 2013 21:15
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Look harder, we stole most of the weathering techniques from the military scale modelers.
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Aug 16, 2013 21:30
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Take a look through http://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&type=photos and you'll see plenty of weathering examples.
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Aug 16, 2013 21:33
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Hellbeard posted:Forgotten Zoidberg Model Do you happen to do other goofy models upon request? Because I need me a Catbug.  Everyone needs a Catbug.
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Aug 16, 2013 22:14
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Sorry I should have clarified. I know they love doing weathering but haven't seen any examples of highlighting like the gallery showed. It's probably that I'm steeped in 40k forums so I know where to look for golden demon entries and not great military/sci-fi models. So all I was used to was seeing the equivalent of unwatered-down paint
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Aug 16, 2013 23:47
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Ah, that one IS a different culture. The thing is that wargaming models are often deliberately overdone to pop on the table. Scale models are not supposed to do that, but look pretty on a shelf or on photos. Besides, edge highlighting and similar stuff are hardly scale-realistic. As we've started to weather vehicles etc., they started to use our shading/highlighting methods for human figures. Those are your best bet if you want to find wargaming painting techniques in scale modeling. And if you simply want to see some highlighted tanks, go visit a Flames of War (or other historical gaming) forum. They have similar painting goals to what we do. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 23:53
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I think a lot of the modelling folks use enamels instead of acrylics. That might be irrelevant, though.
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Aug 16, 2013 23:59
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Can't remember who it was that was using a yellow base followed with ink washes for ork skin, but it finally inspired me to start painting my boyz a handful at a time.
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Aug 17, 2013 02:20
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Could I get some feedback? I’m trying to make my army look like iron warriors who’ve been in 100s of battles during the crusade, got lost in the warp, then suddenly appeared in 40k. This is my final test model. After this I’m gona’ paint a bunch of expensive resin so critiques are really welcome. I’m less happy with this guy than the dude I painted before him. He’s just not as clean and my highlights didn’t pop as much. I’d love feedback though. I think the white turned out too flat and the armor plates (which are black, compared to the blue grey of the segmented pieces) doesn’t show at all- so I’ll need to push them more. First time using custom decals:    It took me 11 test models to get here and I had to learn stuff like oil paints and hairspray weathering to get results I wanted. This is the best model I think I’ve ever painted, even if he wasn’t my most recent:    This is where I was a few months ago:  But I kept painting, experimenting, and trying new techniques:  It’s been a long road! My first mini, then 6 months later:  Group shot (front row to the left is the order I painted them):  Now I’m finally going to paint my iron warriors legion. Gods help me. I need to learn how to take photos along the way. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 17, 2013 03:00
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Sole.Sushi posted:Do you happen to do other goofy models upon request? Because I need me a Catbug. This is amazing and I kind of want to steal it for my avatar.
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Aug 17, 2013 06:32
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BULBASAUR posted:Could I get some feedback? I’m trying to make my army look like iron warriors who’ve been in 100s of battles during the crusade, got lost in the warp, then suddenly appeared in 40k. This is my final test model. After this I’m gona’ paint a bunch of expensive resin so critiques are really welcome. These are awesome looking! I really like how the edges of the armor looks like metal that has been colored from extreme heat.
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Aug 17, 2013 07:32
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Anyone know how well 35mm regular scale would match 28mm heroic scale? 35mm is very obviously bigger. I was watching some people at the FLGS play Dust, and the minis for that are 35mm. For comparison, the top of a marine's helmet will come up to the top of 35mm's chest or the bottom of the neck, as well as the 35mm being about a quarter to half again as wide. It could work for things that are not people, like mechs or exosuits or what have you, but infantry is going to look really off.
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Aug 17, 2013 11:19
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related to the greenstuff and sculpting questions- I'm starting to use greenstuff myself and I'm getting better with it. However I'm doing up some models for a PnP game and I would really like to make a mounted version of my little dude. How would I best accomplish this?
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Aug 17, 2013 11:31
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Really depends on the little dude concerned. More information necessary.
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Aug 17, 2013 11:49
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I actually just oathed some DUST and Mantic Warpath guys last month, converting the DUST guys as exo-armor: The three power-armored mutants on the left started as 35mm Dust guys, while the mutants on the right were native 28mm heroics. Takkaryx is completely right - they work for certain oversized figures or non-personnel models, but they won't blend in without some effort.
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Aug 17, 2013 11:59
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thespaceinvader posted:Really depends on the little dude concerned. More information necessary. I went at this model with some greenstuff to make him a little more personalized, but this is the model I would like to make a mounted version of: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/dingo/latest/14047
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Aug 17, 2013 12:26
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Quantumfate posted:I went at this model with some greenstuff to make him a little more personalized, but this is the model I would like to make a mounted version of: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/dingo/latest/14047 Do you want to sculpt it from scratch or convert existing models? Converting will probably be easier and produce more pleasing immediate results.
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Aug 17, 2013 12:48
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Whichever really, I have honestly no clue where to begin with this project. It sounds dumb, but I am pretty lost with how to go about any part of it because the pose seems ill suited for sticking on a dog or something. To get my thoughts more in order, is there a tutorial on sculpting animals or advice for sculpting animal poses for running/mount animals, what about a suitable tack? Is there a suitable small dog someone makes that I can use as a base. Is grabbing a second copy of the model I'm using the best route? Where would I begin to approach trimming up or cutting apart the model to make it look fittingly mounted. Etc etc etc.
Quantumfate fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 17, 2013 13:33
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Pierzak posted:Ah, that one IS a different culture. The thing is that wargaming models are often deliberately overdone to pop on the table. Scale models are not supposed to do that, but look pretty on a shelf or on photos. Besides, edge highlighting and similar stuff are hardly scale-realistic. That makes a lot of sense. Having your collection be made mostly of larger vehicle models, they have natural highlights from light at that size anyway. It still seems odd to me since people do go through all that amazing effort to make GD entries that are usually designed to sit on the shelf or look good in photos, especially with OSL and NMM. By that I mean I love overdone GD entries and I think they still look good on a shelf. Also I forgot that Flames of War existed. I'll take a look there and compare photos and extrapolate. Vehicles in 40k have all sorts of oddly-sized weapons and features so comparing it, even if it's a similar scale, is weird. I was mostly asking to see what a "wargaming style" Gundam or Macross mech with exaggerated highlights would look like next to a "traditional" style one with just basecoats. I wouldn't want to end up with a Macross model that I painted using the same style as I paint my Tau mechs but ends up looking really weird. I guess in the end it's really up to the painter and what they think looks good. (Except those really thick Tron-like highlights. I just don't get it.)
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Aug 17, 2013 13:54
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Quantumfate posted:Whichever really, I have honestly no clue where to begin with this project. It sounds dumb, but I am pretty lost with how to go about any part of it because the pose seems ill suited for sticking on a dog or something. To get my thoughts more in order, is there a tutorial on sculpting animals or advice for sculpting animal poses for running/mount animals, what about a suitable tack? Is there a suitable small dog someone makes that I can use as a base. Is grabbing a second copy of the model I'm using the best route? Where would I begin to approach trimming up or cutting apart the model to make it look fittingly mounted. Etc etc etc. Maybe some converting guru can help you more. The general idea is to get pieces that are as close to what you want to have in the final model and then cut them up, reposition, pin(if you can) and then use GS to connect gaps, add details etc. So you might want to have the intended mount, a lower body of a mounted warrior and the second model. Alternatively, maybe a complete mount and rider, chop off the top of the rider and replace with your own. Again, better advice is probably from someone who's more into conversions.
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Aug 17, 2013 14:24
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Anyone have any experience with crackle mediums? I'm putting together Karchev the Terrible and I'm wondering if he'd look cool with cracked, worn paintjob or horrible.
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Aug 17, 2013 17:25
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I got some weathering pigments, and they say to use alcohol. Will that mess up my paintjob? If it will, how do I avoid that? Varnish first?
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Aug 17, 2013 19:27
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Achmed Jones posted:I got some weathering pigments, and they say to use alcohol. Will that mess up my paintjob? If it will, how do I avoid that? Varnish first? Varnish first for sure, I have used alcohol and pigment fixers, both are pretty much the same, be sure to varnish after as well though. edit: one nice thing with alcohol, if you dont like it, just add more alcohol and you can move the pigments, you cant do this with fixer.
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Aug 17, 2013 19:30
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What's a decent way to paint black cloth, and then to make it look weathered as gently caress all?
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Aug 17, 2013 20:41
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Oxford Comma posted:What's a decent way to paint black cloth, and then to make it look weathered as gently caress all? always paint black as a dark grey, shade with a black wash, and highlight with a slightly lighter grey. Apply weathering as desired.
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Aug 17, 2013 20:45
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If you want to make the cloth look dirty, I follow the steps LumberingTroll suggested, but just swap the black wash with a brown one.
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Aug 17, 2013 21:19
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 Just finished my second project today: the Ebay salvage finecast Bloodthirster with Daemon Prince weapons and loincloth because the stock weapons look cartoony and dumb and it didnt come with the normal loincloth. Went ahead and varnished and based this although I didn't dry brush the wing membranes because I can't figure out what color to use. Any suggestions would be helpful because I can just paint over the matte finish. Oxford Comma posted:Also, whats the difference in using Army Quick Shade versus using, say, a GW wash? Can I run Army Quick Shade thru an airbrush? Quick Shade is tinted varnish so it will seal up your miniatures, shade them and leave you a smooth surface to paint/apply decals on if you wanted to. It dries glossy vs. GW wash drying matte and is thicker than wash. I use Minwax Polyshades for dipping and it makes painting a lot easier. It evens out the surface of the base coat so paint flows easier. I wouldn't try running it through an airbrush, I think it would gum up the components. I can't really think of any reason why you would want to though. It's made for dipping or brushing on. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 17, 2013 21:50
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Thanks for the black cloth tips.  Also, whats the difference in using Army Quick Shade versus using, say, a GW wash? Can I run Army Quick Shade thru an airbrush?
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Aug 17, 2013 21:53
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