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I wear £5 Asda jeans for drat near everything.
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Aug 22, 2013 21:21
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West SAAB Story posted:I like this one, because it has a cover. I have a Kincrome box sort of like that. Except it's blue and looks like it spent a while in Sockington's garage for a while. The only downside is the big flap can get in the way depending on where it's been sat.
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Aug 22, 2013 21:46
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ctishman posted:Okay, here's a sort of strange question that still falls tangentially into the realm of tools: Work pants. They're usually cheap (maybe $20, I think?) and last forever. And you can get them in non-camo colors, so no issue there.
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Aug 22, 2013 22:58
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Krakkles posted:Surplus store BDUs are extremely good for this, though they DO usually have cargo pockets. Not sure if that falls within "gadgets that just catch everywhere", but I've never had any issue with 'em. Thanks for the information! I'll take a look around.
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Aug 23, 2013 00:36
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I wear cheap rear end Wranglers ($12 at Target on sale), or Dickies from Walmart or Meijers (~$20). Both options don't have cargo pockets or hammer loops (get a tool belt), last a good long time, and are cheaply replaceable when they get ruined. I'd like to get some nice stuff from Duluth Trading but it's so damned expensive due to its trendiness for something thats eventually gonna get ruined.
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Aug 23, 2013 20:13
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Cheap-o Wrangler jeans make pretty decent work clothes. Ugly as gently caress, but for some reason they are pretty drat durable.
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Aug 23, 2013 23:06
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Well, apparently my father's shipped me a pair of Duluths as a 'congratulations on being employed' gift, to go with my Dickies and jeans. I'm excited (more about the job than the pants, I assure you), and should be all set in the trouser department. Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions. When replacement time comes, I'll just buy more of whatever served me best.
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Aug 24, 2013 00:55
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My uncle has one of the Duluth firehose jackets and I must say that thing is the poo poo. He keeps trying to talk me into buying the firehose jeans but I never got around to it. Wranglers hold up fine and when they get too bad I just stop on the way home and get a pair or two.
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Aug 24, 2013 03:25
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I've had the same pair of Firehose cooldry pants for over a year now, and they've survived my job. Wear them every day and I build trails for a living which is really hard on clothing. Plus I do all the shop work (welding/fab, all the equipment repair and maintenance, etc) for our division. Still haven't killed the first pair. Just bought a second pair, too. Duluth pants rule. https://www.duluthtrading.com/store/product/mens-cooldry-fire-hose-summer-work-pants-95115.aspx Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 03:32
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Tire pressure gauges ... are these worthwhile? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02823020000P?sid=IAx20050830x000545&aff=Y&PID=1225267&AID=11042411 My thought is that it would be nice, but having it dependent on batteries is kind of lame. I have this more standard one in my other car, but I'm debating picking up the digital variety for my second vehicle.
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Aug 24, 2013 05:18
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I have a digital one that I like a lot. I've used it as much as a normal person with 4 cars and 3 bikes uses a tire gauge and the batteries are still going at least 6 years later. Mine isn't backlit, though. I'm sure it's not dead-on accurate, but I like to assume its pretty accurate against its own readings, which is nice for getting relative pressures, like when a front tire is spec'ed a few psi different than the rear. That auto deflate-to-number feature sounds pretty neat. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 05:54
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eddiewalker posted:That auto deflate-to-number feature sounds pretty neat. Yeah...How precise is that?
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Aug 24, 2013 14:20
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I did a thing... I got it for $400, I'm torn between keeping it and selling it to finance a new Everlast machine. What does the collective think? If I keep it I have to put a larger breaker in, it's max draw is like 74 amps or something. A newer machine is around 40 something amps for an inverter based machine. This one has a weldcraft wp-20 torch and a Bernard liquid cooler system. 
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Aug 24, 2013 22:35
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What are people using for tool tray organization at home on the cheap? I'm an A&P mechanic, so I'm spoiled by the CnC cut shadow boxes that we have at work, but those cost $texas. Ideally, I'd just like a solution for drawers of wrenches, sockets, and whatnot, but if I can get all 26 drawers laid out neatly without breaking the bank, that would be nice too!
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Aug 24, 2013 23:10
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McSpatula posted:What are people using for tool tray organization at home on the cheap? I have been looking at this too and Mag Rails look good. As I am  I am having to get creative! I am going to use an old camping roll mat, cutting out my tools on one layer and sticking to one below. Ghetto but cheap.
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Aug 24, 2013 23:58
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I did a thing... I got it for $400, I'm torn between keeping it and selling it to finance a new Everlast machine. What does the collective think? If I keep it I have to put a larger breaker in, it's max draw is like 74 amps or something. A newer machine is around 40 something amps for an inverter based machine. This one has a weldcraft wp-20 torch and a Bernard liquid cooler system. Keep it, they're great machines, and you've got a good cooler with it. Old transformers are wonderful and repairable by your average mechanically inclined person. Not even slightly so with inverters. It's worth running it hard and seeing where your breaker pops. I've got a Miller 330 abp that will happily draw 100 amps and I'm running it on a 50a breaker. It's not everyday you're going to run a TIG hard unless you're doing some crazy shafting rebuilds or something.
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Aug 25, 2013 00:00
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Hypnolobster posted:Keep it, they're great machines, and you've got a good cooler with it. Old transformers are wonderful and repairable by your average mechanically inclined person. Not even slightly so with inverters. I agree. Good transformers are exactly that. They may not be as efficient but they are durable. My MIG has a copper wound transformer and it's specced for 7 years of continuous use. That's 24/7. Paid through the nose for it but a good welder is a good welder. When I couldn't be bothered I run my MIG off the 10A circuit in the laundry building (240v single phase because I'm Aussie) because I'm usually doing sheet or light tube welding. It has a 15A plug on it "For testing purposes only" according to the tag and I think I worked out it can draw about 17A or so flat out, which is why they put the disclaimer on the plug. It's meant to be hardwired. I got it because it was the best single phase MIG I could find. Getting 3 phase retrofit to the house would have been a nightmare and it would mean I couldn't take it anywhere if needed. Assuming it works right, Keep the Hobart. Seriously.
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Aug 25, 2013 01:20
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So I was at sears today trying to find a 9/16 wobble socket and couldn't because the jack off that stocks their socket is a moron. gently caress sears. Anyway I saw the 20 piece gearwrench set I picked up a month ago for 50 bucks on clearance. Now it's 100 I did feel pretty good about that.
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Aug 25, 2013 01:44
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If anyone finds themselves needing heavy-duty double sided tape, check out Everbuild's Mammoth Powerful Grip tape. Just picked a roll of it, and it's brilliant, really strong.
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Aug 25, 2013 07:38
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thegasman2000 posted:I have been looking at this too and Mag Rails look good. As I am That's a good idea, also yoga mats can be had really cheap and in different colours which can help with contrast to see tool positions and sizes more easily.
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Aug 26, 2013 05:18
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McSpatula posted:What are people using for tool tray organization at home on the cheap? I got a piece of foam made to organize tools from Sears/Craftsman. I tried outlining my tools and making individual cutouts, but couldn't get nearly accurate enough for it to work. Instead I ended up cutting out rectangular compartments that are just small enough to keep the tools from rolling around. Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it works for my purposes. 
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Aug 26, 2013 05:34
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thegasman2000 posted:I have been looking at this too and Mag Rails look good. As I am So has anybody actually tried this? is it possible to do and it not end up too lovely?
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Aug 26, 2013 17:11
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I found this posts last night. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2641865&postcount=7
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Aug 26, 2013 19:28
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Coincidentally, I was just ogling this guys setup: http://aviationmechanic.blogspot.com/2012/11/tool-box-shadowing.html Someday when I have money...
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Aug 26, 2013 19:59
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McSpatula posted:What are people using for tool tray organization at home on the cheap? I use shelf liners from Target. They're usually about $2 for a roll and keep everything in reasonable position.
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Aug 26, 2013 20:25
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Cool, I'm definitely going to give that a try using camping mats... I need to sort all my tools into one place first though and work out what I actually have. Last year I had nearly all my tools stolen out of my shed. Since then they have been in the house. I have now built a garage and am trying to get everything secure before I put anything back in there. Has anybody got any security suggestions?. I have: - Added a PIR and put it on my house alarm and I can set that zone at night. - Barred the windows using angle so that you cant get anything big through them. - Reinforced the door (which is a metal frame with lots of glass but now has lengths of angle iron welded on the inside such that even with no glass there still wouldn't be gaps big enough to get much through). I'm going to reinforce the door hinges next and add an external padlock and hasp. What else can I do? My tool chest has a working lock. I was thinking that I could chain it to to floor with some sort of anchor loop? (garage is on a concrete pad). The same goes for other big tools like my compressor. I was thinking that something like a metal office filing cabinet or cupboard would be a good purchase to store all my other power tools and expensive bits in? (second hand ones are cheap!) I have a manual roller shutter door on the front of my garage. I have a padlock through the internal chain but you could probably still lever it up slightly from outside with a big crowbar. Is it worth sinking a central bolt of some sort into the concrete to lock this down more? what does everybody else do? I'm probably going over the top but it really sucks having your stuff stolen!
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Aug 26, 2013 20:43
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Usually once someone breaks the glass on a garage door, they reach in and pull the cord to disconnect the door from the opener and then just push the whole door open so you might want to look into how hard that is with your setup. Some people recommend removing the cord but that doesn't really help if the lever it connects to is accessible enough.
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Aug 26, 2013 21:10
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You can get these large deadbolts for the doot, which would prevent someone opening it, regardless of them being able to get at the roller chain:
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Aug 26, 2013 21:18
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Tomarse posted:My tool chest has a working lock. I was thinking that I could chain it to to floor with some sort of anchor loop? (garage is on a concrete pad). The same goes for other big tools like my compressor. This is the best solution for securing motorcycles inside a garage, as well. A ground anchor bolted (or sunk while the concrete is being poured) into the floor and a big-rear end case-hardened boron/manganese/whatever steel chain. It all depends on how solidly you can affix it to your toolbox, of course. ABUS, Kryptonite, Almax and a bunch of other companies make solid chains and locks. They're expensive, but probably worth it. Of course, you want to keep any sort of cutting or breaking tools locked up, as well. Otherwise they'll just use your own angle grinder to cut through it, or freeze it with your CO2 extinguisher and smash it with your big sledgehammer. Keep everything locked away, in other words. The weakest link and all that. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 21:46
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Cat Hatter posted:Usually once someone breaks the glass on a garage door, they reach in and pull the cord to disconnect the door from the opener and then just push the whole door open so you might want to look into how hard that is with your setup. Some people recommend removing the cord but that doesn't really help if the lever it connects to is accessible enough. The roller shutter door moves using a chain which sits in a gear. I think anything I do is as strong as the padlock and chain. It seems pretty hard (almost impossible but probably not quite if you dont care about door damage) to roll the shutter up by lifting the bottom edge and not using the chain. InitialDave posted:You can get these large deadbolts for the doot, which would prevent someone opening it, regardless of them being able to get at the roller chain: poo poo they are expensive! The whole 4m x 2m door new was only £400. I guess they mount at the bottom of the door and bolt through the side frame?. I could do that with some internal pins made out of stuff I already have - looks like its probably a sensible way of secondary locking the door down. If I just chain and padlock everything and make it really solid I guess that the only way through it is going to involve lots of noise and hopefully triggering my alarm..
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Aug 26, 2013 21:57
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KozmoNaut posted:This is the best solution for securing motorcycles inside a garage, as well. A ground anchor bolted (or sunk while the concrete is being poured) into the floor and a big-rear end case-hardened boron/manganese/whatever steel chain. It all depends on how solidly you can affix it to your toolbox, of course. Looking at the lock on my clarke toolbox, It would probably only take seconds to lever the lid open or drill the lock if you only wanted the tools out of it. I think that a big chain will be really simple though and make it more than a 2 minute/silent job to take the whole chest thus stopping your average thief. Yeah - I was just working that out. I think I just need a big secure locker in there that I can throw everything you can cut/hit with in at the end of a day (if its too complicated or time consuming I'm likely to get lazy), and an Alarm/security setup such that it makes a lot of noise to get through anything such that me or the neighbours will find out.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:10
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Tomarse posted:Looking at the lock on my clarke toolbox, It would probably only take seconds to lever the lid open or drill the lock if you only wanted the tools out of it. I think that a big chain will be really simple though and make it more than a 2 minute/silent job to take the whole chest thus stopping your average thief. A lot of locks on boxes / lids can be defeated in about two seconds with a flathead screwdriver. I think they are more to prevent people from using your tools when you aren't around. The only type of garage doors I'm familiar with are the roller doors which all have a key and a couple of big bars which lock into cutouts in the guide. I'm guessing those swinging door things are less secure? My garage, or shed full of poo poo has a couple of swinging wooden doors. Insecure as all hell but can only be opened by going in through the door in the yard, going through and opening it. Climbing through there would be a suicide mission currently.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:32
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Tomarse posted:poo poo they are expensive! The whole 4m x 2m door new was only £400. I guess they mount at the bottom of the door and bolt through the side frame?. I could do that with some internal pins made out of stuff I already have - looks like its probably a sensible way of secondary locking the door down. General_Failure posted:A lot of locks on boxes / lids can be defeated in about two seconds with a flathead screwdriver. I think they are more to prevent people from using your tools when you aren't around.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:39
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InitialDave posted:You can find them all over ebay for £30 a pair. Perfectly serviceable. Where have you found them on ebay? I can't find ones that look like those (though there is some other stuff that looks like it might help!) Yea, my toolbox lock is only a hook latch so if you pushed the lid far enough one way it would disengage. General_Failure posted:A lot of locks on boxes / lids can be defeated in about two seconds with a flathead screwdriver. I think they are more to prevent people from using your tools when you aren't around. The roller shutter mechanism on mine is similar to this, except that it geared through 2 big plastic cogs: http://www.1stsecurityuk.com/industrial_door3.jpg. The door is made of lots of slats, and if you just lift from the bottom they tend to just bunch up and get stuck rather than rolling up (the roll is tensioned by an internal spring so doesn't move easily). You should walk up to your shed and look at it and think what you would do if you were armed with a crowbar or any other poo poo that is lying around in your yard and you had 5 minutes and didn't give a poo poo about damaging anything, walking on or breaking anything on your way past - how much valuable stuff you could you extract?. I had mine broken into when I was mid construction project and I had backfilled until the doors barely closed for overnight on a stormy night with non valuable stuff (cement mixer, cement, waste pipes, shovels etc). They got all my valuable tools out past all the poo poo, in the dark and then carried it across my yard and over a wall without making a noise that caused me or my neighbours to look out of the window.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:28
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Tomarse posted:Where have you found them on ebay? I can't find ones that look like those (though there is some other stuff that looks like it might help!) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENFIELD-U...=item4abfc8c564 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Enfield-Garage-Door-Bolt-Locks-MK-4-New-2013-Model-/321138971563?pt=UK_HaG_Lock_Safes_GL&hash=item4ac55fd3ab http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Enfield-Garage-Door-Bolt-Locks-MK-II-/321037048220?pt=UK_HaG_Lock_Safes_GL&hash=item4abf4c999c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Enfield-Garage-Door-Bolts-/221170774068?pt=UK_HaG_Lock_Safes_GL&hash=item337ece3034 For me, I think that it's important that a garage has a fire-suppression system, with Halon probably being the best, and if it happens to be wired into the alarm system as well, that's just one of those things that makes life interesting. Apparently I'm not allowed to do this. 
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Aug 26, 2013 23:45
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ESPN and TNT Agree: "This racing is poo poo and we want out a year early!" http://www.sportsbusinessdaily.com/Journal/Issues/2013/08/26/Media/NASCAR-TV.aspx
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Aug 27, 2013 00:54
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Tomarse posted:Where have you found them on ebay? I can't find ones that look like those (though there is some other stuff that looks like it might help!) I've been considering doing a beam thing for the double doors. You know the classic style with a bracket on each door and a big lump of wood that drops in. But with something that prevents lifting through the crack too. It has bolts on the top and the bottom and between the doors, but the latter is functionally useless on any double door. Another reason for the beam idea is it's been windy enough before that the doors were actually deformed and pushed past the frame into the garage. No matter what if someone was determined enough they could just go through the wall. All I could do is hope that the asbestos kills them eventually. Damnit that reminds me there's some total wastes of space that keep breaking into the primary school here and looting it. They know where things are kept too so they must be pretty familiar with it. I don't even know and my daughter goes there. I know at least once they broke in to a secure room by going through the wall. If someone is determined they find a way. Those fuckers have stolen the proceeds of one of the school shows (really big affair) various fund raisers and even equipment during school hours The best you can do is try to make things look hard to infiltrate / hard to make off with.
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Aug 27, 2013 01:01
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Can anybody recommend a good electric screwdriver?
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Aug 27, 2013 02:10
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Thats basically it- If you make it so much trouble to get away with your prized goodies, your average theif will go look elsewhere. If they are determined to get it, they will- Thats why you have good insurance. Im sure that on my place despite the shed being secured with deadbolts on the front doors and good locks on the side doors, if they WANT to get in there, they will just jump start the 1970's massey with a paperclip and ram the front door in if they REALLY want to get in there
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Aug 27, 2013 02:13
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Prevent lifting by overlapping the doors. The hinges are the vulnerable point with barn doors, usually.
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Aug 27, 2013 04:01
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