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Akay
Apr 7, 2009

gilljoy posted:

So I decided to re-paint the tank as iyanden

I think it looks far better than before

*snip*

what colors are those yellows, if you're using the Vallehjo air, and if you are, how do they match to the new golden yellow? I may have to pick some of those up.

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Not a viking
Aug 2, 2008

Feels like I just got laid
Wasn't there a miniature site that had a search function for their minis? So you could search for "half-orc barbarian" and get a bunch of suggestions? A friend of mine is looking for minis for his D&D group and they aren't very miniature savvy apparently.

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



Reaper has this, but it's only for their models (reapermini.com)

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Achmed Jones posted:

Reaper has this, but it's only for their models (reapermini.com)
Which is perfect, Reaper being RPG mini-oriented. If you find something good, check if it has a Bones equivalent, they are much cheaper but they aren't tagged (they are usually direct copies of metal minis though).

Slandible
Apr 30, 2008

Can anyone help me as to where to even start to make my base look like this?



I got the rein base from Secret Weapon, but I have no clue as to how to come even close to this other than just priming gray and washing it. Anyone have any info or guides to paint multi colored flagstone like this?

TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine
Looks like he sanded a surface rough, or put down a very fine powder layer to get the texture. Then randomly painted some tiles light blue, light brown, and slightly darker brown. Then gave it a couple watered down washes of black.

Just slather wash on some pre-painted stuff and see what you get. The texture seems like the only hard part. Handling powder that fine is a huge pain in the rear end. It's possible the texture was mixed in the wash, I suppose. In fact that makes some sense to me because of how fuzzy the deeper cracks look.

The shine is probably a gloss spray. Or could just be an artifact of the wash he used.

Crazy Ferret
May 11, 2007

Welp
Hey guys! So I built a lightbox a few weeks ago! It was a neat little DIY project I had been meaning to do for ages and I think it was a solid first attempt. I have been playing with it here and there ever since trying to get the pictures to turn out right. I feel like i am still missing something though. I was hoping you guys can help me out.



So far I'm using Imgur for my picture hosting. I saw some posts in here recently about messing with things like White Balance so I took a run at the, probably rather basic, editing tools today and came up with these for a post I made in the Warmachine thread.





I feel like these came out pretty good. My past attempts were too close up, showing off a lot of imperfections as I'm not the most skilled painter. I think I got the distance right, a decent amount of light and all the models in a decent shot, though the Mangler's face in the second picture got obscured. I played with the Imgur tools, playing with Brightness and various other settings to get the pictures looking as good as I could. If anyone knows of good primer for how to get better with editing tools, I would be much appreciated.

I need to experiment a bit more and hope too as my life finally starts to calm down recently. Here are some I took a week ago of my Imperial Guard. I really should go back though and ink up the faces a bit and I've adjusted the lighting situation with the Light box since but here we go.

My basic Imperial Guard squads.



Here are two pictures of my Penal Legion. It is basically a mash-up of Cadians, Empire Free Company and Empire War Priests. The squad leader is always a basic Seageant, albeit grizzled or some how made to look Veteran-ish. I'm pretty proud of them.



Any comments, feedback, and criticisms will be most welcome.

dishwasherlove
Nov 26, 2007

The ultimate fusion of man and machine.

Are you trying to paint white over black there?

Crazy Ferret
May 11, 2007

Welp

dishwasherlove posted:

Are you trying to paint white over black there?

The Penal Legion are very old models for me, about 4 years old now, and at the time I was painting white over black. Endless, Endless, Endless coats of Skull White. I quickly learned to prime black, paint a coat of Adeptus Grey on, and then start applying the white.

Now a days I use the Ceramite White base which helps alot.

Oxford Comma
Jun 26, 2011
Oxford Comma: Hey guys I want a cool big dog to show off! I want it to be ~special~ like Thor but more couch potato-like because I got babbies in the house!
Everybody: GET A LAB.
Oxford Comma: OK! (gets a a pit/catahoula mix)
You're getting the concept of your lightbox, but the execution still needs some work.

Use a single long piece of paper instead of taping two together. There is a visible seam when you do this.

Some of your photos look blurry. I can't tell if they're out of focus, or the camera was moving slightly. I'm suspecting the latter because the shutter speed with those lights is probably fairly slow. Put your camera on a tripod. If you can get a remote shutter release cable (not very expensive) so much the better, but its not mandatory.

When you shoot, be sure not to get the cardboard in the background! :)

Finally, check and make sure that all the models are in focus. Or, at least the front row since those are where the viewer's eye is going to be drawn to.

Good luck! :)

Crazy Ferret
May 11, 2007

Welp

Oxford Comma posted:

You're getting the concept of your lightbox, but the execution still needs some work.

Use a single long piece of paper instead of taping two together. There is a visible seam when you do this.

Some of your photos look blurry. I can't tell if they're out of focus, or the camera was moving slightly. I'm suspecting the latter because the shutter speed with those lights is probably fairly slow. Put your camera on a tripod. If you can get a remote shutter release cable (not very expensive) so much the better, but its not mandatory.

When you shoot, be sure not to get the cardboard in the background! :)

Finally, check and make sure that all the models are in focus. Or, at least the front row since those are where the viewer's eye is going to be drawn to.

Good luck! :)

Thanks for the response!

The video I watched regarding a lightbox used two sheets of paper to ensure that it covered the bottom, but I think you are right. That seam is unfortunate. I'm sure I can find something to do the trick. Would a thick piece of cloth work better? I've started leaning that way to help cover up the cardboard edges along the bottom as well.

I had a tripod once upon a time, but my cat found it and thought to herself that the rubber ends were fun to chew. It got pretty trashed up. I thought the lack of tripod may be an issue, but if you are noticing it then aswell it looks like I will need to pick one up again. This response is made all the funnier by your AV which I cannot look at for more than a moment without laughing.

edit: A dumb question is gone.

Crazy Ferret fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Aug 27, 2013

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
While we're talking about Laser Cut terrain, anyone got a line on an American outfit selling pre-cut terrain bases like these:

http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_STB

The only places I can find offering them are overseas, and shipping costs make it kinda silly.

El Estrago Bonito
Dec 17, 2010

Scout Finch Bitch

Bucnasti posted:

While we're talking about Laser Cut terrain, anyone got a line on an American outfit selling pre-cut terrain bases like these:

http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_STB

The only places I can find offering them are overseas, and shipping costs make it kinda silly.

http://war-bases.co.uk/Bases/VEHICLE-BASES?product_id=122

These guys are very good, cheap and have good international rates. I based something like 4000 points of Flames of War Russian Marines on their bases for hella cheap.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Crazy Ferret posted:

Any comments, feedback, and criticisms will be most welcome.

It will look better if you position the lights in front of the figures. You want the ground shadows to be largely cancelled out and positioned behind the models. Backlighting (more light on the background than on your subject) could be why your shots look dim: You're photographing the shadowed side of the figure, and much light's going to waste on the side the camera can't see.

There's a lot to read about photography and most of it can seem really daunting and technical. You've already beaten the hardest part, which is deciding you want good photos and are willing to do something about it.

Direwolf
Aug 16, 2004
Fwar

El Estrago Bonito posted:

http://war-bases.co.uk/Bases/VEHICLE-BASES?product_id=122

These guys are very good, cheap and have good international rates. I based something like 4000 points of Flames of War Russian Marines on their bases for hella cheap.

What do the bases actually look like? They don't have any pictures.

Zhent
Oct 18, 2011

The difference between gods and daemons largely depends upon where one is standing at the time.

Crazy Ferret posted:

Thanks for the response!

The video I watched regarding a lightbox used two sheets of paper to ensure that it covered the bottom, but I think you are right. That seam is unfortunate. I'm sure I can find something to do the trick. Would a thick piece of cloth work better? I've started leaning that way to help cover up the cardboard edges along the bottom as well.

I had a tripod once upon a time, but my cat found it and thought to herself that the rubber ends were fun to chew. It got pretty trashed up. I thought the lack of tripod may be an issue, but if you are noticing it then aswell it looks like I will need to pick one up again. This response is made all the funnier by your AV which I cannot look at for more than a moment without laughing.

edit: A dumb question is gone.

If you place the sheet of paper in back before you place the sheet on the bottom, the seam will face away from the camera and become much less noticeable.

Since the models aren't moving, you can always set up a temporary rest for the camera on some books or a chair. If you have a zoom lens you have a lot of space to work with, so don't worry too much about moving back a little bit to get a solid surface.

The white paper gives you a great surface to white balance your photos. It may be a step further, but if you use any sort of photo editing software, photoshop or GIMP or something similar, there should be an option to set the white balance. Click on the white paper, and the colors in the picture should align much more closely with what you see.

Good luck!

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Hey dudes who make your washes- does anybody have a recipe for a GW Casandra Yellow clone?

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

BULBASAUR posted:

Hey dudes who make your washes- does anybody have a recipe for a GW Casandra Yellow clone?

Looks like a pretty bright yellow, should be easy to make with yellow ink. Here's the Les Burley recipe: http://www.awesomepaintjob.com/index.cfm/resources.recipes with recipes for many other colors, just use yellow. Maybe flesh tint or burnt umber if you need to darken it a bit.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




So I was about to start painting a second bunch of Guardsmen but got the notion that I wanted to diverge from the standard Cadian Pattern with Castellan Green/Tallarn Sand that I've already got 15 guys in. Just to give them some diversion and later one let me distinguish between different squads/platoon.
I found two alternate colour schemes in the old IG codex that I've been putting under consideration.

It's either this one with Abaddon Black/Castellan Green.


Or this one with Karak Stone/Abaddon Black


Yes that was the best program I found for making pictures. :v:
Thinking about it I might just go with the first one and save the second one for whenever I make a second veteran squad or even get some FW troopers. But I appreciate any input or suggestions.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Bucnasti posted:

While we're talking about Laser Cut terrain, anyone got a line on an American outfit selling pre-cut terrain bases like these:

http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_STB

The only places I can find offering them are overseas, and shipping costs make it kinda silly.

God drat, this terrain is pretty cheap for what you get! I wish I had room for my own table. I'd splurge so hard.

Cooked Auto posted:

So I was about to start painting a second bunch of Guardsmen but got the notion that I wanted to diverge from the standard Cadian Pattern with Castellan Green/Tallarn Sand that I've already got 15 guys in. Just to give them some diversion and later one let me distinguish between different squads/platoon.
I found two alternate colour schemes in the old IG codex that I've been putting under consideration.

It's either this one with Abaddon Black/Castellan Green.


Or this one with Karak Stone/Abaddon Black


Yes that was the best program I found for making pictures. :v:
Thinking about it I might just go with the first one and save the second one for whenever I make a second veteran squad or even get some FW troopers. But I appreciate any input or suggestions.

I started painting up Cadians a while back that look vaguely similar to the first picture. They're based off of the cover of the Cadian Blood novel.



Black armor just works very well, and you can keep it looking interesting with alternating cloth patterns.

Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Aug 27, 2013

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
I like option B because it will pop on the table more. I'd probably use a dark grey or dark grown instead of a black though. Save that for your deepest shadows.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




BULBASAUR posted:

I like option B because it will pop on the table more. I'd probably use a dark grey or dark grown instead of a black though. Save that for your deepest shadows.

Which is almost why I want to save it for something a bit more special than just regular troops. Like say Elysian Drop Troops (if I ever got a squad of them) or a Veteran Squad.
I do have a Krieg Command HQ squad that I almost could use the scheme for, or the reverse even.

Any suggestions for a darker grey to use as the only GW grey colour I've got is the old Codex grey as well as some Vallejo colours (Black Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Basalt Grey.)

Dirty Job posted:

Black armor just works very well, and you can keep it looking interesting with alternating cloth patterns.

Yeah I might just run with Black Armor for the second Platoon and do squads in various cloth patterns if I ever get that far. Just for variations sake.

El Estrago Bonito
Dec 17, 2010

Scout Finch Bitch

Direwolf posted:

What do the bases actually look like? They don't have any pictures.

Thy're just laser cut MDF in a variety of shapes. There is a diagram that shows the different sizes shapes.

Slandible
Apr 30, 2008

Not exactly what was in my mind when I first started and still a bit wet(on the right), but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Debating a few more layers of wash on it though to make it more grim dark.

Signal
Dec 10, 2005

Cooked Auto posted:

Which is almost why I want to save it for something a bit more special than just regular troops. Like say Elysian Drop Troops (if I ever got a squad of them) or a Veteran Squad.

Option B does look like Harakoni Warhawks. Could be a fun unit to do up for Veterans/Stormtroopers.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




Signal posted:

Option B does look like Harakoni Warhawks. Could be a fun unit to do up for Veterans/Stormtroopers.

Yeah it is in fact a Harakoni paint scheme. I really wish I could find the scan of that page from the 3rd edition 2nd codex since it does have some great idea for paint schemes for IG.

Edit, after some finagling I managed to get a decent screengrab of it.

Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Aug 27, 2013

gilljoy
May 3, 2009

Akay posted:

what colors are those yellows, if you're using the Vallehjo air, and if you are, how do they match to the new golden yellow? I may have to pick some of those up.

Basic run down of the recipe:

Base with model air golden yellow ( not sure how this matches up)
Shade with a 50:50 mix of burnt umber and golden yellow
then spray white where the highlights will be
finally spray medium yellow ( i think its vallejo air number 2) over the entire model, a thin coat mind you, this will colour the white highlights and blend the shades in a bit better.

Squibsy
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.
College Slice

Cooked Auto posted:

Yeah it is in fact a Harakoni paint scheme. I really wish I could find the scan of that page from the 3rd edition 2nd codex since it does have some great idea for paint schemes for IG.

Edit, after some finagling I managed to get a decent screengrab of it.


I have that codex. What resolution would you like? :)

Edit:

Squibsy fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Aug 27, 2013

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




ineptmule posted:

I have that codex. What resolution would you like? :)

Edit:


Ah that's much better than mine. Much appreciated.
Yeah I have the codex as well but in book form and no real scanner access.

Mango Polo
Aug 4, 2007

Bucnasti posted:

While we're talking about Laser Cut terrain, anyone got a line on an American outfit selling pre-cut terrain bases like these:

http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_STB

The only places I can find offering them are overseas, and shipping costs make it kinda silly.

Looks good, is cheap (like 1/6th of the Cityscape board)? I think I'll be ordering myself a city board!

my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK
Oven Wrangler
Some of those schemes look really :suicide: to paint.

Verdugo
Jan 5, 2009


Lipstick Apathy

Cooked Auto posted:

Which is almost why I want to save it for something a bit more special than just regular troops. Like say Elysian Drop Troops (if I ever got a squad of them) or a Veteran Squad.
I do have a Krieg Command HQ squad that I almost could use the scheme for, or the reverse even.

Any suggestions for a darker grey to use as the only GW grey colour I've got is the old Codex grey as well as some Vallejo colours (Black Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Basalt Grey.)


Yeah I might just run with Black Armor for the second Platoon and do squads in various cloth patterns if I ever get that far. Just for variations sake.

Black armor, with shoulder black and white checks. And red helmets so they go faster. Waagh. Imperial Ork Guard Unit ready for deployment, 'ere we go!

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




ghetto wormhole posted:

Some of those schemes look really :suicide: to paint.

Yeah I don't even want to know how they painted some of them because they are most definitely something I'd want to do for a decently sized army.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Cooked Auto posted:

Any suggestions for a darker grey to use as the only GW grey colour I've got is the old Codex grey as well as some Vallejo colours (Black Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Basalt Grey.)

I use mixes of P3 paints, mostly, so I can only give color advice.

You want a shade of grey that compliments your theme and isn't truly black, so it gives depth to your shadows. My vote is for a really dark red brown, but a dark blue or green would also work with that khaki color. I think Vallejo Black Grey or Basault Grey would work since one is blueish and one a little green (at least from the google pictures).

If you're doing highlights you'll want an even lighter grey color (Sea Grey would work here) to mix into the base to highlight and mix in a black for your deep shadows. Or you cold just use an airbursh, zenithal highlight with primer, and glaze over the dark grey areas with the dark grey color. I'd probably do that for a guard army.

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...
Ahhh.. the smell of laser cut MDF.



Going to be assembling some larger buildings now.

I also started designing a modular board for Incursion

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


Cooked Auto posted:

Yeah I don't even want to know how they painted some of them because they are most definitely something I'd want to do for a decently sized army.

Something to do for fun with vet squads.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

If you will not serve in combat, you will serve on the firing line!




BULBASAUR posted:

I use mixes of P3 paints, mostly, so I can only give color advice.

You want a shade of grey that compliments your theme and isn't truly black, so it gives depth to your shadows. My vote is for a really dark red brown, but a dark blue or green would also work with that khaki color. I think Vallejo Black Grey or Basault Grey would work since one is blueish and one a little green (at least from the google pictures).

Probably should go with the Basalt Grey as Black Grey is the colour I've not started to use for the Base plates even if I could just use normal GW black that without major difference but the issue I do kinda run into there is that the model will blend perhaps too much into the base but that I probably have to see once I've started painting.

BULBASAUR posted:

If you're doing highlights you'll want an even lighter grey color (Sea Grey would work here) to mix into the base to highlight and mix in a black for your deep shadows. Or you cold just use an airbursh, zenithal highlight with primer, and glaze over the dark grey areas with the dark grey color. I'd probably do that for a guard army.

Well see with highlights as it's a thing I really haven't mastered or really tried. Perhaps high time to start now that I've got some solid tips on colours to use.
And airbrush? Yeah I totally got one of those. Totally. :v:
Thanks for the tips though. :)

LingcodKilla posted:

Something to do for fun with vet squads.

That almost seems to be a reoccurring theme.

Hellbeard
Apr 8, 2002


Please report me if you see me post in GBS so a moderator may bulldoze my account like a palestinian school.

LumberingTroll posted:

Ahhh.. the smell of laser cut MDF.



Going to be assembling some larger buildings now.

I also started designing a modular board for Incursion


Looks sweet! Cool hobby area, too.

Not a viking
Aug 2, 2008

Feels like I just got laid
I lovely photo of my WIP treeman. Amazing what some washes and extra colors can do.

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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006
Probation
Can't post for 5 hours!
I somehow talked my brother-in-law into getting into a miniatures game (probably because I said I'd paint everything). A couple weeks ago we settled on giving Armoured Clash by Spartan Games a shot (mostly because the rules are free on their site). Our order showed up today and...



I got a LOT of painting ahead of me. Maybe I'll be able to finish by Christmas... :negative:

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