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berzerkmonkey posted:You tie your models together with a cohesive color selection on the model itself, not on the base. For instance, one guy has a red hat, one has a red pouch, one has a red gun, etc. Yeah, you shouldn't have bases of all different colors, but the base shouldn't be the focal point. Also, he wouldn't have to paint the base rim a dark brown or grey - he could go a lighter brown, for instance. Oh, I realize that, I just meant that right now it's better than nothing for tying together his models. Without the bases they're just dark and rusty and vaguely green. Your army is a lot more careful in having something prominent painted red in every unit, so it all looks like it belongs. On his it's mostly on the shirts, which are hard to see, and the fiddly bits. If the helmets were all red or something, that would be best, I think. If it were me I'd paint the helmets + some element of the gun casing/weapon the accent color.
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Aug 30, 2013 22:05
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LumberingTroll posted:What plants did you use for the trunks in that previous post? It doesn't go into that kind of detail. Just wondering what I am looking for. BuffaloChicken was of the opinion that it might be Mugwort. It was pretty fragile stuff after a couple weeks, though. Eventually I'll get around to trying to preserve some with glycerine, but I didn't get to a crop of them this year. Though now that I think of it, I did just see some starting to bloom a couple weeks ago, so it might not be too late.
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Aug 30, 2013 22:09
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Oh drat, I dont think we have any of that around here. I may have to go hunting for some other stuff.
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Aug 30, 2013 22:24
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I've been working on some 40k RPG and skirmish miniatures. So I figured why the hell not start making some true-scale Deathwatch?  The image makes him look smaller than he his in real life, but it's the best my phone will manage. Have to say, I'm drat proud of how he turned out.
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Aug 30, 2013 22:48
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Whoah now hang on what is that model on the right? I don't recognize that one.
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Aug 30, 2013 23:09
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Fix posted:Whoah now hang on what is that model on the right? I don't recognize that one. That beauty is Inquisitor Solomon Lok: http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-40000/Grey-Knights/INQUISITOR_SOLOMON_LOK_AND_RETINUE.html His story is in IA4 I think. It's pretty awesome, and he's a beautiful model. Definitely one of the favourites in my collection. From the Lexicanum: "In the last battle, Lok succeeded in taking down an Hierophant Bio-titan, only to see two more stride out of the ammonia fog. Lok died betrayed by his superiors and his faith." Enentol fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 23:11
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You know what Inquisition model I love and never got wide release? The sister Hospitaller. It only came in one retinue box.
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Aug 30, 2013 23:21
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Beerdeer posted:You know what Inquisition model I love and never got wide release? The sister Hospitaller. It only came in one retinue box. *cough* http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1300015a *cough* In all seriousness, it's an awesome model. I'll probably pick one up just for the heck of it. It's just a shame that it's $15 CDN...
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Aug 30, 2013 23:41
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http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCatsLarge.jsp?catId=cat440160a&rootCatGameStyle=wh40k Space marine things up for pre-order on GW.com
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Aug 31, 2013 00:50
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drgnvale posted:Someone in this thread (or some iteration) recommended badger airbrush paint, but noted that it is almost never in stock at Amazon. I got an email this morning that it is in stock. Argh why is this in stock when I don't have any money?
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Aug 31, 2013 02:19
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Slimnoid posted:Argh why is this in stock when I don't have any money? I saved up from the last time I tried to order it and they waited 3 months before giving up. I think I've been waiting on this since Feb. Now I just need an airbrush...
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Aug 31, 2013 02:22
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Fearless posted:http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCatsLarge.jsp?catId=cat440160a&rootCatGameStyle=wh40k 
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Aug 31, 2013 02:40
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Under 15 posted:. Basecoat + wash gets you nice dark crevasses but splotchy areas. If you get your green paint back out, something lighter, and go over the parts that aren't a uniform dark color once or twice, you'll have a much more solid color that doesn't look unrealistically flat. Basecoat > Wash > Layer is the quick and easy way to making your rank and file duders look good. Thanks for the words and suggestions. While I understand the problem you're referencing here, I don't quite understand the solution you propose. Could you explain it again? :-) Thanks!
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Aug 31, 2013 03:38
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I've had a nightmare of an oath month, but it has been worth it because I found golden fluid acrylics. This poo poo is magical, but I can't explain exactly why. The iridescent gold that I picked up is brighter than my now bad pot of Vallejo liquid gold and really easy to use. I can't wait to try some more stuff from the range.
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Aug 31, 2013 05:00
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berzerkmonkey posted:Keep practicing and ask for pointers. Look at paintjobs and try to figure how the painter did them. Use washes and learn different techniques. You'll improve if you don't allow yourself to get discouraged. My preferred method for greenskins (not my blog): http://firesteelblood.blogspot.com/2012/09/spanna-boyz-with-mek-or-how-i-paint-my.html
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Aug 31, 2013 05:02
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Any ideas if someone makes paint racks in Europe? Miniature Scenery and Back 2 Base-ix both make some great racks, but customs will be a pain to deal with.
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Aug 31, 2013 10:55
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Mango Polo posted:Any ideas if someone makes paint racks in Europe? Miniature Scenery and Back 2 Base-ix both make some great racks, but customs will be a pain to deal with. HobbyZone.
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Aug 31, 2013 11:15
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I use these. They're dead good. 
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Aug 31, 2013 11:26
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They are. I have one of their workstations, and the ability to just to pull things out, work for an hour an put everything away again in moments is really fantastic.
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Aug 31, 2013 13:17
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Oooh, interesting. Been wanting to organize my painting corner a bit. Although I kinda wish they had a paint stand that let me have both vallejo and citadel paints on the same rack. Guess the best solution is just to buy the 38mm one then. Definitely bookmarking that for the future.
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Aug 31, 2013 17:30
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I'm in Canada. Does anyone know the best place to get brush soap and some Windsor 7 brushes?
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Aug 31, 2013 17:35
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If anyone wants to order from HobbyZone anything made from actual wood (dice towers, organizers etc.), they can stain it for an extra fee if you ask them, worth it.
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Aug 31, 2013 17:37
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Non Serviam posted:Thanks for the words and suggestions. While I understand the problem you're referencing here, I don't quite understand the solution you propose. Could you explain it again? :-) Basically, what you do is you start with some midtoned color of paint which you are using as your base coat. Say you're painting a guy's pants and they're green? So you you use a midtone green. Then, you paint over that with your green wash. This will darken the entire thing, but the wash pools in the crevices and nooks and makes them darker. When it dries, you now have some degree of shading on the pants, which starts to look pretty good. Now, you take that original paint that you used for the base coat, and you use it again as a highlight. You just paint the raised areas, leaving the crevices and nooks alone. Thin the paint well and put down one careful layer at a time. First layer covers all the raised parts, second is just on the smallest most protruding raised bits. Now your pants have both a shade (from the wash) and a highlight (from the last coats of paint), and all you used was two things: a base coat and a wash. A lot of painters go beyond this and start using a lighter tone for highlighting, but to begin with, the above method is fairly quick and produces pretty nice looking results. You'll need practice to get the hang of just how thin the paint should be, getting just a little on your brush, getting your brush strokes even and smooth, and so on. This is a good way to practice brush technique because it's fairly quick (only three or four applications of paint, from the base through to the highlight) and doesn't require that you mix anything besides paint and water. e. I just realized, you might not be aware of what exactly is meant by "tone". Please see this handy reference to learn what is meant by tint, tone, shade, and hue. So, a "mid-tone" color is one that is not super-bright, not pastel, and not really dark; it has a nice middle-of-the-range look to it. These are great for base colors because you can shade them for shading, and just use them as-is for simple highlighting, without winding up with something that looks like a clown (too pure of a color = too brightly hued) or has all its detail washed out in shadow (too much grey = too deeply toned). Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Aug 31, 2013 |
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Aug 31, 2013 19:40
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After I wash should I repaint everything in my midtone everything that's not a shadow? Then highlight up from there?
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Aug 31, 2013 19:53
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If you wan't depth, yes. Repaint or dry brush raised surfaces with your mid tone and then highlight as usual.
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Aug 31, 2013 21:32
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Oxford Comma posted:After I wash should I repaint everything in my midtone everything that's not a shadow? Then highlight up from there? It depends on what the wash was for. If you are using washes to shade stuff down, then you can use the mid tone as a low highlight and then your highlight on top of that. The idea is that the base color+wash will be your mid tone and light shading, the unwashed mid tone is the lighter portions and the highlight will give you edge definition. Usually I go back and blackline or shade down even after a wash. Another good use of washes is to tie everything together; usually I thing the wash down when I do this, just to tint everything and smooth it out.
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Aug 31, 2013 21:48
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Oath thread cross-post (with additional content)          Continuing my Mass effect / cerberus themed tau, I painted a random infinity model up to look like N7 defender armor, and a squad of stealth suits to be a darker version of my color scheme. I really hate fire warriors, not only is their detail poorly sculpted because of how old the original molds were done, they've been painted probably 4 times and i couldn't get them quite perfectly stripped. Oh well, only 36 more to go. edit: oh, people last month were interested in how I shoot my pictures. Here's the setup. 
Booley fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Sep 1, 2013 |
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Sep 1, 2013 00:41
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Those stealth suits look really great. What an awesome paint scheme.
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Sep 1, 2013 01:10
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Beerdeer posted:You know what Inquisition model I love and never got wide release? The sister Hospitaller. It only came in one retinue box. I have that retinue box, I had to hide it among the stuff in my local store so no one else could buy it before I got the money. They are all so good, but I'm afraid my painting skills are not worthy of such cool looking miniatures. I'll upload my work on the Crusader in a while.
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Sep 1, 2013 03:32
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So many highlights and shadows, but I think I can call the main stuff done.   I need to get a real camera one of these days. I'll bug the owner of my FLGS to get a few shots on his nice camera when its done. Edit>> Also, I know the pose is a bit goofy, but I got it used. For only $25 and a little bit of stripping, I can't complain. Slandible fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Sep 1, 2013 |
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Sep 1, 2013 03:37
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Is resin casting considered  around here?
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Sep 1, 2013 16:01
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Depends what you're casting, really. If you're making copies of commercial models, especially for sale, it's . If you're casting stuff of your own design, it's legit.
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Sep 1, 2013 16:23
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^^^ t JEEVES420 posted:Is resin casting considered
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Sep 1, 2013 16:23
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Cooked Auto posted:Oooh, interesting. Been wanting to organize my painting corner a bit. Although I kinda wish they had a paint stand that let me have both vallejo and citadel paints on the same rack. I've placed an order for a stand and an organizer, they look quite nice. I asked to have two 26mm and two 36mm shelves on mine, which takes care nicely of my mixture of GW and Vallejo paints.
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Sep 1, 2013 18:06
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Mango Polo posted:I've placed an order for a stand and an organizer, they look quite nice. I asked to have two 26mm and two 36mm shelves on mine, which takes care nicely of my mixture of GW and Vallejo paints. Yeah I noticed that extra line at the bottom about being able to change what kind of shelves you wanted to have later on. (Ie today  )Current plan is to order a big one and have the top shelf be a 26mm as I did a count and only had 11 Vallejo colours compared to 70 Citadels pots. Hooray for hand me downs on old paints pretty much. Now I just need to get a tiny shelf as well so I have a proper place to put it.
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Sep 1, 2013 18:10
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So it's been months since I painted, got myself enthused with some new minis and my first time using ghost tint. Let me tell you this- minitaire ghost tint is loving awesome. The color is amazing. Now if I could just make my airbrush behave I'll be all set! Took this picture to show off the color it's capable of using the Plasma Fluid color. Gonna paint over most of that of course.
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Sep 1, 2013 18:18
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I'm about to go loving crazy with some plasma fluid and this hyperion. Also, I can't photograph metallics for poo poo. The layers are often really stark, but it just happens randomly. Like in this Magnus the brass/gold looks good in person because the highlight layers are really thin, but in the pictures it's just a hot mess. The silvers are mostly fine but the contrast is a lot lower in the picture for some reason. Is this unavoidable? Can I change a setting somewhere? It really bothers me that my models look a lot better in person than they do in the pictures. 
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Sep 1, 2013 19:44
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I just did my first test piece using GW Water Effects, and after almost four days (still not 100% dry) it's about ready to flock. But I'm wondering if flocking with superglue with fog up the water? Should I flock the terrain piece before pouring the water for the future?
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Sep 1, 2013 22:47
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Dr. Clockwork posted:I just did my first test piece using GW Water Effects, and after almost four days (still not 100% dry) it's about ready to flock. But I'm wondering if flocking with superglue with fog up the water? Should I flock the terrain piece before pouring the water for the future? Water effects should be the last thing you do on any base. Super Glue will turn the water effects cloudy. Since water effect is essentially a glue, you can use that to stick your flock down if you like.
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Sep 1, 2013 23:02
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Ok I figured as much, this is my first time using it. The LGS I Press Gang for only has massive Battlefront water features, which aren't good for WarmaHordes. I'm making some smaller scale ones. I'll just flock with PVA glue. I'm guessing I should make 100% sure the water is dry before I scatter flock or static grass all over the place?
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Sep 1, 2013 23:09
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