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I'm trying to find an NA but pickings are kinda slim and I'd like some advice. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4011647574.html Is 4500 bucks for a really clean '94 with 169k a reasonable price? It seems like a bit much to me, but if I look for other postings at a price that I find more palatable (more like 3500), I get poo poo like faded paint, ripped seats, or can't pass smog so I don't even know. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4006007610.html This one is a much better $2500 for a '91 with 190k. It has a few dents that don't look serious, but it has the short nose crank. Even though this is cheaper, I feel like I will end up spending the difference in repairs later on.
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# ? Aug 19, 2013 19:23 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 20:07 |
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That 94 doesn't have a Torsen unless the owner put one in aftermarket. It looks clean and possibly is a respray, but it's up to you to decide how good you wanna look while TOPLESS MOTORING around the Bay Area. Hog Obituary posted:It does have all its BBS center caps though -- those things are worth $50 each $170.47 Retail $134.97 @ Rosenthal $102.26 @ Mazdaspeed Phone fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Aug 19, 2013 |
# ? Aug 19, 2013 19:33 |
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How can you tell that it doesn't have the Torsen? I thought they put them in starting with the 94? Also I want to look fabulous but I would exchange looking slightly less fabulous for slightly less money.
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# ? Aug 19, 2013 21:21 |
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1994: the only way to not have a Torsen is to have a Base package. http://www.miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf
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# ? Aug 19, 2013 21:25 |
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Hikaki posted:I'm trying to find an NA but pickings are kinda slim and I'd like some advice. One thing to note, repairs are cheap and infrequent if you are talking about everything on the car minus the body work like rust damage. There isn't very much that typically goes wrong and when it does it's cheap and easy. But yeah, on the second car if you didn't know when the timing belt had been done and it's behind on other maintenance the little items could add up. Bottom line for my money I'd want something with less miles but lots of people drive these cars doing nothing but oil and plug wires for many, many miles. Sten Freak fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Aug 19, 2013 |
# ? Aug 19, 2013 23:51 |
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I guess I'll hold out for now then. If the 94 was at more like 100k miles then I might be down, otherwise it's too much. Just wanted to see if that pricing was typical or not.Sten Freak posted:But yeah, on the second car if you didn't know when the timing belt had been done and it's behind on other maintenance the little items could add up. My main concern for this one wasn't so much the regular maintenance, but the crank coupled with the high mileage. I've heard that the crank failing will require thousand(s) towards a new crank at best, or a new engine at worst. Otherwise yeah I've heard that most problems can be solved cheaply/easily.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 01:44 |
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Hikaki posted:I guess I'll hold out for now then. If the 94 was at more like 100k miles then I might be down, otherwise it's too much. Just wanted to see if that pricing was typical or not. This is second hand info but I was told a whole new 1.6 is super cheap, less than a grand. I'd double check that and it wouldn't include labor to install of course.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 15:09 |
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A 91 could have the improved crank. They changed half way through 91. That said 1.6 are cheap and a dime a dozen. I think rockauto has remanufactured ones for $1,000. Unfortunately most have rings that leak oil. Only about 10% of the short nose cranks fail and mostly due to lovely timing belt replacements of hit it again with the impact.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 15:21 |
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Sten Freak posted:This is second hand info but I was told a whole new 1.6 is super cheap, less than a grand. I'd double check that and it wouldn't include labor to install of course. I dunno about a new one but I was offered one for free at autox the other day.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 15:45 |
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Hikaki posted:I guess I'll hold out for now then. If the 94 was at more like 100k miles then I might be down, otherwise it's too much. Just wanted to see if that pricing was typical or not. I'd hold out for a 1.8 BP Miata (94+) if I were you anyway. 1.6's are fun but the BP is a better motor. Never mind the fact that BP Miatas have the updates as well like chassis bracing and bigger brakes. The only way I'd pick up a 1.6 Miata is if I got one REALLY cheap and even then I'd think about swapping in a BP. Just my opinion. That being said, that guy is asking WAY too much for a base '94 with those miles. Keep looking.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 16:00 |
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Anyone have thoughts on putting the racing beat tubular front bar on a '99 with stock suspension? The plan is eventually 15x9's with 225's, a big front bar, and Xidas, I'm just trying to figure out if I can do it piece by piece. Slightly worried about introducing too much under steer. I drove a base '99 with FM sways and 15x9's with 225's for a fun run last autoX, and very much liked the feel & turn in, but not sure how much of that is due to the wheels/tires vs the sways.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 16:20 |
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Elephanthead posted:Only about 10% of the short nose cranks fail and mostly due to lovely timing belt replacements of hit it again with the impact.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 16:34 |
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I have to do brakes to pass safety for registration. The rear was going fine until the adjuster had to be involved. Can't move the fucker for the life of me, neither lefty nor righty. Stripped the original 4mm, hammered a T27 in there, then T30. Does not want to move. Now waiting to catch a ride to a store for some extractor bits. Any other options here?
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 18:25 |
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Does anyone have a spring or know of the mcmaster-carr item or something for the spring inside the side mirror? My mirror disintegrated and the spring is totally screwed.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 19:07 |
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iv46vi posted:I have to do brakes to pass safety for registration. Work the parking brake lever on the caliper back and forth with a pair of vice grips and see if you can get it further off. I've had that happen when it was stuck a bit on.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 19:40 |
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destructo posted:Nice pulled-out-of-the-rear end number there. Well my sample result 0%. 10% is my made up margin of error. Only dumb people buy 1.6s anyway according to my research. Buying a 1990 1.6 makes you extra dumb.
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# ? Aug 20, 2013 19:42 |
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Phone posted:$170.47 Retail I meant used... Since the ones on that car are obviously used. EBay seems to show $50ish
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# ? Aug 21, 2013 02:17 |
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I always forget to check into this every time I notice it, but why do some heads have bolt holes on both sides of the CAS (or plug on more recent models)? Is the bolt on the unused side blocking off anything or can I ignore it the next time I install a head with two?
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# ? Aug 22, 2013 05:00 |
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Spotted near the beach yesterday:
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# ? Aug 26, 2013 06:13 |
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dpidz0r posted:Spotted near the beach yesterday: It should see an orthodontist for its overbite
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# ? Aug 27, 2013 02:54 |
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Had the car dyno'd today so I could get my fuel table somewhere between 'so rich it fouls plugs' and 'so lean it vaposizes pistons' since I've already done those two. Picked up a bunch of power in the midrange by not running rich as poo poo. Not too bad for a stock 2005 motor with bolt ons and an aftermarket ECU.
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# ? Aug 28, 2013 21:47 |
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I have GOT to stop reading about Exocets. Next time I get rear-ended by a soccer mom in an SUV, this is definitely the way I'm going. Uh, assuming I survive and the Miata escapes without a bent frame.
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# ? Aug 29, 2013 20:07 |
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saint gerald posted:I have GOT to stop reading about Exocets. Stop reading and start building. For when a miata is just too drat practical.
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# ? Aug 29, 2013 20:20 |
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Exocets: the affordable solution to rusty panel repair.
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# ? Aug 29, 2013 20:28 |
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Elephanthead posted:Stop reading and start building. For when a miata is just too drat practical. Exactly. All those times I've looked at the Miata and thought, you know, this car really has too much trunk space. And it's just too easy to leave outside in the rain. And I don't need all that windshield. And I don't lose badly enough in SSM, I could lose much, much worse in D Mod or wherever the gently caress. Anyone in the WV/KY/OH area want to buy a nice red '94 tub? saint gerald fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Aug 29, 2013 |
# ? Aug 29, 2013 20:28 |
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I find Exocets so ugly. I'd rather go for the classic Seven look. The FM kit is kinda on the bucket list... So expensive though.
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# ? Aug 29, 2013 20:38 |
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So the '99 seats in my '91 are really poo poo. The seat padding is flattened and the back padding is practically nonexistent compared to the passenger side seat. Hitting an expansion joint basically delivers my spine directly into the seat back metal. Are there any OEM seats from other cars that will fit and bolt down with a minimum of fuss? Seems like FD and RX-8 seats are too wide from what I've searched so far, FC seats might fit with some rail fuss, and the m.net seat list is only for aftermarket seats if you're a Richie Rich instead of a cheap jackass like me. Otherwise I guess I'll have to try and find another set of Miata seats or hit up an upholsterer.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 04:00 |
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Well, I've heard of people using Elise seats, but those probably aren't cheap either.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 04:03 |
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Just watch CL and get a set of NA seats.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 04:40 |
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I have NA seats. Are you anywhere near WV/OH/KY?
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 15:25 |
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Well, we're on the same continent at least. Otherwise, Google estimates 30 hours of driving. Thanks for the offer though. I think I might hit up an upholsterer if I don't find any seats on kijiji over the winter.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 19:09 |
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Having owned a '97, '99, '02, and '09 MX-5 I can say without a doubt the surfboard seats in the '99-'00 are the worst put into an MX5. They're flat, thin, and not particularly supportive. A proper set of NA seats would be worth the effort.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 22:54 |
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I'll have to ask my car's previous owner about that decision. What about headrests? If I get a new seat I'd like it to have a little more whiplash protection than the current ones and I heard NA seats have terrible headrests. Seems like the M edition has pretty good headrests, so I'm guessing anything from 95 on is a good idea.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 23:10 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'll have to ask my car's previous owner about that decision. What about headrests? If I get a new seat I'd like it to have a little more whiplash protection than the current ones and I heard NA seats have terrible headrests. Maybe its just me and my old man back, but the seats in my 97 M are the most uncomfortable I've ever had the misfortune of sitting in. They feel fine at first, but after half an hour or so my rear end and lower back are in agony. Comparatively the seats in my 08 Speed3 I can (and have) sat in for entire days and been fine, so its not entirely just me. I'm not abnormally large or small, 6 feet and 165lbs.
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# ? Aug 31, 2013 23:32 |
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I'm not sure exactly which year they changed the NA seats, but when I bought Toolshack's '97 Miata and drove it home I thought the seats were terrible, and one of the first things I swapped from my '95 were the seats. Must be they changed them in 96 or 97, but the rear end pad is flatter with less cushioning and the bolsters on the back part aren't as supportive. So basically the best seats are NA pre '96. I never sat in later NB seats so I'm not sure if those got any better.
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# ? Sep 1, 2013 00:44 |
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I've driven a few NB's, I thought the seats were alright. Not uncomfortable but not as supporting as I'd like either
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# ? Sep 1, 2013 00:46 |
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leica posted:I'm not sure exactly which year they changed the NA seats, but when I bought Toolshack's '97 Miata and drove it home I thought the seats were terrible, and one of the first things I swapped from my '95 were the seats. Must be they changed them in 96 or 97, but the rear end pad is flatter with less cushioning and the bolsters on the back part aren't as supportive. The later NBs (01 and up) have slightly better bolstering but are still a bit thin and flat. I believe the weight of the seats is what drove the change in 96 and again in 99. In my opinion the best seats are the NC2, followed by the NC1, the NA1, the NA2, the NB2, then the NB1. The NCs are 8 hour seats. The NBs are 4 hour seats. The seats in my '97 were somewhere in between. I don't think the NA or NB seats would provide much whiplash protection -- generally they're too far from the head/neck. The NB1s especially -- there's a reason they're called 'surfboards'. That's what they look like, and that's what they feel like. The NB2s place the headrests slightly further forward but not really enough to matter. The NCs scored a 'good' in the US rear crashtest evaluation.
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# ? Sep 1, 2013 01:00 |
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I can last about 3 hours in the sparco bucket I have, which is longer than the oh, two hours at best I could last in the NB1 seats.
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# ? Sep 1, 2013 01:12 |
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Could you get NC seats to fit in a NA/NB?
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# ? Sep 1, 2013 01:20 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 20:07 |
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leica posted:Could you get NC seats to fit in a NA/NB? You can apparently, though I wouldn't really recommend that method unless you're getting them for pennies. I joked to the salesman when I bought my NC1 that it felt like sitting on cardboard cutouts and now I am finally agreeing with myself. I did a 6 hour through the twisties drive with a buddy a couple weekends back and barely made it, for "lower back strength reference" I'm not even halfway through my twenties yet and am of average height and build. It could be the fact that it's the leather and not the cloth seats, maybe there is more padding to be had there...
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# ? Sep 1, 2013 01:47 |