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OneOverZero posted:
I spent an entire day a few weeks ago doing rather spirited road driving (well, for a 4" lifted comanche with no sway bars and 33" tires, anyways) with my oil so low that the pressure dropped to zero going around corners. It hasn't even made any bad noises since then. 4.0s will last forever as long as you choose only one at a time: no coolant, no oil, or cylinders full of water. Actually, now that I think about it, I've done no coolant once, 5 quarts (out of a total fill of 6) low on oil several times, and cylinders full of water 4 times on this engine now and it hasn't ventilated the block yet... Sandbagger's engine apparently had motor honey in it when it was purchased, because it started making a horrible rod bearing racket a short while after I changed the oil in it right after we dropped the motor in. He ran it with no coolant in it for a significant distance, until it shut off in fact, and it hasn't failed... yet... but a new motor is on the list because daily driving a ticking time bomb is a mistake. Having one as a fun-poo poo/backup vehicle on the other hand  e: the motor that came out of my MJ had about that much ring ridge, and copper showing across 2/3 of all 6 rod bearings, but had great oil pressure, no bad noises, and ran like a top! At ~240-250k miles, after being run 4.5 quarts low on oil for approx 100 miles over the course of the previous year. They are terrible motors if you ever want to exceed 25mpg, but great if you just want extreme durability and reasonable torque/power. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 01:22
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Crustashio posted:These are the tow hooks you're looking for: Yep, these were the ones I remember.
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Sep 6, 2013 01:25
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stanced, slammed, and flushed
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Sep 6, 2013 06:25
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CarForumPoster posted:...he cant actually spell advice and yet thinks his is worth the same as a lawyers.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:56
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InitialDave posted:While I agree with the sentiment, you may want to tweak this a little... Im giving out mine for free I dont need to know poo poo about poo poo
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Sep 6, 2013 06:57
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8 ton my rear end. 
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Sep 7, 2013 06:30
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kastein posted:They are terrible motors if you ever want to exceed 25mpg, but great if you just want extreme durability and reasonable torque/power. Define reasonable torque/power, because one of my dad's friends had an AMC Eagle with a 4.0L (surprisingly not that easy of a swap from a 4.2 I6) and ITBs on it, and it was a loving monster. Sounded like Satan trying to escape hell when he'd get on it. I wonder what ever happened to that car, because I don't ever remember seeing it again after my early teens.
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Sep 7, 2013 08:46
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The King of Swag posted:Define reasonable torque/power, because one of my dad's friends had an AMC Eagle with a 4.0L (surprisingly not that easy of a swap from a 4.2 I6) and ITBs on it, and it was a loving monster. Sounded like Satan trying to escape hell when he'd get on it. I wonder what ever happened to that car, because I don't ever remember seeing it again after my early teens. The 4.0 straight sixes are amazing. I've had two Jeep Cherokees and they pull hard, even stock. With the High Output version I had in one Jeep, I could stop on a slight incline, put it in first and let out the clutch; it'd crawl forward without touching the gas pedal. Amazed me every time. I can only imagine what it's like built-up with ITBs, exhaust and everything. "Relatively" easy to work on, too, though some things are very cramped and oddly placed. Probably the easiest car I've ever worked on was a Saturn Coupe. Dead simple engine and lots of room in the engine bay.
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Sep 7, 2013 15:47
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anonumos posted:"Relatively" easy to work on, too, though some things are very cramped and oddly placed. Nothing touches my first car (Tercel) for ease of maintenance for me personally so far. Similar to the Saturn I guess, super super basic, and loads of room, even more once I took off that intake snorkel (lets not get into my early teen ricer moments) 
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Sep 7, 2013 16:17
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The King of Swag posted:Define reasonable torque/power, because one of my dad's friends had an AMC Eagle with a 4.0L (surprisingly not that easy of a swap from a 4.2 I6) and ITBs on it, and it was a loving monster. Sounded like Satan trying to escape hell when he'd get on it. I wonder what ever happened to that car, because I don't ever remember seeing it again after my early teens. I said reasonable because I was pretty sure someone would pile on me if I said they are powerful  I have had basically every 4.0 powered vehicle I have ever owned to either fuel cut (116mph) or 120 with about 1/4 throttle remaining. Not bad for a 30 year old engine design (if not older) in a car shaped like a brick. That being said I still want more power.
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Sep 7, 2013 19:08
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kastein posted:I said reasonable because I was pretty sure someone would pile on me if I said they are powerful Know much about intake manifold swaps, or swapping the mechanical fan for electrics? I've read somewhere that these can marginally increase power, but I don't feel like gambling $500. I'd be interested in seeing some numbers, though.
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Sep 7, 2013 19:20
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A 99 and later 4.0 mani supposedly gives 0-fahv hunnert horsepowah increase depending on the iq of the person telling you. I would bet on 0-5 without supporting mods (bigger exhaust, porting, valve work, etc.) As for fans, fin design and clutch or motor design will have more to do with performance vs power consumption than mech vs electric will, strictly speaking a well designed mechanical fan has less losses than an electric simply because it skips alternator and motor inefficiencies. It's mostly a matter of fin design and getting it to run at the speed you want without a thermo viscous clutch sucking up some power at that point. I am an electrical guy though so this may be wrong headed, but it makes sense to me.
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Sep 7, 2013 19:45
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kastein posted:As for fans, fin design and clutch or motor design will have more to do with performance vs power consumption than mech vs electric will, strictly speaking a well designed mechanical fan has less losses than an electric simply because it skips alternator and motor inefficiencies. It's mostly a matter of fin design and getting it to run at the speed you want without a thermo viscous clutch sucking up some power at that point. I am an electrical guy though so this may be wrong headed, but it makes sense to me. It makes sense, but it doesn't seem to work out that way. An electric fan will only work when you need it to, while engine-driven fans work hardest and suck up the most power when you don't need them at all, even with a viscous clutch, and they're always on. The fans are needed most at idle. The electric fans in anything I've converted just freewheel at above 15-20 mph because there's enough air flow to make them turn off. I wouldn't pay $500, though, that's half or a third of a damned car. I paid maybe $50 for the 4500 CFM fan, relay, fuse, thermo switch, wire scraps, and all. Love the 4.0, maybe I'll have one some day. I've had some bulletproof Ford I6 engines before.
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Sep 7, 2013 20:41
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Ingredients: One (1) busted rear end rusty Ford Escort, One (1) Welder with nothing better to do on a weekend, Zero (0) Money for repairs. Mix well, leave in the sun for Eight (8) hours, and enjoy!     According to the poster, the extra metal is from some left over Chevy S10 body panels.
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Sep 7, 2013 21:49
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"Extra metal?" That's like saying an burn victim gets "extra" skin.
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Sep 7, 2013 22:04
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Hey Londers, dont park next to this building.  Or this might happen.   quote:The car belongs to Martin Lindsay, the director of a tiling company, who parked his Jaguar in central London's Eastcheap on Thursday afternoon.
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Sep 7, 2013 22:47
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wallaka posted:It makes sense, but it doesn't seem to work out that way. An electric fan will only work when you need it to, while engine-driven fans work hardest and suck up the most power when you don't need them at all, even with a viscous clutch, and they're always on. The fans are needed most at idle. The electric fans in anything I've converted just freewheel at above 15-20 mph because there's enough air flow to make them turn off. This. Yes there are losses from the extra steps of mech. -> elec. -> mech. but it's more than made up for. As long at the thermo switch is the correct temperature they will only turn on when needed which is usually at lower rev high load situations where any form of mechanical fan isn't as efficient. There is also a noticable difference in "revviness" of an engine after a mechanical fan has been removed, especially on smaller engines. They wind up a lot faster and wind down a little slower. The butt dyno indicates there is a little more power available too, but not a whole lot. Also holy poo poo @ that Escort!
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Sep 7, 2013 22:52
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Preoptopus posted:Hey Londers, dont park next to this building. If anyone wants to know the  of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ1Hgzi2ElQ
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Sep 7, 2013 23:17
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Guys, you need to check your grounds periodically, even the chassis ones. Here's what I discovered today while doing the front brakes on  my fiancee's brakes today:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzLoeIfc5-U Yes, that is the ground strap. I touched it and it just fell off - the video says the rest. Though, in a non-mechanical-failure plus, it is a Ford Explorer with over 200,000 miles on it. Every now and again the O/D light flashes on and off for a few minutes and it clunks into first gear when slowing down. It flashed all of the time and kept burning up transmission fluid and got horrible (~8mpg) mileage, but a new valve body and filter fixed 90% of that problem. Proof that is has hit 200k:  Also, I did the brakes today. Cutting it pretty close; I'd call it a "narrowly-avoided mechanical failure."   
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Sep 8, 2013 02:59
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Falken posted:How much force would that have taken to happen? Got a question...what sort of sound did this make?
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Sep 8, 2013 03:39
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Thanks for the input on the fans, guys. The $500 was an estimation on getting a new manifold (200 at the closest pick-n-pull) and an E-fan setup with electronics I found for around 300. I might do the fan swap someday, but I have more pressing things to take care of. My brakes are starting to squeak and I'm afraid my tires aren't what they used to be. On top of that, I've lately had some strange gremlins showing up. It isn't much fun to be cruising around at 45 and have the engine just shut off and die. No sputter and cough, just die. Can't kill that little Cherokee though.
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Sep 8, 2013 04:57
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CommieGIR posted:Got a question...what sort of sound did this make?
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Sep 8, 2013 11:09
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Falken posted:SHHHHKRLUNK then it drove normally. Pressing the clutch pedal did sweet gently caress all, but if I revmatched the car would drive absolutely fine. If you revved the motor up to 3k, did it make an odd metallic rattling sound?
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Sep 8, 2013 16:10
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Nope! It made no unusual sounds when driving, I just had no clutch pedal.
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Sep 8, 2013 17:58
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Falken posted:Nope! It made no unusual sounds when driving, I just had no clutch pedal. The only reason I ask is my Audi is doing the same thing, it won't shift into gear without basically forcing it into gear, and a funny rattling metal sound comes from behind the motor at 2.5k-3k
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Sep 8, 2013 17:59
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CommieGIR posted:The only reason I ask is my Audi is doing the same thing, it won't shift into gear without basically forcing it into gear, and a funny rattling metal sound comes from behind the motor at 2.5k-3k Bad news. Your transmission may not make it.
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Sep 8, 2013 21:20
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anonumos posted:Bad news. Your transmission may not make it. It does it in neutral too though, so I'm hoping its just the clutch
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Sep 8, 2013 21:37
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CommieGIR posted:It does it in neutral too though, so I'm hoping its just the clutch if it does it in neutral too it could still be the transmission but my first suspect would be the throwout bearing.
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Sep 8, 2013 21:48
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Could be the bearing supporting the input shaft, or the pocket bearing between the input and output shafts. This may not apply to audis. Does it do it in gear with the clutch depressed?
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Sep 8, 2013 21:59
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kastein posted:Could be the bearing supporting the input shaft, or the pocket bearing between the input and output shafts. This may not apply to audis.  It might actually be the valves, I've gotta pull the head, there is some loud lifter tick going on...
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Sep 8, 2013 23:00
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Maybe it's one of your 12 timing chains.
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Sep 9, 2013 01:19
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Splizwarf posted:Maybe it's one of your 12 timing chains. .....its a single timing belt. Wrong Audi.
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Sep 9, 2013 01:20
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Oh I know, figured it was older. Worst it gets is 4, anyway. I
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Sep 9, 2013 01:27
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Pictures from on the job with customer complaints underneath. "Brakes feel funny."   "Bumped a curb, will it be fixed by the end of the day?"  "Vehicle cranks but engine does not start. Battery?"  "Left rear tire slow leak."  No complaint, just something I noticed during a normal check before aligning it. It's one way to fix a stripped drain plug I suppose.  This was my fuel filler neck on the day I finally replaced it. The screwdriver did not make either hole that it is stuck through.   "Repair tire." It seems the wood glue and duct tape put on by the customer didn't do the trick.  Brand new Kia Sedona with 1,500 miles got towed in and the right front CV axle had blown the gently caress up for no apparent reason. Warranty work for the dealer.
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Sep 9, 2013 01:37
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Preoptopus posted:Hey Londers, dont park next to this building.
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Sep 9, 2013 14:21
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To be fair, it's the first time London has seen a clear day since 1874.
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Sep 9, 2013 14:32
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Didn't the architect design some verandas or something that would provide shade and prevent that from happening, but they got taken out for budget reasons?
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Sep 9, 2013 14:39
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MadScientistWorking posted:Wow. I can't believe that someone was moronic enough to turn a building into a reflective lens a second time. The first time being was Disney Opera House in California. What is it with architects and curved surfaces that they don't realize that they might just end up turning it into a giant lens? At least with the opera house they were able to sandblast the curved surfaces as it was just a metal lining. Reflections can be a problem. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/02/arts/design/renzo-pianos-nasher-museum-in-dallas-has-sunburn-problem.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0 quote:Two things were supposed to happen when the Nasher Sculpture Center opened here in 2003. Famous works like Rodin’s “Age of Bronze” and Matisse’s “Madeleine I” were to be bathed in copious sunlight streaming through a glass roof. And new vigor was to come to the surrounding neighborhood. If I recall correctly, paintings had to be moved away from the sunlight specifically designed to bathe them in a diffuse glow. With the additional reflection, I heard that some paintings began to run and melt. anonumos fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 14:40
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Horse Divorce posted:Thanks for the input on the fans, guys. The $500 was an estimation on getting a new manifold (200 at the closest pick-n-pull) and an E-fan setup with electronics I found for around 300. Google around for "Cherokee Taurus Fan Swap". I guess the mid 90s Taurus 3800 fans are perfect for fan swaps. The aftermarket thermostats are about $50 at the parts places. I did an e-fan conversion on an '84 Cherokee with the 4 banger engine and some other fan. Worked great. More room in the 2.5L bay than the 4.0 tho. I can't believe that they want 200 for an 99+ intake? I picked one up here for 35 bux from the pick-n-pull. It was already out and in their aluminum bins. I just pulled it out. A quick search on eBay shows a 99+ 4.0 Cherokee intake for $100 buy it now with 18 bux ship from Colorado..
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Sep 9, 2013 15:04
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Yeah, 200 is insane. I think I could probably get one for 20-30 here.
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Sep 9, 2013 15:43
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