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Question; in the 2002-2007 Liberty which is the 'better' 4x4 system, Command-Trac or Selec-Trac? I've used the Command-Trac in my SO's 2004 TJ and it's worked just fine for what we've used it for but on paper the Selec-Trac sounds better since it has that open diff that allows you to be in 4x4 all the time if you choose to do so...but I also see that as 'just another part to fail' and really do you even need to be in 4x4 for pavement driving? I kinda just answered my own question but I just wanted some opinions from more seasoned Jeepers.
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Sep 10, 2013 21:23
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 06:01 |
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There are more aftermarket upgrades for the NP231 (I forget whether that's command-trac or selec-trac, but it's the one without fulltime 4x4) but I doubt that'll become an issue in a liberty. It's only really something you should consider if you intend to lift it and/or go 4 wheeling with it.
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Sep 10, 2013 21:41
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I sometimes wish my Cherokee had full time awd when there is patchy snow or really heavy rain so I wouldn't be constantly shifting into and out of 4wd.
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Sep 10, 2013 21:42
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kastein posted:There are more aftermarket upgrades for the NP231 (I forget whether that's command-trac or selec-trac, but it's the one without fulltime 4x4) but I doubt that'll become an issue in a liberty. It's only really something you should consider if you intend to lift it and/or go 4 wheeling with it.
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Sep 10, 2013 21:46
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I'm still loving my 5.9, but I keep finding myself daydreaming about modding up a nice CJ7 and taking it out to the mountains. I don't need two jeeps, do I?
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Sep 12, 2013 20:42
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Tadhg posted:I don't need two jeeps, do I? Guys, I'm having too much sex and keep winning the lottery, how do I make it stop?
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Sep 12, 2013 20:55
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5.9 CJ7
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Sep 12, 2013 21:06
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Astonishing Wang posted:5.9 CJ7 360 CJ7 is reportedly easy as hell, if not available from the factory. I forget. 5.9 would be pretty cool but I think I'd go LS before I went 5.9, cheaper power, no electrical reason to "keep it in the family" on a vehicle that old and I'm sure swap kits already exist.
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Sep 12, 2013 21:33
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kastein posted:I'm sure swap kits already exist. yep. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/cj5_cj7_80-86_swap.htm
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Sep 12, 2013 21:48
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Astonishing Wang posted:5.9 CJ7 Could definitely be an alternative if I can't track down a V8 Renegade. That said, a bulletproof straight sixer sounds dreamy. 
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Sep 12, 2013 22:17
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I was doing the control arm bushings on my MJ and it occurred to me that I am WAY more likely to reach for the hammer as a first choice when working on the Jeep than on my other vehicles. It's a supremely hammerable vehicle.
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Sep 13, 2013 01:58
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Tadhg posted:
Ask me about the horrible idiotic thing I did to my 4.0L the other day and how it's still driving   Not that this is a statement that anyone should drive 30 miles without coolant.
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Sep 15, 2013 14:26
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Leave the cap off? I had a friend do that to his Topaz, except it was the oil cap. 
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Sep 15, 2013 17:08
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Godholio posted:Leave the cap off? $10 junkyard ZJ waterpump died on my way through Massachusetts. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 15, 2013 18:04
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Seriously gently caress the hard line around the xj master cylinder. Who the gently caress comes up with this poo poo?
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Sep 15, 2013 21:21
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So my Jeep has a 3.5" lovely block lift, and I want to do a proper lift. I like the size of the lift, though. Who makes a good quality 3.5" lift for the XJ? Comfort, quality, and articulation are important, cost isn't really an issue. Edit: And while we're at it, what sway bar disconnects are good? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 01:44
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I did a ~2.5-3" lift on my '01 using a combination of Old Man Emu and JKS parts - essentially this arrangement that DPG offers. It's about the highest-quality package you'll get and OME springs are available in quite a few spring rates, nominal heights, etc to suit your needs. I went with a JKS tierod at the same time, though I do wish I'd stuck with the standard OME Nitrocharger shocks that come with the kit - the Sports have a bit too much damping for my taste.
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Sep 16, 2013 03:14
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Interesting. This looks like what I'd want. Is that pricing about right or is it available cheaper if I shop around?
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Sep 16, 2013 05:56
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I spent some time working on the TJ on Saturday. I did an oil change, and then the fun stuff: New rear diff cover:  New front diff glide plate:   I think this is a pretty cool design, with one major flaw. Since I'm a bad driver off-road, I tend to drive into stuff with the front diff, so in theory this will help me slide over things. The bummer is, after measuring before/after, I lost .75" of clearance, so I'll be hitting a lot more stuff. I wanted to paint it black because I'm no so into the bling of the red powder coat, but then I would've had to wait for paint to dry. I wish I hadn't painted my skid plate orange, but I need to take it off and do some grinding and rust proofing anyway. I also 'fabbed' a flag bracket and bolted it on to the tire carrier, between the spare and the rear door:   Now when I go off-road at Ocotillo on a busy weekend I can just bolt on the flag and I'm good to go! All I did was cut a thick L-bracket to the right shape and widen the hole that the flag goes through.
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Sep 16, 2013 16:12
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Krakkles posted:So my Jeep has a 3.5" lovely block lift, and I want to do a proper lift. I like the size of the lift, though. Who makes a good quality 3.5" lift for the XJ? Comfort, quality, and articulation are important, cost isn't really an issue. Make sure you inspect the metal around those blocks. 6 of the 11 body mount locations in my YJ were completely hosed by one of those lifts and needed to be rewelded. Two had broken completely through to the inside of the cab.
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Sep 16, 2013 16:42
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Krakkles posted:So my Jeep has a 3.5" lovely block lift, and I want to do a proper lift. I like the size of the lift, though. Who makes a good quality 3.5" lift for the XJ? Comfort, quality, and articulation are important, cost isn't really an issue. I've never heard anything negative about Dirk at DPG. The kit seems to include some optional extras (bump stops and disco cables) that add to the cost but then again they also give you new u-bolts and leaf bushings which is convenient. JKS is really nice but pricey stuff though, so I think it'll be tough to find a better overall deal. The JKS discos in that kit are probably the best out there. Just take out two lynch pins, tie the swaybar up and your flexin'. They come with mounts to hold it in place, but I think you need a factory front skid to install them. I basically started out with the exact same lift and it rides as good as factory if not better. Wasn't super impressed with the OME Nitro shocks though; my Bilstein 5100's ride waaaay better.
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Sep 16, 2013 18:44
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Ok, been reading up on transfer case swaps. Haven't seen an answer for this so I ask.. I have a 95 xj with aw4/231 combo. It should have the .750 length 23 spline input on the tc. My question is, can I grab a 97+ tc with the .840 length input and use it in my jeep?
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Sep 18, 2013 10:55
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Pressurized Running Water on Jeep Wrangler JK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5DBpzoKIMo
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Sep 19, 2013 22:58
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If I drain the radiator of my 3.8L JK and refill with premix, and do this 2 or 3 times, for all applicable purposes, is this a coolant system flush ? I have a grease pit I drive over, unlimited premix coolant on tap, and an oil/coolant collector. (This is why I also change diff oil with every oil change).
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Sep 19, 2013 23:37
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Drive it in between so you flush out the coolant that's in the engine and heater core.
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Sep 20, 2013 02:01
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I got the lower control arms cut off today - they were pretty beat. The passenger side had a cracked weld on one side, and the horseshoes were pulling away from the mount. Each hole was starting to wallow out a bit too. My buddy burned them off and welded the new mounts in in about 2 hours, pretty cool to watch someone work when they know what they're doing. He has a Miller 212 and it made quick work of the job. I also picked up a gas tank skid plate, so I feel like I'm pretty well protected now! e: Goddamn gas tank skid will need some grinding to fit and not hit the rear diff cover 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Sep 26, 2013 |
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Sep 26, 2013 16:28
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Astonishing Wang posted:
Nice! I got my Jeep back from the Welder yesterday, they welded on an axle truss, C-gussets and LCA skids that look pretty beefy, I'll take some photos tomorrow while I'm trimming my fenders. After seeing your pictures I'm glad I got some LCA skids welded on to protect that low hanging fruit. For any of you JK guys out there, do you carry spare axle shafts on trips? Which ones do you carry and why? I know for TJs you only need to carry 2, because the shorter one will fit in the longer side to limp home with. But with a JK I think the shorter side is quite a bit shorter and won't work in the longer side. Does this mean I'd have to carry all 4? Or just carry them for the front or back? I don't knowwwwww, any suggestions would be nice.
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Sep 27, 2013 19:10
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So I'm pretty sure my front control arm bushings are shot (230k miles, and a nice * thump!* when I hit certain bumps and dips argues for it.) I'm looking a the full Energy Suspension kit, which also includes track bar and rear spring eye bushings. How much harsher a ride is this going to be than the factory rubber? This XJ is a 2-wheel drive, street driven. I can deal with a bit - I have poly in my '70 Cutlass and '79 RX-7 - but this thing seems a bit rough as-is. I suppose that could just be because of the worn-out stuff, or y'know: truck. Just want to know what to expect. I'm not against rubber bushings, but I don't want to mess with them again for a loooong time, f ever.
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Sep 27, 2013 19:33
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Darchangel posted:So I'm pretty sure my front control arm bushings are shot (230k miles, and a nice * thump!* when I hit certain bumps and dips argues for it.) I just replaced all of my control arms with arms that have poly bushings. Aside from the front uppers where the axle houses the bushing, those are still rubber. I notice a very small difference in road vibrations that gets transferred up to me, but it's a lot smoother just by virtue of getting rid of the old ripped up bushings.
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Sep 27, 2013 20:10
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2000 XJ rookie question: Good  Bad  Is what I broke correctly called the "sway bar link"? And is it really $20 per link and a couple nuts or is it harder than that? Am I wrecking my sway bar when I drive on it?
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Sep 28, 2013 01:52
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Yea that's called the swaybar link. No you're not wrecking your swaybar driving with a broken link. 4 nuts(3 in your case) and you're done. e: you might need some smoke wrench to get them off. I've needed it every time I've had to replace them.
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Sep 28, 2013 02:08
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fps_bill posted:Yea that's called the swaybar link. No you're not wrecking your swaybar driving with a broken link. 4 nuts(3 in your case) and you're done. What is smoke wrench? Is that basically PB Blaster?
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Sep 28, 2013 02:52
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th vwls hv scpd posted:What is smoke wrench? Is that basically PB Blaster? Oxy-acetylene torch, AKA flame wrench.
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Sep 28, 2013 02:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:I just replaced all of my control arms with arms that have poly bushings. Aside from the front uppers where the axle houses the bushing, those are still rubber. I notice a very small difference in road vibrations that gets transferred up to me, but it's a lot smoother just by virtue of getting rid of the old ripped up bushings. Thanks, that was kind of my thinking.
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Sep 28, 2013 02:55
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Darchangel posted:Oxy-acetylene torch, AKA flame wrench. Makes sense now. I've never heard it referred to as a smoke wrench before. I'm probably going to be in that situation soon. My mostly pristine 99 XJ spent quite some time in Virginia before making its way to Louisiana and has some rust underneath it.
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Sep 28, 2013 02:59
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The nut on the axle end mount is 18mm iirc. The torx head on the bolt is a trap, it is splined and won't turn, don't even try. Just undo the nut. Since the annoying end (the one that always seizes and breaks) already did you a favor and hosed off, should be easy, pull 18mm nut off, remove old, install new.
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Sep 28, 2013 03:04
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Something I noticed while yarding for parts (found a very clean receiver hitch, sweet!), the 4.0 XJs seem to all have a short, wide radiator. My 4-banger has a more standard-sized one. Just for my edification, why is that? Is it because they had to move the radiator forward to fit the 4.0, and that's the only way it would fit? Is it like that on all of them? Just something that caught my attention last weekend.
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Sep 28, 2013 04:49
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Darchangel posted:Something I noticed while yarding for parts (found a very clean receiver hitch, sweet!), the 4.0 XJs seem to all have a short, wide radiator. My 4-banger has a more standard-sized one. Just for my edification, why is that? Is it because they had to move the radiator forward to fit the 4.0, and that's the only way it would fit? Is it like that on all of them? Yup they're all like that. The 6cyl makes a lot of heat and there really isn't room for a very tall radiator so they went wide.
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Sep 28, 2013 11:31
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Thank you all for the sway bar link tips.kastein posted:The torx head on the bolt is a trap, it is splined and won't turn, don't even try. Just undo the nut.
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Sep 28, 2013 13:32
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Owning an XJ you are going to need torx sooner rather than later, but the 15 dollar non tamperproof husky set at home depot covers 99% of the sizes you need. Put it off till you need it, but don't be surprised when you do.
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Sep 28, 2013 13:37
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