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rotaryfun posted:Is that the baby blender? Do you plan on moving to another plane at some time? Duster/Racer/Spitfire all seem really fun to fly to me and I am almost sad that I got the motor/prop/battery combo that I did and didn't start with something bigger for those planes. That is the http://www.twistedhobbys.com/TH-22-EPP-Crack-Pitts-Mini-Green-RCF-Crack-Pitts-Mini-Green.htm Implicit Assembler would have to speak to actually flying it. It does look like a lot of fun though. I'm flying the quad that is filming it. The baby blender is bigger and a lot heavier. That crack pitts weighs almost nothing and seems great for doing aerobatics in a confined space.
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Sep 9, 2013 16:38
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As Mashed said, it's the Crack Pitts Mini from Twisted Hobby. They specialize in crazy small 3D planes and this is one of the smallest planes they make. (~110gram all up) It was more fiddly to build than the FT stuff, but it's EPP foam and is also super easy to repair. It's easier to fly in the sense that you have so much power and control authority in any attitude that you can always get out. I'm still only using 50% throws..at full rate, my brain can't keep up. In the video I'm flying fairly slow, mostly focusing on getting it in frame and not colliding with the quad. It also requires near-still conditions to fly, really. Any wind will throw it around. It can also be flown in shoebox: http://vimeo.com/68489033 The Baby Blender behaves a lot more like a 'real plane'. It's short fuselage means it's got a very high pitch rate, but roll rate is moderate. Unfortunately it also requires a lot more space and so far, we've only found one (nearby) park that is big enough for it. I got a bunch of mods that I need to test out of my wrecked version before I rebuild it, but I suspect it'll be a month or so before I get around to it. (That included ailerons on both wings to improve roll rate).
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Sep 9, 2013 17:49
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Yeah, that kind of flight you can see in the video isn't really possible with most of the flitetest models. The closest would be the FT3D but even then it's a much much bigger/heavier model. If you want to dink around with 3d, I'd highly recommend getting one of the larger profile 3D foamy models like the Techone Extra EPP which is nearly impossible to break beyond a simple glue repair. Also the Sbach 342 EPP <-- pretty much the same plane from the Hobbyking US warehouse.
CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 19:21
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah, that kind of flight you can see in the video isn't really possible with most of the flitetest models. The closest would be the FT3D but even then it's a much much bigger/heavier model. If you want to dink around with 3d, I'd highly recommend getting one of the larger profile 3D foamy models like the Techone Extra EPP which is nearly impossible to break beyond a simple glue repair. Also the Sbach 342 EPP <-- pretty much the same plane from the Hobbyking US warehouse. $68!!. Only needs a RX + lipos.
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Sep 9, 2013 19:30
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Crack Pitts Mini from Twisted Hobby - http://vimeo.com/68489033 CrazyLittle posted:Also the Sbach 342 EPP <-- pretty much the same plane from the Hobbyking US warehouse. Off to RCG to read reviews and stuff. I knew getting back into this hobby was going to destroy my wallet. I do have some 2&4mm depron though and some old Foamy Factory plans , Cap 300 (36"/40"/44") and Ultimate Biplane (23"/30"/40"). Likely headed to a heli fun-fly Saturday 
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Sep 9, 2013 19:44
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NitroSpazzz posted:Holy crap I need one I was kinda ignoring all the foamies (and 3D) until I saw this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRJBmp9j8gY For me, it's the best 3D video out there. This is the bigger, original version of the Crack Pitts. I went with the smaller one partly for storage, but in terms of the areas I can fly, even the bigger one would have been fine. I still may get it one day.
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Sep 9, 2013 19:55
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That is incredible. I saw the term 3D on one of the FT builds and I've seen a few reviews of 3D planes, but what exactly is 3D? I get that they're able to do more aerobatics and hovers, but what exactly is different about the plane?
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Sep 9, 2013 20:31
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I guess a massive power to weight ratio and control authority without forward airspeed. But I'm not 100% sure really.
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Sep 9, 2013 20:34
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rotaryfun posted:That is incredible. I saw the term 3D on one of the FT builds and I've seen a few reviews of 3D planes, but what exactly is 3D? I get that they're able to do more aerobatics and hovers, but what exactly is different about the plane? "3d" airplanes are ones designed to do tricks like hovering vertically (like a helicopter). They're built with ridiculously oversized control surfaces, large wing areas, and pretty much symmetrical aerodynamics, so you can fly in pretty much any orientation. They're really inefficient, but how many other planes can you push into a flat spin on purpose and get right back out of it? This is the FT 3D: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIJUeQed7wk CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 01:31
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Also seems like most 3D planes fly more on the prop than relying on airfoils and lift to stay in the air. Great power:weight and large control surfaces mean that even if the plane is stalled you can adjust the attitude of the plane. I cartwheeled the PBF down the lawn yesterday afternoon so the depron is pretty toast. I'm thinking next build will be the 'Leadfeather Yak' - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964237 Will let me use my existing equipment and should be fun to fly. Need to order some EPP, I don't fly nice or high enough for depron. I'm thinking the lighter and slower flying plane I can build the better, may build a 24" PBF or 36" SPA3D in the mean time. On a different note I'm impressed with the nano CPx every time I fly it. Was feeling adventurous last night so flipped it over and played with some inverted in the driveway and yard. Then some circuits...good until I got to the end of my driveway and good lighting. Lost orientation and just dumb thumbed it. High throttle cut a few feet up when I realized it was going in, thing just bounced and the landing gear fell off. Was flying 30 seconds later. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 12:59
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If you're looking at deprop/epp/sheet foam, why not take a look at dollar tree board? To be honest I kinda like how dollar tree board is more bendy than depron. I cracked the main "body" panel of one of my Bloody Mick's depron Funbats just handling it.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:00
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I picked up a couple sheets of the dollar tree stuff, have a PBF almost finished and will test fly tonight if the weather cooperates. Depron is just too brittle for how I treat my planes. Also realized I drive past a sign shop every day commuting so I stopped in to see about coroplast, $20 for a 4mm thick 4'x8' cut in half (4x4) which is enough for 4-5 planes. I'm picking up a sheet Friday for some durable nitro planes to strap those OS 40FP's to. I may be nuts but I really enjoy sitting on the floor cutting out planes and designing them. The electrics can be fun because you're trying to build light, nitro is fun because you don't have to worry too much about weight.
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Sep 11, 2013 13:02
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What do you guys think about this guys way of figuring out a motor? Pretty spot on you think? From an uneducated, it seems pretty easy using his method http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1136470
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Sep 11, 2013 20:25
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It's really good information to get you started, so by all means learn the concepts invovled. But he kinda glosses over an important fact: when you change motors/batteries/propellers, the all-up-weight changes (one of the key pieces of info at the beginning). This is important because if you're working with smaller models, 1 oz difference can drastically change the way your plane flies. I putz around with Hobbyking Partjets, which are a spinoff of the Multiplex Funjet, and the weight/placement difference between a 1300mAh and a 800mAh battery are enough to make the plane incredibly difficult to fly. In his example plane, the large wing area and low wing-loading means that you have a lot more flexibility in how much weight you can put in there, and how it affects the flight behavior.
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Sep 11, 2013 21:55
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The flight time of my Nano QX is getting lower. I put my timer at 5:40 and that has worked without a problem so far. But since a day or two it's started plummeting out of the sky at around 5 minutes, if that. The mcx2, which is sharing the same batteries, has always been able to fly a bit longer, and I don't have that problem, its flight time is the same as it ever was. In fact, last time I tried putting an 'empty' battery from the nano in the mcx2, and I was able to get a good 2 minutes out of it. Any ideas what could be causing this?
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Sep 12, 2013 19:09
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uXs posted:The flight time of my Nano QX is getting lower. I put my timer at 5:40 and that has worked without a problem so far. But since a day or two it's started plummeting out of the sky at around 5 minutes, if that. The mcx2, which is sharing the same batteries, has always been able to fly a bit longer, and I don't have that problem, its flight time is the same as it ever was. In fact, last time I tried putting an 'empty' battery from the nano in the mcx2, and I was able to get a good 2 minutes out of it. LiPo batteries have a limited usable life span, and that life is shortened by how deeply you run it down each use, as well as how you charge and store it. Ideally:
Of course that's a major pain in the rear end, so just go buy more battery packs.
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Sep 12, 2013 19:33
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uXs posted:The flight time of my Nano QX is getting lower. I put my timer at 5:40 and that has worked without a problem so far. But since a day or two it's started plummeting out of the sky at around 5 minutes, if that. The mcx2, which is sharing the same batteries, has always been able to fly a bit longer, and I don't have that problem, its flight time is the same as it ever was. In fact, last time I tried putting an 'empty' battery from the nano in the mcx2, and I was able to get a good 2 minutes out of it. The draw from the Nano QX is higher, causing the voltage to drop below LVC earlier than on the mcx2? Lipos will 'wear out' so you will see a performance drop over time and the Eflite ones aren't that great.
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Sep 12, 2013 19:35
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CrazyLittle posted:LiPo batteries have a limited usable life span, and that life is shortened by how deeply you run it down each use, as well as how you charge and store it. Ideally: Ok, cool. I fly at least every other day, does that count as 'storing'? I have this horribly expensive charger anyway, so perhaps it wouldn't be that much of an effort to plug them in for a bit when I'm done flying. ImplicitAssembler posted:The draw from the Nano QX is higher, causing the voltage to drop below LVC earlier than on the mcx2? Yeah, that's probably it. The info on the mcx2 actually says that it comes with a 120 mAh battery, while the Nano has a 150 mAh one. That alone indicates that the mcx2 needs less power. (Even though mine came with a 150 mAh battery anyway.) I think I'll down the flight time a bit for now, and order a new batch of batteries when I buy my first CP heli 
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Sep 12, 2013 21:07
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uXs posted:
A few place got very good deals on the MCPX right now. Local hobbyshop has it for $80! (BNF)
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Sep 12, 2013 21:21
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Talk about making a normal Friday a happy Friday! Came back to my desk to find this internationally shipped package. I'd already received my servo package from the USA warehouse so I knew it couldn't be that... whatever could it be!? OOOOH this will be a fun weekend.         Only thing I don't have now at this point are the 3.5 bullet connectors to go ESC to motor. Think a local train hobby shop would have those or are they pretty specific to planes?
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Sep 13, 2013 19:57
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Your local electronics shop should have them.
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Sep 13, 2013 20:04
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I feel so bummed!! The orange tx that I ordered is for futaba compatible controllers. I needed to order the JR compatible module. Pins don't line up  I guess I need to start the return process with hobby king? Anyone know of any inside US stores that sell the tx modules that are compatible with turnigy?
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Sep 13, 2013 23:38
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That sucks. You could rig it to work but you would have to make a jumper cable to convert the pin layout.
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Sep 13, 2013 23:42
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ease posted:That sucks. You could rig it to work but you would have to make a jumper cable to convert the pin layout. How hard would that be? Is the futaba/JR compatibility only for form factor and pin layout? Edit: Also it looks like the power supply for the charger I ordered.... doesn't come with the charger?  So I guess I need to order that along with the new tx. Should I also order some new connectors for my batteries? rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 23:55
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Figure out which connectors you want to use and order a bunch or just get them at the local shop. On the return if you ordered it from the Hong Kong location the package has to get all the way back there for a refund. You might want to jump on ebay/rcgroups/etc and pick up the correct module or order one from the US shop if available.
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Sep 14, 2013 00:55
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There's 2 versions of that charger, one with built-in PS and one without: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6478__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_.html You may have an old laptop PS that would work with the one you got? Wrong TX module does suck...really hard to work around. The rest could be hacked if needed.
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Sep 14, 2013 01:06
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ImplicitAssembler posted:There's 2 versions of that charger, one with built-in PS and one without: Laptop charger is a good idea. Didn't think of that. The input spec for the charger is 11~18v... 2 chargers I have, 1 is a 20v other is a 19.5v. I'm guessing it'd be a bad idea to use either of those. NitroSpazzz posted:Figure out which connectors you want to use and order a bunch or just get them at the local shop. The return address they gave me is Lakewood, WA. I'm guessing it doesn't have to get all the way back to China? rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 01:18
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rotaryfun posted:How hard would that be? Is the futaba/JR compatibility only for form factor and pin layout? Futaba :  Jr :  All that should matter for the orange module is pins 1 2 and 4, which are identical. *I say should, because I'm only 90% sure it will work. ease fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 01:23
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For the charger you can use an old PC power supply just hot wire it to run and get 12v out of that. Alternatively I use an old original xbox 360 supply, which is 200 watts (12v @ 16.5 amps).
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Sep 14, 2013 02:30
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Rescue Toaster posted:For the charger you can use an old PC power supply just hot wire it to run and get 12v out of that. Alternatively I use an old original xbox 360 supply, which is 200 watts (12v @ 16.5 amps). Second this, even buying a cheapo power supply from a PC shop is going to be cheaper than an 'official' power supply.
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Sep 15, 2013 00:43
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Spent yesterday in Lexington at a helicopter fun-fly, what a great way to spend a day. I forgot how much I missed them. Some amazing flying, great facility and some really helpful and cool people to sit and BS with. I actually spent most of my 6-ish hours there getting the Trex 250 setup dialed in, smoking cigars and just hanging out. Only actually flew two packs through the 250 and a few through the nano CPx. Keep an eye out for events in your area and if you hear about one go.
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Sep 15, 2013 13:52
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I haven't been for a flight in ages. After totaling my last glider months ago, I can't bring myself to finish tweaking any of my other models into a flying state. Not sure why, not like the glider was an expensive model. Probably need to finish my FPV setup, it could be that I'm struggling to get excited about a third-person view at the moment. 
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Sep 16, 2013 00:32
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For those interested in 3D flying, I found the series of videos posted here really good: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1968864 Even the basics of how to set up your plane are quite good.
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Sep 16, 2013 18:47
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ImplicitAssembler posted:For those interested in 3D flying, I found the series of videos posted here really good: Perfect timing on this, thank you. Picked up a used E-Flite Ultra Micro 4-Site Saturday and spent a lot of time playing with it yesterday, 15" span and 35g. Then my EPP for the Leadfeather Yak showed up today and I have a OS32SX powered SPA3D about halfway done. Messed around with the Realflight flying instruction (semi-useful) and the hover trainer (pretty cool) as well. Was all ready to order a Davis Diesel conversion kit for one of my OS 40LA/FP's then he changed his website last Thursday/Friday and they are no longer offered 
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 20:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I was kinda ignoring all the foamies (and 3D) until I saw this: Thanks for the kind words! (I'm the dude flying in the video). Glad you are liking the Crack Pitts Mini...love the aerial footage. I am really loving mine as well. It's funny, it's an entirely different experience than the standard Crack Pitts. It's fast, snappy, and unforgiving. The larger Pitts is much slower and easier to fly and learn maneuvers on. Hard to beat the cool factor of a fully capable micro bipe though.  So, if you get frustrated trying to learn something like hovers or harriers with the CPM then one of the larger planes might make things a little easier for you.My favorite foamy is probably the Crack Laser though.
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Sep 16, 2013 21:36
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Wojcigitty posted:Thanks for the kind words! (I'm the dude flying in the video). Right...I think my wife would like a word or two with you... Seriously, though, I would look at the large scale 3D planes and mostly shake my head. (I still kinda do)..the only other stuff appeared to be the pattern flying and while impressive in their accuracy, also very boring...until I saw your video. I'll build the FT 3D next (I have all the bits anyway) and then probably get the PA Addiction as my next plane.
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Sep 16, 2013 22:40
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So I have a bunch of cool stuff now. Just waiting for my new TX to come in. I have 3 500 mah batteries and 1 2200 for the controller, a watt meter, and a charger. All the batteries are around 55% charged and I was able to balance them all. Is there some kind of conditioning that I should do with the batteries? How often do they need to be balanced? Before or after a full charge? Also, this 9xr is totally over my head. Is there a beginner's guide for it somewhere?
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Sep 17, 2013 03:47
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rotaryfun posted:So I have a bunch of cool stuff now. Just waiting for my new TX to come in. Balancing: I balance them maybe every 5th charge? 9XR: Yeah, it's a pain to get your head around. I will try to make a basic write-up for a 4-channel setup. (Except I've now flashed it with openTX which is slightly different)..
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Sep 17, 2013 05:34
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Right...I think my wife would like a word or two with you... If you like my video look at some from Daniel Holman and Gabriel Altuz. They are very good at doing precise stuff low enough to be exciting and interesting. Precision competition flying (pattern/IMAC) is a lot of fun to do but I agree that it is pretty boring to watch. Post progress of the FT 3D for sure...you learn a lot when you scratch build stuff. I am curious to how it flies. Also, I owned the Addiction and didn't really like it. It's extremely slow, floaty, and kind of bad in the wind, just like a light little foamy, but not nearly as durable and a lot more expensive. It's extremely delicate and easy to break during transport. The servos they sold with it were junk and eventually the elevator servo gave out and the thing was destroyed. It is very easy to fly and learn to 3D with, but still not as easy as a good foamy. If you get comfortable with the mini Crack Pitts then you will honestly get bored with the Addiction. Go for something like the 3DHS 41" Edge or if you can swing it the 48" Edge 540T-EXP from ExtremeFlight; they are more durable, better in the wind, and will grow with you as a pilot and keep you interested.
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Sep 18, 2013 13:33
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Phone/Computer is being stupid and not letting me upload the picture but I cutout the Leadfeather Yak55 I posted earlier last night. First time working with EPP...wow I love it. Don't know why I bothered with depron so long. I transferred the plan to cardboard which took about 3x longer to cut than the EPP but now it will take ~20 minutes to cut a complete new airframe. Before adding CF stiffeners it's sitting at 47g of EPP (9&6mm), I might see if I can lighten it a little but it's already lighter than the 6mm depron PBF and should be very floaty. Paint, CF, glue this afternoon and maybe a test flight. The UM 4-site continues to be great fun but any wind at all throws it around too much so I need to get better at high alpha flight so I can fly it in the living room. Then the Trex 250, after getting it setup and dialed in perfect, had a glitch or something...it's a tangled mess of twisted parts 
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Sep 18, 2013 13:40
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