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Elderbean posted:I put this together awhile ago, before I came to SA. I honestly had no idea what I was doing I just went with parts that were recommended to me. I'm trying to make a commitment to learn more about hardware now. Read the OP of, and post your hopefully revised build in, the building and picking megathread. You still don't have much idea what you're doing. That processor and its motherboard are out of date: 4570 and B85/H87 (depends on what's cheaper without skimping on stuff like front USB 3.0 connectors) if you're not overclocking (and honestly you probably don't need to these days); 4670K and Z87 if you are (and yes, the K and Z matter). Either way there's not much reason to use full ATX boards anymore. That video card is out of date and wasn't fps/$ competitive when it was new. And without knowing what monitor (or at least logical screen area) you intend to use/get, they can't tell you what video card is appropriate for you. That case is very large and very expensive for what it gives you. Power supply's solid but probably fifty bucks beyond what you need. That OP has a good selection and you're probably looking around 550W, but wait until they figure out what card you should get before you pull the trigger. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Sep 7, 2013 |
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Sep 7, 2013 14:56
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Elderbean posted:What can I do to get a mild overclock out of this? Out of that... You can set the maximum turbo multiplier to 42 instead of 38. That's literally the highest you can go on a non-K processor. I would not get bent out of shape about this, not to the point where you replace your $230 CPU with another $230 CPU and get another 5% on your overclocked clocks. Either will start to feel old within about a week of each other, in a few years. IMO, you should focus on wringing some hertz from that graphics card. 
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Sep 7, 2013 16:20
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Factory Factory posted:Out of that... You can set the maximum turbo multiplier to 42 instead of 38. That's literally the highest you can go on a non-K processor. I think 4.2 GHz is about as high as you can go on stock cooling too. Im on a 3570k with its stock cooler. After all my fiddling with it so far im getting 4.1 GHz out of it. I used its stock clock and voltage settings to find a benchmark for how much thermal room I had to play with. I undervolted while overclocking to push temperatures down. Under stock settings at 3.8GHz it was giving itself 1.32 volts and pushing 81C-90C across the cores in the intel burn test. My current settings are 4.1 GHz at 1.18 volts pushing 85C on IBT. 4.2 needs almost 50 mV more to stay stable and pushes IBT temps past stock.
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Sep 7, 2013 17:36
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So I started my first adventure in overclocking today. I had built a new system last week, asus z87c motherboard, core i5 4670k cpu, coolermaster 212 evo for a heatsink. I had the chip booting at 4.6ghz, but it took me 1.310v to get it there. It also didn't seem overly stable, I was getting crashes after about 10-15 minutes of regular use. Also, the very instant I would try and stress test with prime95 it would crash it out. So I guess my question is, is 4.6 just not really doable on these chips? Should I continue to crank voltage? It already seemed like it was getting pretty high to me. Should I maybe drop clock down to 4.2 and go from there? edit- I guess I should mention full system specs Asus z87C mobo i5 4670k coolermaster 212 evo coolermaster 750W psu MSI Radeon 7790 OC 8gb crucial ballistix Double edit- I guess I should mention at stock clock settings the chip stays around 53-55c while running prime95. I haven't been able to get a heat reading at 4.6 under load because it crashes out to quick every time I load it. letgomyAgo fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Sep 7, 2013 |
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Sep 7, 2013 20:29
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I would not crank the voltage, personally, but that's based on wanting the system to last a good while. If you know you're going to upgrade well before the system is obsolete, feel free, I guess... At the same time, you don't have to drop all the way to 4.2 GHz. 4.6 booting but unstable is pretty good. Start with 4.5 GHz and see how it goes, then 4.4 etc.
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Sep 7, 2013 20:48
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I definitely do want the system to last. I tend not to upgrade more then every 2-3 years, so I don't want to roast the chip in 6 months.
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Sep 7, 2013 20:51
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Gonkish got to 4.8 with 1.275, I got to 4.8 but using 1.36vcore. What BSOD codes are you getting? Use a BSOD code reader app if you dont see them. Usually 0x0124 or 101 means not enough vcore. Try upping it, you still got some breathing room. When you get stable using IntelBurnTEst or aida64 (dont use prime95 as it lacks the ability to stress test the new cpu instructions present in haswell) to check if your temps are ok. We both got to over 95c during intense stress testing but using intensive games temps are ok. .
Absorbs Smaller Goons fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 8, 2013 |
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Sep 7, 2013 20:53
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Read the OP of, and post your hopefully revised build in, the building and picking megathread. You still don't have much idea what you're doing. Oh, I already put it together, like, nine months ago. I made a lot of mistakes.
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Sep 7, 2013 22:43
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So I've finally got my Carbide 500R and transplanted my system. I must say I love the cable management in this case! It's easily the neatest build I've ever managed. I'm now having issues with my graphics card overheating but I'll leave that in the GPU thread. Anyway, I'm now ready to start pushing the limits of my 4670K. I've started at 1.2V just to see what it is going to be capable of and it's happily running AIDA64 at 4.4GHz. I tried 4.6GHz first and it started booting Windows then gave me a BSOD. Pretty good sign that it got that far at only 1.2 though right? Peak temps on RealTemp are 74/74/70/65 after 22 minutes. Average temps seem to be in the mid 50s. Edit: Hmm, can't get any higher even at 1.25V, not even to 4.5GHz 
Digital Jesus fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 01:01
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Try higher vcore. I'm at 1.36. 
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Sep 10, 2013 19:15
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I want to but I'm nervous about how much hotter it's going to get. I think I'm going to ditch my H80i in favour of a Swiftech H220 with two Noctua NF-F12s. Edit: aaaaand ordered  vvv If I melt my 4670 I'll just buy a 4770! 
Digital Jesus fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 00:20
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Absorbs Smaller Goons posted:Try higher vcore. I'm at 1.36. No don't. That's not a Vcore that lets a 22nm CPU last more than a handful of years.
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Sep 11, 2013 00:32
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Just realised I had something blocking the fan exhaust, at 4.3 I'm looking at 72C running maximum on IBT (not even full fans) @ 1.202 Guni fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 00:50
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I have a question for those that have delidded their IVB/haswells: is there any reason something like dental floss wouldn't work as a safe method of cutting through the glue? I ask only out of curiosity (still rockin a SB-E) and because I see a lot of people struggling with hot overclocks, presumably because they don't want to attack their new CPU with a razor blade.
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Sep 11, 2013 02:02
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Factory Factory posted:No don't. That's not a Vcore that lets a 22nm CPU last more than a handful of years. The emoticon was there to show that it is infact completely insane to push so much voltage through those chips. Yet, we do it.
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Sep 12, 2013 00:05
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Fuzz1111 posted:I have a question for those that have delidded their IVB/haswells: is there any reason something like dental floss wouldn't work as a safe method of cutting through the glue? I ask only out of curiosity (still rockin a SB-E) and because I see a lot of people struggling with hot overclocks, presumably because they don't want to attack their new CPU with a razor blade. Hammer method is the new hotness for delidding.
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Sep 12, 2013 00:50
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Guni posted:
Nice. What cooler? After getting rock solid 4.4GHz at 1.2V I seem to be having problems getting higher. Even at 1.3V I can't get 4.5GHz to run AIDA stably (reboot after 10 mins). Temps were getting worrying so I have dropped back to 4.4/1.2... And ordered a H220 with 2 Noctua NF-F12s 
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Sep 12, 2013 10:47
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Digital Jesus posted:Nice. What cooler? H100i. Hopefully I'll be able to hit 4.5ish, running Prime95 and the fans on full-bore, I was hitting like ~60C MAX and that's with the stock fans. Will probably look at grabbing some aftermarket fans soonish, as I'm a bit of a dipshit and didn't realise you could actually put different fans on it until yesterday (shoulda asked for 'em for my birthday). Also, quick question, when looking at voltages, Vcore is like ~0.88, but Core #0/1/2/3 VID is 1.202, is that the voltage I should be looking at?
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Sep 12, 2013 11:23
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Ughhhh. Here's a rant, with a hint of "help me". So I've switched out my H80i for a Swiftech H220 with 2 Noctua NF-F12s and my system seems unstable compared to how it was before. I haven't changed anything other than the cooler and the thermal paste. When my system SHOULD be idling, it seems to be bouncing around randomly (1Ghz > 3.5GHz > 800Mhz > whatever for no obvious reason) whereas before it seemed pretty content to sit on like 800MHz unless I was doing something. Obviously because the speeds are changing the temps are too, so I'm having a hell of a time figuring out my idle temps. Leaving the system for 10-15 minutes I can come back to temp spikes of 15-20 degrees when nothing should have been happening. I'm still running at 4.4GHz on 1.2V which seemed absolutely rock solid before (~6 hours of AIDA anyway, hadn't had a chance to do a full 24 hours). I've plugged the Noctuas into the PWM splitter that came with the H220 but I'm not currently using the low voltage adapters; mainly because even at full speed the whole thing is silent compared to the H80i. Despite all this my temps aren't appreciably better than the H80i which is bugging the poo poo out of me. I ended up pulling it out and reinstalling it all, just in case I had hooked something up wrong or hosed up the TIM, but it all seemed fine and I was incredibly careful the second time around. I cleaned the CPU and heatsink carefully with 99% Isopropyl both times. Does anyone have any suggestions that may end my madness, other than "put it back to stock and forget it"? I just need to learn to leave poo poo alone I think
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Sep 16, 2013 03:10
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What is running in the background that's causing spikes like that? If you were diligent about installing the pump assembly, and it seems like you were, maybe check to make sure it's nice and tight and that the pressure is even? I don't think that's the issue. Here's where I start the conjecture: when I swapped from a 212 EVO to the H100i, my idle temps remained basically the same (~28C). My load temps went down significantly (upwards of a 25-30 degree difference under load). But that's going from air to a liquid loop. Going from liquid to liquid probably shouldn't result in a huge difference. I mean, you're still cooling the thing with the same stuff, basically, it's just that the H220 has a much bigger surface area on the radiator with which to dissipate the heat. Meanwhile, when I ran IBT with the 212 EVO, poo poo started throttling. When I ran it with the H100i, poo poo started throttling. Why? I'm told to assume that I'm probably limited based on the TIM beneath the heatspreader, and the only way to solve that is delidding (which I am not prepared to do at all). So maybe that's it? I don't even know. I'd try to figure out what's causing those odd spikes while you're idling though. That doesn't sound normal.
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Sep 16, 2013 04:27
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My temps are actually worse than my H80i by a good 5 or 6 degrees after only 5 minutes of testing compared to a 2 hour test on the H80i... And the H80i had standard fans compared to the Noctuas I'm using now. I am really unhappy and quite perplexed now. aaaaaaaaaaand I had two crashes in AIDA in ~10 minutes. loving hell. Digital Jesus fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 05:41
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Digital Jesus posted:My temps are actually worse than my H80i by a good 5 or 6 degrees after only 5 minutes of testing compared to a 2 hour test on the H80i... And the H80i had standard fans compared to the Noctuas I'm using now. I am really unhappy and quite perplexed now. I know this may be a stupid question, but are you sure nothing is blocking the exhaust of the cooler? I was pretty disappointed as I was getting 90C on medium IBT after ~2minutes @4.2ghz and then I noticed two things: 1) My external DVD drive was blocking one fans exhaust (h100i); and 2) The fans default setting was a fixed, pretty slow RPM. After I fixed those two things, I ran IBT on extreme and was hitting 72C max @4.3ghz (1.2v). For shits and giggles I pushed the (stock) fans to their limits and it was around 60C after a round or so.
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Sep 16, 2013 08:19
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Yeah totally sure on that. It's mounted in the top of my Carbide 500R so there's literally nothing in the way at all. I'll post some photos later in case I've gone full retard and missed something.
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Sep 16, 2013 09:17
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I just read in the OP that for an i5 2500k safe temps are a maximum of 72C. My computer idles at around 61, and if I play a game it goes to about 82C. Is this really really bad? Stock cooler, not over clocked. I've had this CPU for about 3 years now and only just checked the temperatures as i've decided it might be worth overclocking it for Rome 2. Am I already in the danger zone? I briefly overclocked it to 4GHz last night but it was idling at like 88C and god knows what it hit when I was running the rome benchmarks but the fan sounded like it was on 100%. Basically what does it take to actually destroy the thing? Will it just pop if I set the multiplier to 45 without any additional cooling? Edit: I'm a total moron, my chassis fan was plugged straight into the PSU and was barely spinning at all, I just plugged it into the mobo and now I actually have airflow and I'm idling at like 35C. For three years I've been overheating my PC to the extreme because I was lazy when I put it together. Laterbase fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 21:02
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Laterbase posted:I just read in the OP that for an i5 2500k safe temps are a maximum of 72C. My computer idles at around 61, and if I play a game it goes to about 82C. Is this really really bad? Stock cooler, not over clocked. I've had this CPU for about 3 years now and only just checked the temperatures as i've decided it might be worth overclocking it for Rome 2. Am I already in the danger zone? I briefly overclocked it to 4GHz last night but it was idling at like 88C and god knows what it hit when I was running the rome benchmarks but the fan sounded like it was on 100%. Basically what does it take to actually destroy the thing? Will it just pop if I set the multiplier to 45 without any additional cooling? Don't go above 4ghz with the stock cooler. You'd need an aftermarket cooling solution like a 212+ or better (Thermalright, Noctua, etc) to go above that safely as the stock heatsink isn't designed for overclocking.
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Sep 16, 2013 22:12
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Well, had to reduce my 2600K down to 4.6GHz. Might take it down another 100MHz and lower voltages accordingly, a 2600K remains "a really fast loving processor" even at stock behavior, it'll do fine with a couple hundred MHz off the top... But for anyone curious, here's how it went. Here's a quick post-mortem on 4.7GHz on my 2600K - ran great with a NH-D14 for cooling and an Asus Sabertooth P67 from June of 2011 through late August of 2013. Manually adjusted settings were 1.38V vcore, set 350 VRM switching frequency, RAM at 1.525V. Spread Spectrum disabled. Voltage adjustments made using positive offsets and Asus LLC adjustments (used High for the majority of the period). Other settings included manually enabling all phases, assigning T-Probe priority, and allowing a 20% overcurrent if necessary for (this allowed less voltage to hit 4.7GHz, but may also be the ultimate reason it croaked - voltage, current, resistance... it all adds up). All other relevant factors, including PLL overvolting, VCCSA, VCCIO, long-Turbo voltage behavior, etc. all managed by the motherboard and BIOS. Hypothesized possible causes for current instability include 1. Microarchitectural failure due to long-term threshold of safety voltage. I'm not sure this is it, because it should just generally be unstable if this is the case rather than unstable at 4.7GHz but stable at lower clocks... Still, see 3 for why this is hard to call. 2. Concurrent BIOS update that may have changed automatic handling of PLL, VCCSA, VCCIO behavior - I haven't hosed around with this as I no longer need that level of overclock anyway. With my back down, not exactly getting a lot of work, so getting it back up past 4.6GHz 3. Never 100% stable to begin with - this can never really be ruled out, our testing tools only tell us what they tell us. Low level instability that doesn't affect anything visible until it eventually does is absolutely something that can happen. It was a good run, and the chip still works as far as I can tell (passes stability testing, no unusual stuff in event viewer, no application errors, plays CPU-intensive games fine) at 4.6GHz, but as mentioned I might drop it down to an even easier to achieve 4.5GHz just because it would reduce the required voltage by a tremendous amount compared to the 100MHz/core. Hell of a chip! I've got overclocker's insurance from Intel so if it ends up being a u-arch failure due to electromigration I can get it replaced.
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Sep 17, 2013 01:02
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Digital Jesus posted:Yeah totally sure on that. It's mounted in the top of my Carbide 500R so there's literally nothing in the way at all. I'll post some photos later in case I've gone full retard and missed something. Yeah, I have my H100i mounted in the same spot in the same case, with two Corsair SP120 Quiet editions in pull exhausting out the top. It's really effective, at least for me.
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Sep 17, 2013 04:55
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Gonkish posted:Yeah, I have my H100i mounted in the same spot in the same case, with two Corsair SP120 Quiet editions in pull exhausting out the top. It's really effective, at least for me. What sort of performance increase/noise decrease could I expect with a pair of Noctua NF-F12s or similar on a h100i? Is it worth dropping the 60bux?
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Sep 18, 2013 02:40
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For me, the included fans were REALLY loving loud. Granted, they're mounted on the top of the case, beneath a removable grill, but still... loud. Really loud. Even on "Quiet" they were loud. The difference between them and the SP120s was actually really noticeable. If, however, you've got them mounted inside the case, they might not sound so bad. It's just that having them on the top of the case, basically right next to me was a bit much. The SP120s on the other hand, even when fully spun up aren't anywhere near as loud. The performance difference between the stock and SP120 Quiets wasn't really noticeable for me. They seem to be about the same. Gonkish fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 05:12
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Gonkish posted:For me, the included fans were REALLY loving loud. Granted, they're mounted on the top of the case, beneath a removable grill, but still... loud. Really loud. Even on "Quiet" they were loud. The difference between them and the SP120s was actually really noticeable. If, however, you've got them mounted inside the case, they might not sound so bad. It's just that having them on the top of the case, basically right next to me was a bit much. The SP120s on the other hand, even when fully spun up aren't anywhere near as loud. Hm ok, they are on the inside of the case, so I might hold off for a bit and do it at a later stage, especially if there's no real performance difference. Might put that $60 towards a GPU upgrade.
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Sep 18, 2013 05:21
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For what it's worth, I had a H80i before which I think has the same fans as the H100i. It was loud as gently caress as well. I don't quite have room to have 4 fans on my H220 but I think I can fit 3. Would this be retarded? I have 2 fans pulling air through it out the top of the case now but I'm thinking about putting one underneath too, so it'll be half push-pull.
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Sep 18, 2013 09:22
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Gonkish posted:For me, the included fans were REALLY loving loud. Granted, they're mounted on the top of the case, beneath a removable grill, but still... loud. Really loud. Even on "Quiet" they were loud. The difference between them and the SP120s was actually really noticeable. If, however, you've got them mounted inside the case, they might not sound so bad. It's just that having them on the top of the case, basically right next to me was a bit much. The SP120s on the other hand, even when fully spun up aren't anywhere near as loud. Actually gonkish, can you post a picture of your cooler?
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Sep 18, 2013 10:09
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Guni posted:Actually gonkish, can you post a picture of your cooler? Taking this, I just loving noticed that that GOD DAMNED STANDOFF has bent again. Thank gently caress the replacement standoffs should be here soon, this is ridiculous. I didn't even use a screwdriver to tighten them, they're all hand tightened. Oddly, it doesn't seem to be affecting temps, at least right now.  Seriously. Look at that lower-left one. I straightened it in a vice and it's like that. AGAIN. loving hell. I just made sure it was tight (it was), but seriously look at that fucker. I'm worried it's going to pop the gently caress off now. Also, ignore my lovely cable management. :P Gonkish fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 05:04
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I've rolled back to 4GHz to see if stability is any better. It seems to be fine for general usage, but I haven't tried any burn in tests yet. I don't think my build or airflow in general are the issues. The hoses are quite long so it's hard to get them into a decent position but I think it looks okay? Maybe something is busted. I keep forgetting to test with the stock fans.  
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Sep 20, 2013 04:24
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I'm actually kinda looking forward to overclocking going away. Just getting a beefier, purpose-built SKU and mating it to appropriate hardware as far as the chipset and RAM are concerned are way, way easier, and frankly Intel is one hell of a lot better at validating their hardware than we are with our imperfect tools and vastly out of spec operation and suppositions. We really don't have a means of saying, for sure, that a given overclock is actually low-level stable, because the tools we have just don't... test with that kind of integrity. We're basically trying to validate with a bunch of variables inaccessible; while I've been overclocking and doing enthusiast poo poo since I got into building computers, more and more I'm starting to really appreciate the idea of purpose-built processors doing what they do rather than giving a user base the choice to roll the dice and hope for a good processor in a big batch of pricey processors. They're just so fast, and incredibly efficient with power and heat, it seems like so much effort is expended for really nebulous returns. I've been thinking more and more on it and I really feel like I could do more with an -E sku and just let that high clocked, Xeon "lite" do its thing rather than pushing performance to the bleeding edge and trading in chip lifetime for the privilege. Overclocking heresy committed, but when they get to the point where they have achieved even more extraordinary power efficiency, scheduling improvements, and in general are making kickass processors that run like a bat out of hell (even more so than today), I'll be kind of glad to be done with the whole thing. Redoing my overclock has been a pain in the rear end and I don't think the opportunity cost makes sense given my root objection that we can't really determine stability with nearly the same level of accuracy that Intel (or AMD, to be fair to the "competition"...  ) can.
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Sep 20, 2013 06:50
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While I understand the sentiment - I think in spirit that the SKUs should be validated for a high speed and turbo to their stable limits out of the box - I think overclocking has always been about getting a little cheeky bit extra for nothing, or indeed for the hell of it (certainly not nothing in the case of custom watercooling or liquid Nitrogen). I think if you aim for a modest overclock, you can get almost all the way there with no effort, then in a few years, replace it with a newer generation, faster CPU. For example, I run my 2500K @ 4.3GHz because it has been fully stable there, and I even undervolted it. Sure, a few more hundred MHz could be pushed for, but I feel like a combination of effort/heat/power faces a wall of diminishing returns, especially on the chip I have. Similarly, my girlfriend's 3570K I set to 4.2GHz out of the box has hit nary a problem. Could I do more? Sure. Then again, noise is also a major concern when I build anything these days, as I know it is for yourself. I guess basically - decent gains can be had with no real difficulty, but if you want those last few hundred MHz, you'll be working for it. As for graphics cards, I've had poor luck with overclocking them. If I shift my card at all, it starts doing horrible things (although I did unlock the shaders from 6950 to 6970, and that's been working perfectly, so I can't complain). My 2900XT (don't laugh.. okay, laugh, someone bought one) also fell over flat if you tried to overclock it. (My laptop 330M GT has noticeable gains from OCing, though). HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 10:40
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HalloKitty posted:While I understand the sentiment - I think in spirit that the SKUs should be validated for a high speed and turbo to their stable limits out of the box - I think overclocking has always been about getting a little cheeky bit extra for nothing, or indeed for the hell of it (certainly not nothing in the case of custom watercooling or liquid Nitrogen). You're not getting a bit extra for nothing. You're trading chip life and stability for it. Now whether that trade is perceptible or even a concern is another question.
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Sep 20, 2013 17:42
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I'm fine with overclocking sticking around even if it's limited to videocards eventually. Give me a bit of extra performance if I want to run tesselation or another vanity setting (also did the 6950->6970 mod), or let me push this 2600K up to 4.6ghz from day one and I'll feel like I'm getting more value out of a part. I basically skipped the initial i5/i7 chips since a G0 Q6600 at 3.6ghz was more than enough performance than I needed up until relatively recently, and there's no way I could have gotten away with that if it was stuck at stock speeds without the option to push it with sufficient cooling. I could probably go higher on this 2600K even but it's more than fast enough for my needs as-is. I'll probably replace the GPU with one of the next generation AMD cards since I'm nearing the two-year mark on it, but I doubt I'll be in a rush to replace the CPU & motherboard soon.
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Sep 20, 2013 20:19
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When I say "going away," I mean I genuinely think overclocking is going to not be possible in the relatively near future. I think chips are going to be validated for their stock configuration and that's how they'll run. Designs have moved further and further in the direction of efficiency on all fronts, and overclocking is deciding to axe all gains in efficiency to run the part out of spec on purpose because it's supposedly worth it. And yeah, my 2600K hung in at 4.7GHz as stable as I could tell for about two years, but who knows what happened to the microarchitecture during that period? As more and more of the things we rely on to move the chip outside of its nominal operational parameters are centralized, and as the design principle of efficiency over anything else begins to further negate the possible gains to be had from overclocking anyway, and - let's be real, here - as CPUs and GPUs and related stuff just gets faster and faster anyway, what will then be the point of trying to snatch a few hundred MHz? I'm very wary of lithographic shrinks and the 3D lithography required for really small and really high density transistors even being able to sustain overclocks like older CPUs could. Especially with so many OC-specific things moved on-die. I don't think overclocking is gonna be around that much longer and I'm just saying I'm okay with that. Overclocking per se started as market segmentation, but it's ending more out of necessity due to the specific nature of progress in design. Or such is my take, anyway.
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Sep 20, 2013 20:49
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Sure, as chips are manufactured with efficiency in mind the available performance overage goes down (while relative/IPC performance still goes up) so overclocking will be less and less possible as time goes on. That's not really a bad thing at all since we've hit a point where performance at a given tier is usually more than sufficient outside of edge-case workloads. The only thing I really wouldn't want to see is a return to the P4 extreme edition era where you'd have marginal performance increases priced well above any value provided over a chip 100mhz less, but without any ability to make up the difference with aftermarket parts whatsoever. For the mobile space (which Intel is really looking at anyways), focusing squarely on efficiency over raw performance is definitely preferable to the alternative though, and should lead to better battery life eventually, moreso if they ever figure out how to drastically improve battery manufacturing.
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Sep 20, 2013 21:42
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