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Weld in a new floorpan.
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Sep 24, 2013 23:00
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 05:26 |
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BraveUlysses posted:Weld in a new floorpan. Or hire Fred and Wilma
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Sep 24, 2013 23:35
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tater_salad posted:Ratchet straps would be an accepted redneck fix duct tape is pure lazy
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Sep 25, 2013 03:00
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Left Ventricle posted:I get to post this again! 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity with a broken dogbone mount. Supposed to be a temporary fix, ended up being permanent. Every time I get worried about deferred maintenance on my own car I need to remember that things like this somehow work for years. 
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Sep 25, 2013 03:04
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I cannot believe this poo poo. I'm doing my Volvo 940's brakes for the first time. It makes noises, the brake response is decreasing, it changes its braking rate during stops (pushing everyone in the car forwards and backwards), and when I took the wheel off to inspect it, it looked like only one side was making contact (and constant contact, at that; one side of the rotor was worn down more, and there looked to be metal shavings on the brake pad). I bought some rotors and Akebono ceramic pads from Amazon, and did the other side first, to learn how to do it. Then I took the wheel on the bad side off and unbolted the brake caliper. While trying to pull the jammed caliper off the rotor, I noticed it was a bit wobbly. I attributed it to the wheel being off. Then I looked at the caliper retaining bolt/wheel locating pin, and noticed that unlike the other side, the pin half was threaded. "Hmm," I thought. "The previous owner must've lost the pin and used a bolt or an aftermarket pin with two threaded sides." I began to unscrew it and it was far easier than the other side had been. "Perhaps it's stripped," I thought. "Maybe I'll need to order a new one. I hope I don't need a new wheel hub." I removed it and noticed that the bolt portion appeared stripped, but the threads in the hub were fine. I took a closer look at the bolt. They had inserted the non-threaded wheel locating pin portion into the hub and "tightened" it. It was held to the caliper by rust, and not at all to the wheel hub.  The previous owner also broke the clip points off the airbox and fastened it shut with wood screws. So much for "he's a Volvo mechanic's son and says his dad kept on him to maintain it".
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Sep 25, 2013 04:12
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"I hit a pothole I think" Once I took the wheel off it was impossible to put back on unless I deflated the tyre completely, put the wheel on, reinflated.    
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Sep 25, 2013 04:23
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drat is that a tear in the CV as well?
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Sep 25, 2013 04:40
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Least of their worries, but yeah. The steering knuckle is bent too, though you can't see it in my lovely pics.
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Sep 25, 2013 04:49
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If you spell pothole like "curb" then sure.
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Sep 25, 2013 05:08
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anonumos posted:Or use the frame rail like any sane person... Not if you have something like an S13, then that will dent the frame rails. 
D C fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 06:22
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D C posted:Not if you have something like an S13, then that will dent the frame rails. If you would have placed it 2.5 inches further back, no dent...
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Sep 25, 2013 06:47
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D C posted:Not if you have something like an S13, then that will dent the frame rails. I have never seen an A1/A2/A3 chassis VW or unibody Dodge from the 80s-90s that didn't have the frame rail on both sides, in that exact same position, caved in. Mechanics unfamiliar with either make of vehicle or unibody cars in general, try and lift those vehicles from that exact point and it just isn't meant to carry the weight of the vehicle. They all have very specific jacking-points on the body just to the outer side of those rails (you can easily see them because they obviously look beefed up and shaped to fit a standard jack), and in the case of VWs, the bodywork actually has very small notches in both the front and rear side-panels that visually pinpoint the jacking spot without actually looking under the car. All that said, if you weren't going to use the factory jacking points (or needed more than one per corner, like when putting the car on stands), I don't know why they wouldn't use the point where the lower control-arm attaches to the unibody, as that's at least a point that is designed to hold up the entire weight of the vehicle, even if it's not meant as a jacking point. Edit: I just looked at the picture more closely and realized that it's the rear-end of that rail that's dented, not the front. I just want to make it clear that I always see the front of these rails caved-in, just behind the front wheels. The King of Swag fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 07:05
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The King of Swag posted:
Yeah I couldnt find a picture of the front bit of the rails, I've never seen an S13 without dented frame rails.
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Sep 25, 2013 22:15
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It's not just Nissan, I've seen other makes with weak "frame rail" spots. It's time that manufacturer's standardized on what a jacking point looks like. Lives are literally at stake.
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Sep 25, 2013 22:26
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revmoo posted:It's not just Nissan, I've seen other makes with weak "frame rail" spots. It's time that manufacturer's standardized on what a jacking point looks like. Lives are literally at stake. They do standardise them, it's called taking it to the dealer. Manufacturers aren't interested in what some poor oval office is doing to the car twelve years down the track.
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Sep 25, 2013 23:08
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Have you guys never heard of jacking up on the pinch weld? Use the frame on a pickup truck or Panther car, sure, but any unibody car is gonna have a pinch weld running the length of the body just beneath the door sills. It's where we position the arms to lift them at the shop, and 99% of cars have reinforced spots meant specifically for lift arms/jack stands towards the front and rear wheels, which even have notches to make them stand out, like so:
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Sep 26, 2013 00:15
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A lot of shops just don't care.
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Sep 26, 2013 00:16
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Using a pinch weld without collapsing it usually required a pinch-weld adaptor, and I can guarantee most people don't even know what that is, let alone use it.
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Sep 26, 2013 00:19
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The King of Swag posted:most people don't even know what that is It's a hockey puck with a slot cut in it.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:04
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That's all fine and well on new cars and places where rockers don't turn to rust dust.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:09
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SimulatedWoodgrain posted:That's all fine and well on new cars and places where rockers don't turn to rust dust. The ONLY benefit to living in Florida, I'm afraid.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:13
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This looked like fun!
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Sep 26, 2013 01:43
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Messadiah posted:This looked like fun! I see co-ax switches and a waveguide in the lower right...
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Sep 26, 2013 02:22
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I can't find a picture but the Ford Aerostars were great for caved-in under bodies. They were kinda hard to get right on a lift and most mechanics would be like, "Oh, I'll just lift it up by the pinch weld." only to have them fold. I've seen a few with nice big crushed spots in front of the rear wheel openings.
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Sep 26, 2013 02:37
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Previa_fun posted:Every time I get worried about deferred maintenance on my own car I need to remember that things like this somehow work for years. I took that picture in September '09 and ended up scrapping it October '10, so year, singular, but yeah, it worked well enough. If the engine started rocking enough that the alternator cooling fan hit the AC blower motor (very distinctive noise), I just needed to crank the strap down again.
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Sep 26, 2013 04:05
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Saw this car next to a church baseball diamond. It had pictures of the car before and it was fine. I'm guessing they had batting practice with it?
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Sep 26, 2013 20:31
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Fucknag posted:Have you guys never heard of jacking up on the pinch weld? Use the frame on a pickup truck or Panther car, sure, but any unibody car is gonna have a pinch weld running the length of the body just beneath the door sills. It's where we position the arms to lift them at the shop, and 99% of cars have reinforced spots meant specifically for lift arms/jack stands towards the front and rear wheels, which even have notches to make them stand out, like so: Try that on a unibody jeep sometime.
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Sep 26, 2013 20:46
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Joe Mama posted:I can't find a picture but the Ford Aerostars were great for caved-in under bodies. They were kinda hard to get right on a lift and most mechanics would be like, "Oh, I'll just lift it up by the pinch weld." only to have them fold. I've seen a few with nice big crushed spots in front of the rear wheel openings. Weren't Aerostars on the Ranger chassis anyway, meaning they should've had a really obvious frame to use for lifting?
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Sep 26, 2013 21:24
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MiNDRiVE posted:Saw this car next to a church baseball diamond. It had pictures of the car before and it was fine. I'm guessing they had batting practice with it? Might be one of those, "this is what happens when you drink/text and drive" warning things for high schoolers?
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Sep 26, 2013 21:25
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Or one of those "$5 for 5 swings with a sledgehammer for charity" events?
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Sep 26, 2013 22:01
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MiNDRiVE posted:Saw this car next to a church baseball diamond. It had pictures of the car before and it was fine. I'm guessing they had batting practice with it? Nobody but Father O'Malley parks in Father O'Malley's space. Nobody.
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Sep 26, 2013 22:33
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kastein posted:Try that on a unibody jeep sometime. It worked fine on a Legacy and Jetta. Can anyone recommend a jack stand pinch weld adapter?
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Sep 27, 2013 00:01
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thebigcow posted:Can anyone recommend a jack stand pinch weld adapter? xp67 posted:It's a hockey puck with a slot cut in it.
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Sep 27, 2013 00:03
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From a QX56 
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Sep 27, 2013 02:48
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NitroSpazzz posted:From a QX56 oooo a Mac wrench, keep that poo poo. I have a 12mm Craftsman pulled from a tire that I use at work.
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Sep 27, 2013 02:57
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thebigcow posted:It worked fine on a Legacy and Jetta. http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5681&parentid=0&stocknumber=35-70000
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Sep 27, 2013 03:27
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NitroSpazzz posted:From a QX56 Wait until you see one that goes box end first. I have an awesome sk 10mm stubby wrench i got that way.
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Sep 27, 2013 05:49
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Speaking of sidewall issues, spotted on the rear of an F350:   Also, a sneak preview of a manual steering gearbox I'm rebuilding for my friend's '67 El Camino:   I'm finishing the teardown of it this weekend, more pics to come.
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Sep 27, 2013 06:22
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I don't think I"ll ever be purchasing those tires.
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Sep 27, 2013 17:39
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 05:26 |
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Given that there is significant treadwear on the sidewall lettering I would blame the owner for driving with it way underinflated / overloaded before I'd blame the manufacturer.
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Sep 27, 2013 18:27
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