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Preoptopus posted:Lug studs all day huh? How awful. Yep. That socket has held up better to it than i have!
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Sep 16, 2013 15:08
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Mooseykins posted:Yep. That socket has held up better to it than i have! Thank you sir!
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Sep 16, 2013 15:40
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I pretty much wore out my lovely rattlegun trying to undo wheel nuts put on by a gorilla. Now I just use the socket, a breaker bar, a jack handle and if need be a big bit of hardwood lashed to the jack handle to give me a few extra meters of leverage. Nothing like seeing a wheel turning on concrete trying to crack a wheel nut.
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Sep 17, 2013 01:19
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General_Failure posted:I pretty much wore out my lovely rattlegun trying to undo wheel nuts put on by a gorilla. Now I just use the socket, a breaker bar, a jack handle and if need be a big bit of hardwood lashed to the jack handle to give me a few extra meters of leverage. Nothing like seeing a wheel turning on concrete trying to crack a wheel nut. I have a 36" 3/4"-drive breaker bar, a few times i've had wheels spin on concrete while trying to break wheel nuts and hub nuts loose, have to get someone to stand on the brake!
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Sep 17, 2013 08:15
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Mooseykins posted:I have a 36" 3/4"-drive breaker bar, a few times i've had wheels spin on concrete while trying to break wheel nuts and hub nuts loose, have to get someone to stand on the brake! I broke a dodge 2500 front axle nut loose last week using a harbor freight 3/4" breaker bar... was spinning the tire on dirt with the full weight of the truck on it, had no one to stand on the brakes. So I carefully arranged my 4 foot cheater pipe so it wouldn't pop the socket off the nut and then jumped on the fucker. Came right off.
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Sep 17, 2013 14:29
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Quality 3/4" drive ratchets are where it's at. I don't think I've had to add much for extra leverage with my big Jet one. I've got the standard 3' breaker bar too. I rarely use it since the ratcheting feature of my other 3/4" is usually more useful. (1/4", 1/4", 3/8", 3/8", 1/2", 1/2", 3/4" and 3/4")
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Sep 17, 2013 17:27
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I was breaking 1/2" breaker bars literally every day I used them, and not getting the job done, so I upgraded to the cheapest 3/4" breaker I could find. Breaking a tool is fine if it gets the job done, but if it doesn't, it's just frustrating and means time to upgrade. Zero complaints  e: I am going to need metal lathe tooling soon, what am I looking at for prices on, say, a tool post, a parting/cutoff tool, general cutting tools, a boring bar, and anything else I need to use the boring bar? Used or new, preferably used. And what specific things should I look for? kastein fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Sep 17, 2013 |
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Sep 17, 2013 18:34
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You just love to lay out your thick steel for all to see don't you sock?
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Sep 17, 2013 18:58
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Jared592 posted:You just love to lay out your thick steel for all to see don't you sock? You wouldn't have it any other way. 
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Sep 17, 2013 19:41
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Jared592 posted:You just love to lay out your thick steel for all to see don't you sock? All 3.75 inches of it. Girth, that is.
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Sep 17, 2013 20:03
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I have a tool related question. I went to tackle some of the grease points on the Niva yesterday. Namely one on the rear propshaft which just had a plug which had a 7/16" bolt head and what seemed to be a bsp thread. I had a poo poo of a time with the nipple I bought. Its thread didn't seem to be long enough so it didn't engage properly before it bottomed out, but it was enough for me to pump the grease in and re-plug it. First question. Are there nipples with different thread lengths? Second question. Are different sized nipples a thing? My grease gun only sort of engaged on the pre-existing ones and when I tried to pump grease in all it did was spurt out around them. Are there different heads available or something? This is a bit of a problem.
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Sep 25, 2013 23:20
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General_Failure posted:Are different sized nipples a thing? My grease gun only sort of engaged on the pre-existing ones and when I tried to pump grease in all it did was spurt out around them. Are there different heads available or something? This is a bit of a problem. Not so sure about this, but one ball usually hangs lower - if that helps..
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Sep 26, 2013 00:25
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West SAAB Story posted:Not so sure about this, but one ball usually hangs lower - if that helps.. Checked my pants. Confirmed.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:24
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General_Failure posted:I have a tool related question. Last time I was at the ol' hardware store I did notice a whole drawer full of different grease zerks, perhaps look for that and do a little test fit there?
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Sep 26, 2013 01:27
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StormDrain posted:Last time I was at the ol' hardware store I did notice a whole drawer full of different grease zerks, perhaps look for that and do a little test fit there? That's interesting. Shame I can't remove the other ones that are already on the vehicle to do a size comparison. I suspect most of the lube points on the car are drier than an 80 year old hooker but can't get grease in because of these smaller than normal size thingers. e: I see what you mean. You're talking about the thread issue. It's maybe 10 or 20000km before I have to worry about that again so I've bought a little time.
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Sep 26, 2013 06:16
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General_Failure posted:Second question. Are different sized nipples a thing? My grease gun only sort of engaged on the pre-existing ones and when I tried to pump grease in all it did was spurt out around them. Are there different heads available or something? This is a bit of a problem. A slight difference in nipple sizes is perfectly normal.. (The 2 UJ's on the back prop of my landrover are obviously a different make to the 2 on the front prop as my grease gun works perfectly on the front ones but I have to fight to get it to stay on the back ones. You can buy the nipples separately over here)
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Sep 26, 2013 08:40
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I found some micrometers at a local garage sale last weekend. The guy selling them didn't know what he had, so I bought them... and a snowblower.  I paid $30 for all three. The B&S one is .. for lack of a better word... tight. And it gets tigher as I pull the spindle out, around .8 it becomes worryingly tight. I'm not sure the cause yet. The Starett ones are just fine though. I'm kinda excited. I've not owned anything more accurate than half a thou until I bought these. PS: Like my 1970's speckled countertop?
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Sep 26, 2013 09:06
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General_Failure posted:That's interesting. Shame I can't remove the other ones that are already on the vehicle to do a size comparison. I suspect most of the lube points on the car are drier than an 80 year old hooker but can't get grease in because of these smaller than normal size thingers. Well 10km isn't very far. Also you have reminded me that I need to find a very small bodied grease gun coupler so I can actually fit it in some U-Joints.
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Sep 27, 2013 03:38
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Speaking of which I finally found a needle style grease gun tip so I can grease the trunnions on my alloyUSA axle ujoints. Tractor supplu co has it in the automotive/towing section.
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Sep 27, 2013 13:44
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Should be like $30-$40 tops to get those mics calibrated, I recommend that you do that just for peace of mind.
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Sep 27, 2013 15:19
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I am pretty certain my dad has a standard hanging around his shop, so I should be able to do that myself.
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Sep 27, 2013 16:22
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You can calibrate 0-1 mics at the zero point. Same with the depth mic if you have a known flat surface.  The tightness means there is probably corrosion or crud in the screw. It can be disassembled and cleaned/stoned out to fix that.
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Sep 27, 2013 19:55
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I've got a chance to get some snap on tools for about half price, can order anything from their online catalog, only thing is I'm stumped as to what to get. I've got a pretty full tool chest so I'm really needing anything in particular, don't have a compressor so haven't looked at air tools but would want to get some eventually. Most of my stuff is either Canadian tire specials or from sears so not the highest quality stuff. Only thing I can think of is getting a set of ratchets but even there there's so much choice I'm not sure what to go for. Any idea's what awesome stuff snap on makes that I should get? I don't want to let this opportunity pass by without taking advantage of it somehow.
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Sep 28, 2013 18:49
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Bajaha posted:Any idea's what awesome stuff snap on makes that I should get? I don't want to let this opportunity pass by without taking advantage of it somehow. Buy all of their ratchets. You can probably even buy stuff and sell it on for profit.
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Sep 28, 2013 20:58
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Mooseykins posted:Buy all of their ratchets. Seriously. I have a F80 and it is my most used tool.
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Sep 28, 2013 21:01
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Buy an FHL80 ratchet, and a THLF72. I use these ratchets more than any of my other snap-on tools by far. Also buy BLPBSS40.
Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 22:53
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Let talk Air Needle Scalers! So I've got the B.S. job of scraping rust off of crappy early 2000's Toyota trucks at my shop and spraying them with Corrosion Resistant Compound. Toyota says that I can use a Needle scaler for the scraping process. I looked into the things and found them to be too expensive for me at the time, so naturally I went straight to Harbor Freight for the good stuff!. I initially bought a Central Pneumatic 1108 Air Needle Scaler from them for $70; http://www.harborfreight.com/air-needle-scaler-1108.html This thing is the bees knees, it works like magic for pounding the rust off of truck frames and if there is a weak spot, it will find it and punch a nice hole right through the frame ensuring that the customer gets a new frame paid for by Toyota. Cool right?! No. The first one lasted the 4 hours of use on the first frame I used it on, then on the second frame, it totally gave out after about 40 min. Due to just having a crappy day, I ended up throwing it across my bay when it crapped out on me, which broke it further and made it so I couldn't warranty it. Jump forward to last month. Due to a higher influx of our frame recall, I decided to look into needle scalers again, and again, I found Harbor Freight to be my cheapest option. This time, I found it on sale for $46 and had myself a %20 off coupon. So I drove to the closest Harbor Freight (25 miles or so) and picked another on up with the 1 year replacement warranty for ~$50. Well, this new one lasted me about 2 hours on a frame and then crapped out on me. After taking it apart, it looks as though it is eating one of it's valves inside and spitting out the metal chunks of it. Anyways, I brought it right back to the store and 2 minutes later walked out with a brand new one from off the shelf. This third one I will be using an inline oiler with which hopefully will prevent it from chewing itself up. Oh, and I'm also running it at the recommended 90psi. Does anyone have any recommendations on affordable air needle scalers? Or at least any recommendations for how to keep this particular Harbor Freight special from cannibalizing itself after just a few hours? I love this thing, it works wonderful, and makes my life %100 less miserable, the only downside is that it seems to break stupid quick.
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Sep 29, 2013 15:36
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You're supposed to oil them every hour of use or have an in-line oiler. If that still doesn't do the trick for you, the IR version is under $200. If this is what you do all day, I can't imagine that's too much to spend. In fact, why isn't the shop buying that? It will save them $200 worth of your time pretty quickly. Edit: you're not pushing down/leaning into it, are you? That will break one pretty quick. Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 15:42
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We've run a pair of those harbor freight needle scalers for dozens of hours, never had a problem. Maybe they changed something but the old ones were good. We use them on boat trailers and plow truck frames.
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Sep 29, 2013 15:42
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The shop really should buy them, but my old service manager was a bum and only got us things that were mandatory for him to get us. And I was oiling them, but not nearly at the frequency that I should have been, I speculate that that caused the malfunctions, but hopefully the inline oiler will solve that problem with my latest one. I also don't press on it at all, that tends to deform the frames and that's no good if I find a hole and we have to warranty a frame, if they see that sort of abuse and damage then we get stuck buying one and I most probably lose my job. I have been thinking about going the IR route, I have not been disappointed with IR ever in the past, so I really don't see the downside, I'll just have to save for a few weeks and make the jump. On that note does anyone actually have any experience with the IR needle scalers? I remember seeing an automotive one that looks exactly like the one I've got, and an industrial one that might have had some composite parts or something?
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Sep 29, 2013 17:05
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Harbor Freight played a role in the finale of Breaking Bad, I'll get a screen cap when I get home tonight.
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Sep 30, 2013 13:48
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I have been impressed by my HF needle scaler but I use it for maybe ten minutes every few weeks. On the other hand their stupid air nibbler is a pile of poo poo and pissed me off so much (after working great a few times, then repeatedly jamming for absolutely no reason) that I threw it across the yard, which ended in it not really being warranteeable. Oh well, I didn't want another of those loving things anyways.
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Sep 30, 2013 15:34
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Who makes a decent torque wrench? Looking for something that I can use occasionally to torque my lugnuts on when I rotate my tires; I'll also use it when I replace the shocks on my wife's car and my brother's car, but that's about it.
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Sep 30, 2013 17:43
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The HF torque wrench is pretty drat good bang for the buck. Its been repeatedly shown that its fairly accurate as well. I think if you do some digging a few pages back there is a test on the accuracy.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:39
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QuarkMartial posted:Who makes a decent torque wrench? Looking for something that I can use occasionally to torque my lugnuts on when I rotate my tires; I'll also use it when I replace the shocks on my wife's car and my brother's car, but that's about it. For wheels, just about any click-type wrench that goes to about 120-150 lb-ft and wasn't bought on DealExtreme should be fine as long as you don't go for the absolute cheapest you can find. You want it to have the torque you actually need around the middle of its range for the best precision, most wheels are tightened to about 75 lb-ft for alloy wheels. Doesn't matter if it's 5% off , really, just err a tiny bit on the tight side, like 80 lb-ft instead of 75. People change wheels all the time without torque wrenches, but it's always nice to know that things are tightened to the correct specification. Most torque wrenches are actually less than 5% off, even the cheap ones.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:41
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The HF torque wrench is pretty drat good bang for the buck. Its been repeatedly shown that its fairly accurate as well. I think if you do some digging a few pages back there is a test on the accuracy. Cool. I'll check it out. KozmoNaut posted:For wheels, just about any click-type wrench that goes to about 120-150 lb-ft and wasn't bought on DealExtreme should be fine as long as you don't go for the absolute cheapest you can find. You want it to have the torque you actually need around the middle of its range for the best precision, most wheels are tightened to about 75 lb-ft for alloy wheels. Doesn't matter if it's 5% off , really, just err a tiny bit on the tight side, like 80 lb-ft instead of 75. People change wheels all the time without torque wrenches, but it's always nice to know that things are tightened to the correct specification. Gotcha. I agree that it's nice knowing things are tightened properly. For my own vehicle I don't care too much, but I'd still like to do it properly. Planning to work on my brother's car, and since he 1) has no car knowledge and doesn't care to learn a whole lot and 2) lives three hours away, I'd like to torque them down properly so I'm not worried about him wrecking because of me. E: I also wanted to ask, what size drive would be the best for general use? I'm thinking 1/2" as 3/8" might be a little undersized for lug nuts. briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Sep 30, 2013 |
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Sep 30, 2013 18:51
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QuarkMartial posted:E: I also wanted to ask, what size drive would be the best for general use? I'm thinking 1/2" as 3/8" might be a little undersized for lug nuts. You should really have both, as well as an inch-pound 1/4 for general work. But if your main concern is lug nuts, yes...get the 1/2" first. A 3/8" will not typically go high enough for lug nuts and things like crank bolts.
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Sep 30, 2013 19:30
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I just bought a CDI 1/2" primarily for wheel lugs, but it goes as low as 20 ft/lbs so it should be useful for other things as well, if it a bit large. CDI was pretty universally recommended around the web, and I guess they are owned by Snap-On now? Either way, I wanted to get something that would last a good long time instead of going cheap, but we'll see...
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Sep 30, 2013 20:42
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Phone posted:Harbor Freight played a role in the finale of Breaking Bad, I'll get a screen cap when I get home tonight. As promised!
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Sep 30, 2013 22:24
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The HF torque wrench is pretty drat good bang for the buck. Its been repeatedly shown that its fairly accurate as well. I think if you do some digging a few pages back there is a test on the accuracy. Fyi, a local circular has a coupon for any of the HF torque wrenches for $10 each. Might go and grab a set for myself. I can probably snag the details if anyone wants to place an online order.
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Oct 1, 2013 00:04
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