Jeep Thread: Mine smells like gear oil!

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Jeep Thread: Mine smells like gear oil!

Chef Bromden: Jun 4, 2009

Finally got my Wrangler. Happy about everything, strong clutch, relatively low miles, solid frame.
The only mechanical problem it has is a whining sound. Sound kicks in after the engine has been running for a few minutes, and it only stops when my foots on the gas and the car is in gear. Both the serpentine belt and alternator have been recently replaced. Any ideas what it could be?

Chef Bromden fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Sep 28, 2013

# ? Sep 28, 2013 16:35

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# ? Apr 20, 2024 01:08

Sandbagger SA: Aug 12, 2003; Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Chef Bromden posted:

Finally got my Wrangler. Happy about everything, strong clutch, relatively low miles, solid frame.
The only mechanical problem it has is a whining sound. Sound kicks in after the engine has been running for a few minutes, and it only stops when my foots on the gas. Both the serpentine belt and alternator have been recently replaced. Any ideas what it could be?

What year is it? Just curious.

It looks pretty great.

Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Sep 28, 2013

# ? Sep 28, 2013 17:10

Chef Bromden: Jun 4, 2009

Sandbagger SA posted:

What year is it? Just curious.

It looks pretty great.

'95

# ? Sep 28, 2013 17:44

tuna: Jul 17, 2003

Some pictures of the Artec axle armor recently installed:

Kind of hard to see the truss here but that's an idea of it.

The C-gussets.

LCA skids.

# ? Sep 28, 2013 23:10

jonathan: Jul 3, 2005; by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Image dump!

Nonda Creek Tower Road in Northern BC.

Clicking this KML file should launch google maps/earth and show the track.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4Rhnfc1bgENaEwzM3ZjVjVZNEk/edit?usp=sharing

# ? Sep 29, 2013 00:58

briefcasefullof: Sep 25, 2004; [This Space for Rent]

My current ride* is getting up there in miles, so I'm considering what to buy for my next vehicle (in a few years), and I'm thinking about getting a Jeep as a daily driver / sometimes offroad truck. I've been reading through this thread, but a lot of the images are broken in the early pages, so I am a little under informed about the various models.

I mean, my dad's got a 2007, 08, or 09 (not sure which) model Rubicon. He's had a little bit of work done to it, so it's pretty awesome. I'd like something similar, but I'm not sure where to start. I do know what I want: AC/Heat (Apparently some lack this), 4wd, manual transmission, hard top, and only having 2 seats (or small rear seats) is fine with me. I won't be doing anything really crazy with it, like rock climbing. Mainly for the occasional ride through some farmland or woods after rain; it'll mostly be something I'd drive every day. I had a MT in my Ranger a few years back, and I miss it. It's a pain in the butt sometimes in traffic, but it's also really fun to drive.

Oh, and a snorkel kit because that's just neat. I hope all of this doesn't make me a terrible, douchy person :ohdear:

*F150. Not worth anything substantial in trade-in, so I'll probably keep it as having a truck is damned handy. At least, until I sell it off to buy a diesel in a few years.

# ? Sep 29, 2013 06:53

mod sassinator: Dec 13, 2006; I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

QuarkMartial posted:

My current ride* is getting up there in miles, so I'm considering what to buy for my next vehicle (in a few years), and I'm thinking about getting a Jeep as a daily driver / sometimes offroad truck. I've been reading through this thread, but a lot of the images are broken in the early pages, so I am a little under informed about the various models.

I mean, my dad's got a 2007, 08, or 09 (not sure which) model Rubicon. He's had a little bit of work done to it, so it's pretty awesome. I'd like something similar, but I'm not sure where to start. I do know what I want: AC/Heat (Apparently some lack this), 4wd, manual transmission, hard top, and only having 2 seats (or small rear seats) is fine with me. I won't be doing anything really crazy with it, like rock climbing. Mainly for the occasional ride through some farmland or woods after rain; it'll mostly be something I'd drive every day. I had a MT in my Ranger a few years back, and I miss it. It's a pain in the butt sometimes in traffic, but it's also really fun to drive.

Oh, and a snorkel kit because that's just neat. I hope all of this doesn't make me a terrible, douchy person

*F150. Not worth anything substantial in trade-in, so I'll probably keep it as having a truck is damned handy. At least, until I sell it off to buy a diesel in a few years.

If your budget allows, a 2012 or higher model year Wrangler is the way to go so you get the better Pentastar V6 with almost 280+hp (compared to about 200hp in earlier years). It sounds like a Rubicon is probably overkill for what you want, so I'd look for just the normal trim with 4wd and manual transmission.

Snorkels look neat but you need to do a lot more waterproofing to really drive through water up to the engine bay. I don't think it's worth hacking a hole into the fender just for a daily driver.

# ? Sep 29, 2013 07:03

briefcasefullof: Sep 25, 2004; [This Space for Rent]

mod sassinator posted:

If your budget allows, a 2012 or higher model year Wrangler is the way to go so you get the better Pentastar V6 with almost 280+hp (compared to about 200hp in earlier years). It sounds like a Rubicon is probably overkill for what you want, so I'd look for just the normal trim with 4wd and manual transmission.

Snorkels look neat but you need to do a lot more waterproofing to really drive through water up to the engine bay. I don't think it's worth hacking a hole into the fender just for a daily driver.

My budget is probably going to be around 8-10,000 in a couple of years. Good to know about the snorkel. I'm planning to take some time to learn a whole lot about them so I get exactly what I want.

# ? Sep 29, 2013 13:43

Philip J Fry: Apr 25, 2007; go outside and have a blast

CharlieWhiskey posted:

Thank you all for the sway bar link tips.

Thank you in particular for this because I was just about to waste money on a set of torx drivers. I can now much more wisely blow that money on booze.

If you do intend on removing those factory Torx, you're going to need a puller. Preferably two-jaw as the orientation of three-jaw (which can be adjusted if it has that black piece) makes it tough to stay in place once you get some serious tension on it.

Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Sep 29, 2013

# ? Sep 29, 2013 14:31

Godholio: Aug 28, 2002; Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Out here, 8-10k gets you a beat up YJ. Last year I bought I new '12 because it was cheaper than almost anything '09-11 used.

# ? Sep 29, 2013 19:06

mattfl: Aug 27, 2004

To give you guys an idea of what we do with our Jeeps here in Florida here's a video I took yesterday of our outing.

https://vimeo.com/75707451

Following around my friend in his 10A Rubi through our somewhat local off road park.

# ? Sep 29, 2013 20:13

briefcasefullof: Sep 25, 2004; [This Space for Rent]

I don't know how good any of this is, aside from the C7 being good, but 12.5 gets you this:
http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4079404989.html

We'll just see how it goes. I'm going to buy a house first, and then my wife has got to have something else to drive before me. After that, it's fair game, though, and I'm thinking I can put up 10 grand (in four or five years) for something I really want and know a lot about. Any good resources on Jeeps, aside from this thread?

# ? Sep 30, 2013 01:59

tuna: Jul 17, 2003

mattfl posted:

To give you guys an idea of what we do with our Jeeps here in Florida here's a video I took yesterday of our outing.

https://vimeo.com/75707451

Following around my friend in his 10A Rubi through our somewhat local off road park.

Looks like a fun spot, especially if its local and handy to get to.

I really wish I had access to this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mg_nUf2W6vU

# ? Sep 30, 2013 02:17

Sandbagger SA: Aug 12, 2003; Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

QuarkMartial posted:

I don't know how good any of this is, aside from the C7 being good, but 12.5 gets you this:
http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4079404989.html

We'll just see how it goes. I'm going to buy a house first, and then my wife has got to have something else to drive before me. After that, it's fair game, though, and I'm thinking I can put up 10 grand (in four or five years) for something I really want and know a lot about. Any good resources on Jeeps, aside from this thread?

There's not much CJ7 left on that jeep outside the frame and body.

# ? Sep 30, 2013 02:27

mattfl: Aug 27, 2004

tuna posted:

Looks like a fun spot, especially if its local and handy to get to.

I really wish I had access to this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mg_nUf2W6vU

It's about an hour and a half drive to get there. We probably spend 5+ hours there everytime we go though.

# ? Sep 30, 2013 02:40

Astonishing Wang: Nov 3, 2004

Sandbagger SA posted:

There's not much CJ7 left on that jeep outside the frame and body.

That might not be practical to DD either - but I could be wrong. It would definitely be FUN to DD.

Yesterday I took out my front drive shaft to replace the u-joints, as it was getting pretty noisy. It looks like the factory joints are still on there after 150k miles. I could be wrong but they matched the patina of the shaft pretty well!

Getting to the bolts on the transfer-case side was a pain in the rear end, so I took off the skid plate. It looks like my belly hangs pretty low

Does anyone know how to put an NP231 transfer case into neutral so that the front shaft will spin freely? That would've saved me a ton of time. I tried just shifting it into N but it still wouldn't spin.

The centering ball assembly looks ok still, but the rubber ring around it is all cracked. I might just replace the whole thing since it's already apart.

Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Sep 30, 2013

# ? Sep 30, 2013 15:03

EightBit: Jan 7, 2006; I spent money on this line of text just to make the "Stupid Newbie" go away.

It should spin freely in neutral and in 2h, that you can't is a bit worrying.

# ? Sep 30, 2013 20:21

Astonishing Wang: Nov 3, 2004

EightBit posted:

It should spin freely in neutral and in 2h, that you can't is a bit worrying.

Would I perhaps need the wheels off the ground? Does a locker change anything in this regard? Trying to move it by hand only gets about an inch of rotational movement.

# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:16

kastein: Aug 31, 2011; Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Did you disconnect the end at the differential already? If you haven't, do so. Leaving the diff end of the driveshaft connected will keep it from spinning unless you take at least one wheel off the ground, or both with some lockers (depending on how much torque it takes to engage, or whether they're selectable.)

A vac disconnect axle means all bets are off and it depends on whether there is enough vacuum left to move the shift solenoid into freewheel, but IIRC you have a TJ so that is irrelevant.

Then use 2hi/4hi to spin the driveshaft and hold it so you can get at each bolt in turn to break them loose. Use a 6 point wrench, preferably 5/16 but 8mm will work as long as it is high quality, not worn out, and 6 point.

E: pictures finally loaded, yeah, just detach the axle end first when pulling it and reattach the transfer case end first when installing.

You should be using a new strap kit at the diff end when reinstalling, usually they can be reused a time or two but after that they are too stretched to hold the bearing caps securely. Part number is 2-70-18x from dana/spicer and northerndrivetrain has them for quite cheap.

If the strap bolts were hard to get out, I like to chase the threads with a tap before reassembly, they are 1/4-28 UNF threads.

kastein fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Sep 30, 2013

# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:25

Astonishing Wang: Nov 3, 2004

kastein posted:

Did you disconnect the end at the differential already? If you haven't, do so. Leaving the diff end of the driveshaft connected will keep it from spinning unless you take at least one wheel off the ground, or both with some lockers (depending on how much torque it takes to engage, or whether they're selectable.)

A vac disconnect axle means all bets are off and it depends on whether there is enough vacuum left to move the shift solenoid into freewheel, but IIRC you have a TJ so that is irrelevant.

Then use 2hi/4hi to spin the driveshaft and hold it so you can get at each bolt in turn to break them loose. Use a 6 point wrench, preferably 5/16 but 8mm will work as long as it is high quality, not worn out, and 6 point.

That's what I did wrong then. I took the straps and bolts off of the diff side, but I didn't break it loose. I ended up getting three out of four bolts on the t-case side and then resorting to dropping the belly pan.

Here's the centering ball assembly - I ordered a replacement from Northern Drivetrain. Hopefully this has everything I need so I can just toss mine and put this in.

# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:36

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Dumb question:

I've got a 2000 Cherokee with a Dana 30 front, and a LockRite locker in it. When I drive it in 2WD, there's a pretty definite throttle related clacking noise - like a rattle, but heavier. There's a pretty noticeable vibration from the front right corner with it. It happens starting from a dead stop, goes away relatively quickly (20-30ft traveled, I'd estimate), and also happens relatively constantly when going around right turns (but not left turns). Letting off of the throttle stops it immediately. Is this just the locker, or is there something else that could cause this?

We've checked and there's no obvious play in any of the front end hardware, so I'm kind of at a loss if it isn't the locker.

# ? Oct 1, 2013 07:32

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Astonishing Wang posted:

That might not be practical to DD either - but I could be wrong. It would definitely be FUN to DD.

Yesterday I took out my front drive shaft to replace the u-joints, as it was getting pretty noisy. It looks like the factory joints are still on there after 150k miles. I could be wrong but they matched the patina of the shaft pretty well!

Getting to the bolts on the transfer-case side was a pain in the rear end, so I took off the skid plate. It looks like my belly hangs pretty low Does anyone know how to put an NP231 transfer case into neutral so that the front shaft will spin freely? That would've saved me a ton of time. I tried just shifting it into N but it still wouldn't spin.

The centering ball assembly looks ok still, but the rubber ring around it is all cracked. I might just replace the whole thing since it's already apart.

I'll trade you. Mine has almost that much metal left...

# ? Oct 1, 2013 14:25

mod sassinator: Dec 13, 2006; I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

Krakkles posted:

Dumb question:

I've got a 2000 Cherokee with a Dana 30 front, and a LockRite locker in it. When I drive it in 2WD, there's a pretty definite throttle related clacking noise - like a rattle, but heavier. There's a pretty noticeable vibration from the front right corner with it. It happens starting from a dead stop, goes away relatively quickly (20-30ft traveled, I'd estimate), and also happens relatively constantly when going around right turns (but not left turns). Letting off of the throttle stops it immediately. Is this just the locker, or is there something else that could cause this?

We've checked and there's no obvious play in any of the front end hardware, so I'm kind of at a loss if it isn't the locker.

How are the wheel bearings? I'd jack up each wheel and jiggle them around forcefully to see if there's any play. Also spin them and if the bearing is bad enough you'll hear it for sure.

# ? Oct 2, 2013 01:49

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

mod sassinator posted:

How are the wheel bearings? I'd jack up each wheel and jiggle them around forcefully to see if there's any play. Also spin them and if the bearing is bad enough you'll hear it for sure.

Took me a while to have time to crawl under it. Ok, so the wheel bearings are good - no noise, resistance, vibration, or play. When I turn the right front wheel slowly, I get the clack clack clack of the LockRite - which I expect. If I grab the wheel and turn it forcefully (basically throw it), it gets a lot louder. I think that's what the noise is (it sounds the same), but I don't know if I need to worry.

I also got the hop/chirp doing a full lock left (U turn) tonight - not the same noise, but I thought it was interesting.

I'm thinking that it IS the locker, and that it's different right / left because of the unequal shaft lengths - the longer shaft on the right puts more force on it. Does this sound right?

I'm thinking I'm going to throw my GoPro under the car tomorrow and get some video / record the noise, so I'll post that when I get it done.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Oct 3, 2013

# ? Oct 3, 2013 07:56

BoostCreep: May 3, 2004; Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?; Grimey Drawer

Krakkles posted:

Dumb question:

I've got a 2000 Cherokee with a Dana 30 front, and a LockRite locker in it. When I drive it in 2WD, there's a pretty definite throttle related clacking noise - like a rattle, but heavier. There's a pretty noticeable vibration from the front right corner with it. It happens starting from a dead stop, goes away relatively quickly (20-30ft traveled, I'd estimate), and also happens relatively constantly when going around right turns (but not left turns). Letting off of the throttle stops it immediately. Is this just the locker, or is there something else that could cause this?

We've checked and there's no obvious play in any of the front end hardware, so I'm kind of at a loss if it isn't the locker.

I remember having a problem similar to this on my 01 XJ. It was a few years ago and my memory is fairly foggy, but I think it was the steering box bracket where it bolts to the frame that was loose. You have to tighten the bolts that go vertically into the frame from below near the driver side wheel. It would only happen when turning one direction (I think it was right as well).

# ? Oct 3, 2013 11:37

kastein: Aug 31, 2011; Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

There are no vertical bolts on the frame in that area except for the sway bar mount bolts iirc but it is still something to check.

Check the fluid level in the front diff (add more till it comes out the fill plug) because auto lockers get very loud when they are low on fluid. Also check the ujoints at the steering knuckles, those being seized or worn out could easily cause the lurching/hopping/squeaking when turning sharply.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 12:09

Astonishing Wang: Nov 3, 2004

I got the gas tank skid plate put on, just had to grind away part of the back lip to clear the rear diff cover.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 16:12

Veeb0rg: Jul 24, 2001; THIS CONVERSATION IS NONPRODUCTIVE!

My buddy pulled the interior of his jeep out for a pan replacement. He posted this pic with the caption "the jeep's floor pan cut itself out"

He managed to find an OEM full floor pan to replace this with. His jeep makes me feel happy that I only have 2 holes to deal with.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 21:17

Astonishing Wang: Nov 3, 2004

Veeb0rg posted:

My buddy pulled the interior of his jeep out for a pan replacement. He posted this pic with the caption "the jeep's floor pan cut itself out"

He managed to find an OEM full floor pan to replace this with. His jeep makes me feel happy that I only have 2 holes to deal with.

Had nobody ever put their foot down and felt the breeze?!

# ? Oct 3, 2013 22:12

Veeb0rg: Jul 24, 2001; THIS CONVERSATION IS NONPRODUCTIVE!

Astonishing Wang posted:

Had nobody ever put their foot down and felt the breeze?!

He knew it had bad floors, I think it rusted all around the edge and he just pulled the center out and took the photo. Everythings been trimmed and coated in chassis saver. The new pan gets welded in tonight.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 22:30

Sandbagger SA: Aug 12, 2003; Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

I threw the body pieces of my CJ2A back together and rolled it out of the shitlogic shelter they were in. I suppose once I get a job I'll have to start looking at actually getting it going.

Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Oct 4, 2013

# ? Oct 4, 2013 04:53

Astonishing Wang: Nov 3, 2004

I ordered my slip yoke eliminator kit and rear DC drive shaft today :woop:

# ? Oct 4, 2013 18:00

Godholio: Aug 28, 2002; Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?

Girlfriend bought me a Spiderwebshade for the JK as a birthday present.

The bad thing about having a birthday this late in the year is that it loving snowed yesterday. I installed it anyway, under the top.

# ? Oct 4, 2013 20:33

mattfl: Aug 27, 2004

Godholio posted:

Girlfriend bought me a Spiderwebshade for the JK as a birthday present.

The bad thing about having a birthday this late in the year is that it loving snowed yesterday. I installed it anyway, under the top.

I'm hoping to get one for Xmas.

btw, I had my top down all day today

# ? Oct 4, 2013 22:13

SlowlyChoking: Nov 23, 2004; Open fierce skies on me, on a bird and we experience the new death indeed.

Just bought my first Jeep, a 2000 XJ and I couldn't be happier. For the first time in my life I am actually looking forward to driving in these Wisconsin winters.

# ? Oct 5, 2013 06:51

tuna: Jul 17, 2003

Godholio posted:

Girlfriend bought me a Spiderwebshade for the JK as a birthday present.

The bad thing about having a birthday this late in the year is that it loving snowed yesterday. I installed it anyway, under the top.

Yeah I've left mine on permanently since I first installed it, top or no top. With the top on its sort of a cool compartment to store jackets and poo poo.

# ? Oct 5, 2013 07:54

Sandbagger SA: Aug 12, 2003; Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

I've got 99 problems but parking ain't one.

# ? Oct 5, 2013 15:32

Audiologic: Feb 3, 2009

Veeb0rg posted:

My buddy pulled the interior of his jeep out for a pan replacement. He posted this pic with the caption "the jeep's floor pan cut itself out"

He managed to find an OEM full floor pan to replace this with. His jeep makes me feel happy that I only have 2 holes to deal with.

Hah, looks exactly like my cherokee did.

I both regret and don't regret choosing to redo the floor with 18g, because a replacement floor pan would have been a SHITLOAD easier than shaping this poo poo for the transmission tunnel by hand.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 10:01

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

kastein posted:

There are no vertical bolts on the frame in that area except for the sway bar mount bolts iirc but it is still something to check.

Check the fluid level in the front diff (add more till it comes out the fill plug) because auto lockers get very loud when they are low on fluid. Also check the ujoints at the steering knuckles, those being seized or worn out could easily cause the lurching/hopping/squeaking when turning sharply.

U Joints are replaced, fluid is good. Going to look for that steering box and see if there isn't something there - I'm kind of running out of ideas

# ? Oct 6, 2013 17:41

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# ? Apr 20, 2024 01:08

Sandbagger SA: Aug 12, 2003; Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Audiologic posted:

Hah, looks exactly like my cherokee did.

The 48 Willys under 3 layers of patch metal. I pretty much need to grab a replacement floor if I plan on doing anything with this tub.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 23:27

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