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VelociBacon posted:If I have 6x9's on my parcel shelf would it affect them to put a couple 12" subs in the trunk? Seems like they'd be sharing the same compartment. Your subs will be in their own enclosure. So no, they'll be fine.
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Oct 4, 2013 06:58
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Not much to do about car audio, but I figured this might be a good place to ask anyway: where can I get that black non-sticky-yet-sticks-to-itself wrap that is used for making cable harnesses? I'm rewiring my car for powered seats, and figured I'd try to make it look reasonably stock. Suggestions for alternatives also very welcome.
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Oct 6, 2013 14:04
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bolind posted:Not much to do about car audio, but I figured this might be a good place to ask anyway: where can I get that black non-sticky-yet-sticks-to-itself wrap that is used for making cable harnesses? I'm rewiring my car for powered seats, and figured I'd try to make it look reasonably stock. It's called "tesa tape", and it actually is slightly sticky to begin with (to help you get it on and hold in place). It just doesn't stick very well long term, which is a good thing for the application you are looking at.
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Oct 6, 2013 16:57
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Isn't Tesa just a manufacturer of all things tape, just like 3M?
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Oct 6, 2013 18:13
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bolind posted:Isn't Tesa just a manufacturer of all things tape, just like 3M? Yes, they are a manufacturer, but a quick amazon or google search for "tesa tape" will show you what you are looking for. Saying "tesa tape" is like calling a copier a "xerox machine."
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Oct 6, 2013 18:39
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Thanks, worked a lot better once I tricked the internet into believing I was an American. For reference, it has Tesa number 51608 (for 19mm x 15m in black.)
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Oct 6, 2013 19:16
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I have a dumb car audio question, I tried googling for the answer but I figure its better to try to explain it to people who know what they're doing. Car: 2000 Accord Coupe Stereo: JVC KW-HDR81BT Amp: Boss R1100M Sub: Unknown Rockford Fosgate 12" I recently was given the rockford fosgate 12" sub in a q-logic box by a family member. They had been given it as a gift ten years ago or so but they are hoarders so it just sat in their garage collecting dust. Since that was free I decided to spend $50 on a cheap amp to see what I could do with it. Turns out the factory headunit didn't have RCA out for the sub and I suck at wiring so I got the new stereo on Saturday. The radio works fine. Everything with the harness seems to have gone well, front/rear left/right all seem fine, but the sub isn't doing anything at all. The amp lights up, I took checked all the fuses which are fine and a multimeter is showing it getting 12v in the trunk. The amp is connected with this kit which seems adequate. For the speaker wiring I'm using the wiring harness on the stereo itself for the four cabin speakers like I figured you're supposed to do. Then for the sub I'm using the RCA outs. There are RCA outs for front/rear, should I have used those instead of the speaker wires from the harness for the cabin speakers? I've messed with every sub setting in the radio menu I could fine. Changing output, hpf, lpf, none of that seems to make a difference. I do have a multimeter but I'm not too sure where to test to identify potential problems. While troubleshooting I unscrewed the little wiring port in the sub box to make sure it was all connected inside and saw that the sub is rated for 8ohm. That cheap amp lists itself as 1100@2ohms, 250@4ohms. Is it not putting any sound out because the amp just can't power the sub? I didn't see any model number on the sub itself and I can't find much about it on google. I know its old, the design on it isn't anywhere in RF's current lineup. I don't have another amp or speaker to test it with. I might run to a local car audio shop tomorrow to see if they can just hook up another sub to it to tell me if its a problem with my wiring or what. I really should have taken an electronics class in high school or college, this stuff confuses me. I don't want to shake my neighborhood, I thought one 12" sub would sound nice. The whole ohm thing could just be a red herring for all I know, but its the only place I see where the numbers don't match up. edit: I guess one option is to either get a second 8ohm sub to run parallel or just get a new single sub that is 4ohm? edit2: Or just a wiring issue that I'm overthinking. Pivit fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Oct 6, 2013 |
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Oct 6, 2013 19:19
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The amp can power an 8 ohm sub, it'll just put out half the power than it would with a 4 ohm. Have you already set the gain/level on the amp? I'd also try disconnecting the sub from the amp and setting your multimeter to resistance (ohms) - check the sub itself.
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Oct 7, 2013 01:28
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Well, it works now. It could have been any number of things fiddling with it over an hour but I think the culprit was the rca shield ground. I had just put the ground from the stereo to the ground from the factory harness when I was doing all the harness stuff. While reading the directions putting the stereo itself I saw that if you had to use a 3rd party mounting bracket you were supposed to put the ground somewhere on the chassis/firewall instead of using the harness one but thought "hey a ground is a ground". So yup, I'm an idiot that doesn't know how to follow directions. Turns out you aren't supposed to skip steps. Sounds great now on the inside, and you can't really hear it on the outside. Perfect.
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Oct 7, 2013 03:05
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Hey so I'm completely car and stereo and wiring illiterate, but hopefully you guys can help me despite all that. I'm looking to install a new head unit and a new pair of rear deck speakers in my 1994 525i. Between Crutchfield and my own basic investigating I've decided on this Kenwood KDC-152 head unit, and these Sony XS-GT1338F speakers. However I do have a few questions: 1. Crutchfield recommends I get a Scosche speaker 4 channel output converter. What's the difference in that and say a $2 Metra wiring harness? Is it a case of quality in what you pay for, or do they perform different functions? Do I need both or one or the other? Or even neither? 2. I'd like to keep my kicker panel speakers as I really don't feel like loving with the door panel removal right now, and also they're both functioning perfectly fine. Is there a potential issue running my stock speakers to that head unit? 3. Is there anything else I need than the things linked here (Head unit, speakers, a harness or converter or whatever) and electrical tape, wirestrippers, and a basic screwdriver set? Do I need speaker wire? If so is there a specific size or brand that's well worth it? The OP talks about getting good wire, but I didn't know if that was more for wiring amps and subwoofers instead of just replacing factory speakers. Any help would be awesome, thanks.
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Oct 9, 2013 05:57
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KettleWL posted:Hey so I'm completely car and stereo and wiring illiterate, but hopefully you guys can help me despite all that. I'm looking to install a new head unit and a new pair of rear deck speakers in my 1994 525i. Between Crutchfield and my own basic investigating I've decided on this Kenwood KDC-152 head unit, and these Sony XS-GT1338F speakers. However I do have a few questions: KettleWL posted:2. I'd like to keep my kicker panel speakers as I really don't feel like loving with the door panel removal right now, and also they're both functioning perfectly fine. Is there a potential issue running my stock speakers to that head unit? KettleWL posted:
You don't need to change the wiring, the factory wires will be fine. You might need new terminals for the new speakers at the rear, but the speakers should come with them. If you use electrical tape anywhere in a stereo install you're doing it wrong. Use insulated crimp connectors for wire connections and zip ties for bundling and organizing the wires.
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Oct 9, 2013 20:38
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So after my last post, I think I'm going to abandon the keep the factory HU and use a sound processor idea and just go with a new HU. I know I'll lose the two uconnect buttons for the phone and voice commands but I think I can live with that. Doing some searching on the Dodge Challenger forums it seems like I can keep the USB port in the center console and use the factory sirius antenna which would be a big deal to me. What I want to do is replace the HU with something good that has NAV (works with apple poo poo too), replace the 4 speakers, get an amp, and get a sub. I think I found the sub I want since it's form fitting to my car and won't eat up trunk space. Other than that, I'm not sure what to get for the rest. I like good sound but I'm not audiophile. I'm going to have to piece meal this whole thing over a year so I'm not on a strict budget.
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Oct 10, 2013 03:01
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Thanks for the help Lloyd, you've saved me $20 and no small headache I'm sure.
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Oct 10, 2013 05:50
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No problem, also learn how to confidently take apart the door panels, because your next step is replacing the front door speakers. They're far more important than the rears, and you'll be blown away by how much better an aftermarket pair sound over factory, even if the factory ones are working okay.
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Oct 10, 2013 17:02
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LloydDobler posted:No problem, also learn how to confidently take apart the door panels, because your next step is replacing the front door speakers. They're far more important than the rears, and you'll be blown away by how much better an aftermarket pair sound over factory, even if the factory ones are working okay. Well it turns out my kickers are actually right in the front past my doors so I can get to them pretty easily, and would like to do so, might actually get to them with this speaker replacement outing. Although on that note I was going to ask if there's a better head unit or speaker set that would be recommended in the sub-$100 range for each. Both the ones I picked out have solid reviews and are marked down from higher prices, but I also don't know how much that is "acceptable for the price" opposed to actually pretty good speakers. I've taken door panels off of a few cars with no problems, but I had heard that the E34 panels are a bit of a bitch. Either way I'll be finding out soon since my passenger side window is coming off track, that's my next project unfortunately.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:22
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LloydDobler posted:No problem, also learn how to confidently take apart the door panels, because your next step is replacing the front door speakers. They're far more important than the rears, and you'll be blown away by how much better an aftermarket pair sound over factory, even if the factory ones are working okay. Is it worth changing out the front door speakers first or waiting until I can change all 4?
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Oct 10, 2013 20:46
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Haggins posted:Is it worth changing out the front door speakers first or waiting until I can change all 4? Front speakers are far more important, the rears are really only there for rear fill, if you regularly have rear passengers, or surround if you're doing A/V. There's a lot of people that run the really quality stuff (with a dedicated amp) up front and run a small set of rears off of the deck amp or remove them entirely.
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Oct 10, 2013 23:33
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Agreed - you don't hear much at all from the rear speakers when you're up front. They're usually decent for midrange fill, but I've never seen a real big difference compared to stock when I replace functional* rear speakers. They should be the last thing on your list (behind head unit, front speakers, amp, subwoofer). * if they're ripped/rattling/blown/whatever, then gently caress it, replace them
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Oct 11, 2013 03:30
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Which reminds me, the PO of my Blazer had a system in it. Still have the Kenwood head unit and the speakers (I think they're celestions? haven't looked in a while), amps and sub are gone though. Thing is, on my truck the front speakers are actually on top of the dashboard, they screw onto the grilles themselves, which then screw into the dashboard. The aftermarket speakers seem to be deeper than stock, though, and it looks like the PO cut to make space on one but didn't bother on the other. Anyway, whether due to the lovely mounting system or being worn out (no idea how old they are) they buzz like a motherfucker; I have to turn the volume offset all the way down and turn the fader to like 8 rear (of 16 max) in order for it to not clip/rattle/whatever the gently caress it's doing. Is there any way to solve this short of cutting holes in the dash and doing custom enclosures, or am I s.o.l. with this setup?
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Oct 11, 2013 04:41
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Nait Sirhc posted:So there is this 01 BMW 330i. It currently has 3 10" MTX Thunder 6000 subs in a sealed box, powered by a weak 450w MTX amp. The wiring gauge looks really small too. quoting this because I think it got passed up by the page break. I found out that the LOC currently in use only had 1.5 channels wired up; I put a PDLC12 in there and it sounds a bit better. I don't think the 10"s will ever sound "deep" enough, what with 3 10s vs 1 12 / sealed vs folded horn etc., so I guess that answers that question.
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Oct 11, 2013 06:51
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Fucknag posted:Which reminds me, the PO of my Blazer had a system in it. Still have the Kenwood head unit and the speakers (I think they're celestions? haven't looked in a while), amps and sub are gone though. Thing is, on my truck the front speakers are actually on top of the dashboard, they screw onto the grilles themselves, which then screw into the dashboard. The aftermarket speakers seem to be deeper than stock, though, and it looks like the PO cut to make space on one but didn't bother on the other. The first step is to find out why they buzz. I'd take them out but leave them wired up and see if there's anything you can do to make it stop. If the grille is what's buzzing, modify it or clamp it down better. If the speakers buzz even sitting in your hand, they're damaged. If the buzzing is something loose in the dash, it should go away when you lift it out and you can get in there and tape it down. Basically solving rattles and buzzing is trial and error. It wouldn't surprise me though if they just got dirt in them and are jacked up, and need to be replaced. For example that is very common on small 2 way speakers mounted flat; there's often a shaft coming through the woofer to hold the tweeter up, which means there's a cylinder that's practically made to trap dirt until it grinds. That's another huge benefit of component speakers, the woofer cone is solid.
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Oct 11, 2013 17:37
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Figure this is the best place to ask this. Have any of you guys used Bluetooth -> 3.5mm adapters? Good/bad? Suggested models? Looking for A2DP streaming only. It'd just be nice not having to plug my phone into the stereo every time I get in the car (and since I do delivery, that could be upwards of 30 times in a single shift), but at the moment, I can't afford to replace the head unit (thanks to needing a $100-150 adapter to keep all of the stock functions  )
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Oct 13, 2013 10:35
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hey my truck radios dead finally. i wanna replace it with something better. The slot is single din and theres four speakers in the cab. i wanna: listen to the good fm station listen to the good am station listen to my tapes listen to my mp3 player use my cb plug in the iphone and have handsfree talkin bc its a manual and i'll get myself killed otherwise. the only thing that seems close to this is that pyle unit everyone says is garbage on amazon. it would be cool to not buy that bc it probably isnt the best handsfree solution in the world and isnt very good also probably. i dont mind cutting holes in the dash or whatever to migrate a rear aux jack up front or something like that. anyone got an idea of how to get those features?
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Oct 15, 2013 02:22
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If you can do without a cassette player (maybe get a portable tape player like a Walkman, or rip your tapes to MP3, or find MP3 versions, etc), there's hundreds of CD players that fit every other requirement except for maybe CB (if your CB has some sort of unamplified output, like for headphones or to go to an amp, you could plug that into the aux input of the stereo). The majority of head units will have the aux jack on the front. There's plenty that also have iOS integration, so you wouldn't have to use the aux jack for the iPhone (or just do that over Bluetooth).
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Oct 15, 2013 02:38
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are there add on cassette players i can bolt under the dash? this is a comanche so theres room for another thing down there. there used to be din size cd players that would hook into the rear input of a factory stereo. if there was something like that i could bolt under the dash and play my tapes with itd be neat. cb shouldnt be an issue it sits after the radio and ducks the audio when theres signal.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:46
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Well..   ]I got all that and WEATHER BAND  Really, though, I have no problem with Pyle. I own a few of their products, and they do just what I expect them to do for the price I paid. If you just want to listen to a few things and don't need Bluetooth, I don't see any reason to poo-poo a lower end system that does what you want. You really should be checking out Crutchfield, though.
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Oct 15, 2013 07:19
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crutchfield carries the pioneer keh-p2030 but that has no aux or usb/phone i may just end up getting something with a spare aux in and running a walkman dd into it. bummer.
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Oct 15, 2013 16:12
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Edit: nm
IAmKale fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 19:47
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some texas redneck posted:Figure this is the best place to ask this. I have this one from Monoprice hooked up in my garage and it works alright - audio quality is good, though it doesn't seem to auto-pair (I've never tried to make it auto-pair, though). It's not really meant for mobile use (it has a USB A port on it for some reason) but Monoprice sells A-A cables that will let it plug into any USB power adapter. Amusingly enough I have said that I would kill for forward/back buttons on it so I didn't have to get my greasy hands on my phone to change songs, and now it looks like they have another one that does.
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Oct 15, 2013 22:29
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Just wanted to post this in here, I'm selling a Rockford P300-1 in SA Mart if any of yall are in the market.
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Oct 15, 2013 22:54
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Maybe someone who knows more about this than me can help. I recently came to purchase a 2005 Honda Accord. The previous owner had what appears to be a 3.5mm audio hardwired into what I'm assuming is an FM transmitter. The cord has shorted out and no longer works and I'm looking to replace the whole unit. My research has turned up that no bluetooth units are compatible with the factory radio, so it looks like I'm in the market for an aftermarket unit with bluetooth audio streaming? Anyone have any suggestions for a decent unit with bluetooth audio streaming, hands-free, and an auxiliary port? I have a Windows Phone, so I don't need iPhone/iPod docks or USB ports. I'm also not a stickler for audio quality. Everything I've seen for this particular model vehicle shows that I'll have to mount the unit in addition to the factory radio, since the factory radio has the A/C controls in it. This might be a bit over my head, but I've got people who could help me get it installed. I just don't even know where to begin looking for the actual unit. If anyone needs more info or pictures, let me know.
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Oct 16, 2013 22:11
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I am in the process of swapping out my Audi A4's stock "Concert" stereo for an Alpine unit I had in my last car. Today I got what I thought was the right harness but was not (I have a rear amplified Bose system, not a rear amplified standard system. apparently.), so I am returning it for a different one. What I am assuming is the radio lead isn't right though, and the adapter supplied didn't want to work with it- any idea on what this connector type is?   The radio input on the back of my "new" stereo looks a little bit like it's for a 3.5mm jack
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Oct 17, 2013 13:07
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larchesdanrew posted:Maybe someone who knows more about this than me can help. I recently came to purchase a 2005 Honda Accord. The previous owner had what appears to be a 3.5mm audio hardwired into what I'm assuming is an FM transmitter. The cord has shorted out and no longer works and I'm looking to replace the whole unit. My research has turned up that no bluetooth units are compatible with the factory radio, so it looks like I'm in the market for an aftermarket unit with bluetooth audio streaming? Metra has a kit with new HVAC controls but it looks dumb and is expensive. I would look at products from iSimple or PAC audio, you can integrate bluetooth or aux in with the factory radio.
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Oct 17, 2013 18:13
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DesperateDan posted:I am in the process of swapping out my Audi A4's stock "Concert" stereo for an Alpine unit I had in my last car. Today I got what I thought was the right harness but was not (I have a rear amplified Bose system, not a rear amplified standard system. apparently.), so I am returning it for a different one. What year and do you have a photo of the back of the stereo and adapter? It might have two antennas, I'd Google around first.
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Oct 17, 2013 18:17
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:What year and do you have a photo of the back of the stereo and adapter? It might have two antennas, I'd Google around first. It's a 2004. I will pop the stock stereo out again in the morning to have another look and get some better pictures, there was another, black cable with a fatter socket that reminded me of a TV aerial cable inside, both were connected to the stock stereo (although the previous owner had decided to unplug the rear speakers for some reason. they seem fine now) but only the fatter one fits my new stereo. EDIT: Found the user manual for the replacement, and I was stupid and thought a screw hole for fixings was an input. The other aerial is a standard ISO aerial- no idea what the pictured socket is yet. DesperateDan fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 20:56
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Metra has a kit with new HVAC controls but it looks dumb and is expensive. I would look at products from iSimple or PAC audio, you can integrate bluetooth or aux in with the factory radio. I decided to go with this Alpine unit. The more I read into adding anything to a 2005 Accord, the more I realized that the process was going to involve a lot. I ended up going down to the local audio store and picking their brains. They confirmed what I've read, that there's very little that can be integrated with the factory radio. The price they quoted me for the Alpine unit, a mounting kit, an XM/Sirius tuner, and labor was only going to be about $40 more than if I bought and installed all the equipment myself. That and they said they'll have it done in an hour and I'll get a year warranty on it all. I figure $40 is worth that.
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Oct 17, 2013 21:18
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DesperateDan posted:I am in the process of swapping out my Audi A4's stock "Concert" stereo for an Alpine unit I had in my last car. Today I got what I thought was the right harness but was not (I have a rear amplified Bose system, not a rear amplified standard system. apparently.), so I am returning it for a different one. Does your car have factory GPS? Looks like that could be the jack for a GPS antenna.
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Oct 19, 2013 01:46
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Could also be a satellite radio antenna, if your stereo has XM/Sirius.
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Oct 19, 2013 03:54
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larchesdanrew posted:The more I read into adding anything to a 2005 Accord, the more I realized that the process was going to involve a lot. How so? The companies I mentioned both have products that will work with any stereo as long as it has a radio antenna. Here are some videos that explain how it would work: http://enfigcarstereo.com/blog/2011/06/03/ipod-iphone-aux-usb-guide-honda-accord-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2/ Now if you're looking for something to play usb drives than an aftermarket head unit would be the only option. Bluetooth A2DP streaming, bluetooth handsfree calling, aux in, and apple product connection can all be done with a factory head unit. I'm a stickler for keeping everything OE looking though, if you don't mind the way it looks then go for it. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 05:09
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 18:39 |
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DesperateDan posted:I am in the process of swapping out my Audi A4's stock "Concert" stereo for an Alpine unit I had in my last car. Today I got what I thought was the right harness but was not (I have a rear amplified Bose system, not a rear amplified standard system. apparently.), so I am returning it for a different one. After some googling I think that is the intermediate frequency line/diversity antenna connector/zf line. Its supposed to let the aerial amp pick whichever antenna has the strongest signal and use it, without that you'll just be using one antenna. Should be fine. Pivit fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 05:12
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