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Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgRjVdJYgrk

GT350 spied; exhaust sounds glorious. :50 and 1:46 sound amazing. :dong:

Tide fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Sep 28, 2013

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Radiohead71
Sep 15, 2007

bowling 4 buttcoins posted:

I replaced my front two speakers with the Infinity Reference 6832cf pair and metra harness adapter. The install is super easy and documented here. Beyond the two fronts it would have been better to have a shaker system to start out with, but someone else here can answer that.

Thank you for the link and reply. Did you notice a big difference just replacing the fronts? I've read in other threads that front speakers alone make a huge difference, even with the stock head-unit and no amp.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001
you will notice a difference when replacing paper cone speakers with better materials.

Devyl
Mar 27, 2005

It slices!

It dices!

It makes Julienne fries!

NovaLion posted:

Seems like I came in here at just the right time to ask about this.

I'm becoming more and more infatuated with the Terminator Cobras. Right around my first year of college a buddy of mine had an '04 Cobra that I thought was the coolest car ever. I'm getting to a point in life where I can spend money comfortably, and I'm looking at getting one for myself. I keep seeing pricepoints around $20k USD, is this average? Would I be better off buying a basic New Edge and putting on kits/etc.?

What's your end goal? If you're looking for something just ridiculously fast, there's a lot of options. If you're stuck on the Terminator, look for low mileage, carfax, go over it with a fine toothed comb, check out the engine/transmission/drivetrain for any mods. Make sure the interior is in good shape and if it's a Mystichrome, check for scratches & swirls in the paint. Getting paint touched up on a Mystichrome is stupid expensive due to the unique paint.

NovaLion
Jun 2, 2013

REMEMBER

Devyl posted:

What's your end goal? If you're looking for something just ridiculously fast, there's a lot of options. If you're stuck on the Terminator, look for low mileage, carfax, go over it with a fine toothed comb, check out the engine/transmission/drivetrain for any mods. Make sure the interior is in good shape and if it's a Mystichrome, check for scratches & swirls in the paint. Getting paint touched up on a Mystichrome is stupid expensive due to the unique paint.

Mystichrome is pretty cool, but I don't plan to keep any original color in the long run. I'd like something fast, but I don't know enough about engines really to dive into something right away. I'm primarily looking at the body style. I like the little differences between the cobra and the rest.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless

NovaLion posted:

Seems like I came in here at just the right time to ask about this.

I'm becoming more and more infatuated with the Terminator Cobras. Right around my first year of college a buddy of mine had an '04 Cobra that I thought was the coolest car ever. I'm getting to a point in life where I can spend money comfortably, and I'm looking at getting one for myself. I keep seeing pricepoints around $20k USD, is this average? Would I be better off buying a basic New Edge and putting on kits/etc.?

Keeping in mind when I say this that I absolutely love the 03/04 Cobra, for the price of a Termi that's in good shape (relatively low miles, not beaten on or mod'd out the ying yang), you can buy an +11 GT with the 5.0L V8. You will have as good as or better performance with a higher upside when you start adding go fast(er) parts.

But if a 03/04 Cobra is really what you want, then by all means go for it.

Devyl
Mar 27, 2005

It slices!

It dices!

It makes Julienne fries!

NovaLion posted:

Mystichrome is pretty cool, but I don't plan to keep any original color in the long run. I'd like something fast, but I don't know enough about engines really to dive into something right away. I'm primarily looking at the body style. I like the little differences between the cobra and the rest.

You can always do a poor man's Cobra. Buy a GT and toss on an FRPP supercharger, beef up the transmission a little bit, and strengthen the rear-end and suspension. You'll have plenty of power and replacement parts will be cheaper. If you shop smart you can do it for half the price of a quality Terminator and have enough left over to have it professionally painted or go the full length and swap in the Cobra interior and body parts like the bumpers and still come out with cash in your pocket.

bowling 4 buttcoins
Mar 13, 2011

Radiohead71 posted:

Thank you for the link and reply. Did you notice a big difference just replacing the fronts? I've read in other threads that front speakers alone make a huge difference, even with the stock head-unit and no amp.

Absolutely huge difference. At the same time I used some additional sound deadening material I had lying around and padded up the door panels to prevent any rattles. The installation is dead simple, and took me about 15 mins for the first door and 5 for the 2nd. I have the stock base system without amplifier or subwoofer, and I don't think it needs them with all the engine noise going on.

There are a few other speakers that have been recommended for drop in, but the Infinity reference speakers are a great deal and I would recommend them over and over again as a *must have*.

oRenj9
Aug 3, 2004

Who loves oRenj soda?!?
College Slice

Tide posted:

Keeping in mind when I say this that I absolutely love the 03/04 Cobra, for the price of a Termi that's in good shape (relatively low miles, not beaten on or mod'd out the ying yang), you can buy an +11 GT with the 5.0L V8. You will have as good as or better performance with a higher upside when you start adding go fast(er) parts.

But if a 03/04 Cobra is really what you want, then by all means go for it.

With 2011 GTs starting to fall into the low 20s, this is really an option to consider. The 2011 is a better all-around car and is capable of mind-blowing performance for not much money. Those FRPP superchargers are $7200, bolt on, 50 state legal, put down 525 HP and can be had with a warranty. And if that's not stupid enough for you, for $300 more you can get an intercooler and more aggressive tune for an additional 100 HP.

That's amazing compared to what FRPP offers for the Terminator. For $4000, you can get an upgraded supercharger that adds around 85HP. Granted, that leaves you with a good chunk of change left over for other parts, but I still think the 2011+ is a better deal.

If I bought a Terminator, I'd buy a stock one and try to leave it that way. The Terminator is probably going to be seen as one of the greatest Mustangs ever made; a singular bright light in an era of darkness.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
The 32V 4.6L V8 thats in the Terminator is significantly different than the 32V 4.6L V8 that was in the '96, '98, '99 and '01 model year Cobras. Iron block instead of aluminum, forged internals (Zolner pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods), and quite of few other changes. Changing out the headers/exhaust, slapping a lightning pulley on it, and a custom tune yielded spectacular results. Also, Ford underrated them (insurance reasons? who knows) as most were putting +390HP to the rears (which indicates more like +430HP to the crank). It's really easy to turn an 03/04 Cobra in even more of a beast than it already is.

Within 300 miles of 36693 zip code, I found less than 10 cars that fit my search criteria (less than 30K miles, V8, manual):
2011 GTs are 23K-28K, assuming you're looking at a couple.
2003/04 Cobras are 28K-30K, again assuming you're looking for a coupe. These had less than 12K miles.
2003 GT 'vert with 29,100 miles was 13K.

Easing up on the mileage would bring alot more cars into play, of course.

To me, it's a no brainer, but I can certainly understand the want of a Terminator. Just be prepared to pay for it.

bowling 4 buttcoins
Mar 13, 2011

Tide posted:

The 32V 4.6L V8 thats in the Terminator is significantly different than the 32V 4.6L V8 that was in the '96, '98, '99 and '01 model year Cobras. Iron block instead of aluminum, forged internals (Zolner pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods), and quite of few other changes. Changing out the headers/exhaust, slapping a lightning pulley on it, and a custom tune yielded spectacular results. Also, Ford underrated them (insurance reasons? who knows) as most were putting +390HP to the rears (which indicates more like +430HP to the crank). It's really easy to turn an 03/04 Cobra in even more of a beast than it already is.

Within 300 miles of 36693 zip code, I found less than 10 cars that fit my search criteria (less than 30K miles, V8, manual):
2011 GTs are 23K-28K, assuming you're looking at a couple.
2003/04 Cobras are 28K-30K, again assuming you're looking for a coupe. These had less than 12K miles.
2003 GT 'vert with 29,100 miles was 13K.

Easing up on the mileage would bring alot more cars into play, of course.

To me, it's a no brainer, but I can certainly understand the want of a Terminator. Just be prepared to pay for it.

And when you get down to it really, the whole cars are not investments :science: comes into play. If you're looking for a time capsule it better be worth buying, otherwise it might be smarter to stick with a Coyote GT or 302 for exclusivity.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
Yeah. If I were in the market for one, I'd find a low mileage GT with the track pack, put a blower on it and call it a day. Coyotes are capable of just stupid amounts of horsepower.

Captain Apollo
Jun 24, 2003

King of the Pilots, CFI
Took my GT in to get the TSB for the lower control arm squeak.


It is 90% better now, but I still hear the squeak in certain conditions. Live with it, or take it back in?

Maybe some aftermarket LCA's from americanmuscle will help out instead? :D

AWWNAW
Dec 30, 2008

bowling 4 buttcoins posted:

I replaced my front two speakers with the Infinity Reference 6832cf pair and metra harness adapter. The install is super easy and documented here. Beyond the two fronts it would have been better to have a shaker system to start out with, but someone else here can answer that.

I ordered these same speakers and harness. I noticed in some of the amazon reviews people were saying the polarity was reversed with this harness. Did you notice this?

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless

Captain Apollo posted:

Took my GT in to get the TSB for the lower control arm squeak.


It is 90% better now, but I still hear the squeak in certain conditions. Live with it, or take it back in?

Maybe some aftermarket LCA's from americanmuscle will help out instead? :D

The justification I used when my GT started squeaking after the LCA fix is that a ~$35,000 car should not have a squeaky suspension at 6,000 miles :colbert: 60,000 miles? I can somewhat understand. But two LCA replacements in less than a year and half and 11,000 miles is beyond ridiculous.

I freely admit to being a service managers worst nightmare because I will bitch and complain and write letters to corporate HQ until I get what I think is right. But goddamn...this shouldn't happen.

AWWNAW
Dec 30, 2008

AWWNAW posted:

I ordered these same speakers and harness. I noticed in some of the amazon reviews people were saying the polarity was reversed with this harness. Did you notice this?

Just installed them and the polarity was definitely reversed.

Number_6
Jul 23, 2006

BAN ALL GAS GUZZLERS

(except for mine)
Pillbug

Tide posted:

The justification I used when my GT started squeaking after the LCA fix is that a ~$35,000 car should not have a squeaky suspension at 6,000 miles :colbert: 60,000 miles? I can somewhat understand. But two LCA replacements in less than a year and half and 11,000 miles is beyond ridiculous.

I freely admit to being a service managers worst nightmare because I will bitch and complain and write letters to corporate HQ until I get what I think is right. But goddamn...this shouldn't happen.

Is there some correlation with this LCA noise issue, and whether or not the car is a manual/Brembo/track pack or some other option? I have an 2011 automatic (so no Brembo) which is almost three years old and my suspension has never made any untoward noise (knock on wood!).

Radiohead71
Sep 15, 2007

I have an 11 GT with Brembo & 6sp manual and have never had any sounds from my suspension.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
No idea. Mine is a '12 GT, manual, no track pack. I think it affects the '12s more the '11s but I could be wrong.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001
Its a Mustang, it squeaks! I have never been in a Mustang that did not have some sort of squeak. in all seriousness, the squeaky suspension means that you do not have a loud enough exhaust. I would look into upgrading to a 2 or 3 chamber muffler or just something free flowing like a magnapack.

Also, are you SURE its the lca? Was the lca actually replaced? or was a replacement bushing put in? are you sure its not something else like a sway bar or other suspension component? It could be something stupid like the springs compressing on a worn isolator?
Perhaps buying better parts instead of using the cheapest stock parts would solve a few issues?

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
My trans recently started clunking through the synchros and I wondered why, first I looked up the gearbox oil change interval. *There's yer problem!* I am about 8k into a 5k interval.

Somebody tell me it's about as simple as: remove drain bolt -> drain -> replace drain bolt -> fill

Also, is there any advantage to using a fancy oil like Redline or Royal Purple, or should I just stick to whatever Ford Motorcraft stuff I get at the dealer?

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001

clutchpuck posted:

My trans recently started clunking through the synchros and I wondered why, first I looked up the gearbox oil change interval. *There's yer problem!* I am about 8k into a 5k interval.

Somebody tell me it's about as simple as: remove drain bolt -> drain -> replace drain bolt -> fill

Also, is there any advantage to using a fancy oil like Redline or Royal Purple, or should I just stick to whatever Ford Motorcraft stuff I get at the dealer?

Gearbox oil should last 20 to 30k, do you mean engine oil? thats good for about 5k. if its gearbox oil, just get whatever ford recommends.
if you want to start going synthetic with everything get royal purple.

PT6A
Jan 5, 2006

Public school teachers are callous dictators who won't lift a finger to stop children from peeing in my plane

clutchpuck posted:

My trans recently started clunking through the synchros and I wondered why, first I looked up the gearbox oil change interval. *There's yer problem!* I am about 8k into a 5k interval.

Please tell me that's miles. If it's kilometers, that's a very lovely interval.

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

kalvick posted:

Gearbox oil should last 20 to 30k, do you mean engine oil? thats good for about 5k. if its gearbox oil, just get whatever ford recommends.
if you want to start going synthetic with everything get royal purple.

There isn't really any good reason to spend the extra money for Royal Purple over say, Mobil 1.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001

MikeyTsi posted:

There isn't really any good reason to spend the extra money for Royal Purple over say, Mobil 1.

Yea, but he was asking for Motorcraft or Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is also acceptable!

bowling 4 buttcoins
Mar 13, 2011

AWWNAW posted:

Just installed them and the polarity was definitely reversed.

There was only one way to plug the speakers/harness in so I didn't notice...

MikeyTsi posted:

There isn't really any good reason to spend the extra money for Royal Purple over say, Mobil 1.

LMR sells the RP/motorcraft kit for ~80. I'd say the Mobil 1 kit is probably just as expensive if not more.

MikeyTsi
Jan 11, 2009

kalvick posted:

Yea, but he was asking for Motorcraft or Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is also acceptable!

No, he was asking if there was any advantage to doing so.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
Looks like it just needed the clutch cable adjusted; pulled the clutch pedal up and it shifts smoother!

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
This is merely just brainstorming for after the winter, but has anyone ever bought a custom gauge for their mustang, specifically from Carribbean Custom Designs? I like the look of the Mach 1/Bullitt gauges, but theyre rare as heck and expensive.





You can customize the style, background color, illumination color and even put your own logos there starting at $75.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001

Cage posted:

You can customize the style, background color, illumination color and even put your own logos there starting at $75.

YEA I have done the swap in my car when I first got it. I would not recommend it.
Once you pull the needles they are impossible to get just right unless you have a tuner. If you dont you can use the on board dash diagnostic to get the rpm needle back in and gas, etc... The speedo is a pain in the rear end, you got to use a GPS or follow someone who is doing 55 so you can plug the needle in at 55. then while you are doing that, you may get finger prints on the gauge sheet and after a while you will see where you touched it as that stuff ages with time.


I would just replace the entire unit, and avoid that headache with something like this... http://www.americanmuscle.com/simco-mustang-gauges-9904gtle.html
This setup is a little bit more classy imo.

bowling 4 buttcoins
Mar 13, 2011
Anyone have any experience with supercharging the coyote here? Would really like a goon opinion on PD vs Centri vs the opposition for what it's worth.


I'd rather not give up my boss intake manifold/air raid intake but if they have to go they have to go.

For your services here is a picture from 100|OCT Fall 100 Miglia.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Im going to be putting my 04 Mustang away in my driveway for the upcoming Buffalo, NY winter. Anyone have suggestions for a good car cover? American muscle has a generic indoor one for $89, and custom fit 99-04 outdoor one for $189. Is there anything better that you guys like? Also, is there "best" winter car storage checklist that you guys know of? Ive read a few, but they all seem to vary a bit.

Cage fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Oct 16, 2013

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

bowling 4 buttcoins posted:

Anyone have any experience with supercharging the coyote here? Would really like a goon opinion on PD vs Centri vs the opposition for what it's worth.


I'd rather not give up my boss intake manifold/air raid intake but if they have to go they have to go.

For your services here is a picture from 100|OCT Fall 100 Miglia.



I supercharged a DOHC mod motor in 2006-2007 with a Paxton Novi 1000. The answer is it depends on your goals. The earlier mod motors aren't torquey motors at all and adding a centrifugal suprercharger meant that at 3800 RPM I got a ton of power and stock drive-ability and gas mileage on the lower end.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





kalvick posted:

YEA I have done the swap in my car when I first got it. I would not recommend it.
Once you pull the needles they are impossible to get just right unless you have a tuner. If you dont you can use the on board dash diagnostic to get the rpm needle back in and gas, etc... The speedo is a pain in the rear end, you got to use a GPS or follow someone who is doing 55 so you can plug the needle in at 55. then while you are doing that, you may get finger prints on the gauge sheet and after a while you will see where you touched it as that stuff ages with time.


I would just replace the entire unit, and avoid that headache with something like this... http://www.americanmuscle.com/simco-mustang-gauges-9904gtle.html
This setup is a little bit more classy imo.

The way the Ranger folks do it (usually, to transplant their odometer into a new cluster) is to hook a AA battery to the gauge motor, note the reading it gives, and remove the needle. Then when putting the needle back on, you hook the battery back up, and install the needle at that same reading.

I didn't want to gently caress with that myself either so I just found a cluster with mileage nearly identical to mine and did the swap when the two odometers were <10mi apart from each other.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless

bowling 4 buttcoins posted:

Anyone have any experience with supercharging the coyote here? Would really like a goon opinion on PD vs Centri vs the opposition for what it's worth.


I'd rather not give up my boss intake manifold/air raid intake but if they have to go they have to go.

For your services here is a picture from 100|OCT Fall 100 Miglia.



Check out http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/. They can help you with a specific set up. Really helpful people. I have heard really good things about their Beefcake Special Vortex and Paxton blowers. I bought the Roush 625 HP PD set up from them.

Which is sitting in a box that's waiting on me to get the time to install it :smith:

Cocoa Crispies
Jul 20, 2001

Vehicular Manslaughter!

Pillbug

Cage posted:

Im going to be putting my 04 Mustang away in my driveway for the upcoming Buffalo, NY winter. Anyone have suggestions for a good car cover? American muscle has a generic indoor one for $89, and custom fit 99-04 outdoor one for $189. Is there anything better that you guys like? Also, is there "best" winter car storage checklist that you guys know of? Ive read a few, but they all seem to vary a bit.

I use a Weathertech Noah on mine, it's not too bad to take on and off, but I have no idea how it would handle winter weather.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001

Cocoa Crispies posted:

I use a Weathertech Noah on mine, it's not too bad to take on and off, but I have no idea how it would handle winter weather.


I used to do the same thing buy a high end car cover, but every other year they start to rip and just become junk.
now I just get a good generic car cover for 60 bucks, store the car under it. and use some bungie cords and clamps around the wheel wells
to stop the wind blowing it off.

Dont run a cable from one side of the cover to the other side to tie it down. the wind will blow and the cable will rub against the rockers and pull paint off.
tie the cover around the tires!!!

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001

bowling 4 buttcoins posted:

Anyone have any experience with supercharging the coyote here? Would really like a goon opinion on PD vs Centri vs the opposition for what it's worth.


I'd rather not give up my boss intake manifold/air raid intake but if they have to go they have to go.



I would not give up your intake either, that is a major character trait for your car! I like a centrifugal in this case just to have the boss intake front and center.

Tide
Mar 27, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
The Boss adapter for the Beefcake specials (Paxton and/or Vortech) is something like 75 bucks. So, if you want that sweet, better breathing Boss intake, go with one of those. The price isn't too bad assuming you just ignore what you can buy with the cost of the supercharger package.

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Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

kalvick posted:

I used to do the same thing buy a high end car cover, but every other year they start to rip and just become junk.
now I just get a good generic car cover for 60 bucks, store the car under it. and use some bungie cords and clamps around the wheel wells
to stop the wind blowing it off.

Dont run a cable from one side of the cover to the other side to tie it down. the wind will blow and the cable will rub against the rockers and pull paint off.
tie the cover around the tires!!!
Do you get a lot of snow? I heard the cheapo ones will trap water, thats what Im mostly worried about.

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