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 I think that's the Fairlane, right? Kind of reminds me of the 10th generation Thunderbirds. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 23:59
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 20:35 |
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some texas redneck posted:
There are similarities with both Thunderbirds and Mustangs. The interior is kind of like a bizarro world Mustang interior. I guess that's part of what the "Sportsman" trim is. The rest is usually the motor from the XR6, high end electronics, weird manual seats, special rims and lowered suspension. This particular one is an oddball because it has the V8 which was sort of made for the Au market for trim levels like the LTD, and then had a really low effort adaption job done to make it work in the engine bay. V8 Sportsmen (Sportsmans?) Weren't really a thing. If the number of them made it in to double digits I'd be surprised. Ford Australia couldn't even tell me after researching. I've asked on the Australian Ford forums and nobody has seen another one. It makes finding parts interesting because it doesn't even exist in most catalogs.
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Oct 10, 2013 00:30
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What year is yours? http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Fairlane-2002/SSE-AD-2364526/?Cr=2&sdmvc=1
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Oct 10, 2013 01:00
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:What year is yours? '96. Someone really loved that one you linked. Pretty much a totally different beast from bumper to bumper. While mine doesn't have trick parts it's pretty much stock and had a shitload of suspension / fuel system / cooling system / engine parts replaced. Especially suspension / steering bits.
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Oct 10, 2013 04:13
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I had a shake at 65, then a shake at 55mph. When it became a shake at 45 I decided to take apart the wheel I suspected. Every nut holding the spindle to the steering knuckle was loose, about 1/4 turn at worst but enough that I could make the spindle move with some effort. Ideally I'll put new lock washers in, when I took it apart one of them was broken, which I replaced. The good news is I'll have a chance to do this soon, because I dropped the outer wheel bearing in the gutter, where it was shake and baked with dirt. I cleaned it so I could install it, but I'm pretty sure it's toast. I haven't driven it yet, but I'd bet that it'll get me to my next destination until the new part arrives in 2 days.
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Oct 10, 2013 14:51
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Full set of Falken ZE914s on my 944 S2. 205/55/16 front, 225/50/16 rear. As I didn't have a locking wheel nut adapter for it, I had to drive 35 miles to the nearest Porsche dealership so they could sort me out. £26 lighter for the adapter, I then paid £315 for the tires. Really happy with them, although I am still breaking them in the ride is smoother.
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Oct 10, 2013 16:07
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Noticed that people behind me would flash their brights and put their hazards on for a couple of cycles, made me suspicious that something was wrong. Sure enough, backing up against a wall showed me that the brake light was out on one side. It was noticeable without the brakes on too, once I knew to look for it. There are two rear light bulbs on each side and one of them does double duty as a brake light, but it's not like you put on the lights and circle around your car everyday, right? So I pulled back the trunk lining and clipped off the bulb holder. Indicator, fog light, reversing light, rear light, brake li... Why is there an empty socket where the brake light should be?  I know the lights had worked not too long ago, as my usual parking space at work is right in front of a window where I can easily see my rear lights. So I poked around a bit more and discovered the bulb rattling around inside the light housing. Removing the housing and shaking it a bit got the bulb out again. When refitted to the socket, it was nice and snug, so I have no idea how it could have rattled loose. Sure, it was the same side that got rear-ended a little while back, but how the hell could that rotate a tight bayonet-fitting bulb loose? And why was it fine until now? Just one of life's little mysteries, I guess. At least I found out that it's ridiculously easy to service the rear lights on a Peugeot 406.
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Oct 11, 2013 15:50
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The radiator came out of the Niva yet again for yet another attempt at stopping the leaks on the top tank. Coolant coming out the grille was not a good look. Got the solder off at the problem areas and found places on the seam that it wasn't bonding with. Lots more cleaning, fluxing etc, then soldering while using unmelted solder wire to kind of swoosh the solder around until it just kind of decides to wick to the metal as it should. Not even going to pretend to understand, but it worked. Decided to look at the bottom tank before I put it back in. Found an old repair and a leak at the end of it. Bit the bullet and took a stab at it fully expecting to be chasing a leak around the seam like up top but it seems to have held. The preexisting repair seemed to have a few pockmarks so I remelted the dodgy looking bit. Lots of bubbling and spitting so it must have had coolant trapped behind it. If it still leaks it's negligible compared to before I think. Haven't seen any leaks yet. I know it still will around the base of the radiator cap fitting because I can't fix that.
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Oct 11, 2013 20:45
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General_Failure posted:The radiator came out of the Niva yet again for yet another attempt at stopping the leaks on the top tank. Coolant coming out the grille was not a good look. How much can a radiator possible cost?! Haven't you been fixing this piece of poo poo radiator for like 3 months?
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Oct 11, 2013 22:22
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At this point modding a more recently made radiator to fit would be more productive.
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Oct 12, 2013 02:27
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Threw a new fuel tank and pump assembly in it for the hell of it, I had a spare one and the other one had a bad check valve and fuel level sender. No idea if this one has a good sender or check valve but it can't be worse than the last one, took an hour and a half, and now all the bolts are broken free/threads cleaned off. It starts and runs so off to the gas station to see if the sender works! For once I remembered to put the spare tank in the trunk before leaving for work AND I timed it so the tank was almost empty to make it easy to drop without help.
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Oct 12, 2013 03:01
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Astonishing Wang posted:How much can a radiator possible cost?! Haven't you been fixing this piece of poo poo radiator for like 3 months? Hard to say. I can't find one. I'm just buying a bit of time. I called my parts supplier and he said they don't stock them because they are pretty much bulletproof so nobody needs one. I may be getting hold of a 1700 radiator but when I'm not sure. It needs some minor mods to fit like relocating the ignition coil, and really the 1600 rad is the superior of the two because of materials and construction, but mine is screwed and in need of a rebuild. I've seen a Commodore radiator that was made to fit but with a lot of concessions. Besides a hose extension, it also involved relocating the horns, shifting radiator mounts, losing access to the hand crank hole and changing the cooling system to a pressurized header system. Plus the extra surface area is pretty useless unless the front panel behind the grille with the horn cutouts is cut out. I don't want to butcher it that much. If it were possible to shop for radiators by dimensions, number of cores deep and hose locations I probably would have already done that and bought something. It's making GBS threads me to tears because the effective range is limited by coolant leaks. This last round went a decent way to stopping them but it's still not 100% and it bugs me. Hopefully it'll do until I get a replacement.
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Oct 12, 2013 04:23
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General_Failure posted:Hard to say. I can't find one. I'm just buying a bit of time. I called my parts supplier and he said they don't stock them because they are pretty much bulletproof so nobody needs one. So now one appears on eBay for $175 + ??? postage from the Ukraine. Bet postage would be a killer. I'd prefer something that doesn't need to pass through so many hands before reaching me. poo poo gets broken or "lost".
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Oct 12, 2013 04:26
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Getting back into doing actual work instead of flipping cars and filling out insurance forms by working on my daily driver '03 Impreza TS. On Sunday night Slung Blade and I carved out some rust from my rockers, wire brushed the fucker furiously and then used Corroseal (McTinkerson's excellent suggestion) to convert the exterior rust. After a week of driving I came back to Fort Slung this afternoon to finish the job. We pulled the drain plugs and used Eastwood interior frame coating to hose down the rockers with delicious (and probably incredibly poisonous) VOC-laden zinc conversion spray. Then I hit it with rubberized asphalt undercoating after masking and cleaning with POR15 marine clean. It would've been nice to have colour matched undercoating but I actually think this looks pretty cool. I think it looks pretty good. There's a few marks where I hosed up masking and the clear coat I sprayed on the edge between the car paint and the undercoat has some runs but I don't think anyone will notice.    If all goes well at the end of the Thanksgiving (  ) weekend I'll also have put my set of '04 STI struts and springs into the car. Subaru implemented the STI struts as an "inverted" strut. Unfortunately they didn't do a very good job of picking the internal seals so a common problem is that the internal grease works its way past the seals and then starts to clunk. The cure is to drill and tap the rear struts for a Zerk fitting and then to do periodic regreases with wheel bearing grease. I completed this work a few weeks ago so it'll be nice to have it pay off.After the car is set up, then it's just up to me to survive the winter doldrums. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 04:40
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Replaced the bearing I dropped in the dirt and threw some new lock washers behind the nuts that I tightened last week. They are much more springy than the old ones. I hope the loosening was a one time occurrence. Since I had one tire off I rotated the rest of them. Since I had a new tube of grease "Red & Tacky #2" I decided to grease as much as I could reach. I love watching it ooze out. I then locked the hubs and drove around to let it all disperse.
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Oct 12, 2013 16:16
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Pulled the heart out.   Forgot to slide the lift arm out from 2T so I scratched the poo poo out of the cylinder body with the A/C pulley.
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Oct 12, 2013 18:04
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What are you doing to it?
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Oct 12, 2013 18:28
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Selling the motor, putting the transmission into my e36 M3 and getting the body hauled off to a scrapyard. Eastern killed it, rust ate through the rockers and floor, plus just about every bodypanel.
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Oct 12, 2013 18:47
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 First time using plasti - dip, turned out really well and I couldn't believe how easy it was. I might do the Nissan emblem but I'm waiting for now. I'm going to be gone for the next little while but when I get back I plan on getting the brushed aluminum grille painted the same grey as the truck and powder coating the rims a nice glossy black. Should look mean when I'm done.
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Oct 13, 2013 02:57
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I've been taking care of a lot of my truck's Old Man Issues lately. Last week I replaced the worn out driver's side window regulator, and one of my O2 sensors which had been causing an occasional CEL for like....three years. This weekend I decided to do the shocks. I'm not sure what the replacement interval is for these, but I can tell you it's something less than 163,000 miles. Replaced with new KYB Monomaxes, which are stiff as gently caress and make potholes feel like being kicked in the taint.  At least they were really easy to remove because I could fully compress them with one hand!  Also decided to clean my upper headlights with a ten dollar turtle wax lens restorer kit on a whim. I didn't think it did much until I reinstalled them and compared to the lowers:  The uppers were a lot closer looking to the lowers than they are now, and night time visibility has been quite noticeably improved. I'm impressed!
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Oct 13, 2013 13:48
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The Niva has been acting a little surly the last couple of days so I set out to check the timing and idle. Timing was fine although I did find some un-sprung slop in the mechanical advance. The idle mixture was worthless as always but things were even weirder than normal. Looks like the secondary butterfly linkage fell off some time in the last couple of days so the secondary butterfly could flap free a bit like it used to when I got it. Put it back on but I doubt it's adjusted right. So long as it stays closed during idle I don't much care right now. I also accidentally found the major source of the current radiator leak. It's just the top hose where the capillary tube goes in under it. I could hear a sucking as the engine was cooling down.
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Oct 13, 2013 23:46
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What did I do to my ride today? Why, I skipped class to adjust my points and reset my timing (by ear)! at 8:00 in the morning! SO EXCITED!! Goddamn it, it may be easy to do but it's a huge pain in the rear end when your engine chooses to crap on your hopes of getting to class on time.
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Oct 14, 2013 22:14
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11BulletCatcher posted:What did I do to my ride today? Why, I skipped class to adjust my points and reset my timing (by ear)! at 8:00 in the morning! SO EXCITED!! Goddamn it, it may be easy to do but it's a huge pain in the rear end when your engine chooses to crap on your hopes of getting to class on time. Aren't you the guy who was frou-frou-ing electronic ignition recently? Going on about how much more authentic it was to have to adjust points?  Petrtonix isn't that expensive....
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Oct 15, 2013 04:07
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Well last night I thrashed it hard on some dirt roads until I snagged a rock wrong or something and tore the muffler off. Just kept going, it'd been hanging low for a while and was beat to hell anyways. Couldn't find it when I doubled back and went looking. So today naturally I went to the junkyard and bought a limited slip for the rear diff, but not a muffler. gently caress it, I'll pick up a cherry bomb and a new tailpipe on rockauto tomorrow or something. Everyone behind me on the pike tomorrow morning is going to hate my rear end and the noises it makes.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:10
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Last couple of days: On the Niva I pretty much stopped all the coolant leaks except for a bit of seeping in one spot that I'm aware of. Redid the idle again. Installed an ancient UHF CB, elevated feed and 1/4 wave whip. Not great but it'll do for now. Replaced the Soviet lighter socket with a standard socket so car accessories will work. On the fairlane I paid its registration, saying bye-bye to money that could have been spent on camping gear and other toys. Hell, I would have been most of the way to a pair of Torsen diffs. That's life.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:29
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I bought these for my winters. They seem to be asking for some plastidip, although i'm not sure which color. Open to suggestions. So far the top 3 choices are yellow + metalizer + clear, blaze orange + clear, or black + clear. Currently in last place is my friends suggestion of blaze pink + metalizer. I have been tempted to try neverwet on top of plastidip. The guy i bought the wheels off was awesome, and another car guy. he gave me mirror glass he had from when he repaired the rear views on his own car. He noticed mine was buggered and ran and threw the good one in for free. 
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Oct 15, 2013 05:21
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Raluek posted:Aren't you the guy who was frou-frou-ing electronic ignition recently? Going on about how much more authentic it was to have to adjust points? Was I? If I was I was an idiot.  Now, my brakes I remember talking about. I mean, hey, it is easier to work on, I just wish the timing wasn't always when I had somewhere important to be.
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Oct 15, 2013 06:56
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11BulletCatcher posted:Was I? If I was I was an idiot. Ah, I guess I over-inferred when you said "For me driving an old car is about driving it as it was meant to be driven at time of manufacture. I'm complaining objectively. I drive superbly with what's in place" about your brakes that you were applying it to other things too. Carry on then!
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Oct 15, 2013 07:22
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Raluek posted:Ah, I guess I over-inferred when you said "For me driving an old car is about driving it as it was meant to be driven at time of manufacture. I'm complaining objectively. I drive superbly with what's in place" about your brakes that you were applying it to other things too. Carry on then! Ha! Not saying you're wrong, I'm just sayin my memory is that bad haha. That, and I was also 5 glasses into 3 liters of Sweet Red. I dunno, call it a love hate relationship. The inefficiencies suck, and hard at that, but once I've done whatever needs to be done, I feel like I've learned something. Plus it's like reliving history to me, even just complaining about the same stuff people did then even though I'm actively choosing to drive with it all. It's kinda hard to really get across my feelings on it, but I guess I like taking the bad with the good in regards to my car, and I'm just angry at the fact that I don't have unlimited funds to fix everything within a month, just the remnants of my GI Bill and my own ingenuity/boredom. So.... anyone wanna lend me $20,000? 
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Oct 15, 2013 18:42
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I got bored and measured some stuff on the lincoln out of curiosity. The doors are 60 inches long(5 god drat feet long), and when open the edge is 54 inches away from the car, meaning with both doors open, it's 188 inches wide, or about as wide as a mercedes E-class sedan is long. In the mall parking lot here, parked dead on the line between 2 parking spots, the open doors were over the yellow lines on each side. The hood is 68 inches long and 64 inches wide, so if stood on end you could hide an entire smart car behind it.
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Oct 16, 2013 03:07
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General_Failure posted:Timing was fine although I did find some un-sprung slop in the mechanical advance. God I always wish I knew more about cars whenever I read this forum. Are you just making up words? That's exactly what it sounds like to a layman.
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Oct 16, 2013 03:18
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Welcome to carburetors. I've tuned them before and they are still a mystery to me
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Oct 16, 2013 03:47
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Carbs operate on Voodoo and unicorn farts. But the funny part is you will never find a more polar opposite people in cars is when it comes to carburetors vs fuel injection. Its still quite the debate as to who's more efficient, who can put more power out, tuning, etc.
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Oct 16, 2013 05:51
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Replaced my bald-as-gently caress rear tires. Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs. Great tires. Going from bald to fresh tires feels sooo good.
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Oct 16, 2013 06:23
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Carbs operate on Voodoo and unicorn farts. There's a huge debate, but there's no real argument in favor of carbs other than "I grew up with them and understand them better". Both carbs and EFI systems have had some horrendously crappy implementations on various engines. Disregarding those and looking only at the decently-engineered stuff, EFI is vastly superior, especially with direct injection. But even without DI you can make more power with EFI, it automatically compensates for altitude, it's a lot more reliable, emissions are much lower, fuel milage is higher. You can even change between different tuning profiles for higher/lower-octane gas at the push of a button. Everything carbs can do, EFI can do better. The only advantages to carbs are that they look "old school" and in some cases you can fix them with a hammer and a rubber band. gently caress carbs. gently caress them forever. I love the apparent simplicity of them, relying on nothing but the laws of physics to feed your engine, but in reality they're complicated pieces of poo poo that wear out and are needlessly finicky.
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Oct 16, 2013 09:45
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KozmoNaut posted:There's a huge debate, but there's no real argument in favor of carbs other than "I grew up with them and understand them better". I usually ask the carb diehards where all the 300HP V6s are that have a carb on them.
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Oct 16, 2013 14:06
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Made a 200 mile* round trip to get it some secondhand alloy wheels with near new tires*. $75* for the set. The lacquer on the machined bits has yellowed and crazed, but I can clean it off with cutting compound easily enough. *Converted from Aussie to 'Murrcan.
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Oct 16, 2013 14:31
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They look super close to RPF1s. Sounds good though!
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Oct 16, 2013 14:42
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KozmoNaut posted:gently caress carbs. gently caress them forever. I love the apparent simplicity of them, relying on nothing but the laws of physics to feed your engine, but in reality they're complicated pieces of poo poo that wear out and are needlessly finicky. Mighty Horse posted:I usually ask the carb diehards where all the 300HP V6s are that have a carb on them. This is exactly what I was talking about. But lets look at this too, 300HP V6's just recently became a reality (in mass production cars for every day drivers - lets not include the specialty cars, performance rides, etc)
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Oct 16, 2013 17:55
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 20:35 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:This is exactly what I was talking about. But there is no serious debate? The numbers back it up, EFI is king.
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Oct 16, 2013 18:40
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