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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

Vanagoon posted:

As the Vanagon Goon, I have to say "that happens". It's air cooled (no lower rad grille) so it's not the miserable wasserboxer blowing up.

I've done that exact traffic blocking thing with the blue 84 that I had, except it was Highway 51 in Millington, and on Union Ave in Memphis.

Regarding the subject of Fire - on a van there's a little plastic fuel coupler that is held to the firewall with bolts and is terrible to break and puke fuel all over the engine resulting in your van burning down.


This plastic piece of garbage couples the fuel lines in the engine compartment to the line leading up to the tank. When the hose busts off the end of it it's angled to shoot pressurized fuel right at the exhaust. This one piece has resulted in more fires than anything else.

You can see this thing in the photo on the wasserboxer wiki page
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasserboxer

Definitely preferred the grommeted hole that the fuel hose passed through in the bays, although it was in a prick of a spot on the type 4 engines.

I had the outlet end fitting work of the fuel pump work loose and escape on my bay. It was just pumping fuel all over one of the heat exchanges. I smelled a strong fuel smell, pulled over and killed the engine. It nicely cleaned half the engine and somehow didn't catch fire. I bashed it back in with a shifting spanner and twisted it so it jammed. Got me home. ...and everywhere else because I forgot about it for maybe 4-5 years when I saw fuel dripping from it. Whoops.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

KozmoNaut posted:

Mine's green, corded, cost $35 and has taken everything I've thrown at it so far.

It's probably all plastic gears inside, so it will break someday, I guess. Though from the nose it makes, it does sound like metal gears, so I dunno.

For what it's worth, from the current crop of tools I sell at Home Depot (work P/T for beer money for about a year now), Bosch is the best. That's not saying much, because the competition is Ryobi (consumer garbage), Ridgid (getting better, but still have to rely on that lifetime service agreement they come with quite a bunch), Milwaukee (kinda okay), Makita (good, but ouch my wallet), and DeWalt (how the mighty have fallen). If I were allowed to pick up a "complete set" of tools from the department, no questions asked, I'd get the entire Bosch lineup. If I had to buy it myself, though, I'd get the Ridgid, because even the batteries are replaced for free when they crap out for life. DeWalt used to be the go-to, but I'd only continue to use them now if it were like my father's workplace where they supply the batteries for him, as DeWalt tools tend to eat lithium batteries for whatever reason. Maybe the emergency cutoff is set too low or something (lithium batteries can never be fully discharged or they're damaged permanently, which is why good lithium-powered tools cut out quickly once they reach a certain voltage instead of trickling off like NiCd batteries did). DeWalt also has a bad habit of calling their tools "20V MAX" to make them seem better than the other "18v" lithium tools, but even the box states that 20v is just nominal resting voltage and the tools themselves are 18v under use, like EVERY OTHER COMPANY. lovely marketing from a previously highly-regarded company is almost always a last-ditch effort to grab back some market share when competition starts rolling in and you're too lazy to actually try to compete legitimately.


Ryobi, Ridgid, and Milwaukee are all owned by TTI, and there is a poo poo-ton of parts-binning between them. All of the corded hammer drills between them share the same casings with different coloring, the battery gauges are shared between all of the 12v tools and the Ryobi and Ridgid 18v tools, and all of the borescope cameras are identical in specs except for the color and sometimes the shape of the plastic casing. Seriously, a Ridgid tool is just a Ryobi tool with about an inch of extra rubber bumpers on the outside. Even the heads on the oscillating multi-tools are interchangeable.





(it's difficult to tell because of the angles, but the rear handle halves of all three tools are identical except for amount of rubber, and the fronts are simply lobbed off and replaced with metal casings of varying thickness the higher in price you go, Ryobi -> Ridgid -> Milwaukee. In-store it is painfully obvious and I get asked just about daily)

Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Oct 19, 2013

murphle
Mar 4, 2004

Geirskogul posted:






(it's difficult to tell because of the angles, but the rear handle halves of all three tools are identical except for amount of rubber, and the fronts are simply lobbed off and replaced with metal casings of varying thickness the higher in price you go, Ryobi -> Ridgid -> Milwaukee. In-store it is painfully obvious and I get asked just about daily)

But what's your point here? Are you arguing that the rear handle halves are what fails on all of these drills, and we're dumb for spending more money on the expensive Milwaukee? Or is it the situation that there really is an appreciable difference in the portions that matter, like the gear train and hammer actuators, and nobody should give a poo poo if the trigger is the same piece of plastic on all 3? Because I'm kind of leaning that direction.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
That was just a quick example. Inside all three drills, there is almost no difference. The Milwaukee has a metal internal gear casing (not the metal nose I pointed out in the original post) compared to the plastic on the other two, but the internal gears are identical. Perhaps the metal casing inside makes a difference, but I was just showing the laziness done between the three. It is a superficial example, but maybe I should have pointed out how the similarities go deeper than that. Even the mode selector switch inside is the same, with different plastic armatures going to the three different types of buttons on the front of the tools. On that particular tool (1/2" hammer drill), the motors are also identical and there's no reason to get the $130 Milwaukee over the $60 Ryobi if the metal nose shroud doesn't matter to you (and Ryobi, as a rule, are crap). So yes, in that case you're dumb for buying the more expensive Milwaukee (I have never seen a cracked gear casing in this particular drill, so there's not much reason to pay more than twice as much).

People get on GM all the time here in AI for parts binning their interiors and even engines, so I thought you guys would appreciate massive parts binning in another aspect, because we were talking about power tools.

TATPants
Mar 28, 2011
DeWalt is great stuff. I've been to their R&D location and they seem to know what the difference is between consumer level products (Black and Decker) and professional products (DeWalt). They have rooms dedicated to testing the motors that drive their various tools in normal and harsh conditions.

Battery life is a good metric for consumer-grade power tools, but should not really be considered for pro grade tools IMHO.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Personally, I'd get Makita if it's something that needs to last a long time. My dad has a couple of cordless drills that he's been using for 25 years now, you can still get new batteries for them, and they just keep on trucking.

Or Würth or Berner, I guess if you can get them in the US. The Würth hammer drill is a mean machine that'll go through anything. It uses those locking type drill bits and weighs a ton.

Cheap tools are great, right until the moment they break when you need them the most.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Farking Bastage posted:

Their dishwashers are decent :)

Ours tried to burn the house down several years ago. When it was repaired, I discovered quite some time later that touching it while touching the sink resulted in a nice zap. Found out someone didn't hook the ground back up, and the neutral was bare (wire nut fell off) and touching the chassis. Nice scorch marks on the wiring.

I will say it's drat quiet though - I've opened it more times I can count without realizing it was running, in a completely silent house.

And I gave up fixing our Bosch double wall oven - it still "works", but the top oven takes a good 40-45 minutes to heat up and convection hasn't worked in several years. It has a serious appetite for (loving expensive) heating elements, and the VFD display is barely usable now.

I can give the VFD a pass, it's about 10 years old. But the KitchenAid it replaced never gave us any problems.. it was just deemed "too ugly". :downs:

I also learned the hard way that Hondas (at least 80s and 90s) absolutely loving hate Bosch O2 sensors - I always stuck with Denso or NTK after that. I was a bit surprised to find a Bosch O2 sensor (with both a Bosch and Nissan logo) on my Altima though (it still got a NTK sensor, more because it's what I had ordered - didn't see the Bosch logo until I removed the original).

Seat Safety Switch posted:

I've never had a problem with Bosch sensors (barring swap-meet CIS-E poo poo) or fuel pumps. I really like their wiper blades too.

NGK plugs are all I run though. I'm only dimly aware that other brands even exist. The best part about NGKs is buying them for an old Japanese car, getting NOS left over at the warehouse and thus having the retro 70s packaging on some of them. :3:

For plugs, I always use either NGK or whatever the OEM is. Every vehicle I've owned, except for the Saturn, and my F-150, used NGK for the OEM plug. The Saturn just got a set of NGKs to replace the 8 year old AC Delco plugs.

The one set of Bosch blades I bought only lasted a few months before they started chattering. :mad: I may give them another shot though, my lovely Valucraft blades are also chattering unless I'm in a hurricane.

That Genuine Stank
Apr 25, 2004
I suppose I will post pictures when I get it out tomorrow, but I had my first major malfunction on a car that I owned after owning various cars for over a dozen years. I guess I have been pretty lucky up to this point.

What happened was the turbo on my GTI went out in a big cloud of smoke. Thankfully it was only a few hundred feet away from my house, but I still stopped it and turned off the engine as soon as I saw the smoke. I figure it can't be so bad, the oil light didn't go on and the dipstick actually had a little oil on the end of it :shobon: I got most of the way through removing it today and I have a replacement ready to go, I just forgot to buy a couple of gaskets, o rings and other items that are intended to be replaced whenever the turbo is replaced.

Funny enough, I got both the haynes and bentley books, but I couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble removing the coolant return line and the oil feed line. I somehow missed the part were the haynes manual stuck the equivalent of, "oh yeah, remove the intake duct, good luck with that!" The bentley manual gives the reader far too much credit on some things. The turbo section just has blow up diagrams with call outs for the various parts, their torque numbers and if they need to be replaced.

I always thought I wanted a project car, but it wasn't supposed to be my DD. At least there is the miata…

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

that "Where the gently caress did the boost go?" BAAANG! *Cloud of smoke* progression is certainly one of those blood chilling moments. Did your turbo spit parts of itself through the intake system?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Geirskogul, I've had the opposite experience... I haven't had to warranty anything ridgid yet but both ryobi and ryobi seem like pricks about it if things aren't registered. And how the hell are you supposed to register a gift that you don't have a receipt for?

Ryobi straight up told me to get hosed when I tried to warranty my less than a year old batteries that crapped out. Ohhhh boohoo I didn't register them because no one told me I should. gently caress you too ryobi.

I was going to try a swap on them but figured serial numbers would give it away (they should have also proven well enough that they were made in the last 3 years and thus purchased in the last 3 years, but I digress), so I am ordering a stack of 6 volt lead acid gelcells for half the cost of a small lithium pack (I had nicads go bad on me) and making it so my angle grinder runs for approximately 19 years on a charge. And never buying ryobi again because gently caress you ryobi, treat me lovely like that and I will take my several hundred dollars a year in power tool purchases elsewhere and tell all my friends to buy someone else's poo poo too, thank you very much.

I probably should take this to twitter or something too since that seems like the thing to do these days.

Also, looking at my ridgid x4 batteries, they are very different from ryobi one+, not sure which ridgid/ryobi 18v kit you are comparing though.

E: order submitted for 65 bucks in lead acids, so more like half the price of the large one+ lithiums, but that is for 12 amp hours of unstoppable junkyard angle grindey goodness so I am fine with it.

kastein fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Oct 19, 2013

IPCRESS
May 27, 2012

some texas redneck posted:

The one set of Bosch blades I bought only lasted a few months before they started chattering. :mad: I may give them another shot though, my lovely Valucraft blades are also chattering unless I'm in a hurricane.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHTjwpC44zo

You're welcome. No responsibility taken for busted wiper arms.

Also, on battery packs: For consumer level stuff (and maybe professional, too, I've not checked) the battery pack contains standard sized C- or D- cells with solder tabs.

You can save a reasonable amount of money on replacing the cells by going to Jaycar (or the US equivalent thereof) and buying new cells, then spending ~15 minutes with a screwdriver and a soldering iron replacing the cells.

Note that I've never had a Lithium Ion/Lithium Polymer battery pack apart (since all my NiMH tools still work) so if you set fire to yourself opening one, be sure to post videos.

IPCRESS fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Oct 19, 2013

That Genuine Stank
Apr 25, 2004

Ferremit posted:

that "Where the gently caress did the boost go?" BAAANG! *Cloud of smoke* progression is certainly one of those blood chilling moments. Did your turbo spit parts of itself through the intake system?

No, actually it was pretty quiet, it had been making a quiet whine for a little while and it got slightly louder, then all I could see behind me was smoke. The only reason I knew it was the turbo was because it smelled like burning oil and the only thing that was leaking oil was the exhaust. When I took it apart, there was quite a bit of oil after the turbo outlet and right before the intercooler. There was probably some in the intercooler as well, but the pipe that goes to the intake from it points pretty much straight up. Not much came out of the part of the exhaust that I removed to get the turbo out, but I think it might be a good idea to get the resonator and muffler out to see if I can't dump some oil out of them so I can hopefully shorten the amount of miles it will be smoking post repair.

The bentley manual says that the oil feed is probably coked up and can be cleaned with solvent. Any idea what solvent it is they are talking about?

One thing I learned about my car that wasn't repair related is that it has a drive by wire throttle system!

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

stizu posted:

The bentley manual says that the oil feed is probably coked up and can be cleaned with solvent. Any idea what solvent it is they are talking about?

Petrol!

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug

Diesel fuel additives will chew out carbon and coke buildup as well.

That Genuine Stank
Apr 25, 2004
Awesome! I can definitely do that.

By the by, I think I located the problem. I had noticed a little oil on the bottom of the engine before this happened but didn't see it coming from the engine. So I was trying to figure out how to get a hex key into the union bolt for the oil feed line and when I pushed on the bolt, it felt loose! When I pushed it some more, it started to turn! Aaaaaargh. This was just pressing on it with one finger, not between two fingers. I bet the coolant lines were put on with the same care.

I am definitely glad I got the bentley book as it has all the torque specs, I don't think the haynes does, or at least they aren't in a convenient location.

That Genuine Stank fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Oct 19, 2013

Carteret
Nov 10, 2012


Bentley makes a superior manual... the only problem is that they are written for Technicians, not DIY'ers. They give the reader a lot of credit because they assume the reader is factory trained.

That Genuine Stank
Apr 25, 2004
Welp, I was wrong



In case it isn't clear, the bolt was the culprit.

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug

stizu posted:

Welp, I was wrong



In case it isn't clear, the bolt was the culprit.

:stare: Where did the bolt come from.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

On my Audi A4 the nut holding the compressor wheel came off and did the same exact thing. Luckily the intercooler stopped most of the debris from going into the engine.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

CommieGIR posted:

Diesel fuel additives will chew out carbon and coke buildup as well.

Diesel makes a good cleaner but the smell is hell to get off things. I have a small jerrycan for just that purpose.

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug

General_Failure posted:

Diesel makes a good cleaner but the smell is hell to get off things. I have a small jerrycan for just that purpose.

Diesel fuel is good, even better is Diesel Kleen. It chews out carbon like nobodies business.

That Genuine Stank
Apr 25, 2004

CommieGIR posted:

:stare: Where did the bolt come from.

Since I have found various tools have fallen out while I have been trying to repair this damage, I am guessing the previous owner suffers from a severe lack of curiosity. He was probably holding a bolt, dropped it and forgot about it. Seriously, since it didn't come from the turbo itself, the impeller nut was not in shot, it had to have come from the outside and the next thing in the line is the MAF sensor.

I can't believe it didn't make more noise! I suppose it was just grinding away little by little since it's basically aluminum grit that found after cleaning everything out.

Shout out to Discount Import Parts in Milwaukie Oregon, they had the turbo and mounting kit in a few hours after I called. Also, it was half what the dealership wanted for just the turbo, which was nice.

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

SERIOUSLY, wash your intercooler out with kerosine or petrol or something then blast it from the outlet thru the inlet with lots of compressed air- That alloy grit had to go somewhere and the intercooler makes a great filter for it, but you dont want it to go further!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Agreed. Wash that poo poo out, it may not cause harm to the engine but why risk it?

Also, I need to get like 20 gallons of diesel so I can just put parts in it to soak, I have tons of really nasty grimy parts that need a good soaking before I can think about cleaning them off the rest of the way.

Currently I soak them in gasoline, then for anything that matters (needs to be painted, loctited, etc) I clean the gasoline residue off with acetone. Best of both worlds, the gasoline cuts through grime and grease amazingly and the acetone removes the gas residue, but I suspect diesel will probably clean better than gas.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

kastein posted:

I suspect diesel will probably clean better than gas.

It does and biodiesel works even better than dino.

That Genuine Stank
Apr 25, 2004

Ferremit posted:

SERIOUSLY, wash your intercooler out with kerosine or petrol or something then blast it from the outlet thru the inlet with lots of compressed air- That alloy grit had to go somewhere and the intercooler makes a great filter for it, but you dont want it to go further!

I did wash it out, but I think that I will do it again because I don't want to turn this into a long block replacement. I hadn't thought of blow drying it with a compressor though.

I am pretty excited to drive it again because other than the turbo death whine and a little exhaust burble, the cabin is pretty quiet, which is a nice change from the miata.


Any suggestions on how to get massive amounts of oil out of clothing? Preferably methods that don't include industrial solvents. It doesn't need to come clean, just smell less like burnt oil.

That Genuine Stank fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Oct 20, 2013

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Citrus based soaps/solvents typically work best, but I found that the most effective method was large quantities of acetone and my apartment building's washing machines :v:

It was a lovely dive of an apartment building and 25% of the washers were constantly broken anyways, so I didn't really feel bad at all about subjecting them to that if it meant they ended up having to replace them. When I buy a new washer for my house I'll probably keep the old beat up $100 craigslist one I have now as an oil/solvent soaked clothes washing machine actually, since my laundry ends up around 50/50 respectable clothes and greasemonkey wearable rags.

PeaceFrog
Jul 27, 2004
you'll shoot your eye out.
Rub some gojo on the stains before washing. Ok results, and you probably have it on hand.
I use a bar soap called Fels Naptha on my stuff. Buck a bar at Walmart and it scrubs out anything. For extra grit I sometimes use borax or washing soda. The three combined is what people use to make laundry soap.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

When I regularly go swimming in the press cambox and ruin my work clothes I dump them in a bucket with some laundry detergent and hot water, get in there with rubber gloves for a solid 5 minutes then leave it to soak for an hour. Wring them out, dunk then in the washer and they come out good enough.

HMF: went to pick the wife's new car up, salesman went to bring it round to us, comes walking round the corner looking sheepish 5 minutes later. Front left coil spring broke. Everything looked okay when I checked it out on Monday, we sold the Volvo yesterday morning in anticipation of picking this thing up so we're kind of committed. I said I still wanted it after they replace the spring and inspect the others so they're delivering it Monday.

Wife is pissed she has no car until Monday. A bloo bloo bloo.

AzureSkys
Apr 27, 2003

General_Failure posted:

Diesel makes a good cleaner but the smell is hell to get off things. I have a small jerrycan for just that purpose.

Isn't Naptha pretty similar to Diesel (well, kerosene, I guess)? It's great for cleaning stuff, but maybe not as convenient as having diesel on hand.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Isn't naptha lighter fluid? Not something I'd buy by the gallon though. We do use kerosene based oils to wash steel before it's pressed though.

AzureSkys
Apr 27, 2003

A retired huge dairy farm guy I helped build a home-built airplane pretty much used it exclusively to clean everything we were working on. He had a quart container similar to this.

I've seen the same thing in some other mechanics garages I know and vaguely remember something about it being good for oil related things and similar to kerosene. But my memories are a sort of (bio)mechanical failure so maybe I'm way off.

Snowdens Secret
Dec 29, 2008
Someone got you a obnoxiously racist av.

kastein posted:

E: order submitted for 65 bucks in lead acids, so more like half the price of the large one+ lithiums, but that is for 12 amp hours of unstoppable junkyard angle grindey goodness so I am fine with it.

Now imagining kastein wandering the junkyards with some Fallout-looking plasma cutter

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NoWake posted:

The organizers were pretty pissed and called a fire truck to the campground, although honestly there's not much you can do besides watch it burn (behind sunglasses) and keep people away.

You use a class D extinguisher (expensive) or bury it (cheap). Problem solved.

We have to do this pretty routinely. Many wheels are mag, and surprisingly enough some (all?) BMW convertible top pieces are mag.

It's pretty annoying, because car fires aren't supposed to be any real work, just douse and leave. Not so much when mag gets going.

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug


Not so much a fail, but led me on a chase to find an issue that I thought was a bad valve spring....

CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Oct 20, 2013

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

CommieGIR posted:



Not so much a fail, but led me on a chase to find an issue that I thought was a bad valve spring....

Where was it?

CommieGIR
Aug 22, 2006

The blue glow is a feature, not a bug


Pillbug

Fart Pipe posted:

Where was it?

There is a shield on the lower half of the engine that covers the flywheel, I was pulling it to drop the oil pan, and as soon as I dropped it away, this dropped out from behind it.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

CommieGIR posted:

There is a shield on the lower half of the engine that covers the flywheel, I was pulling it to drop the oil pan, and as soon as I dropped it away, this dropped out from behind it.

Called that poo poo!

Mooseykins
Aug 9, 2013

Triangle tits and an annoying sex voice?

Fuuuuck youuuuu sluuuut!

Cakefool posted:

Isn't naptha lighter fluid? Not something I'd buy by the gallon though. We do use kerosene based oils to wash steel before it's pressed though.

I think Naptha is the main ingredient in brake cleaner. I think..

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Space Gopher
Jul 31, 2006

BLITHERING IDIOT AND HARDCORE DURIAN APOLOGIST. LET ME TELL YOU WHY THIS SHIT DON'T STINK EVEN THOUGH WE ALL KNOW IT DOES BECAUSE I'M SUPER CULTURED.

Mooseykins posted:

I think Naptha is the main ingredient in brake cleaner. I think..

Tetrachloroethylene (also used as a dry-cleaning solvent) is the main ingredient in most chlorinated brake cleaner. Don't get it hot, because it'll decompose into WWI-era chemical warfare agents. The non-chlorinated stuff is usually a mix of fun and only mildly neurotoxic solvents like acetone and toluene. Any can of brake cleaner you grab off the shelf is likely to be quite a bit more aggressive than naptha.

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