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richyp posted:In the 40k thread I mentioned creating a very basic central blog that aggregates various blogs from fellow goons/friends of goons etc... into one place. If I can get some interest in this and some RSS feeds then once its hosted we can have it up and running pretty quickly. I'm in. I started a babby's-first painting blog yesterday
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Oct 31, 2013 15:18
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richyp posted:- If you don't then why not be a poster on the central blog I don't have the time to make a full-on blog, but I would love to participate in this project. 
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Oct 31, 2013 15:22
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richyp posted:In the 40k thread I mentioned creating a very basic central blog that aggregates various blogs from fellow goons/friends of goons etc... into one place. If I can get some interest in this and some RSS feeds then once its hosted we can have it up and running pretty quickly. I have a hosting account with unlimited domains, storage, and bandwidth, if you guys need it let me know, more than willing to hook you up. Id also be interested in posting things occasionally, pretty busy with work but may get some stuff up some times.
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Oct 31, 2013 15:30
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Cool, we've got like half a dozen folks ready to go, plus hopefully those of you that have blogs already are happy to join in. Start throwing out some names, then! We can get a domain and be up and running pretty quick, really. Goon Painters MiniGoons richyp - I'll drop you a PM!
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Oct 31, 2013 15:37
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I would but every past effort to keep a blog up and running has failed miserably, I have so little time to gently caress around with it any more plus I spend all day buried in web poo poo as it is, don't want to deal with the same nonsense when I get home too if I can help it. I'll watch with eager eyes though, maybe it'll be the inspiration I need to finally go and get writing and finish off working on my dead blog again.
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Oct 31, 2013 16:58
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Count one more for "I'd like to participate but I don't believe I'd be able to make a full contribution"
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Oct 31, 2013 17:06
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enri posted:I would but every past effort to keep a blog up and running has failed miserably, I have so little time to gently caress around with it any more plus I spend all day buried in web poo poo as it is, don't want to deal with the same nonsense when I get home too if I can help it. That's not the enri I remember  You could always be a contributor to the central blog, no need for full on commitment that way. Name wise: I'm quite parital to either: https://www.adeptusartists.com (limits the gaming aspect a bit though) https://www.wargoons.com (all wargames inclusive, might upset a few military types though and might be limiting for non-goon contributions) https://www.goonhammer.com (similar to the above) EDIT: To Keep track Existing Blogs interesting in being aggregated: - Hixson - Richyp - Krushgroove - Baruch Obamawitz (or Contributor) - Polyfractal Potential Contributors to actual blog: - Krushgroove - Richyp - PierreTheMime - LumberingTroll (Thanks for the offer of hosting dude) - SignalNoise - Enri (You know you will, when the site starts lacking scenery tutorials) - Serious Gaylord - Vondizimo (maybe?) richyp fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Oct 31, 2013 |
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Oct 31, 2013 17:07
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https://www.adeptuspergicus.com goonhammer is pretty neat though
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Oct 31, 2013 17:51
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richyp posted:That's not the enri I remember I'm not sure what I'd contribute, maybe some of my retro marine stuff.
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Oct 31, 2013 17:54
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Crossposting from the Oath Thread (which I never remember to do). Here's a bunch of minis from (primarily) the Descent-esque board game Mice & Mystics:  From left to right, that's: (6) Rats, (1) Spider, (6) Mouse Heroes, (8) Cockroaches, (1) Malifaux Mobile Toolkit, and (1) Centipede. Here's just the PC miniatures and their respective character cards:  A not-very nice rat, showcasing this month's theme:  And a robot.  Link to the full album: http://imgur.com/a/31vWh/all (Now featuring more, huger, table-breaking pics!)
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Oct 31, 2013 18:16
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I like this one. First attempt at a color scheme for my new Tyranids. Just a lowly termigant, but I tried my best so that I could see what bigger models would look like. Still working out paint consistency kinks - discovered that my wet palette dilutes paint over time. Obvious in retrospect, but caught me by surprise. All in all, fairly happy with how it turned out especially since I haven't painted anything in nearly a decade. Really don't like the light-blue blobs on the carapace though... they look like poo poo in my opinion. Not enough space to work and I rushed it. Oh well. Not entirely sure I want to paint an entire army with white as the main color...that may just be setting myself up for pain, misery and regret.   (Mould lines? Who cleans those anyway?)  
polyfractal fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 31, 2013 |
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Oct 31, 2013 19:06
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That looks great.
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Oct 31, 2013 19:08
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Yeah, that is a really dope scheme.
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Oct 31, 2013 19:23
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polyfractal posted:Not entirely sure I want to paint an entire army with white as the main color...that may just be setting myself up for pain, misery and regret. Looks great. It might be worth getting hold of some grey primer for those guys, to save you some time painting the white and painting black over it wont be as much of a pain as painting it over white primer.
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Oct 31, 2013 19:41
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I think the uhh...vents, exposed muscles? The things on the limbs, whatever they are. I think those should be in a different color. The blue on the carapace would work well I think. Other than that it's a cool scheme.
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Oct 31, 2013 20:19
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Thanks everyone!richyp posted:Looks great. It might be worth getting hold of some grey primer for those guys, to save you some time painting the white and painting black over it wont be as much of a pain as painting it over white primer. Fyrbrand posted:I think the uhh...vents, exposed muscles? The things on the limbs, whatever they are. I think those should be in a different color. The blue on the carapace would work well I think. Other than that it's a cool scheme. (I have no idea what those things are either)
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Oct 31, 2013 20:46
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polyfractal posted:I actually used grey primer...but then basecoated with more grey. Can I skip the basecoat and instead wash the primer directly, then start layering? Do people do that? Or do they always basecoat even when its the same as the primer? I paint 90% of my stuff this way. If you're painting loads of something no need to give yourself more work. I'd prime grey. Wash everything in Black, touch up grey with a lighter grey and highlight it. Then paint the black parts.
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Oct 31, 2013 21:10
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Awesome, I'll do that in the future. Should save a lot of time considering I have about a billion termigants to paint
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Oct 31, 2013 21:14
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Millenium hand and shrimp.   
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Oct 31, 2013 22:03
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Millenium hand and shrimp. That is seriously wonderful. Kudos!
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Oct 31, 2013 22:17
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richyp posted:In the 40k thread I mentioned creating a very basic central blog that aggregates various blogs from fellow goons/friends of goons etc... into one place. If I can get some interest in this and some RSS feeds then once its hosted we can have it up and running pretty quickly. I just post my poo poo to my tumblr because I'm too lazy for a blog, I guess. I also made a doodle of a Ye Olde-Style grenade SA logo that might work (If someone improves upon it greatly).
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Nov 1, 2013 00:02
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More of my tau (and a DA captain and pink jawa)   
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Nov 1, 2013 00:34
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I'm making a 1/35 Aliens diorama (queen vs powerloader) and I thought I'd repost something I wrote up for a garage kit forum that might interest you guys: The iconic gratings used in the LV426 colony and aboard the Sulaco were a specific type of plastic pallet sprayed metallic silver, and close variants can be seen both in the original Alien and in Star Wars:  There are also these smaller tiles used most prominently in the Sulaco’s hangar:  Two scales of studio model were built in addition to the full Sulaco set – one 1:4, and another 1:12. I set out to recreate the full-scale versions as faithfully as possible, and after learning a bit of Sketchup I came up with these. The beauty is I can print these off at any scale I want for different projects. I scaled the files down to 1/35 and made a sprue:  Off it went to Shapeways, and a couple of weeks later this arrived in Australia:  Perfect, even though I was really pushing the minimum wall thicknesses – the thinnest bars in those gratings are a hair over 0.3mm thick! Here’s a scale test with AEF’s Bishop figure (which will also be incorporated into the diorama – with his arms, of course.)  Now to mould and cast the 3D printed master – not bad for my second ever mould, I think. Some bubbles on some of the parts but I only need four or so of the large grates and maybe ten of the small tiles:  So that’s where I’m up to – now to figure out the airlock and the lighting surrounding it. I’ll have to draw up some decals and have them custom printed for the airlock eventually – if anyone knows of a good place that will print custom decals, do let me know!
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Nov 1, 2013 01:04
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dexefiend posted:Airbrush Chat: Airbrush Chat: Sorry I'm late into this chat. You won't just avoid sinus cancer you will literally save brain cells and lung problems too, not to mention you'll avoid injuring the ones you love and any other second-hand fume recipients. Most compressed "spray anything" paint supplies are toxic and the toxicity varies by brand and paint within each brand (different propellents and different mediums; black primer is often more toxic than white primer for example), but it's just toxic. Avoid indoor spraying without a respirator Avoid indoor spraying without a PROPER ventilation hood and spray booth that has an appropriate amount of CFM. (Cubic Feet per Minute) Avoid excessive fans that minimize the impact of the ventilation booth & hood. Read the labels of the stuff you are using and follow the instructions to the letter and to the intent. LIVE Healthy - Please!
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Nov 1, 2013 01:38
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Schmuckrat posted:
What mold is that?
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Nov 1, 2013 01:51
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JEEVES420 posted:What mold is that? As I said - I made it from the 3D print!
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Nov 1, 2013 02:08
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what is the molding material that you used to to make the resin copies of the 3d printed pieces that you received from shapeway (in 2 weeks to Australia) from the computer mock up you made.
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Nov 1, 2013 02:37
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Tyranid Painting: The most stark contrasts and bright colors will occur with complementary colors. They end up looking really bright next to each other. Black and White really is the highest contrast, but the way that one was done the white highlighting on the black de-saturated the black. Smaller highlights and glossier paint will increase the contrast back up and possibly shorter transitions in some of the places as well. All the examples are better than anything I can find fast, so I'll leave it with those points.
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Nov 1, 2013 02:37
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El Estrago Bonito posted:You either need to Matte Varnish or greatly adjust the position of your Lightbox lamps. You're getting a washed out yellow tinge on the photos (bad) and a large amount of glare off of the miniature (also bad). The choice of background is also fighting the miniatures color scheme. Look for a slightly darker background; light grey or medium grey depending on your definition of those, and move from there. If you are getting a tint based on the type of light-bulb you are using check your camera for a custom white-balance setting, place an entirely white card in front of the camera (so it's the only thing in the viewscreen) and hit the custom white balance option/button. It should adjust for the bias of the camera and the bulbs you are using. IF you are using different bulbs, fix that as well by using all the same type. Different bulb types will really mess with the color balance of the image.
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Nov 1, 2013 02:42
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Millenium hand and shrimp. Bugrit, those look great.
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Nov 1, 2013 03:57
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Crossposting from the Oath Thread (which I never remember to do). Here's a bunch of minis from (primarily) the Descent-esque board game Mice & Mystics: I'm in near tears at the beauty. I am going to have the best Mice and Mystics set ever, I cannot wait to play! (Those are the minis from my game.)
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Nov 1, 2013 04:13
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My first Oath cross post! The Dreadball team is a bit sloppy and will get a little touch up before use, the Cyriss Vector is waiting for a base insert to round it off, and gently caress off forever Infinity minis and their tiny limbs and high detail that is beyond my skill, but I'm proud of what I'm doing with my Eldar mans
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Nov 1, 2013 05:01
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NTRabbit posted:My first Oath cross post! What size brush are you using for your dudes? I had the same kind of problems going on with my models, and what really improved it for me was using a bigger brush and somewhat thinner paint. It looks like what happened on the Infinity models is that you had some unthinned paint on a really small brush and you had wrestled with the surface tension just to get it to cover the primer. There's no way you can do all the details AND cover up all the primer all at once, really.
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Nov 1, 2013 05:39
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JEEVES420 posted:what is the molding material that you used to to make the resin copies of the 3d printed pieces that you received from shapeway (in 2 weeks to Australia) from the computer mock up you made. Why are you mad that you are bad at phrasing things? It's Barnes Pinkysil.
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Nov 1, 2013 05:39
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Section 9 posted:I'm in near tears at the beauty. I am going to have the best Mice and Mystics set ever, I cannot wait to play! (Those are the minis from my game.)  Happy to provide; glad you like 'em! (And, um, sorry about that one rat's tail. I suppose I could've looked harder for it after it broke off, or sculpted a replacement; but in the end, I
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Nov 1, 2013 06:40
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Under 15 posted:What size brush are you using for your dudes? I had the same kind of problems going on with my models, and what really improved it for me was using a bigger brush and somewhat thinner paint. It looks like what happened on the Infinity models is that you had some unthinned paint on a really small brush and you had wrestled with the surface tension just to get it to cover the primer. There's no way you can do all the details AND cover up all the primer all at once, really. I had an Army Painter insane detail brush so yeah, kinda small. I covered the primer up fine with off white, and mostly got the guns and hair ok though the hair lacks detail, it's just the leg pads and belts that defeated me. Also eyes, because my hands shake like a motherfucker. First time thinning my paints became relevant to me I guess. Also I tried nuln oil to make the Asuras have that kind of dirty look over the white that it has on the box, and it basically did nothing but ruing the whole job 
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Nov 1, 2013 07:41
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Hope you weren't applying that wash with an insane detail brush. That could explain it.
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Nov 1, 2013 08:01
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dishwasherlove posted:Hope you weren't applying that wash with an insane detail brush. That could explain it. No, used a much larger brush for that! I think I just used too much of it.
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Nov 1, 2013 10:21
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richyp posted:That's not the enri I remember I'm a pro child wrangler now, I can barely find the time to make myself a cup of tea let alone whip up another blog and keep it updated but ok, I'll bite just because I need a project of sorts to work on. I'll make my focus terrain (but won't refrain from adding the odd blog post about whatever I've been painting et al) - I'll try and whip the start of something up in the next few days. I'll probably set up my own blog rather than contribute to a central blog, if that's workable but if it's all aggregated, then it's all good v vSchmuckrat posted:I'm making a 1/35 Aliens diorama (queen vs powerloader) and I thought I'd repost something I wrote up for a garage kit forum that might interest you guys... This is of extreme interest, keep posting 
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Nov 1, 2013 11:55
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/\/\As a proud lurker and former Games Workshop addict, I agree with that guy. I wanna see this diorama man.Schmuckrat posted:I'm making a 1/35 Aliens diorama (queen vs powerloader) and I thought I'd repost something I wrote up for a garage kit forum that might interest you guys:
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Nov 1, 2013 12:20
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