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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Not that I would free solo stuff anyway, but I've been stung by a wasp twice now while climbing. In both cases I was pretty lucky that the nest I happened on was really small, I only got one sting, and it didn't make me fall. I've also been hit by rockfall while climbing, although again it was a small stone and basically just startled me. It's one thing to believe in your ability (and maybe with good reason!) but it's another thing entirely to trust mother nature not to mess with you.

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Nifty
Aug 31, 2004

armorer posted:

Not that I would free solo stuff anyway, but I've been stung by a wasp twice now while climbing. In both cases I was pretty lucky that the nest I happened on was really small, I only got one sting, and it didn't make me fall. I've also been hit by rockfall while climbing, although again it was a small stone and basically just startled me. It's one thing to believe in your ability (and maybe with good reason!) but it's another thing entirely to trust mother nature not to mess with you.

I actually asked him if he got scared when he was climbing this stuff that is really easy for him, and he said the one thing that he gets scared of is holds breaking off. I noticed him knocking a little bit against each hold before he would grip it and put his weight on it.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Yeah that says to me that he has thought a little bit about what he is doing, but I still think it's remarkably stupid. If he's after adrenaline or something, there are safer ways to get it.

Be safe out there people. You can be one of the best climbers in the world and get tossed off of something easy by a freak accident.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
How did he free solo half of a 12a? Did he downclimb after getting to a certain point?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004

Well how he got down from all of them was down climbing, so yeah if I remember correctly he didnt think the pinch was a solid hold on the crux of the 12a so he just down climbed.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001

Impromptu trip to the Red River Gorge this coming weekend! Eee!!

Favorite climbs there?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
My friend keeps trying to get me to go there...but it's bishop season and I have a j tree trip coming up. Sack up for planet x baby.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Cybor Tap posted:

Impromptu trip to the Red River Gorge this coming weekend! Eee!!

Favorite climbs there?

Fuzzy Undercling!

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Cybor Tap posted:

Impromptu trip to the Red River Gorge this coming weekend! Eee!!

Favorite climbs there?

And Amarillo Sunset!

pokchu
Aug 22, 2007
D:
Dogleg! Gilgamesh!

Around what grade?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Muir valley has a bunch of good stuff. I liked boneyard (one armed bandit at 5.9 was good). Bruise brothers had a bunch of good ones too (send me on my way also at 5.9).

Both have a good amount of 10s and 11s.

There is a ton of climbing down there though. Go hog wild.

Also don't forget your stick clip... Lol. They just love stick clipping at the red.

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011
My housemate is over in RRG from the UK at the moment. From what Ive heard hes loving it. It sounds pretty amazing.

weekly font
Dec 1, 2004


Everytime I try to fly I fall
Without my wings
I feel so small
Guess I need you baby...



Bouldering question: I've gotten to the point in about 3 months where I've started V2s. Feels good man. There are some V2s that I can do easily and there are others that I can't even start. Doesn't seem to be an inbetween. Is there something I should be focusing on or does any possible advice just boil down to "keep climbing?"

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

weekly font posted:

Bouldering question: I've gotten to the point in about 3 months where I've started V2s. Feels good man. There are some V2s that I can do easily and there are others that I can't even start. Doesn't seem to be an inbetween. Is there something I should be focusing on or does any possible advice just boil down to "keep climbing?"

Footwork/body positioning. Watch the feet of climbers who are much better than you.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target

weekly font posted:

Bouldering question: I've gotten to the point in about 3 months where I've started V2s. Feels good man. There are some V2s that I can do easily and there are others that I can't even start. Doesn't seem to be an inbetween. Is there something I should be focusing on or does any possible advice just boil down to "keep climbing?"

With the V2s at my gym (although it's hard to tell as they grade stuff as V0-V1, V1-V3 and then V2-V4 in different colour bands so that there's some overlap) I found that getting started on them was the hardest part. I just tended to ask my friends how the hell to start them and the answer was usually to sort my feet/body out and use the holds more to hang off rather than to grip on to.

Unoriginal Name
Aug 1, 2006

by sebmojo

weekly font posted:

Bouldering question: I've gotten to the point in about 3 months where I've started V2s. Feels good man. There are some V2s that I can do easily and there are others that I can't even start. Doesn't seem to be an inbetween. Is there something I should be focusing on or does any possible advice just boil down to "keep climbing?"

Don't be afraid to flag your foot or smear it on the wall if that body position puts you in a better position to use the available hands. You don't necessarily need to use both of the available foot holds at any given time basically. If you're short, learn to lock off low or jump high.

old-timey newspaper gal
Feb 23, 2005

Headhunter posted:

With the V2s at my gym (although it's hard to tell as they grade stuff as V0-V1, V1-V3 and then V2-V4 in different colour bands so that there's some overlap) I found that getting started on them was the hardest part. I just tended to ask my friends how the hell to start them and the answer was usually to sort my feet/body out and use the holds more to hang off rather than to grip on to.

When I run into this on the start of problems my first step is usually to stop using both feet and try using an edge + flag. Almost every time this happens its because your hips are too far from the wall on something that overhangs. Any time I have an issue with a route I always look for my problems from the bottom up.

4R7 THi3F
Aug 8, 2005

oh... so you ARE sick....
So my mom is 61, and she randomly dropped in on me last week. Since it was a climbing day, I decided to take her to the rock climbing gym.... as a social experiment. I was 99% sure that she would hate it and yell at me for doing dangerous things. HOWEVER, after she stopped complaining about her shoes, she actually *really* enjoyed herself. She climbed up a V0 on her first try and told me "I can see why you like doing this."

Then, like a good Asian mom, she yelled at me for still being stuck on V1's: "You have been doing this for 3 weeks? You're still on V1? YOU SHOULD BE ON V4 NOW."

Pic of her:

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience
So uh...who's heading to Bishop this Halloween weekend?

A lot of people at my gym are gonna be out there. Weather looks pretty awesome, with a good high/low temp spread. Might be windy, but no forecast of it. I think the weather system should be burned out by mid-week.

I intend to attempt Disco Hulk (V8) but I don't know if I will succeed. Acid Wash and whatever variations are on it are on the list, too.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009

4R7 THi3F posted:

So my mom is 61, and she randomly dropped in on me last week. Since it was a climbing day, I decided to take her to the rock climbing gym.... as a social experiment. I was 99% sure that she would hate it and yell at me for doing dangerous things. HOWEVER, after she stopped complaining about her shoes, she actually *really* enjoyed herself. She climbed up a V0 on her first try and told me "I can see why you like doing this."

Then, like a good Asian mom, she yelled at me for still being stuck on V1's: "You have been doing this for 3 weeks? You're still on V1? YOU SHOULD BE ON V4 NOW."

Pic of her:


Wish I could get my mother into bouldering but her hip's no good :(

I'd be V6 by now instead of my plateau at V4.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001

Forgot to update! I got back from the Red. It was AMAZING. I climbed in Muir a bit, and the PMRP. Led Breakfast Burrito at Drive By. That was heady as poo poo. Drive by is incredible. We didn't do quite as much climbing as I would have liked, but I got 3 good days in.

Hey Colorado crew, I have a chance to possibly get a job in Golden. I'm incredibly nervous to pick up and move across the country (from upstate NY). If I moved there, I'd probably like to live in Denver. What sort of stuff should I be considering? Whats the cost of living like? Can I live comfortably on a 32k a year?

It all happened rather quickly and I'm trying to find my bearings, weigh options, assess commitments, etc...

Gah!!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I think 32 would be tough if you have any kind of debt. Rent is pretty high (too drat high...?) in Denver and golden is pretty expensive as well.

It is a cool place to live though.

Glad you liked the red. That whole place is sweet!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
Going to bishop tomorrow till wed! Moon raker I will crush you.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

spwrozek posted:

I think 32 would be tough if you have any kind of debt. Rent is pretty high (too drat high...?) in Denver and golden is pretty expensive as well.

Depends on your expenses. I get by on way less than that (Golden).

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Cybor Tap posted:

Forgot to update! I got back from the Red. It was AMAZING. I climbed in Muir a bit, and the PMRP. Led Breakfast Burrito at Drive By. That was heady as poo poo. Drive by is incredible. We didn't do quite as much climbing as I would have liked, but I got 3 good days in.

Hey Colorado crew, I have a chance to possibly get a job in Golden. I'm incredibly nervous to pick up and move across the country (from upstate NY). If I moved there, I'd probably like to live in Denver. What sort of stuff should I be considering? Whats the cost of living like? Can I live comfortably on a 32k a year?

It all happened rather quickly and I'm trying to find my bearings, weigh options, assess commitments, etc...

Gah!!

It's possible. Just be sure to pick and choose. I know people who have gotten by on less. I know people who have gotten by on less in Boulder (including me).

If you need a place to crash just give a call. I don't know if you still have my number, by you can PM me here.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Finally in a position to sign up and climb consistently at a gym so I'll be doing that today. Pretty excited for that and really looking forward to this amazingly fun new hobby. Now I just need to find a consistent climbing partner. Any Houston goons around?

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience
Here's a neat panorama of me standing above the Sads in Bishop! From this last weekend...

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011
2 weeks ago I set myself a board project to work on over winter. Like a benchmark. At the time it felt impossibly hard. Today I did it first attempt. Getting better is amazing and stronger fingers are the best thing ever.

Sassafrasquatch
May 7, 2007

Any Houston climbers in this thread? I usually climb at Texas Rock Gym, but my regular partners are starting to climb less frequently. Like as in not at all. I've used the phone list there before, but have had some mixed results (including one really creepy old guy) so I figured I'd check here first. I climb around the 510a-c range, but am looking to step it up to 11s.

Also I organize occasional trips out to Reimer's Ranch with my buddies in Corpus if any Texas goons are interested in coming along.

Kefit
May 16, 2006
layl
So I had been stuck on V2s for a couple of months now. Like, I could send almost any V2 at my gym with a little work, but I could barely even start the V3s. I sent a single V3 a couple of weeks ago (and promptly celebrated by twisting my ankle lightly), but that seemed more like a fluke than anything else. Tonight I sent two more V3s and made some very solid progress on two more. Hell yeah. I hope this becomes a regular thing! I feel like I've made some breakthroughs in terms of controlling my center of gravity and body positioning against the wall. Now if only I could get past struggling to even start heavily overhung V2s...

I wish I could get one of my friends into climbing, I could use a partner. Too bad they're all perpetually broke and/or lazy.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target
That's the part of climbing I love best as a relative newbie, the feeling of gradual improvement week on week. I can do problems now that only a month ago I would have looked at, shaken my head and just walked away from. I nailed one last night that I'd been working on for a couple of weeks and it was just the most amazing feeling ever, especially with my climbing buddies cheering me on.

Also it's nice to be approaching the level my friends climb at. My first few weeks were basically blundering up my gyms V0 problems and my own occasionally asking my mates for help, but now I can at least attempt the same problems they're working on and it's making me a much better climber.

With regards to getting your friends into climbing, do you know any that have gym memberships? I've recently gotten a friend into bouldering by convincing him that it's like the gym but more fun. It's pretty much accidental exercise.

Headhunter fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Nov 7, 2013

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008
The season for squeezin is upon us already. So post your proj!

I'm looking to get moonraker, soul slinger, and maybe checkerboard. Huzzah Bishop!

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience

jackchaos posted:

The season for squeezin is upon us already. So post your proj!

I'm looking to get moonraker, soul slinger, and maybe checkerboard. Huzzah Bishop!

Acid Wash right, stand start. Ugh...I keep blowing the last move.

Also Action Figure and Pow Pow (even though I hate it...it's so easy to work on).

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006

Kefit posted:

So I had been stuck on V2s for a couple of months now. Like, I could send almost any V2 at my gym with a little work, but I could barely even start the V3s. I sent a single V3 a couple of weeks ago (and promptly celebrated by twisting my ankle lightly), but that seemed more like a fluke than anything else. Tonight I sent two more V3s and made some very solid progress on two more. Hell yeah. I hope this becomes a regular thing! I feel like I've made some breakthroughs in terms of controlling my center of gravity and body positioning against the wall. Now if only I could get past struggling to even start heavily overhung V2s...

I wish I could get one of my friends into climbing, I could use a partner. Too bad they're all perpetually broke and/or lazy.

If only there were other people at the gym you could make friends with :P

Kefit
May 16, 2006
layl

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

If only there were other people at the gym you could make friends with :P

If only I wasn't a weirdo introvert with social anxiety issues who considers himself lucky to have friends at all :P

But seriously, yeah the best times I've had at the gym have been when I've joined an impromptu team up to work a tough problem together. Maybe I should properly introduce myself and learn some names next time that happens.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience

Kefit posted:

If only I wasn't a weirdo introvert with social anxiety issues who considers himself lucky to have friends at all :P

But seriously, yeah the best times I've had at the gym have been when I've joined an impromptu team up to work a tough problem together. Maybe I should properly introduce myself and learn some names next time that happens.

There's plenty of people just like you at the gym.

My favorite climbers to hang out with are the ones that stay particularly modest about their own climbing ability, good or bad.

Thom Yorke raps
Nov 2, 2004


Kefit posted:

If only I wasn't a weirdo introvert with social anxiety issues who considers himself lucky to have friends at all :P

But seriously, yeah the best times I've had at the gym have been when I've joined an impromptu team up to work a tough problem together. Maybe I should properly introduce myself and learn some names next time that happens.

My experience has been that climbers are the nicest people in the world. In fact, sometimes I get frustrated at the gym because random people keep wanting to talk about some problem we're working, and I'm trying to just be all introverted. It is a great way to help lessen social anxiety because you can have a bunch of successful social interactions.
If you're really worried, go at a time you don't normally go and just talk to anyone working the same area as you.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
"Successful social interaction" is one of the more hilarious sperg phrases I've heard lately.


...But I'm one of those people at the gym that try not to talk to strangers.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Kefit posted:

If only I wasn't a weirdo introvert with social anxiety issues who considers himself lucky to have friends at all :P

But seriously, yeah the best times I've had at the gym have been when I've joined an impromptu team up to work a tough problem together. Maybe I should properly introduce myself and learn some names next time that happens.

Definitely! Climbers are some of the easiest people to get "in" with man. It's especially easy to get to know people who are around your skill level too.

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Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target
If you stick to the same schedule every week it's impossible *not* to at least be on "hey, how are you?" type terms with a bunch of people. At least that's how it is where I climb.

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