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Managed to get another little bit done after work. Timing belt on and tensioned, got the cover back on the lower part of the timing belt. Got my brother over, and after about an hour managed to get the engine mount back on. Discovered then that one of the bolts was just a little bit longer than the other two.  Oh well I'll look at that tomorrow, will have to remove the mount again. Since the timing cover was on I could put the wheel back on and put it back on the ground. So hopefully over the weekend, get the engine mount fixed up. Do the exhaust gaskets. Connect rest of wires/hoses and maybe put the radiator back in. 
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Nov 8, 2013 08:20
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I cut off the broken washer resevoir cap with a pair of pliers, stuck the new one on, and filled the resevoir after irrigating the gently caress out of it to ensure it wasn't full of a decades' worth of grime. Good news: all nozzles weren't clogged. Just most of them. 
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Nov 8, 2013 08:54
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Finally got around to a way, way overdue oil change. GM Oil Change thingie went off about 500 miles ago. This puts me at just a hair under It was still almost on the full mark, though the little bit that spilled on the garage floor has an odd red tint.  I have to wonder if the Mobil 1 cleaned a bunch of gunk out - the filter cartridge was absolutely disgusting. No metal or anything big visible, but it definitely had a lot of dirt.Got a sample while it was draining, it's going off to Blackstone tomorrow. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:23 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 09:47
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Started removing the transmission on the Volvo Wednesday. All that's left is four bellhousing bolts (all loosened) and then drop the transmission with mount still attached. New (to me) AW70 out of an 86 240 goes in on Saturday. Operation "Swap Transmission in driveway before HOA gets pissed" is still under wraps.
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Nov 8, 2013 13:38
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Brought her home.. '89 Shelby Daytona for the low low price of $0. Was a good friends project he decided he had too many projects, and knows I like these cars, so I got it, a good engine on a stand and a pile of parts for nothing. I essentially just need to freshen up the engine, drop it in and clean up some mouse piss in the engine bay. I decided to part ways with my perpetual project '86, everytime I touched it, it needed more stuff and I was stalled with it. Mighty Horse fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 16:22
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I put in a new o2 sensor after getting a p0155 code in my jeep. I replaced it with a Bosch sensor and the code came right back. Then I researched the problem and learned that I should never ever use Bosch o2 sensors. I put in a new OEM sensor (NTK) this morning, hopefully the code doesn't come back again I also put in $4 worth of new clutch and brake pedal pads - the original pads were hard as gently caress and one cracked off at the edge. Get ready for the most exciting photo ever: 
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Nov 8, 2013 17:15
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Received and installed the remaining rear turn signal LED bulbs and the LED-friendly flasher for the Cherokee. Installed both, and then realized that, with the lights on and the flashers running, the third brake light was also blinking, albeit somewhat more dimly that full-on. Turned off the running lights, and the third brake light stopped flashing, but now the regular brake lights were dimly blinking. WTF? I don't think it was doing that with LEDs everywhere except the rear blinkers, and the old flasher in there, but maybe it was and I had my head up my rear end and didn't notice. Anyway, after much cursing, and bulb- and flasher-swapping, I determined that the fricking trailer light adapter that converts from separate blinkers to combined turn/brake was feeding back just enough voltage to dimly light the brake lights. So now I need to find a better isolated trailer wiring adapter, I guess. It was also lighting up the turn signal indicators on the dash a bit when the lights were on, but that was because voltage was feeding back through the incandescent bulbs still installed in the side markers, which use some grounding through the turn-signal trickery to blink with or opposite of the signals. Replacing those with LEDs solved that, but now they only blink when the running lights are on. Ah, well.
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Nov 8, 2013 21:30
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Bought another set of track wheels. 17x9 dforce LTWs, supposedly 16.6lb each.   Seller complained about shipping cost. When I got them, they were in 2 loving boxes instead of individually wrapped. Why would you box up easy to roll round objects?
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Nov 9, 2013 00:06
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Crustashio posted:Seller complained about shipping cost. When I got them, they were in 2 loving boxes instead of individually wrapped. Why would you box up easy to roll round objects? So he put each pair into boxes? That is a little odd, but when I ship wheels with tires, I ship them in pairs. I put them face-to-face with a couple heavy pieces of cardboard together, then cardboard on the outside and finally I tape the poo poo out of them, all the way around, over and over. Ends up under UPS shipping weight and not oversized, so shipping cost isn't crazy.
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Nov 9, 2013 00:41
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My winters were ugly and peeling and gross. I tried stripping the remaining chrome with a wire wheel and oven cleaner, but what remains of the chrome is hard as hell. in the end i gave up and just ground off the bubbles and what was peeling, sanded my arms raw, and threw a bunch of blitz black at em.    I don't know how well the paint is going to stick with peeling chrome and sub-zero spraying, but i guess we'll find out soon. I'm sure i'm going to hate myself in a month when my half-assed prep work makes em look poo poo, but we'll see in a coupe hours how the paint dries, and if it's not too terrible i'll throw them on tomorrow. edit: seems to be drying smooth, be interesting to see how it sticks. Blitz black is the best black. 
Powershift fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 01:07
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meatpimp posted:So he put each pair into boxes? That is a little odd, but when I ship wheels with tires, I ship them in pairs. I put them face-to-face with a couple heavy pieces of cardboard together, then cardboard on the outside and finally I tape the poo poo out of them, all the way around, over and over. Ends up under UPS shipping weight and not oversized, so shipping cost isn't crazy. Yes, in a giant box (like 30x30x30) that weighed 90lbs. Normally when I've gotten mounted sets they've all been packaged individually and the seller says it costs about 200-300 to ship to canada via UPS. This guy said it cost him 540. Not even sure why he sent them, we did the deal on a forum and I said if the shipping cost was over 350 don't bother since I didn't want to cover that high.
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Nov 9, 2013 01:38
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My rears came in, so I got my wheels on. This is before the suspension settled. I went from 17x9.5 fronts and 18x10.5 rears to 18x9 fronts and 19x10.5 rears. Also put 305 tires on the back instead of 295. Even with the larger wheels/tires, I shed weight. Went from 51lbs/wheel&tire in the front to 46.2. In the rear I went from 56.2lbs/wheel&tire to 53.4. It's not much but it's ~15lbs less. It also gives me a lot more tire choices in the future.
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Nov 9, 2013 02:16
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Less unsprung weight and more tire? What's not to like!
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Nov 9, 2013 02:56
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 There's a first time for everything! Also a huge thanks to the poster who posted this idea: 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 03:09
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Spent the day fixing a cascade of failures on the F-150. Rear passenger bearing ate the axle shaft which caused it to wobble and wear out the seal which in turn caused gear oil to leak into the drum and onto the shoes. Noticed when it felt like the rear abs was kicking in whenever I hit the brakes. Bought new bearings and seals for both sides and a new axle shaft. Warrantied the shoes since I had just bought them last year. What the old one looked like  What it's supposed to look like.  Also replaced the oil filter housing gasket since it was leaking more oil than I wanted to tolerate. So much work for a $10 gasket.
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Nov 9, 2013 03:20
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Decided that my mix was too lean after checking the plugs. They seemed to have a burning at the tip and a lot of hard deposits. Went up from 53's to 58's and it seems to run happier. I'll give it a week and see if I went too far. I figure the truck came from a higher altitude and was jetted at a time before ethanol, so I went with 5.
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Nov 9, 2013 03:30
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Beach Bum posted:Also a huge thanks to the poster who posted this idea:
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Nov 9, 2013 06:40
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Crustashio posted:Yes, in a giant box (like 30x30x30) that weighed 90lbs. Normally when I've gotten mounted sets they've all been packaged individually and the seller says it costs about 200-300 to ship to canada via UPS. This guy said it cost him 540. Not even sure why he sent them, we did the deal on a forum and I said if the shipping cost was over 350 don't bother since I didn't want to cover that high. UPS wont take anything thats not a box pretty much.
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Nov 9, 2013 07:58
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So while I'm a big fan of my new wheels, I hate the centercaps. Until I can find a better solution, I wrapped the middle part of the cap with carbon fiber vinyl and put some Corvette stickers on there. I'll throw some clear coat on them tomorrow to add some protection. I figure that should give me at least 3-4hp per wheel extra due to the cf vinyl.  Not perfect, but better than a giant silver TSW logo on gunmetal wheels. Incase anyone is interested in the process, here's a thread on how I did it. dangerz fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 09:04
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Because I'm immature as poo poo: coolskillrex remix posted:UPS wont take anything thats not a box pretty much. When I worked for them, there were plenty of things that went without a box. I saw plenty of wheels and tires. And the occasional motorcycle frame. Plenty of other random poo poo, they were called "irregs" (for irregular). They couldn't go through the conveyor system, someone would bring them on a u-boat and dump them on my dock. You'll pay through the nose for the extra handling though.
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Nov 9, 2013 10:26
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coolskillrex remix posted:UPS wont take anything thats not a box pretty much. Uh, no. Every single tire or tire + wheel combo I've gotten online has been unboxed. All from UPS.
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Nov 9, 2013 13:58
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Same, I have had so many tires show up with a shipping label saranwrapped on. Tailpipes and other goofy shaped poo poo, too.
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Nov 9, 2013 14:23
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I put the winter wheels on it today. 205/55R16 Michelin Alpin A4s, French tires for a French car   They're pretty gnarly, I like them already.  E: Also, rolled over 150,000km on the way to visit my parents
KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 15:49
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Finished my garage last week  : So today I put my landrover into it. To get the landy under the door I had to take the door out of its runners to wind it right back to the roll and then let a bit of air out of the tyres. Scraped it under the door (I couldn't built it any taller!)   It is going into the garage so that I can fix my front wings (the aluminium has cracked found most of the mounting holes and they rattle annoyingly), fit a heater (an eberspacher diesel) and weld a hole in the chassis for its MOT next month. First I pulled one of my front wings off. The metal looked a little bit messy so I though i would test my needle scaler on it. gently caress. Looks like I am welding the bulkhead too:  A needle scaler is simultaneously the most awesome and shittiest tool! Then I had a go at a rusty wheel.  5 minutes later:  awesome. I also had a mystery fluid leak from one rear hub so i pulled the drum off to find that it was oil leaking from the hub seal because the race for the seal has a big lip in it  new stub axle time.
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Nov 9, 2013 19:25
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Reminds me of when I opened the near-side passenger door on my dad's 1996 Discovery, saw a rusty patch and proceeded to stick my fist straight through it. Landrovers appear to be 2nd place to old Alfas when it comes to rust. My dad also once had an Alfa Sud Cloverleaf, and that pretty much melted.
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Nov 9, 2013 19:56
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Falken posted:Reminds me of when I opened the near-side passenger door on my dad's 1996 Discovery, saw a rusty patch and proceeded to stick my fist straight through it. This landrover was built in 1965 or so, so it isn't doing too badly  I last had that wing off in 2001 and back then I patched up the bottom section of that footwell and doorpost (ignoring the top bits) and replaced the whole of the footwell and door post on the other side. I can cope with welding it every 12 years! (I just scrapped a 12 year old saab!)
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Nov 9, 2013 20:13
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Just did rear rotors and pads in my Jetta. First brake DIY job by myself, woot! I had a friend help me with the fronts a few months ago so I had a decent idea, though of course the rear pistons are of the type where you need the special "rotate AND push in" piston reset tool. Next up, CV half-shafts on the wife's Passat. 
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Nov 9, 2013 21:32
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dangerz posted:My rears came in, so I got my wheels on. This is before the suspension settled. I measured all my sets. My knockoff BMW style 359 19x8.5 fronts came in at the lightest at 48.2lbs. my 19x9.5 TSW jamara rears are 59.8lbs. All my wheels are heavy . The stock f-150 20" are 86.8lbs/wheel, the american eagle winters are 77.2lbs/wheel, so now my truck is a race car!    Also, i'm officially in winter mode.  And i got my winters on the ford, the paint looks really good. the black suits this style of wheel far more than chrome ever did.  
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Nov 9, 2013 23:08
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Started the process of officially bringing the pain:
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Nov 9, 2013 23:14
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Ozmiander posted:Started the process of officially bringing the pain: Did the other two break off?
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Nov 9, 2013 23:26
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meatpimp posted:Did the other two break off? Not yet! I gave up for the night since I don't have the right combination of sockets and joints to undo the #8 COP.
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Nov 10, 2013 00:22
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Speaking of wheels, I'm looking to change from my D90s to something nicer. I'll have to weigh in the D90s, which apparently weigh 8.5kg front, 9.9kg rear. Whatever I get, It'd be 17" or 18" and let me stick to 205 and 225 section front and rear respectively. Can't be heavier than the D90s either. What would be the point of that?
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Nov 10, 2013 01:29
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Found another 1994 BMW 530i at the junkyard, so I decided to fix my front door. The door handle was broken and the window track was bad so I had to duct tape the window up.  Forgot to get a picture of the finished product. But imagine a green door on a blue car. Window goes down! Also, Jackson Pollack got loose in my engine bay.  I also replaced the intake tube. It cleared up a check engine light, so hurray!
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Nov 10, 2013 01:38
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Couldn't you have transplanted the handle and window track to your door? (I have no idea what the inner workings of a BMW door look like)
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Nov 10, 2013 02:13
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Probably, but I was having serious problems working on that door. I previously bought a handle on eBay and it was totally different. It was for the same car. The inside is so cramped. I took the easy way out. For me, painting is a lot easier than working inside that door.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:44
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Bought a set Gislaved NordFrost 5s and Ronal R42 alloy wheels on Kijiji for $700 and put them on today. 
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Nov 10, 2013 04:16
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"Gunmetal" plastidip... Came out looking like primer... We'll see how it looks in full sunlight + rebadged...    
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Nov 10, 2013 06:14
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New keyfob shell showed up for the Avalon. Circuit board swapped right over, fits perfectly. There's no logos on the new one, and the plastic feels a little cheaper, but at least we have a fob that will attach to a key chain again.
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Nov 10, 2013 10:23
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Flushed the coolant from the Taurus. Did I say coolant? I meant Brown sludge like water that may have been coolant at one point but was now just causing the Taurus to not give me any heat. Now I get wonderful hot boiling heat again. 
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Nov 10, 2013 10:40
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I washed and waxed the subaru while it is still warmish outside. With the sun out it was pretty nice out with the 39 degree temperature. I'm going to have to wax the car again before the snow hits through.
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Nov 10, 2013 20:56
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