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the spyder posted:Did you use a steamer? Uh no thats probably a good idea! Danke. What brand/type would you recommend? I suppose I could pick one up to also use on my car interior.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:47
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So I bought a brand new 2014 Mazda 3 about 3 weeks ago, being my first new car, I want to really take care of it. Here is what she looked like when I brought it home.   Now after some heavy rain, and because my rear end in a top hat neighbor refuses to prune his tree that hangs over where I'm forced to park, the car looks like poo poo already. My workplace is close to the ocean and conveniently located next to a paper plant, which spews poo poo in the air, along with salt, so I really want to keep the paint protected. I figured I start this weekend by stripping the dealership's wax job with Dawn, fix any found "Dealer Installed" swirls/scratches, clay and then wax, using the goon approved techniques from this thread.  Not pictured is Meguiar's Ultimate Wash and Wax, a bag of microfiber, and a giant drying towel. So did I do good for preparing for babby's first detailing? Anything else I should know for washing and detailing a new car for the first time? Oh, and how can I keep brake dust from accumulating on my wheels? Is it possible?
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Nov 7, 2013 23:26
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the spyder posted:Use a steamer- won't hurt the defroster or lines. I have no idea why I never even thought of this.  shoophobo posted:Oh, and how can I keep brake dust from accumulating on my wheels? Is it possible? Get used to waxing, and rinsing the poo poo out of them. That is about the only way I know of to keep your alloys clean. 
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Nov 7, 2013 23:29
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shoophobo posted:So did I do good for preparing for babby's first detailing? When you say you want to fix any swirls, what do you have for doing that? If you're sticking with Megairs, they do both a compound and a polish in their "Ultimate" range. quote:Anything else I should know for washing and detailing a new car for the first time? Use good quality glass cleaner. quote:Oh, and how can I keep brake dust from accumulating on my wheels? Is it possible?
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Nov 8, 2013 00:34
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InitialDave posted:Save the Quik Detailer that comes in the clay kit, use regular tapwater with a little of the wash and wax in it as claying lubricant instead. InitialDave posted:When you say you want to fix any swirls, what do you have for doing that? If you're sticking with Megairs, they do both a compound and a polish in their "Ultimate" range. InitialDave posted:Get some good quality masking tape to edge off the plastic trim, rather than getting polish or wax on it. I like 3M's blue 3434 tape, always a nice residue-free removal. I have some Stoners, I'm going to try using newspaper as well. By the way, any opinion on the aerosol vs the standard spray? Should I clay the wheels first (after washing) to make sure I get all the brake dust, then wax? Thanks for the advice, and I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done!
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Nov 8, 2013 01:02
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shoophobo posted:my rear end in a top hat neighbor refuses to prune his tree that hangs over where I'm forced to park Check your local regulations? Nearly everywhere I've lived has had some provision for you to trim trees and poo poo that hang onto your property up to the property line. The car looks nice and it sounds like you're off to the right start.
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Nov 8, 2013 01:58
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Would anyone be able to give any advice on fixing a pretty poo poo paint job? My car was resprayed by the previous owner two years ago (It looked like poo poo the day I bought it and that was 3 months after paint) and it looks like absolute poo poo. It's the original paint code, but, the surface is hardly smooth at all and looks rather dull even after I clean it. Instead of looking pretty awesome like this car: (This is the original paint, and same colour as mine)  It looks like this:  Pretty poo poo (Plus whoever was painting it didn't give enough of a poo poo to not spray the trim). Figuring I could go buy some heavy abrasive polishing compound, a decent polishing wheel set and have at it, but, wanted to know whether or not my paint's absolutely hosed quality-wise. I've tried so far with a little orbiting wheel and some Meguiar's paint restorer stuff, and whilst it looks a bit better, it's still pretty poo poo. I really want to respray it back to factory perfect like the car above, but, a very nice paint job is way out of my price range.
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Nov 8, 2013 05:35
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Wet sand and pick up a Megs Microfiber Correction System kit with a DA polisher. It's probably the most beginner friendly way to improve things. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yC_D4eoYs0
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Nov 8, 2013 05:43
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shoophobo posted:Should I clay the wheels first (after washing) to make sure I get all the brake dust, then wax? Should you want to, though, keep a old or dirtier bit of clay just for the wheels. Speaking of clay, particularly on a car that was transported by rail, you'll be amazed how much iron oxide you pull out the first time you do the paintwork.
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Nov 8, 2013 11:11
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Brigdh posted:Check your local regulations? Nearly everywhere I've lived has had some provision for you to trim trees and poo poo that hang onto your property up to the property line. InitialDave posted:I find claying is rarely necessary, as the wheel cleaner I use (Wonder Wheels, not sure if you can get it in the US) does a pretty good job of removing everything. As for claying a new car, that's exactly what I thought, my car was transported from Japan by boat so its probably covered in radioactive fallout. 
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Nov 8, 2013 15:12
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shoophobo posted:I'll see, maybe contact the HOA. I doubt anything will get done, they're a bunch of jokers too. quote:I'll see about Wonder Wheels, I have some sort of Mothers Wheel Cleaner laying around here somewhere as well. There seems to be a lot of dust for just 300 miles, probably because the brakes are new. Saying that, my experience is that if you clean the wheels intensively once, even without waxing or sealing them, a weekly clean down is really easy, and I use a less aggressive cleaner for that (Muc Off, a pink cleaner/degreaser normally used for mountain bikes and ATVs etc).
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Nov 8, 2013 19:07
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Maybe I'm super lucky or something, but I now just use regular car wash soap on my wheels and it works just fine. As long as you keep the wheels from having brake dust sit on them for months you probably shouldn't have an issue. I also prefer regular car soap because I'm assuming that it is a much milder soap/solvent/whatever-it-actually-is and I don't see the need to bust out high-powered cleaners for something that it doesn't really need. YMMV
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Nov 8, 2013 19:21
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bull3964 posted:Wet sand and pick up a Megs Microfiber Correction System kit with a DA polisher. It's probably the most beginner friendly way to improve things.   You're a loving wizard.
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Nov 11, 2013 00:47
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PhoenixWing posted:Tried it on the hatch. Hoooooooly poo poo. Looks like a new trunk lid! Can't wait to see the whole car like that.
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Nov 11, 2013 01:23
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PhoenixWing posted:Tried it on the hatch.  Welp now I know what to buy when I buy my Porter Cable. Can you explain the wetsand process in more detail? Link? Thanks.
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Nov 11, 2013 04:11
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Chinatown posted:
Unless your paint is completely messed up like his is, I would recommend against wet sanding. Post a pic of your car
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Nov 11, 2013 04:41
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TATPants posted:Unless your paint is completely messed up like his is, I would recommend against wet sanding. Post a pic of your car Its a 05 BMW. In pretty good shape. I hand wax every month or so and wash weekly most of the time. It just has alot of web-type swirls. I also just recently took off my clear bra and theres a fairly significant difference on the hood where it used to be. I think that kit by itself should probably do the trick after looking up some reviews on detailed image. I will probably just but a PorterCable and that kit and I assume that will get me to where I want it to be. Thanks.
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Nov 11, 2013 04:46
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Chinatown posted:Its a 05 BMW. In pretty good shape. I hand wax every month or so and wash weekly most of the time. It just has alot of web-type swirls. I also just recently took off my clear bra and theres a fairly significant difference on the hood where it used to be. I just looked it up and wet sanding is not a part of that tutorial, which is what I was thinking you shouldn't do. You should be OK with the kit, but there may be some better options to customize the pad/polish combo out there.
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Nov 11, 2013 05:55
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I want to hit the paint on my '77 Blazer. It's a single stage light blue that is really flat. Don't want to get too aggro with it. My general idea now is to Dawn wash, clay bar, then Meguiar's #7 it followed by a carn wax. Is there a good sealant I can consider between the #7 and wax?
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Nov 11, 2013 15:59
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Results time. So here is what I started with. Not bad, some water spots and some bird poo poo on the hood.  All over the car were these long streaks that look like scratches, but they came right out with the Clay. My theory; leftover adhesive from the protective plastic sheeting they put on cars when they are shipped.   After Waxing (little GLI being jelly in the back)   whoaAll in all I'm very happy in the results. Lets see how long it lasts. But wait... What is this?  drat it. Is that something under the paint? Now what? Go to the dealer and have them fix it? Also I can not get the inside of the windshield clean... I've been using Stoners aerosol and I tried paper towels and microfiber. Nothing but streaks and little fibers from the towels stuck to the glass. Any advice??
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Nov 11, 2013 23:00
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shoophobo posted:Results time. That car looks fantastic! Great job! For cleaning the inside of the windshield: http://www.autogeek.net/glass-master-pro.html As for the Defect: Yes, go to the Dealer ASAP, that is a serious issue that can cause rust and paint peel real fast.
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Nov 11, 2013 23:04
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PhoenixWing posted:Tried it on the hatch. Wow, I thought my suggestion would work fairly ok, but holy poo poo that's beyond what I expected. That microfiber kit is amazing though, it's insane how much correction it can do with little danger to the paint.
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Nov 11, 2013 23:47
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Any tips for keeping the engine bay clean? Or is it just Simple Green and rags and effort?
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Nov 12, 2013 02:15
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FogHelmut posted:Any tips for keeping the engine bay clean? Or is it just Simple Green and rags and effort? Cold engine + Scrubbing Bubbles foam spray. Let it sit for about 15 mins working it's magic, then hose off with "shower" mode on a hose. Take it for a spin to heat up, and then you're good. I wouldn't spray/wet the alternator/battery.
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Nov 12, 2013 13:51
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ratbert90 posted:That car looks fantastic! Great job! Thanks! I think it's the best looking small car out there right now. I picked up an Invisible Glass branded Glass Master today. Works great! I thought it was just some as seen on TV Gimmick. Went to the dealer today, the service manager took some pictures and said I had to wait for the next time the Mazda District Manager was in town (about 2 weeks). Apparently he will decide if it's covered. 
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Nov 13, 2013 01:27
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BoyBlunder posted:Cold engine + Scrubbing Bubbles foam spray. Scrubbing bubbles is decent alternative, but it should be noted that it does leave a bit of armor all esque shine to the rubber and plastic in the bay. Not as bad, but certainly not matte. For anyone that's a Griot's fan they've got one of their 15% off sales going (code: EMABXB) and free shipping over $125. It's good through 11/14.
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Nov 13, 2013 05:41
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UK goons, Euro Car Parts have a weekend sale thing on, and for £25 (reduced from £48), they'll sell you a Meguiar's kit containing this: - Gold Class Car Wash 473ml - Gold Class Quick Detailer 295ml - Meguiars Clay Bar 25g - Ultimate Compound Polish 295ml - Gold Class Carnauba Plus Wax 177ml - 2 x Microfibre Cloths - 2 x Soft Foam Applicator Pads http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-cleaning-accessories/exterior-cleaning/car-gift-packs/?549776251&0&cc5_598 They have other similar deals also. They have these kinds of things with a different bent to them on a very regular basis, but this particular one ends tomorrow night.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:00
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Last weekend I applied the SONAX Polymer Net Shield to my 2011 WRX. I really didn't do a ton of surface prep because I was crunched for time, but the paint was fairly clean. It may have had some leftover bits of Meguiars Ultimate Wax. So, I expect the results to be even better if you can do a proper surface prep. That said, it went on super easy. You do about a 2' section at a time. You either spray directly on the car or on a foam pad, spread it, and then immediately buff out. It's a little tacky in application, but it's not hard to remove at all. Well, we had our first snow this week. It was enough snow that they started salting the roads so I drove to work a few days in salt spray. The most immediate thing I noticed was my car was less white than others around it. Less was sticking to the car. Today it was in the 60s and unfortunately I didn't have time to wash the car. I did have the time though to hose the thing down. The beading is insane on this. Beyond that though all the salt simply rinsed off with a garden hose. It was incredible. I haven't done a full inspection in the sun yet, but from what I've been able to see so far, it really looks like the car was just washed. I felt the leading edge of the hood, where most of the debris would have been built up, and it came back slick as if I just finished detailing it. We'll see if the durability claims are as good as most people say, but I think we have a winner here. It seems like I'll be able to keep my car mostly clean during the winter just by hitting up the coin op pressure wash spray once a week. Here's a video I found on youtube that shows the beading. While it's not my video nor my car, it is, coincidentally enough, my exact car in the exact color. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvd0cT8ubeM
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Nov 17, 2013 07:39
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The car that refuses to be washed.  That video is kinda blowing my mind a bit.
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Nov 17, 2013 08:54
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That's pretty amazing. Do you use that totally in leu of sealant?
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Nov 17, 2013 18:45
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So my Porter Cable and Meguiars DA correction system arrived today. Gonna go at it Friday and hopefully wake up early Saturday to do Cars & Coffee. Anyone have a link or advice on how to properly tape down the various gaps/molding/handles to prevent wax and polish from getting in there?
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Nov 26, 2013 04:28
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Chinatown posted:So my Porter Cable and Meguiars DA correction system arrived today. Gonna go at it Friday and hopefully wake up early Saturday to do Cars & Coffee. Use painter's tape (the blue masking tape) along the edge of every non-paint part. When you get close to a 'V' with the tape, fill up the space between the legs of the V with little bits of tape. That's a bit hard to imagine, I guess. Play it safe and double the tape width on spots where you might move the PC a bit too far. Good luck! ETA: If you are going to drink coffee while detailing your car, make sure to keep your cup far away from the car. Polish can fling around even if you're careful ETA2: From your post history, I can't tell if you are going to clay your car before you polish it. You should definitely do that. Also, since you will be putting a lot of effort into polishing your car, you should follow the polish with a sealant before you wax it. Sealant lasts many months, whereas wax last maybe one or two. Don't cheap out on your BMW. TATPants fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 07:51
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Mike Phillips has a video on taping. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKFdlAFgio4
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Nov 26, 2013 08:07
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That autogeek online store is great. I used the code FORUMSNOVEMBER for 20% off. I guess it keeps changing. I picked up a Concours 900 polisher from a store here in Australia then ordered everything else from the US. As an example Megs Ultimate Compound on autogeek was $10, at the local store here $29. Down under tax  Ended up getting: Megs UC Megs UP ONR 6x lake pads DP poli-coat Collinite 845 DP glass polish Plus a wool wash mit, a heap of mf towels and a little brush. Will post the results when I'm done!
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Nov 26, 2013 13:31
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The valve cover and some other aluminum parts (side drafts, etc) in the engine bay of my 2002 are a little pitted either from age or someone using simple green. Any recommendations on getting rid of it that doesn't involve polishing? I've seen steel wool recommended, but I thought I'd ask some fellow detail nerds before I dug in 
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Dec 1, 2013 05:24
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Not sure if this is the best thread to ask in, but winter is upon us, and I'm wondering if anyone has some tips for preventing or removing windshield ice. My car is unfortunately parked outside on the street so I am at the full mercy of nature, so far I'm planning on putting on a coat or 2 of nanoskin glass sealant, and picking up a bottle of aerosol de-icer. Any other things I can do apart from installing remote start? product recommendations for de-icer/wiper fluid additive?
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Dec 1, 2013 06:54
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Full Circle posted:Not sure if this is the best thread to ask in, but winter is upon us, and I'm wondering if anyone has some tips for preventing or removing windshield ice. Defrost setting on your heater. It's the only way not to scratch the poo poo out of your windshield or not eat your paint.
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Dec 1, 2013 07:57
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Those anti-frost sheets you put over the glass and then remove in the morning can work, but if you get any moisture behind them when putting them on, that freezes, and you're back to square one.
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Dec 1, 2013 09:26
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We sell this poo poo at work that's supposed to prevent ice from forming / make it easier for it to slide right off in the morning. No idea if it actually works or not, and here in TN* we don't really get enough ice to bother with using it. *At least in the West and Middle portions...
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Dec 1, 2013 19:00
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It's not really weather or not it works, it's how damaging can it be to your paint/rubber/glass of your car.
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Dec 1, 2013 22:26
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