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Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

You only calculated 1 year's worth of interest in your spreadsheet.

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FrankeeFrankFrank
Apr 21, 2005

Say word son.

Guinness posted:

You only calculated 1 year's worth of interest in your spreadsheet.


Thanks... I'm an idiot.

gwrtheyrn
Oct 21, 2010

AYYYE DEEEEE DUBBALYOO DA-NYAAAAAH!

FrankeeFrankFrank posted:

Need some math help....

If you get .9% interest on a 72 month loan, a $300/mo payment should be around $21019.50 initial principal, compounded monthly.

Also the interest is probably compounded monthly

bite the wax
Sep 10, 2011
Proposed Budget: $12-$17k
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Mid sedan
How will you be using the car?: commute, occasional long trips (200+ miles)
Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? - Not high on the list
What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, some power, comfort, cost of ownership

Need a car. Been looking at the typical mid-sized sedans. My 'car friend's advice to me was to look at the models / trims that have the V6 engines, even if they are older and have more miles on them in my price range the engines and transmissions in these cars are generally more reliable... is this B.S.? I test drove a Ford Fusion -- one with the normal engine and an SEL with the V6 and the V6 felt way more responsive to me.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

bite the wax posted:

Proposed Budget: $12-$17k
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Mid sedan
How will you be using the car?: commute, occasional long trips (200+ miles)
Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? - Not high on the list
What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, some power, comfort, cost of ownership

Need a car. Been looking at the typical mid-sized sedans. My 'car friend's advice to me was to look at the models / trims that have the V6 engines, even if they are older and have more miles on them in my price range the engines and transmissions in these cars are generally more reliable... is this B.S.? I test drove a Ford Fusion -- one with the normal engine and an SEL with the V6 and the V6 felt way more responsive to me.

You should be able to get into a Chrysler 200 or Dodge Avenger with the V6 easily for that amount, and they have plenty of power.

DholmbladRU
May 4, 2006
Proposed Budget: ~10000
New or Used: used
Body Style: 2, 4, hatchback!
I am looking for a replacement to my G37. Currently the cost of ownership is super high; monthly payment, insurance, gas, tax. All of those combined push me well over $700/month. I would like to replace this vehicle with something that is both comfortable(6'2 male), gas efficient, maybe a little bit of fun to drive.

I have test driven toyotas, honda civics and similar. I am not opposed to a vehicle with higher miles 60-80k but are there things that I should look for? Probably need specific maintenance done when you get higher miles(belts, clutch, etc).

My G37s tires will need to be replaced in less than 1000 miles and I would like to get a new vehicle before that mark comes.

Old Man Pants
Nov 22, 2010

Strippers are people too!

Internet Explorer posted:


I guess I've already made up my mind, but I am looking for second opinions.

As a Colorado goon, you are going to be hosed in the snow in the FRS/BRZ. That isn't to say that a RWD car can't be driven in the snow, because they can with a bit of expertise, but if you have never driven in snow before and are making your first attempt in a lightweight RWD car, you better make sure you have GAP insurance, because you are going to wreck it. A rwd car is impractical here in CO. The only people I know who own a RWD car here also own a truck, or another winter vehicle. You'll see when you get here, but there is a reason subarus are a very popular car here.

Edit: I drive a mini cooper, and have lived here all my life and still have a few scary moments in the winter here and there.

Old Man Pants fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Nov 15, 2013

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

CatchrNdRy posted:

After negotiating on email, I am about to meet with the dealer on a 2014 Mazda6 mid level touring (fake leather,camera, big tires) for about 26,800 out the door with an s-plan price. They are still trying to upsell me packages (the current price stands at 27,465) but I think I can get rid of them.

Sanity/buyers remorse check time. What comparably could I be getting for a few thousand less than that price? Must...resist...urge to be practical and go for a 2013/4 low trim Camry.... or maybe I should?

Don't buy a loving Camry. I have ridden in 2 newer ones (2008 and like 2011 or 12) and it was the most loving miserable car on the god drat planet. It's reliable so you don't have to worry about any excitement ever creeping into your life, but it is miserable.

Computer Serf
May 14, 2005
Buglord
edit

Computer Serf fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Dec 8, 2013

CatchrNdRy
Mar 15, 2005

Receiver of the Rye.

Phone posted:

Don't buy a loving Camry. I have ridden in 2 newer ones (2008 and like 2011 or 12) and it was the most loving miserable car on the god drat planet. It's reliable so you don't have to worry about any excitement ever creeping into your life, but it is miserable.

I've owned 2 Camrys for years, there are a reliable but unloving wife. I got tired of it.

So I bought a 2014 Mazda6 touring OTD 27.1 using Ford's S-Plan (the dealer pretty much didn't give a poo poo about it).

I learned that truecar low prices are not accurate. Every other dealer selling at under invoice would not sell if you declined their 1-2k worth of bullshit paint protectants. I managed to get that stuff and lifetime oil included (but paid 199 for the tint). I don't think I got screwed, but I didn't get a steal? So all the low curve truecar prices, I assume did not account for the bullshit extras.

So, I declined the aftermarket warranties and $500 KARR alarm. Only to find the KARR alarm is there, they just loving deactivated it. What the hell is up with that, I guess tampering with it would be illegal and difficult?

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Nov 15, 2013

Sole Survivor
Aug 21, 2009

Old Man Pants posted:

As a Colorado goon, you are going to be hosed in the snow in the FRS/BRZ. That isn't to say that a RWD car can't be driven in the snow, because they can with a bit of expertise, but if you have never driven in snow before and are making your first attempt in a lightweight RWD car, you better make sure you have GAP insurance, because you are going to wreck it. A rwd car is impractical here in CO. The only people I know who own a RWD car here also own a truck, or another winter vehicle. You'll see when you get here, but there is a reason subarus are a very popular car here.

Edit: I drive a mini cooper, and have lived here all my life and still have a few scary moments in the winter here and there.

A RWD car with winter tires will be better than a FWD or AWD car on all seasons in the snow, so he'll be fine assuming he buys winters.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CatchrNdRy posted:

So, I declined the aftermarket warranties and $500 KARR alarm. Only to find the KARR alarm is there, they just loving deactivated it. What the hell is up with that, I guess tampering with it would be illegal and difficult?

Illegal? You bought this car right? That means it's your car. It was delivered with this equipment in it, right? That means it belongs to you.

More importantly, that "alarm" is a piece of junk. They are installed for the convenience of the dealer, so that all employees with a fob can open any car on the lot. When you decline to have it activated (good job) they remove the module that allows the dealer fobs to open the doors and install a "deactivation module". If you bought it, they would have installed a different module and given you matching fobs.

It does little to nothing more than the factory system.

If anything, you should be telling them to REMOVE THIS AFTERMARKET POS FROM MY CAR COMPLETELY. Not just deactivate it.

Abysswalker
Apr 25, 2013

I know what type of car I want, a fast car. Money is little obstacle for a playboy such as myself, but I am not sure I trust google on what is the fastest car, but the fine folks of AI know I'm sure. So...what's the fastest car I can get?

DARPA Dad
Dec 9, 2008

Abysswalker posted:

I know what type of car I want, a fast car. Money is little obstacle for a playboy such as myself, but I am not sure I trust google on what is the fastest car, but the fine folks of AI know I'm sure. So...what's the fastest car I can get?

prob a buick

Slo-Tek
Jun 8, 2001

WINDOWS 98 BEAT HIS FRIEND WITH A SHOVEL
Proposed Budget: 10-20k cash, 30ish if there is something so awesome I'd be willing to finance part of it.
New or Used: New or Used
Body Style: 4 door
How will you be using the car?: This is where I need some advice. To-and-from work driving and grocery-getting but under 200 miles a week, with a couple 2000+ mile cross-country trips per year.
So, right now we have a 2004 Prius and a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee that we use for sport and utility never. The Jeep has a lot of problems, and is noisy, expensive to feed, and getting on toward time to replace. We have a family of 4 (sometimes 5) with kids in school. When I asked some while back I thought I would need a 3-row so as to be able to haul children+friends to things. However, been keeping track, and the number of times I've needed more than 5 seats (and thus two cars) is very small. So, rather than replace the jeep with a minivan-ish-thing, I'm thinking maybe another small car and just taking two cars on the rare more-than-5-seats occasion.
What aspects are most important to you?
Reliability, comfort, cost of ownership, ability to keep 2 phones and 2 tablets charging. I wouldn't mind if it were fun to drive, or was cool, or good looking, but that isn't the overwhelming concern.

Basically we really like our 2nd generation trim-package zero prius. Had a rental prius the other week, and didn't care for what they had done with the center console, nowhere near enough charging ports, and didn't find any use/usability for the bluetooth integration. Is that because it was a low-trim rental, or are they just not very good for that?

So, what am I looking at for a family-mover driving appliance that will be an improvement over my 2nd generation prius? Ford Focus, whatever the hyundai and kia small 4-doors are? Another prius?

Slo-Tek fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Nov 16, 2013

DARPA Dad
Dec 9, 2008


prob a buick

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Nov 16, 2013

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Hmong Moms posted:

I know what type of car I want, a fast car. Money is little obstacle for a playboy such as myself, but I am not sure I trust google on what is the fastest car, but the fine folks of AI know I'm sure. So...what's the fastest car I can get?

Depends on if you want fastest in a straight line or fastest through corners or fastest up a hill. Also how fat are you?

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

Slo-Tek posted:

Proposed Budget: 10-20k cash, 30ish if there is something so awesome I'd be willing to finance part of it.
New or Used: New or Used
Body Style: 4 door
How will you be using the car?: This is where I need some advice. To-and-from work driving and grocery-getting but under 200 miles a week, with a couple 2000+ mile cross-country trips per year.
So, right now we have a 2004 Prius and a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee that we use for sport and utility never. The Jeep has a lot of problems, and is noisy, expensive to feed, and getting on toward time to replace. We have a family of 4 (sometimes 5) with kids in school. When I asked some while back I thought I would need a 3-row so as to be able to haul children+friends to things. However, been keeping track, and the number of times I've needed more than 5 seats (and thus two cars) is very small. So, rather than replace the jeep with a minivan-ish-thing, I'm thinking maybe another small car and just taking two cars on the rare more-than-5-seats occasion.
What aspects are most important to you?
Reliability, comfort, cost of ownership, ability to keep 2 phones and 2 tablets charging. I wouldn't mind if it were fun to drive, or was cool, or good looking, but that isn't the overwhelming concern.

Basically we really like our 2nd generation trim-package zero prius. Had a rental prius the other week, and didn't care for what they had done with the center console, nowhere near enough charging ports, and didn't find any use/usability for the bluetooth integration. Is that because it was a low-trim rental, or are they just not very good for that?

So, what am I looking at for a family-mover driving appliance that will be an improvement over my 2nd generation prius? Ford Focus, whatever the hyundai and kia small 4-doors are? Another prius?

You can get 2A USB cigarette adapters, some cars do have 2A USB ports but I don't think you should base your decision on that alone. Given that you seem to be indifferent to every other aspect of the driving experience you might as well go and test drive a bunch of poo poo. A leftover 2013 Ford Focus seems like it would be all right if you can get a very low price on it.

lampey
Mar 27, 2012

If you want a fast car that is affordable look at 1998-2001 pontiac firebird formula/ trans am. They have an ls1, the same engine in a corvette.

H13
Nov 30, 2005

Fun Shoe
Hmmm...

I don't NEED a new car. I'm still real happy with my Subaru.

But I've just noticed that if I traded it in, I could pretty comfortably afford a 2007 BMW M3.

This is obviously going to be a very very bad idea. There is something very big and obvious that I'm missing here. What am I missing?

Space Gopher
Jul 31, 2006

BLITHERING IDIOT AND HARDCORE DURIAN APOLOGIST. LET ME TELL YOU WHY THIS SHIT DON'T STINK EVEN THOUGH WE ALL KNOW IT DOES BECAUSE I'M SUPER CULTURED.

Hammer Floyd posted:

Hmmm...

I don't NEED a new car. I'm still real happy with my Subaru.

But I've just noticed that if I traded it in, I could pretty comfortably afford a 2007 BMW M3.

This is obviously going to be a very very bad idea. There is something very big and obvious that I'm missing here. What am I missing?

When you say "comfortably afford," are you talking about out-the-door price, or total cost of ownership? Maintenance, consumables, and repairs on an M3 (especially those big scheduled items that start to come up at 5-6 years of ownership) will eat you alive if you're used to care-and-feeding costs on a Subaru. And that's if the M3 has been scrupulously maintained for its entire existence.

Old Man Pants
Nov 22, 2010

Strippers are people too!

Sole Survivor posted:

A RWD car with winter tires will be better than a FWD or AWD car on all seasons in the snow, so he'll be fine assuming he buys winters.

As someone who has been driving in Colorado winters for 15+ years, and drove a 300ZX as my daily driver with snow tires previously, I respectfully disagree. If you have never driven on a slick surface before in your life, a RWD lightweight (brand new) car is a stupid way to start, even if you have studded snows. Its easy to say from the internet, but until you've woken up to 13 inches of snow when it was sunny the day before as a fun surprise, you really don't know anything about driving in CO. If you put your studded snows on in the first week of October and don't take them off until april, you'll probably be ok. you'll also be a stupid jackass for driving a low, lightweight, rwd car in CO as your first snowy winter experience, and will probably crash your car.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin

Hammer Floyd posted:

Hmmm...

I don't NEED a new car. I'm still real happy with my Subaru.

But I've just noticed that if I traded it in, I could pretty comfortably afford a 2007 BMW M3.

This is obviously going to be a very very bad idea. There is something very big and obvious that I'm missing here. What am I missing?

I'm pretty sure there's no such thing as a 2007 M3 in the US, 2006 was the last model year for the E46, 2007 was skipped and the E9x came out in late 2007 as a MY 2008.

So...uh, assuming you're talking about a 2008 E9x, you should do it. The M3 is the most reliable BMW you can buy. A large part of this is because it's the last BMW to use the old brute force overbuild-an-engine-to-rev-to-the-moon approach to performance. There is no direct injection, no high pressure fuel pump, no Valvetronic, no turbocharging, the front brakes are tiny single pistons, peak HP arrives at 8300rpm, it's basically like a German Honda. Buy a sedan with the manual transmission.

Reggie Died
Mar 24, 2004
I've re-read the previous posts for leases, and was wondering if any Canadian goons knew how similar it would be up north?

Basically, my 17 year old truck with 350kms is back at the shop (alternator sheared off from front engine block, wtf?), and while it will almost always be cheaper to keep it and make these small repairs, the need for reliability is starting to outweigh my love for the truck.

I'm looking at two options, and was hoping for some advice and feed back as it's all very overwhelming.

A) Spend 18-22k on a lightly used truck with low km's (2011 or newer, under 25kms, probably a somewhat loaded Ranger or lower trim F150).

B) Have my boss lease me a company vehicle, splitting the cost 50/50, and paying my portion with pre-tax dollars. Also, payments would come out of my bonus's, not salary, which would help with monthly cash flow (My payment structure is somewhat bizarre, and can go into further detail if needed, but I'm 50k/year salary, plus 2.5% bonus of gross revue of each job I manage, paid upon completion. This results in small monthly bonuses, 2-3k bonuses every few months, and usually a sizable bonus at least once a year). I would also have priority to buy back the truck at end of term, with the benefit of having only paid 50% of the monthly payments, thus only half of the depreciation.

Uncle Jam
Aug 20, 2005

Perfect
How much is bonus taxed in Canada and can you pre-tax draw from bonuses?

I'm in a similar situation going to lease, and that way I can sell my current car and use that money to pay off my student loans. The big risk I suppose in doing a company supported lease is that it goes away if the job goes away, but then again repeatedly taking in a huge mileage truck is pretty awful.

Reggie Died
Mar 24, 2004

Uncle Jam posted:

How much is bonus taxed in Canada and can you pre-tax draw from bonuses?

I'm in a similar situation going to lease, and that way I can sell my current car and use that money to pay off my student loans. The big risk I suppose in doing a company supported lease is that it goes away if the job goes away, but then again repeatedly taking in a huge mileage truck is pretty awful.

Someone can correct me as I'm not an accountant, but pretty sure bonus's in Canada are counted as any other income, so the with holdings will vary based on tax bracket. For instance, my last bonus of $4200 came to ~ $2,300 after taxes. The lease payment would be deducted before the bonus was assigned. For instance; there was a 3 month window between my last two bonsues, so under this plan, my pre-tax bonus would have been $3,300.

- 600/month lease split 50/50 = $300/month
- 300 x 3 months = $900

I somewhat see your *risk* as a benefit, to be honest. If the job were to go away, I would be free and clear of any obligations, compared to financing a vehicle personally. I could then asses my financial situation and see how much vehicle I could afford at that point in my life. I would, of course, be out of pocket whatever lease payments I made.

I think I need to figure out how much $300 pre-tax is worth post-tax, and asses the situation from there.

Throatwarbler
Nov 17, 2008

by vyelkin
Well I think in theory if your company leases you a vehicle at least a portion of it(the part not being used for company business) is a taxable benefit, but it's been years since I've looked into the specifics so you should google it. Regardless if your boss is willing to half-lease you a truck I don't really see a downside to it, so have fun going all Dukes of Hazzard everywhere in your company leased F350 King Ranch!

Uncle Jam
Aug 20, 2005

Perfect

Reggie Died posted:

Someone can correct me as I'm not an accountant, but pretty sure bonus's in Canada are counted as any other income, so the with holdings will vary based on tax bracket. For instance, my last bonus of $4200 came to ~ $2,300 after taxes. The lease payment would be deducted before the bonus was assigned. For instance; there was a 3 month window between my last two bonsues, so under this plan, my pre-tax bonus would have been $3,300.

- 600/month lease split 50/50 = $300/month
- 300 x 3 months = $900

I somewhat see your *risk* as a benefit, to be honest. If the job were to go away, I would be free and clear of any obligations, compared to financing a vehicle personally. I could then asses my financial situation and see how much vehicle I could afford at that point in my life. I would, of course, be out of pocket whatever lease payments I made.

I think I need to figure out how much $300 pre-tax is worth post-tax, and asses the situation from there.

This is a bit different to how bonuses are taxed in the US, but it seems like you got it figured out pretty well. The only other thing I would check is the upfront payment (if there is any even) and the mileage cap compared against the mileage you usually do. You probably already have but you didn't mention it yet.

Boxman
Sep 27, 2004

Big fan of :frog:


I have no idea if this is the place to ask, but - I'm strongly considering a used Focus. My budget allows me to get a lightly used one at the Titanium trim. I like the leather, I like the butt warmers...but I have heard catastrophic things about MyFord Touch. Is it as bad as all that? Dropping to a lower trim would save cash, and it could be worth it if the system really does suck that hard.

Safety Meetings
Feb 4, 2008

My Instagram is blowin' up 24/7.
i'm wondering if anybody can suggest a good car for me? I live in the frozen wasteland of northern alberta so a 4x4 is a must. A subaru would probably be ok but it might be a safer bet to get an suv or a truck.

In theory I can afford up to 15k without financing, but the less the better. I'll be using this vehicle a lot for work which will involve me driving over lovely roads in the snow or mud and I plan on bagging the poo poo out of the car. I do not care about looks or luxury at all for this vehicle, just something reliable thats good in the snow. Ideally i'd like to spend 3 or 4k on a beater but i'm not sure how much I can skimp on the vehicle price before i'm just gonna be buying a piece of unreliable crap.

shame on an IGA
Apr 8, 2005

I'm 28, own my home outright, and have about $400/mo left over after bills and paycheck deductions. I am anticipating a one-time $2800 windfall later this month and a $1400 tax refund in 2014. I currently drive a 1998 V6 Honda Accord with 225,000 miles, a salvage title, frame damage, failing transmission, failing CV axle, aged timing belt, and badly worn suspension.

I have found a 2004 Infiniti G35 for sale by a dealership I trust, listed at $5300. Would it be financially responsible to place an offer on that car, and is $1000 on a private party sale of my Accord overly optimistic?

Safety Meetings
Feb 4, 2008

My Instagram is blowin' up 24/7.
I can't comment on the g35, but I think $1000 is pretty reasonable for the honda provided it drives fine now.

RabbitMage
Nov 20, 2008
Still enjoying my Taurus (to the extent one can enjoy a Taurus), but my roommate is now in the market for his first car.

Proposed Budget: $5000 and under
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Hatchback or wagon
How will you be using the car?: Occasional driving, weekend trips around the area with friends, and occasional trips back home (from hilly northern CA to Los Angeles area).
What aspects are most important to you? MPG, cost of maintenance.

He asked my opinion on early 2000s Golfs, and I told him I thought the cost of repairs/maintenance might be a little harsh (and I could be wrong). What direction should I steer him in?

It also occurs to me that due to living in a remote area with a low population, or local used market is kind of fucky. Would it be smarter for him to wait until a trip home to LA to find something?

Wax Dynasty
Jan 1, 2013

This postseason, I've really enjoyed bringing back the three-inning save.


Hell Gem
Proposed Budget: Trying to keep it under 25k
New or Used: Prefer new, but would consider used
Body Style: Compact sedan, maybe midsize. 4-door vs 2-door doesn't matter
How will you be using the car? Mostly commuting, possibly using on occasional longer drives. I am looking for a more fully loaded car, something that at least has heated seats and a back-up camera.
What aspects are most important to you? Fuel efficiency, fun to drive, safety and reliability/cost of ownership.

Based on reading most of this thread, I've looked at quite a few 2013/4 compact cars including the Ford Focus, Chevy Cruz, Subaru Impreza, Dodge Dart, Mazda3 and the Hyundai Elantra as well as the Prius. Of those, the 2014 Mazda3 stands out, with the Elantra and Dart close behind. I've been driving a Toyota Corolla for 18 years now and I don't want another one (which is also why I'd like something a little more exciting to drive). I've yet to try the Sentra or the Civic, but are there other cars I should be considering, especially used ones?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

RabbitMage posted:

He asked my opinion on early 2000s Golfs, and I told him I thought the cost of repairs/maintenance might be a little harsh (and I could be wrong). What direction should I steer him in?

Early 2000s Golfs are of the Mark IV vintage, and that line had a lot of problems - mostly annoying electrical gremlins, and bad window regulators, but poo poo you don't want to deal with. They were mostly fixed by 2004 or 2005 or so. Avoid in particular the VR6 engined MkIV golfs.

I owned a 2005 and with the exception of a single faulty door sensor, it never had a problem. And I'm a Noted VW Apologist.

Xguard86
Nov 22, 2004

"You don't understand his pain. Everywhere he goes he sees women working, wearing pants, speaking in gatherings, voting. Surely they will burn in the white hot flames of Hell"
ford fiesta? They're pretty well optioned and can be an engaging ride with a stick to spin that turbo.

My GF just bought an elantra after owning a 10 year old Camry and she loves it. However, shes not into cars so I don't know if it would be all that fun.

rockcity
Jan 16, 2004

Wax Dynasty posted:

Proposed Budget: Trying to keep it under 25k
New or Used: Prefer new, but would consider used
Body Style: Compact sedan, maybe midsize. 4-door vs 2-door doesn't matter
How will you be using the car? Mostly commuting, possibly using on occasional longer drives. I am looking for a more fully loaded car, something that at least has heated seats and a back-up camera.
What aspects are most important to you? Fuel efficiency, fun to drive, safety and reliability/cost of ownership.

Based on reading most of this thread, I've looked at quite a few 2013/4 compact cars including the Ford Focus, Chevy Cruz, Subaru Impreza, Dodge Dart, Mazda3 and the Hyundai Elantra as well as the Prius. Of those, the 2014 Mazda3 stands out, with the Elantra and Dart close behind. I've been driving a Toyota Corolla for 18 years now and I don't want another one (which is also why I'd like something a little more exciting to drive). I've yet to try the Sentra or the Civic, but are there other cars I should be considering, especially used ones?

I just bought a 2014 Mazda3 hatch and I'm liking it a lot so far. I went with the S GT model so it's about as loaded as a Mazda can get. The only thing I've been a little disappointed with is the media system still has some kinks and it crashes every now and then. It's loaded on an SD card though so I'm sure there will be an update to fix that issue in the near future. More than anything I'm enjoying the huge jump in fuel costs compared to my EX35.

Boxman
Sep 27, 2004

Big fan of :frog:


Those words about the 3's system are a little sad to hear - I'm considering the same car. How crashy are we talking? Things seemed nice and snappy when I did my test drive, but that was all of 5 minutes of use.

Also, does the thing interface with iphones/ipods in any nice way, or do you just rock an Aux cable? I forgot to check when I was at the dealership.

Aberdaber
Aug 4, 2007
what
I test drove a new Mazda 3 this weekend and synced my iphone up with bluetooth. The syncing was very easy, and you can choose to sync only the phone, only audio or both which I thought was nice. Spotify also worked fine and could be controlled through the steering wheel (hitting next song made Spotify skip to the next song).

However, when I held the skip button to fast forward through a song Spotify freaked out and got stuck in fast forward mode. At first I thought it was the Mazda's fault, but when I had my phone unsynced and connected to my car through an aux cable it was still fast forwarding. A force close and reopen of the app fixed it.

I loved the drive though, it was surprisingly quick (both the 2.0 and 2.5 engines) and the ride was very comfortable.

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CatchrNdRy
Mar 15, 2005

Receiver of the Rye.

Motronic posted:

Illegal? You bought this car right? That means it's your car. It was delivered with this equipment in it, right? That means it belongs to you.

More importantly, that "alarm" is a piece of junk. They are installed for the convenience of the dealer, so that all employees with a fob can open any car on the lot. When you decline to have it activated (good job) they remove the module that allows the dealer fobs to open the doors and install a "deactivation module". If you bought it, they would have installed a different module and given you matching fobs.

It does little to nothing more than the factory system.

If anything, you should be telling them to REMOVE THIS AFTERMARKET POS FROM MY CAR COMPLETELY. Not just deactivate it.

Is it draining any power from the cars system? The only thing worthwhile about it, is the blinking lights that say "THIS IS AN ALARM". But I figure that will just be an indicator to a good thief that this is a crappy KARR system.

I saw salesguy quietly and gently install the chip while talking to me, after the other finance guy told him I declined the alarm. its a lovely move, but I guess everyone does it.


rockcity posted:

I just bought a 2014 Mazda3 hatch and I'm liking it a lot so far. I went with the S GT model so it's about as loaded as a Mazda can get. The only thing I've been a little disappointed with is the media system still has some kinks and it crashes every now and then. It's loaded on an SD card though so I'm sure there will be an update to fix that issue in the near future. More than anything I'm enjoying the huge jump in fuel costs compared to my EX35.

Like my 2014 mazda6, the head unit is extremely disappointing. For ipods and other media, it transfers a portion of song data into RAM, so it takes a good 5-6 minutes if you have a full ipod. I have trouble shuffling and playing from playlists as well. Its just easier to use the aux cable. I see on the mazda forums people are demanding an update and Mazda has been promising it for months with no hard date in sight.

CatchrNdRy fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Nov 18, 2013

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