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Yep, makes it a nice cheap easy way to have lots of spares kickin around too.
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Nov 13, 2013 08:30
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Yeah, that works if you have an auto trans, if you have a man trans you need one from the front of an early v8 zj as I recall. The later v8 zjs use a much shorter shaft that is only about 0.6" longer than a mantrans XJ front, so I am running one as a front shaft since I couldn't find one for cheap enough when my last one seied up at the slip joint. Also, a largeish pipe wrench makes a great steel rim bead unbender and doesn't even require completely removing the tire from the rim, just break the bead on the side that is bent. I discovered this last weekend when I decided to fix the bent wheel that has been leaking air for 2 years, my front right tire has held air for a week for the first time ever. (I dented the poo poo out of that wheel the first time I ever took the MJ offroad in 2011 while doing a practice run for my club's just-for-fun offroad race.)
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Nov 13, 2013 12:25
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I have 33's and 3.73s with a manual transmission and it's not bad. I have to stay in 4th when there's any incline on the highway. It is one reason I stuck with 33's and didn't go bigger though. I can't imagine it being as manageable with larger tires. e: Also, Duratracs have a bit of a whine to them at speed - it's my first tire with any kind of lumpy rubber on it so I wasn't sure what to expect. It's not bad.
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Nov 13, 2013 17:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:I have 33's and 3.73s with a manual transmission and it's not bad. I have to stay in 4th when there's any incline on the highway. It is one reason I stuck with 33's and didn't go bigger though. I can't imagine it being as manageable with larger tires.
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Nov 13, 2013 18:07
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In response to my tire suggestion request a few pages back... What's the usual width tire people go with on stock 15" XJ wheels? 235? Looks like Duratracs are a little spendy ($161) for my taste. That's about the cost I paid for my Volvo's summer tires (Michelin Pilot Super Sports). Is there a decent cheaper option for say... under ~$450 a set? I assume these suck? I'm have no plans to modify the jeep. It's pretty much an around town beater that smells like my dog's rear end in a top hat.
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Nov 13, 2013 18:52
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goobernoodles posted:In response to my tire suggestion request a few pages back... Stock was 225/75-15, you could probably put 235/70 on without much issue. There's a multitude of tires on tirerack in the 225 size for well under $450 / set - I'd, honestly, just pick whichever ones you like that have decent reviews on there.
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Nov 13, 2013 19:10
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I don't see the point in looking for an LSD diff. I'd rather have an open diff so I can install a lunch box locker in it. LSD is useless on anything but pavement. If you're open and in a situation where you need a locker, one foot on the gas and one on the brake. Works 10x better than an LSD.
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Nov 13, 2013 19:29
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jonathan posted:I don't see the point in looking for an LSD diff. I'd rather have an open diff so I can install a lunch box locker in it. I have a front locker, which gives me the clacking / chirping in turns fun already with it unpowered on the street (ie, in 2WD). If the rear was always locked, I think it would be ... more irritating. Right? Edit: And truthfully, cost isn't really an issue. It's not NO issue, but I'm perfectly willing to spend $900 on an ECTED if it will give me what I want and not decrease reliability. So an LSD or lunchbox locker as a cheaper option isn't attractive BECAUSE of cost, though if it will do most of what I need (ie, work acceptably offroad) and not offer any real downside, it would be. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 19:42
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Astonishing Wang posted:I have 33's and 3.73s with a manual transmission and it's not bad. I have to stay in 4th when there's any incline on the highway. It is one reason I stuck with 33's and didn't go bigger though. I can't imagine it being as manageable with larger tires. I've been running 33" Duratracs as well on my manual JK for the last 6 months (285/70R17s) and they've been just fine, even on the highway. No complaints.
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Nov 13, 2013 20:23
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Rasczak posted:I've been running 33" Duratracs as well on my manual JK for the last 6 months (285/70R17s) and they've been just fine, even on the highway. No complaints. A knobby tire will throw more poo poo up against the underside of my Jeep right? Since getting the new tires installed there have been 4 or 5 times where I hear and feel a heavy BANG against the tub, right at my feet on the driver side. The first couple of times I pulled over to see what hit me or if something came loose. I assume after thinking about it, that the rubber kicks up more debris from the grooves and spaces between the lugs. Does anyone else have this happen much?
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Nov 13, 2013 22:28
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jonathan posted:I don't see the point in looking for an LSD diff. I'd rather have an open diff so I can install a lunch box locker in it. They're decent on dirt too, clearly nothing to write home about on rocks but I'm not gonna complain since I came out over $100 ahead when I put mine in. I have used the one foot on the gas and one on the brake method, it got interesting when I needed to use the clutch too. Feet on the clutch and brake, one hand on the wheel, the other hand reaching down to hit the throttle (good thing I have long arms  ) I need to install a hand throttle one of these days.
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Nov 14, 2013 00:48
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Astonishing Wang posted:A knobby tire will throw more poo poo up against the underside of my Jeep right? Since getting the new tires installed there have been 4 or 5 times where I hear and feel a heavy BANG against the tub, right at my feet on the driver side. The first couple of times I pulled over to see what hit me or if something came loose. I assume after thinking about it, that the rubber kicks up more debris from the grooves and spaces between the lugs. Does anyone else have this happen much? I haven't had any real issues with banging on the underside, but judging from the spray when I go through even a little mud they have a massive potential for throwing poo poo up.
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Nov 14, 2013 01:44
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Rasczak posted:I haven't had any real issues with banging on the underside, but judging from the spray when I go through even a little mud they have a massive potential for throwing poo poo up. I get massive spray when I drive my TJ with Duratracs through mud. Clumpy mud ends up hitting the fender flares and wrapping around onto the hood. Little rocks will get stuck in the siping or voids between lugs and come out on the highway.
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Nov 14, 2013 01:47
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Astonishing Wang posted:A knobby tire will throw more poo poo up against the underside of my Jeep right? Since getting the new tires installed there have been 4 or 5 times where I hear and feel a heavy BANG against the tub, right at my feet on the driver side. The first couple of times I pulled over to see what hit me or if something came loose. I assume after thinking about it, that the rubber kicks up more debris from the grooves and spaces between the lugs. Does anyone else have this happen much? Mine pick up small rocks that stay wedged in till I get up some speed. They do make a bit of noise depending on what they hit.
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Nov 14, 2013 02:47
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kastein posted:They're decent on dirt too, clearly nothing to write home about on rocks but I'm not gonna complain since I came out over $100 ahead when I put mine in. E-brake = rear locker. I forgot that not everyone rocks an auto like me. I prefer them in the rocks or mud, but I would like a manual for snow and sand.
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Nov 14, 2013 04:16
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EightBit posted:I get massive spray when I drive my TJ with Duratracs through mud. Clumpy mud ends up hitting the fender flares and wrapping around onto the hood. Little rocks will get stuck in the siping or voids between lugs and come out on the highway. Yeah, I ended up just leaving the backyard water hose over by the driveway because of all the mud that gets stuck around the fender flares and all over the doors (and my fenders aren't trimmed). I guess the point is I really like my Duratracs.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:56
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kastein posted:I have used the one foot on the gas and one on the brake method, it got interesting when I needed to use the clutch too. Feet on the clutch and brake, one hand on the wheel, the other hand reaching down to hit the throttle (good thing I have long arms Glad I'm not the only one that has done this. Motor won't idle? Time for a fun ride home stuck halfway under the dash!
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Nov 14, 2013 16:01
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I can almost heel-toe the gas and brake for tricky sections, but I've also found that I usually don't need to even hit the gas; the 4.0 can idle up some impressive stuff in 4lo, and if it doesn't climb it usually can hold while you get off the brake and onto the gas.
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Nov 14, 2013 16:30
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Here's how much Duratracs spray if anyone was interested:
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Nov 15, 2013 04:17
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Happy Friday
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Nov 15, 2013 17:08
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Ok, so I'm trying to figure out Slip Yoke Eliminators. I know I need to move to a CV driveshaft, and I'm planning to do this concurrently with my 8.8 swap. The part number for this that I've found online is the Rubicon Express RE1807, and it looks like you're supposed to run it with the Rubicon Express RE1898 driveshaft. Is this correct? Do I need other parts to complete this? Is this the only driveshaft I can use this with? I know people here mentioned being able to use the stock FRONT driveshaft with this kit - is this possible? The vehicle is a 2000 XJ, 4.0, 4x4, automatic. I believe it's an NP231 transfer case. It will by the time this is installed have a Ford 8.8 rear end, which is what I need to get the driveshaft matched up to.
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Nov 17, 2013 06:22
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Go with the style of SYE that gives you a CV yoke instead of a flange, then you can probably run a 4.0/auto/4x4 front driveshaft as a rear one. No guarantees though, I forget how much an 8.8 swap changes the pinion snout length. You can afford to have the jeep down for a few days right? My best suggestion is to do the SYE, start the 8.8 swap, get the pinion angle within a few degrees but not welded to the perches yet, just sitting on the springs with the ubolts mostly tight and the perches in place, then try your front shaft in the back and see how it looks. If it comes out too short, try a longer front shaft, if it comes out too long, try a shorter one. V8 ZJs are your donors for both longer and shorter, some years are longer and some are shorter (I forget which is which, bring a tape measure to the junkyard) and you want the slip joint to be near the middle of its travel range at ride height, with the pinion pointed about 1 degree below parallel with the driveshaft to account for axle wrap under acceleration. The adapter flange you need to make a 1310 (XJ size) driveshaft ujoint fit the 8.8 pinion flange is a 2-2-1379, you can find them online for $25 or so, or get one out of various early year explorers and some other ford vehicles (rangers in particular) at the junkyard. The only difference from the 1330 that explorers use stock to a 1310 is the width of the ujoint cross, it's 1/8 to 1/4" different iirc. Measure or compare visually, on a 1310 the cap seals are right up to the center of the cross, on a 1330 there's like 1/8 of round metal shaft on the center of the cross before it gets to the bearing cap seal. You really, really want a few tools before going to the yard for driveshaft hunting: 1. 6 point 5/16 box wrench 2. 5/16 or 8mm gearwrench 3. 5/16 socket, 6 point, 1/4 drive, with a ratchet to go with it. Using a 12 point socket to attempt to break driveshaft and ujoint strap bolts free on a jeep is like playing russian roulette with your sanity. Every once in a while one will round off, usually when it's on your vehicle, or the only compatible donor in the junkyard, and it's the last bolt before you get the drat thing out, and it's 10 minutes before the yard closes.
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Nov 17, 2013 06:32
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Thank you! Any suggestions on who makes that type of SYE? My guesswork so far hasn't led me to one. In thanks, here's a picture of the vehicle in question, in Moab: 
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Nov 17, 2013 06:57
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Dumb question: My replacement radiator came with automatic transmission cooler fittings on the bottom. Do I need to plug those? My mind says no, but my heart says I don't want to douse my driveway with more coolant.
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Nov 17, 2013 21:41
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Chef Bromden posted:Dumb question: My replacement radiator came with automatic transmission cooler fittings on the bottom. Do I need to plug those? My mind says no, but my heart says I don't want to douse my driveway with more coolant. I just came in from replacing the radiator and trans cooler lines in my '01 4.0/AW4 XJ. My world now smells of ATF (fresh, at least).
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Nov 17, 2013 21:56
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Could you adapt it for use as an oil cooler?
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Nov 17, 2013 21:59
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They just go to a sealed tube inside which is surrounded externally by coolant; it'll be fine. Wouldn't hurt to cap them off though, as suggested. Keep moisture and debris out while keeping the threads protected in case you ever do want to hook some lines up.
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Nov 17, 2013 22:24
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Remind me, there was a good video last week on what the inside of a Jeep radiator looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A65613TaWYw
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Nov 17, 2013 22:45
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You don't need to, but as already suggested, it's a good idea to keep crap out of there. I know people who use them as a first-pass power steering cooler before their actual power steering cooler. It won't handle much pressure, that's the only thing you need to take into account if you use it as an oil cooler. So you won't be able to simply pass oil from the filter base through it before routing to a remote filter or something.
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Nov 17, 2013 22:59
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Went to the junkyard, found 4.10s for the front. Progress!
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Nov 18, 2013 02:20
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What was the donor? Did you get the whole axle or just the ring/pinion?
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Nov 18, 2013 02:28
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I have heat! This is the little bastard that caused me 2 days of driving with windows down in 20 degree weather. 
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Nov 18, 2013 09:04
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Sigh. Of course they won't fit.
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 09:14
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Krakkles posted:Sigh. Of course they won't fit. Let me guess... a YJ axle, or high pinion gearset going into a low pinion housing/vise versa. One of these is fixable (get the correct housing, would only rcommend if you got high pinion gears) but a YJ axle into an XJ is too much work to be worth it. Also you will need a differential carrier for 3.73 and up gear ratios to put 4.10s in an axle that was 3.55 or below, which can be grabbed from any ZJ with 3.73s (most v8s.) ... and a master gear install kit, new pinion oil baffle, inch pound dial torque wrench, foot pound torque wrench good to 250 foot pounds iirc, a good mic, a dial indicator, a deadblow mallet, a 3/16 punch, good gear marking paste, and preferably a set of setup bearings.
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Nov 18, 2013 12:15
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kastein posted:Let me guess... a YJ axle, or high pinion gearset going into a low pinion housing/vise versa. When you say get the correct housing - you mean like the pumpkin? I didn't think that was something you could replace without replacing the whole axle (or cutting and welding it in, but at that point, what's the difference, right?).
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Nov 18, 2013 18:58
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Yeah, sorry, I meant the whole housing. Don't try cutting and welding tubes unless you have a really good reason (building a custom axle) - regearing isn't a good reason. Ring/Pinion/Carrier from a high pinion axle SHOULD fit a high pinion XJ axle. You will still need the full setup kit, all the tools I mentioned, etc and either an entire day to learn how to do it yourself or ~1/2 day for a pro to do it, but they should fit. Why isn't it going together? If you're just trying to drop the junkyard parts right into your axle housing, yeah, no, that's not oging to work and even if they did go in right, you'd probably burn the gears up in a hurry. Gears have to be set up using 4 sets of shim packs to set the carrier bearing preload (2 sets, one for each carrier bearing, these also determine backlash) pinion depth and preload. Pinion depth and backlash are inter-related specs that both have to be right on the money, within thousandths of an inch, to have the gears last more than a few thousand miles and not either bind up when driving or shatter the first time they're shock loaded offroad. That being said, if I can learn to do it, you probably can, and as far as I know Sandbagger is still running the used 3.55s I threw in his front dana 30 this spring. Oh, also - setting up used gears can be more challenging than setting up new ones. If you want it to run quiet instead of whining a bit on the highway you need to exactly reproduce the specs it was set up with in the donor axle, which is best done by taking a tooth mesh pattern with gear setup marking paste while they are still in the original axle, measuring backlash, then setting it up exactly the same way in the recipient housing.
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Nov 18, 2013 22:05
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kastein posted:Ring/Pinion/Carrier from a high pinion axle SHOULD fit a high pinion XJ axle. You will still need the full setup kit, all the tools I mentioned, etc and either an entire day to learn how to do it yourself or ~1/2 day for a pro to do it, but they should fit. Why isn't it going together? I do have a pro helping me with this, so I'm not worried about that part, but it sounds like the only realistic option at this point is to just find/buy some LP 4.10s. I don't think swapping the front axle is really justified, even if they are a little stronger/have a bit more clearance. Thank you! I appreciate the info. Edit: Maybe it's not a complete waste - I think I'd need a new carrier for 4.10s anyway, and I can't think of a reason that one wouldn't fit. $58 carrier, but still 
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 22:28
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Ehhh, grabbing a high pinion axle is probably actually worth it. You're socal, right? Hit up one of the Ecology yards on half off day, walk out with a high pinion axle complete for $50 or whatever. Keep the axleshafts as trail spares, regear it on the bench (way way easier than regearing under the jeep), swap it in, sell your original axle on craigslist for $100.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:00
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Anyone ever dealt with the frameside track bar mount on a cherokee being a loosey goosey? I can't find any information for the life of me. One of the lower bolts has broken loose and I can't get any sort of socket over top of it. I'm ASSUMING it's some sort of weldnut up there thats broken off?
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Nov 19, 2013 08:59
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 21:41 |
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So I've had this car up for sale for a while... Somebody shows up Sunday morning with this and wants to trade:  I rebuilt the carb and tossed some plugs in it to get it running proper and put it on Craigslist. Yesterday I traded the 'Vette for this:  I think I did OK on the swap. Still, I feel bad for only having the 'Vette for 5 days. I never really got to drive it  Anybody wanna buy a '95 YJ? I think the CJ will be my daily driver now.
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Nov 22, 2013 19:40
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