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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUUWE/ Amazon is putting the GG6 3rd gen on Lightning Deal in about 12H 15m from now.
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Dec 2, 2013 02:45
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Scott808 posted:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUUWE/ Since this is coming up in about 2 hours and I've really wanted a DA polisher, is the Griot's worth snagging versus a Porter Cable? How about backing plates, is the 6" too big or would grabbing a 5" plate be good with some 5.5" pads? I've already got everything else as far as polishes and waxes, but you can only go so far by hand. edit: said gently caress it, jumped on it. Red87 fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 13:25
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Alright, got the cheap part... Now for all of the expensive bits. $90 isn't too bad. Camelcamelcamel is showing that the PC 7424XP has only gotten down to $93 in the past (January 2011).
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Dec 2, 2013 15:45
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Phone posted:Alright, got the cheap part... Now for all of the expensive bits. Yeah, that was really too good to pass up, and it doesn't look the Griot's drops that low very often if at all according to price history, at least for the 3rd gen. So, for paint correction, I drive a 2011 Ford Fusion Sport that has frequently been driven at 120MPH+ on the autobahns, as well as has seen automatic car washes (Before I knew how terrible they are). The worst of the paint is just decently swirled, but I have a few marks which I'm guessing are from rocks impacting the surface at high speed, though I can't really feel them on the paint but ScratchX couldn't get out either, so they don't feel deep. What would be my best way to tackle it with the DA when it arrives? Which pads should I get, as I'm going to do the buy 6 deal. I'm grabbing a 5 inch backing plate so I'm looking at 5.5" LC CCS pads. Also, if I wanted to do the windshield, as that also has a bit of scratching most likely from impacts, what kind of tools would I be looking at for that?
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Dec 2, 2013 18:51
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I was looking at the OP again (making a Christmas list...) and I saw the mention of a foam gun. I've got a pressure washer that can do both water and soap mixtures, but I've never had good results with it. It'll remove most of the dirt and grime, but there's still fine particulate matter that needs a mitt or rag to remove. Have people managed to get good results using a pressure washer, or do you still have to go over it with a mitt?
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Dec 2, 2013 19:10
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So far I'm thinking about picking up the following... Pads: a 6 pack of Lake Country pads CSS pads getting 2 yellows, 1 white, 2 blues, 1 red (or gold) Link Compound: Meguiar's 105 Link Polish: Menzerna SF 4500 Link Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock Link Am I missing anything?
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Dec 2, 2013 20:44
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I personally like Buff And Shine pads - http://www.autoality.com/store/pc/Buff-and-Shine-5-5-Foam-Pads-c299.htm Lots of experienced detailers say that you can easily skip every other pad in the BNS lineup since the 10ppi difference per color doesn't really make a difference in reality. Don't forget a brush - you don't need a fancy "foam pad" brush. Any stiff bristle brush can work fine - I use a denture brush. 4" pads/plate is also handy for hitting smaller areas. QuarkMartial posted:I was looking at the OP again (making a Christmas list...) and I saw the mention of a foam gun. I've got a pressure washer that can do both water and soap mixtures, but I've never had good results with it. It'll remove most of the dirt and grime, but there's still fine particulate matter that needs a mitt or rag to remove. Have people managed to get good results using a pressure washer, or do you still have to go over it with a mitt? I don't think I've ever seen any serious detailer/enthusiast use a pressure washer as a completely touchless wash. The value in the pressure washer, in my opinion, is to use it as a pre rinse to get the grit off the car. Less grit, less marring in the paint.
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Dec 2, 2013 21:59
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Is the porter cable dual action buffer really worth the cost? I have my own garage now and am tired of applying wax or sealant by hand, but I don't see a reason to pony up for the Porter Cable $120 buffer over a really cheap random orbit like this. Also, what pads should I get to apply something like Meguiar's M21 sealant?
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Dec 3, 2013 17:14
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Weinertron posted:Is the porter cable dual action buffer really worth the cost? I have my own garage now and am tired of applying wax or sealant by hand, but I don't see a reason to pony up for the Porter Cable $120 buffer over a really cheap random orbit like this. I've had a Porter Cable random orbit buffer since the mid-90s. It's never seen any love, and it's seen lots and lots of use. It is ugly, but has never missed a beat. It's one of the things that I'd say is truly worth the extra money.
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Dec 3, 2013 17:17
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meatpimp posted:I've had a Porter Cable random orbit buffer since the mid-90s. It's never seen any love, and it's seen lots and lots of use. It is ugly, but has never missed a beat. It's one of the things that I'd say is truly worth the extra money. OK. You guys may have convinced me it's worth spending 4x the money to buy the right thing the first time. Is the 7424XP the one to get, or the one that's marketed as a random orbit sander with polishing attachment, the 7346SP? My next question is if something like the Nanoskin Autoscrub can really take the place of clay? Claying is a pain in the rear end and if this thing will really replace it I'd love to save some time.
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Dec 3, 2013 17:34
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Weinertron posted:Is the porter cable dual action buffer really worth the cost? I have my own garage now and am tired of applying wax or sealant by hand, but I don't see a reason to pony up for the Porter Cable $120 buffer over a really cheap random orbit like this. Also, what pads should I get to apply something like Meguiar's M21 sealant? I bought a cheap one like that, it broke after two uses.
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Dec 3, 2013 21:20
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Weinertron posted:
I can't comment on that pad but here is another option for faster claying. http://www.autogeek.net/speedy-surface-prep-towel.html
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Dec 4, 2013 03:45
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What are people using for buffer pad cleaning?
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Dec 5, 2013 18:21
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Phone posted:What are people using for buffer pad cleaning? Clean bucket of water + centrifugal force is all you need. If you really want to go all out you can get this: http://www.autogeek.net/grit-guard-universal-pad-washer.html But it's basically a grit guard + bucket of water in a fancy package.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:25
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Weinertron posted:OK. You guys may have convinced me it's worth spending 4x the money to buy the right thing the first time. Is the 7424XP the one to get, or the one that's marketed as a random orbit sander with polishing attachment, the 7346SP? Yes, that Nanoskin Autoscrub is actually really REALLY good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEWl3R6TPLo The 7424XP is the one to get.
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Dec 5, 2013 18:26
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Red87 posted:
I am glad you learned the errors of your ways.  quote:The worst of the paint is just decently swirled, but I have a few marks which I'm guessing are from rocks impacting the surface at high speed, though I can't really feel them on the paint but ScratchX couldn't get out either, so they don't feel deep. What would be my best way to tackle it with the DA when it arrives? Start with just buffing and polishing. If that doesn't work, move on to wet sanding with 4000 grit, then 3000, then 2000, then 1000. If those don't work, a respray may be in order. quote:Which pads should I get, as I'm going to do the buy 6 deal. I'm grabbing a 5 inch backing plate so I'm looking at 5.5" LC CCS pads. quote:Also, if I wanted to do the windshield, as that also has a bit of scratching most likely from impacts, what kind of tools would I be looking at for that? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/58269-removal-glass-scratches-carpro-griots-da.html Specifically: The general consensus is this: - CeriGlass Polish - Lake County Glass Polishing Pads - Painter tape - A few used (clean) blankets you don't want or use anymore. FlapYoJacks fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Dec 5, 2013 |
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Dec 5, 2013 18:35
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I know I'm drinking the Kool Aid but holy lol at that $135 bucket. I just have a few more things to track down and my full kit should be good to go. Going to use my co-worker's car as my testbed for everything. Dawn wash Clay bar Meg's M105 cutting compound Menzerna SF2500 polish Menzerna SF4500 final polish Menzerna Power Lock sealant And then I'll let him put wax on it a day later if he wants Gonna make a black NB Miata shine.
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Dec 5, 2013 19:07
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Crosspostin' this because this took like 6 hours (probably more actually). Got my Porter Cable 7424XP and Meguiars microfiber correction system. I took my clear bra off after using a Bissel Steam Shot, detail spray, claybar, and so much elbow grease. As you can see, the paint difference was really noticible.   After:   
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Dec 6, 2013 06:46
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Tell me about winter washing! Basically I am buying a new vehicle and selling the old one. So I am looking to do a full detail on both (wash, clay, 501/601 (if needed on the new vehicle) and top with 845). Here in Vancouver the sun is out, but the weather might be dropping below 0 tomorrow. I'll probably only be doing the current car this weekend, but would a quick Iron-x and a wash be do-able if its hovering close to 0? I'll probably tackle in the interior until the sun is hitting the driveway, then do everything that requires water and pull it into the garage to dry (I'll have space heaters on and a compressor for the crevices)
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Dec 6, 2013 21:25
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If anybody is watching right now (~8pm EST), Amazon is going to have Meguiar's G55107 DA Power System Kit on a Lightning Deal in an hour. Link here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rd_p=1673797982
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Dec 7, 2013 01:50
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I know their liquids are considered some of the best, but is that drill attachment buffer any good? Someone earlier in the thread said a simple one would put a lot of swirls in the paint, but that one says it has "dual action" and the pad "moves in two directions at once".
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Dec 7, 2013 02:45
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meatpimp posted:If anybody is watching right now (~8pm EST), Amazon is going to have Meguiar's G55107 DA Power System Kit on a Lightning Deal in an hour. Link here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rd_p=1673797982 Nope. Deal starts in 6 minutes. Cage posted:I know their liquids are considered some of the best, but is that drill attachment buffer any good? Someone earlier in the thread said a simple one would put a lot of swirls in the paint, but that one says it has "dual action" and the pad "moves in two directions at once". Dual Action means that the pad moves in 2 directions at the same time, similar to how the Earth rotates on its axis while spinning around the Sun. AKA "Orbital" Video review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELjl7ygvce8 Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Dec 7, 2013 |
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Dec 7, 2013 02:54
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That looks like it would be significantly faster to polish by hand.
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Dec 7, 2013 03:00
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Phone posted:That looks like it would be significantly faster to polish by hand.
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Dec 7, 2013 03:18
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If you need a DA you could just pick up the PC7424XP since Amazon is running a $20 off $100 select PC tools promo - http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/
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Dec 7, 2013 03:25
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My new-to-me 2000 Aero has been keyed everywhere. Yay for former-teacher owned cars. It doesn't really look like it made it farther than the clearcoat, but when the car isn't filthy, it is rather unsightly. Is there anything that is amateur friendly and fairly inexpensive I can use to try to fill and recover the original paint? I'd post pictures, but my circa-2006 potato doesn't really do well, even in decent light.
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Dec 7, 2013 03:25
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West SAAB Story posted:My new-to-me 2000 Aero has been keyed everywhere. Yay for former-teacher owned cars. It doesn't really look like it made it farther than the clearcoat, but when the car isn't filthy, it is rather unsightly. Is there anything that is amateur friendly and fairly inexpensive I can use to try to fill and recover the original paint? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/43535-key-repair-step-step-procedure.html I guess you could also try one of those self leveling hand applied clear coats (RestorFX and the like).
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Dec 7, 2013 03:32
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Phone posted:That looks like it would be significantly faster to polish by hand. Holy crap, it does... I just took a cursory look at it and thought that it had a cheap DA buffer included, not some kind of crappy drill add-on that will surely end up breaking causing you to scratch the paint you're trying to polish. 
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Dec 7, 2013 11:36
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MOLD/MILDEW CHAT ITT We have a spare car that we don't drive much (91 Corolla), so it spends most of it's time in the garage. The garage is a drive-under and it faces the north, so the driveway and the garage never really get direct sun and it's always kinda...moist. As recently as August, there was no problem with the interior on the Corolla, but after spending the fall closed up in the garage, it seems that a shitload of mildew decided that the inside of my goddamn car was a great place to grow. It is pretty much everywhere. Now we need to actually drive this car (selling our nice car...very sad, but also a story for the Misc. Chat thread and not this one) and it's covered in nasty mold/mildew. Where do I start with cleaning it? I can just wipe down all of the vinyl and plastics with Lysol wipes or something, but the seats and carpet are more troublesome. The car never got wet inside, just sat inside a sorta damp garage for a few months, so I would think that the mildew is almost entirely on the surface of the carpet and seats. This makes me hesitant to use anything like an extractor or a carpet cleaner because that might drive the spores into the carpet and make a bigger problem. Can I just vacuum this poo poo up with my shop-vac out in the driveway so I don't launch the spores into the house or back into the car? Ugh...this is such a frustrating, disappointing problem to have.
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Dec 7, 2013 20:09
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bandman posted:MOLD/MILDEW CHAT ITT Any chance of drying it out first? Sticking a heater in there or something? That way you can start with surface wiping and vacuuming. Once you're done with that I would still want to use a carpet cleaner with an upholstery attachment on absolutely everything I could get to (mold is no joke....you don't want to be breathing that crap). And, next time (if there is one) a sealed up car that will be sitting for months at a time is the perfect candidate for a bucket of damp rid or similar.
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Dec 7, 2013 20:13
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I'd go even further and remove the seats, both to clean them thoroughly and let them air dry and to give you better access to every carpet surface inside the car. Usually isn't too difficult, just a few bolts and maybe an electrical connector if it has power seats.
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Dec 7, 2013 21:28
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Fucknag posted:I'd go even further and remove the seats, That's always a good plan, but often met with a lot of resistance from the less technically inclined (even though it's easy and straightforward). So yes.....do that if you can. It will make your life easier rather than harder.
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Dec 7, 2013 23:16
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Especially on a car as simple as an older Corolla. I'd lift up the carpet too - you won't be able to completely remove it without removing an annoying amount of other stuff, but you should be able to check underneath and see if any dampness is lurking there.
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Dec 7, 2013 23:44
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Might be a bit OT for this thread, but I have the worst trouble with fogging windows in the cold. I've tried "anti-fog wipes" and I've gone and cleaned the poo poo out of them with a normal glass cleaner, but the problem still exists.
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Dec 12, 2013 16:40
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AlternateAccount posted:Might be a bit OT for this thread, but I have the worst trouble with fogging windows in the cold. I've tried "anti-fog wipes" and I've gone and cleaned the poo poo out of them with a normal glass cleaner, but the problem still exists. I've had good experience with the Rain-X liquid. You apply it, buff it with a white cotton towel, and it just magically works*. * I haven't had to use this in years. This experience is circa '98-'03 in SFBA. It worked great, then.
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Dec 12, 2013 18:04
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AlternateAccount posted:Might be a bit OT for this thread, but I have the worst trouble with fogging windows in the cold. I've tried "anti-fog wipes" and I've gone and cleaned the poo poo out of them with a normal glass cleaner, but the problem still exists. I polished my windscreen inside and out with Autoglym glass polish, and now it doesn't appreciably fog up - need to redo it every two or so week though. This is good, since my windscreen blower was poo poo in 1973, and it hasn't gotten better.
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Dec 12, 2013 19:48
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Amazon is currently having a cyber monday deal on a kit with an orbital for the next 3 hrs if anyone is looking, from $209.00 down to $124.99: http://www.amazon.com/Top-Holiday-D...&pf_rd_i=507846 Thinking of grabbing it myself, so I have two and can have someone else help and cut the time in half.
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Dec 16, 2013 19:27
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Quixotic1 posted:Amazon is currently having a cyber monday deal on a kit with an orbital for the next 3 hrs if anyone is looking, from $209.00 down to $124.99: Can you link the item? Can't find it on that page.
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Dec 16, 2013 20:42
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Hollis Brown posted:Can you link the item? Can't find it on that page. Weird it doesn't appear under "all". I had to click "Sort by Category" and switch it to "Automotive & Motorcycle" http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XR5KF6...rd_p=1690443362
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Dec 16, 2013 20:56
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Quixotic1 posted:Weird it doesn't appear under "all". I had to click "Sort by Category" and switch it to "Automotive & Motorcycle" Thanks for the link, I've got some thinking/research to do now because porter cable is 20$ off as well. edit: gently caress it just got the lightning deal kit, I don't think the difference in the units is all that important and it comes with a bunch of crap to try out. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 21:11
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