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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005
Haynes / Gregory's manuals are the poo poo. As in a steaming pile. On the rare occasion they actually have a picture of the right make / model it can be useful as a rough reference. Most of the time it's a case of "Uh...no."


Factory manuals can either be really good or "WTF is all that equipment AGHAGHAGAHGAA!!!!". The service manual for my Niva falls about half way in between. The user manual and service manual have different procedures for the same task. The service manual also has neat tools I've never seen like a hand dynamometer which I surmise is primarily for measuring energy output while whacking it.

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11BulletCatcher
Feb 27, 2010

This Cold Ass Honkey Ain't No Jive Turkey, Ya Dig?
I'm going to hell. I am supposed to be looking for a boat that is MORE fuel efficient than my Impala, but I have stumbled across a 1970 Pontiac Bonneville with a freshly rebuilt 455 with highway gears, I'm going to look at the car tomorrow, but the impound lot that owns it said everything mechanical is kosher, but body rust is severe in some key locations. According to them, rust has all but completely destroyed some of the floor pans and rocker panels. I was able to see it from outside the lot, and I can see surface rust on the top (doesn't look worse than whats on my Impala) and a sizeable rust hole on the trunk door, though not all the way through. Thing is, if the rust is controlled/fixable, and everything else is perfect working order, than their asking price of 1300 is a steal. And I know the price is low not because of mechanical problems, but the fact that they have been trying to sell it for MONTHS. Selling a car that gets 12 MPG mixed driving in Sarasota Fl is a tough sell, after all.

If I don't buy it, they're going to drop the engine in a 94 Camaro, I think. But they want to sell it wholesale, so I'm gonna look at it, see what kind of shape the body is really in, and see if it's worth the money, or if it's a rust trap.

My question to you guys is, just how much of a pain in the rear end and wallet is body work as it relates to rust? I think the engine alone is worth the effort, but I also haven't had the pleasure of watching a car flake away around me. (YET)

11BulletCatcher
Feb 27, 2010

This Cold Ass Honkey Ain't No Jive Turkey, Ya Dig?
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/4115926516.html

The Car in Question:





(rust in back artfully hidden by that car mirror.)

11BulletCatcher fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 13, 2013

Root Bear
Nov 15, 2004

DARKEST SKETCH

QuarkMartial posted:

Can I just unload a little bit?

'01 Mercury Sable, with the DOHC engine:

gently caress you Ford for putting the belt tensioner in the tightest of spaces. We had to unbolt and shift a/c lines, remove the coolant tank, passenger headlight, and it was still a pain in the rear end to remove.
gently caress you again for putting the a/c compressor on the bottom of the engine. It'll be terrible to remove it in the spring (though I'm hoping to limp through winter with my wife using the defroster as little as possible).
gently caress you thrice on general principle for also putting the alternator at the rear and basically underside of the engine (though it does not need replacing at this time). Also the water pump is way on the opposite side of the engine :wtc:
gently caress you a fourth time - couldn't you have made the car six inches wider? loving come one, the bay is so tight that if you drop a ratchet, socket, bolt, or even a nut it won't fall to the ground. It just falls right there and you can pick it up it's that tight.

A hearty "Why are you so damned useless" goes out to my peeps at Haynes repair manuals who had no instructions for removing the tensioner at all, no pictures of the DOHC engine, and lacked a mother loving belt routing diagram for the DOHC engine. OHV engine? Sure, they had side pictures, diagrams, and so on. The other engine style, the DOHC? Not poo poo for it. Didn't make me feel good that the first thing they cover for repairs on the DOHC engine are the timing chains. I get the impression that the Haynes manuals aren't really the greatest things, but they should include basic stuff like that since they are (or claim to be) based on a teardown and rebuild of the engine. (And before one asks, it did advertise and have limited information on the DOHC engine. I didn't mistakenly buy one that said "Except DOHC engines" or something similar.)


I understand your frustration. I've had countless "THIS BOOK HAS NO ANSWERS!!!:argh:" moments. No matter how detailed they claim to be, they always seem to leave out an important detail or two. That said, I also agree with "gently caress you Ford"



Power Steering Pressure Hose Replacement:
  1. Disconnect pressure line fitting at steering rack and drain fluid.
  2. Disconnect pressure line fitting at power steering pump.
  3. Remove hose from vehicle.
  4. Reverse procedure to install. Fill and bleed power steering system. Do Not Overfill.
  5. Attempt steps 1-4 on a 1990 Lincoln Continental 3.8L
  6. :suicide:



In unrelated news, I've just ordered a complete clutch kit and slave cylinder for my car. It decided to give out just in time for the first snowfall. Lucky me! :)

Root Bear fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Dec 13, 2013

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

11BulletCatcher posted:

My question to you guys is, just how much of a pain in the rear end and wallet is body work as it relates to rust? I think the engine alone is worth the effort, but I also haven't had the pleasure of watching a car flake away around me.

Rust is a bitch and a half. If you have the time, patience and the tools, I would say its one of the most rewarding jobs in car repair. Look at Moecows (I think this is the right user) thread for inspiration.

Otherwise your going to go broke with the repairs. Even Moecow farmed out some of the work and it wasn't cheap.

Don't buy on emotion, be realistic and decide if your ready to outlay 4x what the car is worth.

11BulletCatcher
Feb 27, 2010

This Cold Ass Honkey Ain't No Jive Turkey, Ya Dig?

BrokenKnucklez posted:

Rust is a bitch and a half. If you have the time, patience and the tools, I would say its one of the most rewarding jobs in car repair. Look at Moecows (I think this is the right user) thread for inspiration.

Otherwise your going to go broke with the repairs. Even Moecow farmed out some of the work and it wasn't cheap.

Don't buy on emotion, be realistic and decide if your ready to outlay 4x what the car is worth.

To be fair, depending on the rust, 4x its value is probably only 4 grand in the long run. For my purposes, I wouldn't be restoring, so I'd fix up the immediately pressing spots first, rockers and floor pans. I won't know till I check it out in 7 hours. If it's crap, though, it's crap. What I've been looking for is either a late 80's Cadillac Brougham, Chevy Caprice or a Town Car/Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/LTD, this just happened to pop up on my radar due to the engine/price combo.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

11BulletCatcher posted:

To be fair, depending on the rust, 4x its value is probably only 4 grand in the long run. For my purposes, I wouldn't be restoring, so I'd fix up the immediately pressing spots first, rockers and floor pans. I won't know till I check it out in 7 hours. If it's crap, though, it's crap. What I've been looking for is either a late 80's Cadillac Brougham, Chevy Caprice or a Town Car/Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/LTD, this just happened to pop up on my radar due to the engine/price combo.

I should have mentioned - 4x what the car would sell for if it was up to snuff. It could easily run into 8k or more.

Edit: Because usually once you uncover one spot, then another spot appears, then another, then another.... well, you get it.

MiNDRiVE
Nov 8, 2012
Broke my front driver side strut. I hate winter.

drukqs
Oct 15, 2010

wank wank you're a pro vaper I'm not wooptiedoo...
Ordered one of these with an MR2 adapter kit...



Have been running a bypass valve blockoff plate and loving it but I'm chickening out. :(

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...

drukqs posted:

Ordered one of these with an MR2 adapter kit...



Have been running a bypass valve blockoff plate and loving it but I'm chickening out. :(

So your engine runs rich and stalls?

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

DJ Commie posted:

So your engine runs rich and stalls?

Not if he relocates the MAF to after the BOV. :eng101:

drukqs
Oct 15, 2010

wank wank you're a pro vaper I'm not wooptiedoo...

DJ Commie posted:

So your engine runs rich and stalls?

I have a Gen 3 JDM 3SGTE

recirc not needed

but yeah I know what you're talking about... My 93 with a USDM motor ran pig rich with an SSQV... really brutal. Worst purchase I've ever made. Going back to the stock BPV was night and day.

drukqs fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Dec 13, 2013

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


Washed off all the salt and put on my new winter tires :woop: Hopefully this storm they are threatening will dump snow so I can try them out.

drukqs
Oct 15, 2010

wank wank you're a pro vaper I'm not wooptiedoo...

Galler posted:

Washed off all the salt and put on my new winter tires :woop: Hopefully this storm they are threatening will dump snow so I can try them out.

I like a modification whose ideal/best result is calm, sedate, controlled driving at reasonable speeds :laffo::laffo:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

drukqs posted:

I like a modification whose ideal/best result is calm, sedate, controlled driving at reasonable speeds :laffo::laffo:

Actually no, the ideal/best result is much faster, more aggressive donuts and drifting of corners previously impassable. :getin:

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


drukqs posted:

I like a modification whose ideal/best result is calm, sedate, controlled driving at reasonable speeds :laffo::laffo:

All seasons on snow are for calm, sedate, controlled driving at reasonable speeds.

Good winters are so you can do full speed.

drukqs
Oct 15, 2010

wank wank you're a pro vaper I'm not wooptiedoo...
I wouldn't know, I'm a Californian who never drives up for ski/snowboard trips.

If it snowed in the Bay Area I'm pretty sure my MR2 would just spontaneously combust.

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


Powershift posted:

All seasons on snow are for calm, sedate, controlled driving at reasonable speeds.

Good winters are so you can do full speed.

Yeah this. Once the temps got down to around 20*F even my 109 hp/105 lb-ft engine could produce some wheel spin on dry pavement with the all seasons I had on there. The few patches of parking lot snow I encountered made steering, accelerating, or braking pretty sketchy at anything other than maximum slow. Hopefully these tires fix that and if it starts dumping snow I can go hoon about in the nearby parking lots like kastein mentioned.

11BulletCatcher
Feb 27, 2010

This Cold Ass Honkey Ain't No Jive Turkey, Ya Dig?

BrokenKnucklez posted:

Rust is a bitch and a half. If you have the time, patience and the tools, I would say its one of the most rewarding jobs in car repair. Look at Moecows (I think this is the right user) thread for inspiration.

Otherwise your going to go broke with the repairs. Even Moecow farmed out some of the work and it wasn't cheap.

Don't buy on emotion, be realistic and decide if your ready to outlay 4x what the car is worth.

Update on rust: Driver and passenger floor pans: Non existent. Deep rust on rear passenger quarter panel and one big spot around bumper. No radio. The only way I'm buying that car is at 8-900 bucks. Any more than that isn't worth my time or money.

Super Aggro Crag
Apr 23, 2008




And, of course as always, kill Hitler.


Today she got a bath at the touchless car wash to rinse off some salt. Then I added some stickers for ~10HP total gain. My OCD is going off because the top sticker isn't parallel with the defroster line, even though it's parallel to the sticker below it. Then I stopped by my parents' house and used my pop's air compressor to inflate my winter tires evenly.

Don't paint your wheels in the wind. Tons of over-spray on the front tires, but :effort:...

stevobob
Nov 16, 2008

Alchemy - the study of how to turn LS1's into a 20B. :science:


I replaced my rear right shock. That's both rears done and the ride is so much better. Who would have thought that a proper new shock would make less horrible noises and jarring impacts than old lovely blown ones full of ice? :geno: I also got both front and rear winter wipers from work, AC Delco winter wipers, and they are loving poo poo. Both fronts freeze into a curve and leave the middle 2/3 of their paths untouched. The rear just smears poo poo around and doesn't loving clear anything. I bought one Reflex Ice beam-type from Canadian Tire for the front driver's side and it works much better.

I have front sway bar bushings coming on Tuesday and that should take care of all the noises my car has been making...aside from the horrendous piston slap. This old EJ25 will probably last another 50,000km though, from what I've read.

Endless Mike
Aug 13, 2003



Galler posted:

Yeah this. Once the temps got down to around 20*F even my 109 hp/105 lb-ft engine could produce some wheel spin on dry pavement with the all seasons I had on there. The few patches of parking lot snow I encountered made steering, accelerating, or braking pretty sketchy at anything other than maximum slow. Hopefully these tires fix that and if it starts dumping snow I can go hoon about in the nearby parking lots like kastein mentioned.
My 200hp car can chirp the lovely stock all seasons on dry when it's hot out without any effort. I *really* need to get winter tires. (Thanks Toyota)

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


Inch or two on the ground and pretty loving huge difference. The wheels wouldn't spin unless I deliberately provoked it and I could change direction and stop properly as well. :woop:

Also, controllable handbrake turns in the nearby parking lot :getin:

treizebee
Dec 30, 2011

Stage 3 oil injection

drukqs posted:

Ordered one of these with an MR2 adapter kit...



Have been running a bypass valve blockoff plate and loving it but I'm chickening out. :(

I hope you got it from a reputable source. As I'm sure you know, anything HKS is a prime knock-off target.
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-general-1/928072-spotting-a-fake-hks-ssqv-a-pictorial-guide.html

djhaloeight
Jan 23, 2007

techno mafia.
I threw 150lbs of sand bags in my trunk for winter traction on my '11 Crown Vic LX and put new winter wipers on. Also filled up with ice melter washer fluid and put my rubber winter floormats in. Basically, got the car prepared for the crap Chicago winter it has to deal with for the next 6 months.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

We've had a lot of ice/rain/etc over the past week; the entire car is covered in a sexy salt/mud/rain brine. Including the headlights - they're pretty much opaque. Same with the fogs.

Driving home, I realized I couldn't tell much difference between DRLs, low beams, low beams with fogs, or high beams... in thick fog, no less. DRLs are the turn signal filaments up front, for reference. Usually, flicking on the high beams in fog means OH gently caress I'M BLIND.

Guess it's time for a bath.

treizebee
Dec 30, 2011

Stage 3 oil injection
On the subject of winter, I pressure washed the underside yesterday when it finally got warm enough to not insta-freeze.

I found a chunk of salt the size of two knuckles that was chilling out on a lip inside a wheel well. I stared at it for a bit and pictured a fist-size hole in a years time.
gently caress you Virginia and your overzealous salting. There is more salt on the road then there was snow so far.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I bought a manual transmission for it. The auto is slipping into second, banging into first, and making ugly noises so it is time to start planning in earnest for a swap.

Tranny came out of a 3.9 dakota and is going in a 4.0 cherokee so I need to throw my spare bellhousing on it and maybe swap the shift tower and lever unless I want to go mini truckin'. Haven't decided yet.

Only took 2 hours or so to pull in a snowstorm, not too bad but nowhere near my record time (75 minutes gate to gate to remove a tranny from a fullsize pickup with no wheels lying on the ground.)

Jealous Cow
Apr 4, 2002

by Fluffdaddy

treizebee posted:

On the subject of winter, I pressure washed the underside yesterday when it finally got warm enough to not insta-freeze.

I found a chunk of salt the size of two knuckles that was chilling out on a lip inside a wheel well. I stared at it for a bit and pictured a fist-size hole in a years time.
gently caress you Virginia and your overzealous salting. There is more salt on the road then there was snow so far.

This "freezing rain" and "snow" we got earlier in the week was nothing and the response was insane. I saw dozens of plows around Richmond coating the road in salt and denting peoples cars. Between that and the run on grocery stores whenever there is even a mention of ice or snow makes me think everyone here is retarded.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I prepared my mustang for winter driving. Smaller and narrower wheels to save $ on tires, brand new winter tires, sandbags in the trunk and some winterized wiper blades.

As long as Im easy on the throttle its like Im on rails. At red lights I left FWD cars in the snow dust. The biggest issue so far is other people. They see a RWD car and think Im going to spin out, so theyll move to the center lane where theres more snow and they barely keep it straight going past me.

Actually, since the car is lowered a bit I have to watch out for those big chunks of ice that fall off in the middle of the road. Do they uh, make skid plates for mustangs?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Jealous Cow posted:

This "freezing rain" and "snow" we got earlier in the week was nothing and the response was insane. I saw dozens of plows around Richmond coating the road in salt and denting peoples cars. Between that and the run on grocery stores whenever there is even a mention of ice or snow makes me think everyone here is retarded.

Everyone wants french toast for breakfast when snow is in the forecast :v:

(Bread, milk, eggs)

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Fitted some 6" Pioneer component splits into the front doors of the cruiser, and took the oportunity to wash the inch of muddy silt out of the doors since its last trip to the bottom of a bog hole...

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Jealous Cow posted:

This "freezing rain" and "snow" we got earlier in the week was nothing and the response was insane. I saw dozens of plows around Richmond coating the road in salt and denting peoples cars. Between that and the run on grocery stores whenever there is even a mention of ice or snow makes me think everyone here is retarded.

I saw a bunch of plows tonight.

No loving clue why - the forecast is mid 20s overnight. No precipitation in the forecast, nothing wet on the ground aside from the random pile of snow on a median from last week. :iiam:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

some texas redneck posted:

I saw a bunch of plows tonight.

No loving clue why - the forecast is mid 20s overnight. No precipitation in the forecast, nothing wet on the ground aside from the random pile of snow on a median from last week. :iiam:

We got lost.

DropShadow
Apr 15, 2003

Brought my daughter home from the hospital in it. Most nerve-wracking 1.2 mile drive I've ever taken.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

11BulletCatcher posted:

Update on rust: Driver and passenger floor pans: Non existent. Deep rust on rear passenger quarter panel and one big spot around bumper. No radio. The only way I'm buying that car is at 8-900 bucks. Any more than that isn't worth my time or money.

If you can get the metal to repair the areas of rust, thats not that god awful.

If I recall correctly, these are still body on frame, did you check the chassis mounting points? Sounds like your head is on your shoulders, I would say 800 is fair.

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011
Nothing, absolutely nothing.

I absolutely did not build a cable like this:



Such a cable should not exist, and they probably wouldn't, if retards didn't design CAN-Bus climate/fan-control units to break down every 2 years + 1 day.

I haven't had such a good time, since I replaced a heater on a Volvo 245.

gently caress you Mr. Peugeot.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I am designing one of those soon for work, I will make sure that it breaks down in 2 years + 1 week instead :haw:

But seriously, hopefully it won't break at all.

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro


Washed the salt and assorted crap off of it. And discovered scuffs and deer skin adhered to my rear bumper (a doe ran into the back of my car last weekend). After an hour of cleaning, buffing, etc no signs of damage remain.

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Root Bear
Nov 15, 2004

DARKEST SKETCH
It warmed up to almost 15°F today, so I cleaned it off and started it for the first time in a week.





Not nearly as exciting as it looks. :shepicide:

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