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Splat posted:My RT-N16 is now basically needing to be rebooted every day or else throughput drops to below 1Mbps. Is a ubiquiti generally much more reliable? I deal with a couple setups with an RT-N16 gateway with Unifi APs. That's been quite stable, but there's no reason the RT-N16 should be causing problems unless there is a configure issue or hardware issue. Have you turned off UPnP? The RT-N16 has only 32kB of NVRAM, and UPnP will fill it up and cause instability. Other things can also cause trouble by filling up the NVRAM on the RT-N16, but otherwise, it should be rock solid unless the hardware is failing. You didn't mention which firmware is running on your RT-N16 and what you've tried doing to make it more stable. Have you reset all setting to factory defaults and than manually changed what you need?
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Dec 19, 2013 04:33
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Fly posted:I deal with a couple setups with an RT-N16 gateway with Unifi APs. That's been quite stable, but there's no reason the RT-N16 should be causing problems unless there is a configure issue or hardware issue. Have you turned off UPnP? The RT-N16 has only 32kB of NVRAM, and UPnP will fill it up and cause instability. Other things can also cause trouble by filling up the NVRAM on the RT-N16, but otherwise, it should be rock solid unless the hardware is failing. It's pretty new, but it's had the same issue with stock asus, latest asus, ddwrt, and tomato. All lose throughput after time and i have to reboot. I do have uPnP turned on for my consoles to have an openish NAT, does that really cause those issues?
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Dec 19, 2013 05:07
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Splat posted:It's pretty new, but it's had the same issue with stock asus, latest asus, ddwrt, and tomato. All lose throughput after time and i have to reboot. I do have uPnP turned on for my consoles to have an openish NAT, does that really cause those issues? I've never had problems with it on my RT-N16s but try disabling it and see what happens.
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Dec 20, 2013 03:06
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Explain to me why I'd need a line filter for my VDSL2 line, if there's only a modem connected to the line, and not any other device, like say a phone? Would removing the splitter cause any issues? Would removing it also elevate the SNR on the line, considering I'm removing the LPF that may gently caress with it?
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Dec 20, 2013 20:24
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Anyone here familiar with Mikrotik (I have the RB450G) and doing port trunking for VLANs? Basically, I have the RB450G and a Dell Powerconnect 2724. I have port 4 on the RB450G connected to port 1 on the switch. Switch is configured with VLAN 2 tagged on port 1 and untagged on ports 17/18, these ports are connected to NICs in two ESXi boxes (using them for iSCSI). I have tried everything on the mikrotik box to get VLAN trunking up and working but I am at a loss. Anyone good with this?
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Dec 20, 2013 21:15
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Alright, I'm in sort of an odd position that I'm not entirely sure I'm going to describe properly but here goes. I'm living in a separate building that was leased to me by the nearby hotel /it has no physical address/but for all intents and purposes is part of the hotel. All the utilities, electricity, heat, water, it's all paid by the hotel. The cable even works. Now here's where I'm confused, basically, I'd like to have some form of Internet, but as I understand it the only local provider (Suddenlink) might not be able to provide it since I'm technically part of the hotel, and there's no physical billing address for the house. So, I'm not really sure what to do at this point?
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Dec 20, 2013 22:06
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Hat Thoughts posted:Alright, I'm in sort of an odd position that I'm not entirely sure I'm going to describe properly but here goes. I'm living in a separate building that was leased to me by the nearby hotel /it has no physical address/but for all intents and purposes is part of the hotel. All the utilities, electricity, heat, water, it's all paid by the hotel. The cable even works. Call them? You have to get mail somewhere, give em that address, and tell them you need service for an outbuilding. It can't be the weirdest request they've ever had.
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Dec 20, 2013 22:25
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I have tried everything on the mikrotik box to get VLAN trunking up and working but I am at a loss. Come on over to the MikroTik thread. Post your vlan config and your interfaces and let's see what's going on.
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Dec 21, 2013 01:46
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Rexxed posted:For ethernet you want to get a switch to split one connection into more than one. The physical splitter you linked is not going to work properly with a network connection. You'd want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG...+gigabit+switch If I get the switch you mentioned, what would you guys recommend for a cheap-ish wireless access point? The problem is our house has old plaster walls, with metal lathing; it seems to play hell with all our wireless connections. We moved the couch and tv to the other side of the living room the other week (putting another wall between us and the router upstairs), now it's almost impossible to get a signal. I assume I can take my cable from the upstairs router, run it downstairs to the switch, then just plug all my junk (including access point) in and be good to go? I ought to mention, I still have the old wireless router that I used before Verizon sent me a replacement; it's an Actiontec mi424wr. Is there anything I can still use this for, like as an access point? Simple and foolproof is the name of the game here; if I've got to do a bunch of stuff to make it useful it's probably not worth it to me. jackpot fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Dec 21, 2013 |
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Dec 21, 2013 02:45
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The OP is old and it looks like a few folks have asked but I haven't seen any responses. What's the best router these days? I don't have a complicated set up, a media center PC in the den, xbox, ps3, wired pc in the office. VVVV I'm asking which router is considered the best out right now. Which router should I buy? AnimalChin fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Dec 21, 2013 |
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Dec 21, 2013 06:53
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AnimalChin posted:The OP is old and it looks like a few folks have asked but I haven't seen any responses. What's complicated about this? It's the ideal use case for a router
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Dec 21, 2013 08:03
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I just got back an old WRT54G from a friend who no longer needed it. It's been awhile but I think it has DDWRT on it. I was hoping to use it as a WiFi extender for my network. Right now the front of my house is kinda meh with wifi for some reason. I'm running a E2000 with TomatoUSB. What would I need to do to get it working?
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Dec 22, 2013 01:28
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calandryll posted:I just got back an old WRT54G from a friend who no longer needed it. It's been awhile but I think it has DDWRT on it. I was hoping to use it as a WiFi extender for my network. Right now the front of my house is kinda meh with wifi for some reason. I'm running a E2000 with TomatoUSB. What would I need to do to get it working? If you can run a cable between them you can make it a Wireless Access Point by: Changing the WRT54G's IP address on the LAN to not be the same as your main router (if you main router is 192.168.1.1 make the WAP 192.168.1.2). Turn off DHCP on the WAP so both routers don't try to assign addresses. Make the wifi settings (SSID, WPA2 passphrase) identical. Put both routers on different Wifi channels that are fairly far apart (ex. channel 1 and 11). Plug a LAN port on your main router into the LAN port of the WAP. This will make it a wireless access point and switch for your network so it's not routing anything except LAN traffic. If it's got DD-WRT I think there's an option to turn the WAN port into an extra LAN port on the WRT54G but I can't remember where exactly it is.
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Dec 22, 2013 02:55
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My Cisco E3000 router that's served me well died today, not sure if it's because the power brick wasn't actually universal (just moved to Germany) or if it was finally time. The lights up top keep flickering, it's definitely not blinking so I don't think I'll be able to recover it. Anyone have suggestions on a 450MBps dual-band router? Seems the prices have dropped since I bought mine and I'd like the speed to match the 450Mbps Trendnet adapter for my PC. Edit: To be clear, I'm looking for something that can do dual-band with 5Ghz 450Mbps. Edit Edit: From the OP the ASUS RT-N66U seems like a good option, are there any other I should consider? VAT adds $25 in Germany  Edit Edit Edit: Just going to make a list now - Asus RT-N66U - TP-Link TL-WDR4900 Ashex fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Dec 22, 2013 |
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Dec 22, 2013 13:12
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Rexxed posted:If you can run a cable between them you can make it a Wireless Access Point by: That's what I figured I was going to have to do. Only problem would be trying to run the cable to the other side of the house. I live in a trailer, while I can get under it, it's difficult running anything up to the floor.
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Dec 22, 2013 14:59
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I have these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00D8BGLMY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've installed the utility and there's a function in this you can use to upgrade the firmware. Problem is, I can't find the firmware on the TP-Link website. Any ideas where to get it? Googling has failed me.
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Dec 22, 2013 22:07
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Hello home networking thread! I am about to pull the trigger on a new router and am curious if the OP is up to date. The space rich option is the ASUS RT-N66U. Is the AC capable ASUS RT-AC66U an equally well loved choice? Nothing I own does AC (yet), but that doesn't dissuade me from getting it anyway. Does TomatoUSB run on it also? Are there any gotchas I should be warned about? I am comfortable flashing my router and configuring everything, I just haven't kept up with routers at all recently. I live in a 3700 sqft, 3 story house, with plaster walls. I will be wall mounting the router near the first floor ceiling by the stairs, in hopes of getting reasonable wireless coverage throughout. Given enough time, I will have most of the house hard wired, but that won't be for several months. General use cases for the router will be streaming media to two separate entertainment centers, gaming, and torrenting of Debian ISOs (all of these things may be happening at the same time). So I'd like to get something that can see regular fairly heavy use and not cook itself in 6 months. Edit: I see that this router was last discussed in September, and that there was a Tomato build for it then. Unfortunately the link in that post is dead now. I am fairly sure this router will be a good choice for my needs, I'm mostly wondering if there is something "newer and better" that isn't on my radar. armorer fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 23, 2013 14:20
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armorer posted:Hello home networking thread! I am about to pull the trigger on a new router and am curious if the OP is up to date. The space rich option is the ASUS RT-N66U. Is the AC capable ASUS RT-AC66U an equally well loved choice? Nothing I own does AC (yet), but that doesn't dissuade me from getting it anyway. Does TomatoUSB run on it also? Are there any gotchas I should be warned about? I am comfortable flashing my router and configuring everything, I just haven't kept up with routers at all recently. I did a bunch of research on this router and I'd actually advise against it. Tomato USB is available for it but I'm not sure how stable it is as the drivers are closed source. Ddwrt is available for it too but I haven't heard great things about it lately. Take a look at the TP-Link TL-WDR4900, it's got full OpenWRT support with slightly better specs depending on how you look at them. Edit Status of OpenWRT support for RT-N66U. I think it's the Toastman fork that has support for the RT-N66U Ashex fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 23, 2013 14:46
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The N66U is pretty much the best N router you can buy. It's supported perfectly by the newest Tomato builds by Shibby. The AC66U is a fine, if underwhelming product. I would personally just spend the extra $25 and get the Netgear R7000, which is the definitive AC router at the moment.
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Dec 24, 2013 14:41
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bobfather posted:The N66U is pretty much the best N router you can buy. It's supported perfectly by the newest Tomato builds by Shibby. Yeah I think that's what I'm going to do. Thanks!
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Dec 24, 2013 16:38
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Hoping someone can help me with this - probably a simple question that I'm just having a hard time to sort out mentally. I'm sending a Belkin dual-band router (running Tomato) to my brother, mostly because it has USB ports/DLNA server because I setup up the same thing for my mom and brother. He has an existing modem+router combo from Comcast that he's probably not going to bother getting rid of. I'd like him to be able to just plug it into the the back of his existing router and work in the following manner. -I need the router to sit on the network as a wired client (in order to access setup and to act as a samba/DLNA share), hopefully with it's own IP address allocated from the "real" router -Any network traffic connecting through wireless or any ethernet port needs to get DHCP assigned through the main router So my intention is that everything stays on the "main" network of the "main router", whether or not you connect vie the main router or the secondary router on either wired or wireless mode. I just need to be able to access an IP address of the secondary router in order to perform setup/maintenance, and for it to act as the samba server/dlna server is it normally would were it the "real" router. It looks like a lot of people do this by setting a static IP on the main network, but that doesn't really help with the easy setup aspect. I'm guessing if there's a way to do everything I want with a static IP, there's probably a way to do it via DHCP from the main router as well without changing anything else.
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Dec 25, 2013 20:52
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I'm looking for a router to act as a WAP in my house. All I need is 5ghz @ 300 mbit and gigabit switch ports. I prefer to spend as little as possible without sacrificing quality (ie my old netgear I had to turn upside down and put a fan on for it to be stable).
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Dec 26, 2013 22:51
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skipdogg posted:I'm looking for a router to act as a WAP in my house. All I need is 5ghz @ 300 mbit and gigabit switch ports. I prefer to spend as little as possible without sacrificing quality (ie my old netgear I had to turn upside down and put a fan on for it to be stable). I've found belkins f7d8301 line (n600 play hd) to be pretty good for $20-30 once flashed with tomatoUSB. As a bonus, it also has two USB ports for windows file sharing/media sharing/print sharing. Be careful buying other named variants (8302/7301 etc) as they drop one feature or another. The 4301 may be the same as the 8301, but watch out for any other variant.
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Dec 27, 2013 01:32
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I know absolutely nothing about networking, but I'm looking to upgrade FIOS and figure now is as good a time as any to check things out and upgrade them as required. Right now I'm on a 25/25 MBPS line that in reality gets about 6 MBPS. I plan on upgrading to the 50/25 option. I have two goals: 1. Maximize my speed over wireless. 2. Get a viable signal all throughout the house (it's a regular colonial house with the router on one end and I'd like signal in the garage on the other side). So what should I do? I don't own a modem or anything, so any guidance you guys have would be sincerely appreciated. Budget isn't terribly critical, but I'd rather not spend more than I have to.
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Dec 29, 2013 04:51
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I know absolutely nothing about networking, but I'm looking to upgrade FIOS and figure now is as good a time as any to check things out and upgrade them as required. Right now I'm on a 25/25 MBPS line that in reality gets about 6 MBPS. I plan on upgrading to the 50/25 option. I have two goals: FIOS generally comes with a modem/router combination device that does both bundled with the service. If it's very slow you should mention it to them and they might replace it (I have 25/50 service and actually get 38/58 or there abouts). The easiest way to get wireless on the other end of the house will be to get another router to act as a Wireless Access Point for the area that gets bad signal and run a wire between the FIOS modem/router and the WAP. Other less good options include the same thing but using power line connectors instead of a wire (if you don't want to run a cable). You could also try beefier antennas for the FIOS router to improve the signal in your house (if you don't want another device) though I can't recommend any particular kind since I just have the setup I mentioned of a WAP at the other end of my house.
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Dec 29, 2013 08:15
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So if I have 25/25 service with 802.11g I should be complaining that the router is poo poo? That works for me. Has anyone been offered that $100 red router that includes 802.11n? Seems lovely they wouldn't include it.
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Dec 29, 2013 15:40
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Rexxed posted:The easiest way to get wireless on the other end of the house will be to get another router to act as a Wireless Access Point for the area that gets bad signal and run a wire between the FIOS modem/router and the WAP. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Has anyone been offered that $100 red router that includes 802.11n? Seems lovely they wouldn't include it. Here's a story about getting that new router: I was complaining over chat to tech support about terrible wireless in my house, when the guy says "Are you trying to connect to the internet further than 10 feet from the router? Because that would be the reason for not being able to find the network. Verizon promises speed only on wired connections." And in the politest way I could manage, I said "It's 2013 and Verizon won't promise wireless internet outside of the room the router's in, are you loving kidding me?" I reminded the guy that I was still using the same router I'd gotten from Verizon when I signed up 6 years ago, and that's when he relented and offered to send me the new one.
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Dec 29, 2013 20:50
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Ended up going with Verizon. They refused to upgrade the router, but now I understand why. The one I currently have is now my property since it's more than three years old. Comcast didn't have a better deal so gently caress it, I'll figure out the router eventually. What would be a good replacement for the MI424WR that they issued me?
Beer4TheBeerGod fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Dec 29, 2013 |
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Dec 29, 2013 22:28
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I'm not really sure where to go with this. I got a Chrome cast for Christmas. Plugging it in and trying to set it up but my phone app can't find it to finish the set up. I'm running dd-wrt on a Linksys e2500. I've tried googling and trying what's been noted but it hasn't worked. Ideas?
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Dec 29, 2013 23:45
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Irritated Goat posted:I'm not really sure where to go with this. I got a Chrome cast for Christmas. Plugging it in and trying to set it up but my phone app can't find it to finish the set up. I'm running dd-wrt on a Linksys e2500. I've tried googling and trying what's been noted but it hasn't worked. Ideas? I've never used one but there is a Chromecast thread which might help: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3561652 They might send you back here if it's a wireless connectivity problem, though!
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Dec 30, 2013 01:06
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I was in the market for a new wireless router since I had an old Linksys T-mobile edition with DD-WRT loaded on it. It's been rock solid for years with no issues, which is why I've delayed upgrading it. After reading the recommendations in this thread, I bought an AEBS. This thing is wicked fast. My n-based devices that were previously under utilized by the old linksys feel lightning quick now. Set-up was kind of weird since it requires its own application instead of being web-based, and lacks a lot of customization, but I don't really need any of those bells and whistles. Just set it up and forget about it. I just wish there was a way to turn off hardware broadcast to the Airport Utility app (not SSID broadcast, the thing will make itself known to any devices with Apple's software) So, in short thanks thread
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Dec 30, 2013 07:24
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What's the 'best' consumer switch right now? I have three Ubiquiti access points, and I'm going to need about ten or so wired connections. Trunking would be a bonus, since I was hoping to play around with that on my Synology. A friend recommended the HP Procurve 1410, but I thought a sanity check in here couldn't hurt. It's for my house, but I do have a small rack and patch panel so space isn't a problem, and it can be a rackmount model, fan or fanless.
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Dec 30, 2013 19:29
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ephori posted:What's the 'best' consumer switch right now? I have three Ubiquiti access points, and I'm going to need about ten or so wired connections. Trunking would be a bonus, since I was hoping to play around with that on my Synology. A friend recommended the HP Procurve 1410, but I thought a sanity check in here couldn't hurt. It's for my house, but I do have a small rack and patch panel so space isn't a problem, and it can be a rackmount model, fan or fanless. The HP 1410 is a solid unmanaged switch. That said, unmanaged switches are basically all the same these days, and HP's tend to be slightly on the expensive side but come with a better warranty. Here's an inexpensive one that'll do the job. If you need/want basic managed functionality (VLANs, LACP, SNMP) then the HP 1810 v2 series is pretty good. The 24 port GigE version is about $200 new.
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Dec 30, 2013 19:49
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A power saving "green" switch is probably what you want, various vendors, TRENDnet are surprisingly not too bad: http://www.trendnet.com/products/products.asp?cat=58#tabs-68
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Dec 30, 2013 19:52
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I bought a netgear GS108T after returning a trendnet because the netgear was a little bit faster. What's your budget? There's a whole wonderful rainbow of switches that would work for you, but it all depends on what you're willing to pay.
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Dec 30, 2013 20:02
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I had kind of figured around $150, but I'm flexible if it's worth it. [Edit] That 1810 looks pretty good, actually.
ephori fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 30, 2013 20:11
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Lufiron posted:I was in the market for a new wireless router since I had an old Linksys T-mobile edition with DD-WRT loaded on it. It's been rock solid for years with no issues, which is why I've delayed upgrading it. After reading the recommendations in this thread, I bought an AEBS. This thing is wicked fast. My n-based devices that were previously under utilized by the old linksys feel lightning quick now. Set-up was kind of weird since it requires its own application instead of being web-based, and lacks a lot of customization, but I don't really need any of those bells and whistles. Just set it up and forget about it. I just wish there was a way to turn off hardware broadcast to the Airport Utility app (not SSID broadcast, the thing will make itself known to any devices with Apple's software) AEBS is the Airport Extreme Base Station? For $200?
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Dec 30, 2013 21:51
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:AEBS is the Airport Extreme Base Station? For $200? Yeah. The cost was a bit steep, but I wanted it to work much like my old linksys did. I read online reviews about other high end wireless routers that were similar in cost and performance such as the ASUS RT-AC66U, but comments left kept saying how they would have to restart the router daily to restore performance. I recently purchased a home and don't have time to flash and tinker with routers when there's renovations I'm doing myself, so I said gently caress it and bought the apple.
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Dec 30, 2013 22:03
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ephori posted:I had kind of figured around $150, but I'm flexible if it's worth it. [Edit] That 1810 looks pretty good, actually. The 1810s are pretty spiffy. We use them at a lot of client sites for splitting WAN connections and the like.
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Dec 30, 2013 22:07
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Lufiron posted:Yeah. The cost was a bit steep, but I wanted it to work much like my old linksys did. I read online reviews about other high end wireless routers that were similar in cost and performance such as the ASUS RT-AC66U, but comments left kept saying how they would have to restart the router daily to restore performance. I recently purchased a home and don't have time to flash and tinker with routers when there's renovations I'm doing myself, so I said gently caress it and bought the apple. I'm tossing the idea around of buying the 5th gen AEBS. Refurbs are 85 bucks right now and I don't need AC coverage. Used ones are going for around 50 bucks
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Dec 31, 2013 00:43
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