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Shifty Pony posted:Yes he has a guard for flying logs but nothing there to help him if the axe head were to make a break for it near the top of the rotation. Yeah that's the scary part of this; it's easy enough to not stick your hand in a lion's mouth, but what if the mouth starts chasing you? Needs a tube where the only opening is at the strike point and continuing some below (to prevent jamming).
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Dec 22, 2013 18:38
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thylacine posted:Well, it has some safety features, unlike the first one posted. Looks like it makes a big mess though. Hydraulics need to be designed with at least a basic understanding of the principles at work - otherwise you'll end up with either a uselessly weak tool, or one that blows itself the gently caress up from overpressure. With purely mechanical stuff, it's a lot easier to build on the "just weld poo poo to it until it kinda does what I want" principle.
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Dec 22, 2013 19:13
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Splizwarf posted:Yeah that's the scary part of this; it's easy enough to not stick your hand in a lion's mouth, but what if the mouth starts chasing you? Needs a tube where the only opening is at the strike point and continuing some below (to prevent jamming). A much safer setup would be a sort of trip hammer, preferably with a pair of spring-loaded locking levers so that it would only drop when both were pulled. That way you don't have a rapidly spinning axe head and both hands have to be clear of the workspace to trigger the action. Getting more force is then just a matter of adding more weight to the head of the hammer and making sure your gearing to the cam wheel is proper to let the engine lift the arm. It wouldn't be any more difficult to kludge together either.
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Dec 22, 2013 20:25
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Posted a couple weeks ago about the Range Rover Classic eating its water pump. Finally got around to replacing it this weekend. God drat are they expensive for these era Rovers. $250. Move forward a couple model years and the pumps are under $50. gently caress that poo poo. You can see where the blades of the pump made contact with the front and back of the housing. The bearing had about 1 inch of in-and-out play on it also. This allowed the fan to pull forward and contact the back of the radiator. Luckily it was only a few bent fins. Nothing too bad there.   Also, fan clutch nuts are the work of Satan himself. I wish Rover would decide if they want right or left handed threads on those fuckers. Yes, different years have different threads. We spent over an hour trying to get the drat thing off and only managed to tighten it on so hard we couldn't remove it. We ended up removing the water pump with the fan still attached. This was its own special brand of hell. Don't try this at home. I then took it to a local shop and slipped one of the guys  to get that piece of poo poo off the pump.But she's back together and driving. Now I can transport Xmas gifts in a couple days. There's no way I was strapping a bike to the top of the T-Bird. Christmas tree, fine, but no bikes.
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Dec 23, 2013 01:38
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Are the reverse-thread ones BMW-derived? Because BMW are big fans those 
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Dec 23, 2013 02:06
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yeeeuuuup. same one thats used on the BMW powered L322 too. Luck you the impeller didnt trash the cover completely. those arent cheap.
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Dec 23, 2013 03:05
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cursedshitbox posted:yeeeuuuup. same one thats used on the BMW powered L322 too. Last time I removed a fan clutch was on a '97 D-90 I believe. I swear it was right hand thread. Maybe it was a Disco. I can't remember now. But I know it was right handed. The cover is really just cosmetic scratches. It sounded like holy hell when it went though. I've done a couple water pumps in Rovers and never seen one like that with so much forward/back play.
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Dec 23, 2013 03:38
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Serp belt is right hand. Poly V is left hand. theres only two pumps for NAS Rover v8 I've seen some really bashed to poo poo covers that still work.
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Dec 23, 2013 04:54
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jammyozzy posted:"Why make it simple when complicated will do?" I dunno man using air from the spare tire to spray windshield washer fluid is a pretty simple thing. 
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Dec 23, 2013 08:32
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Kill-9 posted:Last time I removed a fan clutch was on a '97 D-90 I believe. I swear it was right hand thread. Maybe it was a Disco. I can't remember now. But I know it was right handed. Landrover clearly don't want people to to remove fans!. I've never managed to get the clutch apart on mine and have always removed the whole assembly from the pump pulley by spending hours removing the 4 nuts & bolts behind the fan by hand turning them one flank at a time using a stubby/custom bent spanner.
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Dec 23, 2013 10:42
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Tomarse posted:Landrover clearly don't want people to to remove fans!. I've never managed to get the clutch apart on mine and have always removed the whole assembly from the pump pulley by spending hours removing the 4 nuts & bolts behind the fan by hand turning them one flank at a time using a stubby/custom bent spanner. The nut is rather easy to get to on the RRC with an adjustable wrench. I know on the 90 it was a right bitch to get to without the correct tool. The hard part is holding the pulley in place while cranking on it. Again, easier with the right tool. It got a healthy does of anti-sieze when it was reassembled this time. Nevermore.
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Dec 23, 2013 15:40
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Kill-9 posted:The nut is rather easy to get to on the RRC with an adjustable wrench. I know on the 90 it was a right bitch to get to without the correct tool. The hard part is holding the pulley in place while cranking on it. Again, easier with the right tool. It got a healthy does of anti-sieze when it was reassembled this time. Nevermore. What about an impact?
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Dec 23, 2013 16:42
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StormDrain posted:What about an impact? If you could see the location of the nut you'd understand why that doesn't work. This pic is close(not from a Rover obviously as there's easy access to the nut) but imagine the nut is tucked more up behind the blades of the fan and you need to get to it at an angle.  Also, it helps if you're not cranking on it the wrong direction for an hour too. 
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Dec 23, 2013 17:08
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Kill-9 posted:The hard part is holding the pulley in place while cranking on it. I made a tool for that. 
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Dec 23, 2013 17:27
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xarph posted:I dunno man using air from the spare tire to spray windshield washer fluid is a pretty simple thing. What.
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Dec 23, 2013 17:53
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xarph posted:I dunno man using air from the spare tire to spray windshield washer fluid is a pretty simple thing. What. edit :  
buttcrackmenace fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Dec 23, 2013 |
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Dec 23, 2013 17:54
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That's an air-cooled VW thing, isn't it?
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Dec 23, 2013 17:55
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Phy posted:What. The original beetles had a hose that went from the spare tire to the washer fluid reservoir to pressurize it.
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Dec 23, 2013 17:58
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xzzy posted:The original beetles had a hose that went from the spare tire to the washer fluid reservoir to pressurize it. I really want to be surprised, but I'm not. Thanks thread!
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Dec 23, 2013 18:04
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xzzy posted:The original beetles had a hose that went from the spare tire to the washer fluid reservoir to pressurize it. So the washer reservoir was pressurized? Or was there some way to only send air pressure into the reservoir on demand? And some way to keep all that poo poo from leaking (with 1940's tech)? Also guessing that this system didn't work very well in cold temperatures. And how is this cheaper than using a tiny electric pump and relay Again, what.
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Dec 23, 2013 18:11
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xzzy posted:The original beetles had a hose that went from the spare tire to the washer fluid reservoir to pressurize it. I imagine that works just great, until you want to use the spare tire as, y'know, a spare tire. Now it's flat, because you were cleaning your windshield. Superior German technology. Clever, but stupid.
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Dec 23, 2013 18:19
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JayKay posted:I really want to be surprised, but I'm not. Thanks thread! Added bonus: VW sold an accessory that you could screw into a spark plug hole and would function as an air pump. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5096462
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Dec 23, 2013 18:20
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buttcrackmenace posted:So the washer reservoir was pressurized? Or was there some way to only send air pressure into the reservoir on demand? And some way to keep all that poo poo from leaking (with 1940's tech)? Yes, it was permanently pressurized (well, as long as you kept the spare tire topped off). The release was completely mechanical as well, you pressed a button on the dashboard and it opened a valve and water (in theory) sprayed up on your window. I have no idea how much they leaked.. I drove a '66 for 10 years and literally never used the washer once. I can't imagine it would have worked well if I had tried, especially once all the tubes were 40 years old and had been baked under California sun. Just keep in mind that the car came from a completely different era of motoring history. Keeping one of those things on the road was an endless maintenance cycle. The good news is if you forgot something you could fix almost anything on the side of the road. The bad news is it probably happened ever few thousand miles.
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Dec 23, 2013 18:28
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On the buses it didnt use the spare you have to pump up the reservoir with a bicycle pump. Mine still had that setup in 1970, yep.
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Dec 23, 2013 19:04
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Darchangel posted:I imagine that works just great, until you want to use the spare tire as, y'know, a spare tire. Now it's flat, because you were cleaning your windshield. Superior German technology. Clever, but stupid. It's such a fine line between stupid, and uh...
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Dec 23, 2013 19:17
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xzzy posted:Yes, it was permanently pressurized (well, as long as you kept the spare tire topped off). The release was completely mechanical as well, you pressed a button on the dashboard and it opened a valve and water (in theory) sprayed up on your window. I have no idea how much they leaked.. I drove a '66 for 10 years and literally never used the washer once. I can't imagine it would have worked well if I had tried, especially once all the tubes were 40 years old and had been baked under California sun. The setup in my '71 worked surprisingly well, with one exception. The connection at the tire leaked slightly around the hose. So the sprayer would work for about 5 minutes until all the air had leaked from the tire. Another fun fact, my '71 still had its factory spare that still held air and had no dry rot/cracking. I never had it use it thankfully.
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Dec 23, 2013 19:45
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InterceptorV8 posted:I'm pretty sure this belongs here: Those big rear end pieces of cottonwood are a bitch. I've done enough of them that I'd do the same thing. Those guys have to be from around here.
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Dec 23, 2013 19:58
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Motronic posted:I made a tool for that. So did I, out of an old TV wall mount. I then proceeded to tighten that bitch so hard with it I was hosed. I was quite tempted to throw out the fan and install electric fans while I was in there then I realized I really needed those pullies so I had to get that drat nut off. Oh, and in classic Rover fashion I broke off one of the water pump bolts when putting it back on. I've done three water pumps on Rovers and I'm 3-for-3 on breaking off that bolt at aboutt 1 o'clock on the front of the pump. Are those things made out of spaghetti noodles? Luckily, I used enough sealant and there's two bolts in close proximity to keep it sealed. Drove it into work this morning and nary a drop to be see. Also, the gauge is reading lower than it ever has. I guess that pump had been dying for a while. The bright side is that the weather was in the 60-70s this weekend so it was nice being and working outside. I don't know how you guys up north do that poo poo in winter. Heated garages I'd hope.
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Dec 23, 2013 20:00
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Kill-9 posted:If you could see the location of the nut you'd understand why that doesn't work. This pic is close(not from a Rover obviously as there's easy access to the nut) but imagine the nut is tucked more up behind the blades of the fan and you need to get to it at an angle. I remember doing this fondly on my various m30 powered cars. I might add that anti seize doesn't do poo poo, I've tried it before and it was just as cunty to remove the next time. I think the end of the thread gets somewhat compressed/peened and it makes it impossible to dislodge without an impact or holding the pulley with another tool. ninja edit: in fact I would swear that's either an e23 or an e24.
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Dec 23, 2013 20:41
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xzzy posted:Added bonus: VW sold an accessory that you could screw into a spark plug hole and would function as an air pump. Wait wait wait. What about the fuel?
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Dec 23, 2013 21:41
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Splizwarf posted:Wait wait wait. What about the fuel? They were valved so they pull outside air into the cylinder and prevent the vacuum that would draw the normal fuel/air mixture.
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Dec 23, 2013 21:43
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So what, you ran the car as a stationary 3 cylinder and it became an air pump? That's...kind of clever? Sort of?
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Dec 23, 2013 21:46
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Splizwarf posted:Wait wait wait. What about the fuel? I was curious about this too. Apparently it used cylinder pressure to drive a piston, so it drew air from inside the engine compartment rather than making a tire-bomb. Without the spark plug, of course, you'd still be shooting unburned gas out the exhaust, but in the days before cats that wasn't such a big deal unless you'd gotten the exhaust manifold really hot.
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Dec 23, 2013 21:46
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Slavvy posted:So what, you ran the car as a stationary 3 cylinder and it became an air pump? That's...kind of clever? Sort of? That's how most older large air compressors work that I've seen (you know, the old poo poo ones that you tow behind a truck to run a jackhammer). Who knows...they may still work that way but I exclusively use old junk. Usually it's a couple cylinders though.
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Dec 23, 2013 21:53
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More failures!  Jet Ski motor that decided to throw a rod.
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Dec 23, 2013 22:34
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CommieGIR posted:More failures! Looks like a Kawi 1100, maybe 900? Crank should be the same. That's not a particularly spectacular failure of a rod in such a motor. Owner neglect and abuse is hard on the big end and wrist pin bearings, causing that kind of thing. I don't see a (big) hole in the side of the case, which is what usually happens. In most cases, a core exchange for a rebuilt engine is the best way to go. Those cranks are not user serviceable.
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Dec 23, 2013 23:10
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TotalLossBrain posted:I don't see a (big) hole in the side of the case, which is what usually happens. In most cases, a core exchange for a rebuilt engine is the best way to go. Those cranks are not user serviceable. It broke off at the wrist and there is a big chink in the cylinder at the bottom, I'll get a better picture tomorrow.
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Dec 23, 2013 23:12
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How much power does one of these make? Are they geared in any way? I don't know poo poo about jetskis but a 2T 1100cc is pretty impressive in motorbike terms.
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Dec 24, 2013 00:44
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The 4 stroke BRP puts in their high end seadoos are 1.5 liter, supercharged, and still only 215hp. The current rotax 800r e-tec they put in skidoos is 160hp from an 800cc 2 cylinder. You can slap a turbo on them for 240hp, and that's far more impressive.
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Dec 24, 2013 00:58
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Slavvy posted:How much power does one of these make? Are they geared in any way? I don't know poo poo about jetskis but a 2T 1100cc is pretty impressive in motorbike terms. This one has the water pump straight connected to the crank.
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Dec 24, 2013 01:08
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