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**Trip Report - Turtle Wax Rinseless Car Wash** $8 at my local Autozone. I'm in an apartment complex that disallows car washing. This made washing my two cars a breeze - but I do recommend doing so more than once every three months! The Reef Blue MINI still needs another wash after doing the rinseless, then taking it to a bay wash and rinsing it down some more. 3 months of accumulated ick and two snowstorms on it - I had low expectations, and got better results than I expected because it shows dirt like it were black. I had the car a month before I realized that the roof is black. When I picked it out, it still had the white shipping sheets on it.   On the other hand, the Alpine White M3 that's been sitting accumulating dust for three months looks pretty good even after completely halfassing it because the wind was so strong it tipped my buckets over. There's so little runoff from the process that I could comfortably wash the cars in the garage. I need more and better drying towels. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 23:26
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 12:36 |
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I've been using the Rinseless wash and I like it. adam's Polishes just released their version and I am going to try that out, I've had good results with their products so far.
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Dec 17, 2013 01:52
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I got all of my crap in today! Gonna go experiment on my coworker's car on Sunday. I hope you guys like Nexus 4 photos (they're dogshit)!
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Dec 17, 2013 01:55
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How does the rinseless work? Do you just squirt it on and wipe it down with a towel?
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Dec 17, 2013 05:58
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QuarkMartial posted:How does the rinseless work? Do you just squirt it on and wipe it down with a towel? You mix up a bucket of wash solution like regular soap and water. Wipe the car down with the wash solution and wipe that dry as you go. What you're describing is more considered a "waterless wash".
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Dec 17, 2013 06:49
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Well, things could have been a lot worse for my first time using my Griot's DA. I used my coworker's car as the test bed and we spent about 10 hours messing with it. I only made one pass of the M105, but I now know why people say that trying to do major paint correction with a DA is awful. The paint on his car was pretty bad, but I think we hit the right amount of effort for how crap the paint is. It's a 2000 Mazda Miata with about the past 5-6 years of it's life being a track beater. Fun fact: if it's metal, it has a clearcoat, plastics are single stage! Products used: Meguiars M105 Menzerna PF2500 Menzerna PF4500 (only on the hood, we couldn't see poo poo because it was like 10pm) Menzerna Power Lock sealant Before:    After:   
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Dec 22, 2013 22:20
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I have a lot of grey plastic that I would like to make black again, some lovely generic black shine restorer did nothing, any suggestions?
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Dec 22, 2013 23:45
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A heat gun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQs2ik1dzzE
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Dec 23, 2013 00:22
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Would a rattlecan of black vinyl dye work?
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Dec 24, 2013 18:46
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Use a heat gun. There are other videos out there, but this guy is the most entertaining. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S59fh-6Saaw
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Dec 25, 2013 07:47
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Kenny Rogers posted:Use a heat gun. Wow, that top box is a complete transformation. I'll pick one of those up.
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Dec 25, 2013 20:50
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What are good options for cleaning a transmission covered in old gear oil if I don't have access to a hose? I'm swapping a parts car transmission into my M3 but it had a bad selector rod seal and probably rear main seal. I don't need to get it perfect, I'd just like to remove the layer of crap that is all over the rear.
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Dec 26, 2013 19:14
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Good degreaser, a selection of cheap brushes with a variety of size and stiffness, and one of those pump-up garden sprayers to rinse off, that should work well, especially if you put hot water in it. If it's really mucky and baked on, wallpaper scrapers are good for getting the majority of it off, and there is also a lot to be said for using something cheap like paraffin or petrol to do most of the work, and finishing off with the "good" degreaser as a last step. Also, gloves, clothes and a work area which are all okay to get a splatter-pattern of oil from the brushing. I have a small (kettle-sized) steam cleaner which, although very limited in cycle time, is great for spot-cleaning small areas when you just want to remove a component without dirt getting into the hole from around the edge.
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Dec 26, 2013 19:25
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I wonder how well this sort of repair holds up? My CR-V is the first thing I've owned that both has a lot of grey plastic and also want to keep looking reasonably nice.
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Dec 26, 2013 19:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:I wonder how well this sort of repair holds up? My CR-V is the first thing I've owned that both has a lot of grey plastic and also want to keep looking reasonably nice. Most of the whitening I see is from people improperly waxing those plastic parts. If your plastic is good now, I'd suggest using Turtle Wax Ice wax. I've had a lot of cars with that damned plastic crap and I've never found another wax that doesn't whiten it if you bump into the plastic when you're waxing... in fact, you can use the wax right over the black plastic and it doesn't whiten it. I had a ton of that plastic stuff on the XC90 I sold last year and it did a great job. I use it on the bottom of the bumpers of my Cadillac right now, same result.
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Dec 26, 2013 19:53
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EVERYWHERE 
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So I got a PC buffer for Christmas and I need pads and polish. Here's what I have in my Amazon cart so far: 3x Lake Country Yellow 3x Lake Country Blue 3x Lake Country Green m205, m105, and ultimate polish. I'm looking for a well-rounded set so I won't have to buy anything for a while. Am I on the right track with these items?
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Dec 28, 2013 01:22
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revmoo posted:So I got a PC buffer for Christmas and I need pads and polish. Here's what I have in my Amazon cart so far: 205 is ultimate polish; so you can scratch that. Everything else looks great. What car is this for?
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Dec 28, 2013 02:06
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Cool didn't know that. What liquids or pads (if any) should I add? More compound, or more finishing polishes? Do I need more steps in the process? I'll probably do 5-10 different cars in the first year. My first test project will probably be an ex Civic with Maaco single-stage that is surprising uniform but totally matte. Otherwise, most of the jobs I'll be doing would probably be considered mid-range in the cutting need, ie there will be clearcoat and it will be intact but will have never been corrected or maintained. I think I'd rather err on the deep cut side, because most of the cars I'll be doing won't be supercars and won't need to be finished off in the same way.
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Dec 28, 2013 02:15
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Ok cool; some cars *cough* Corvettes *cough* are notorious for horrendously hard paint which require 105 on a wool pad sometimes to buff. It looks like everything is good to go; I would get some Megs D103: http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-all-purpose-cleaner-plus-d103.html That stuff will clean the hell out of any cars you want to polish and buff, and works well for interior cleaning as well. You may want to look into getting some upholstery brushes for your PC as well for interior cleaning.
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Dec 28, 2013 02:22
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I would say learn how the M105 behaves on your 7424XP, and then buy a rotary immediately because using a DA with the M105 loving sucks. Only doing 1 pass on a Miata destroyed an Uber yellow pad. I need to see how bad the paint is on my Mazda2 and order a few more cutting pads. If I need to do any correction, I'll probably buy a small thing of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, and then polish it with the Menzerna SF2500 and SF4500 that I have. I couldn't see it when I was working on it, but the very fine polish on a pad that can't cut makes a huge difference.
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Dec 28, 2013 03:54
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Phone posted:I would say learn how the M105 behaves on your 7424XP, and then buy a rotary immediately because using a DA with the M105 loving sucks. Only doing 1 pass on a Miata destroyed an Uber yellow pad. If you are destroying pads after a single pass; you are doing something terribly wrong. 0_o
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Dec 28, 2013 04:03
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Single pass of the entire car. It started to tear a bit on the last panel.
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Dec 28, 2013 05:23
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Phone posted:Single pass of the entire car. It started to tear a bit on the last panel. That sounds like a very defective pad. I have used pads for 5+ cars before without issue.
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Dec 28, 2013 06:51
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I guess I was being too aggressive with the pad cleaning brush.
Phone fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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Dec 28, 2013 06:56
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ratbert90 posted:I have used pads for 5+ cars before without issue. I don't know why new pads would get destroyed like this. I have used pads for 5+ years without issue. Wash them after use and use them over and over...
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Dec 28, 2013 12:14
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Fffff apparently stainless steel racks from Target rust and now my green and blue pad have some surface rust.  Oh well, I was hoping to wait for it to warm up a bit before tackling the 2.
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Dec 28, 2013 17:45
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So what's the preferred method for washing used microfiber towels and the like? I just finished my first real wash/clay/wax on my car and just tossed all the towels and wash mitts into a small laundry load and now my mitts have wax particles all over them and all my towels smell vaguely of wax. I'm assuming I've screwed up here. 
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Jan 5, 2014 05:57
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Go to Costco and buy a huge pack for like $20. Cold wash, air dry or mega low heat. Also since they are like a dollar a piece I just throw em out when they get lovely. Hi Trisk.
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Jan 5, 2014 06:14
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Chinatown posted:Go to Costco and buy a huge pack for like $20. Hi Chinatown. When you say cold wash do you mean by hand or in the laundry machine? I will take a look for them at Costco. Everything I bought now for babby's first detail was from WalMart.
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Jan 5, 2014 08:27
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I just machine wash, but only use the used ones for drying and interior work. I use the total poo poo ones to detail the wheels or other really dirty places and just throw em out. I also keep a few in the trunk/glovebox for spills/birdshit/etc. I prefer to use the new ones for any/all rubbing on the paint.
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Jan 5, 2014 09:00
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Hi Trisk and Chinatown, I miss TF2. Yeah, I'm kind of the same way seeing how decent microfiber is kinda of cheap.
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Jan 5, 2014 09:13
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Trisk posted:So what's the preferred method for washing used microfiber towels and the like? I just finished my first real wash/clay/wax on my car and just tossed all the towels and wash mitts into a small laundry load and now my mitts have wax particles all over them and all my towels smell vaguely of wax. I'm assuming I've screwed up here. They go in the laundry with all the other kitchen/wash mittens and towels, and then set on the highest temperature washing program, no wax residue remains after that. It's not exactly good for longevity, but so isn't throwing them right away.
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Jan 5, 2014 13:01
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Alright, I'm in the middle of bringing back a Toyota Super Red that is fully top-faded. I tried going through the regular compound steps on one section and it did a good job, but it was still cloudy. I let the rest of the panels sit in Meguiars Hand Polish, and the paint just sucked it up and the hand polish alone brought back a ton of gloss. I think the paint was just super, super dry. I think this paint will take to a glaze in a great way, but I haven't bought product like that in a long time, what are the best current glazes (late in the polishing process, but before waxing/sealing)?
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Jan 5, 2014 13:41
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About a month ago, I clay barred my car and applied sealant and wax (Klasse twins + carnauba.) Recently, I had my car parked outside for about two weeks. I washed my car but it ain't as glassy smooth as it was when I had previously washed it. If I clay bar, will I need to start over with the sealant? I'm hoping that this is just a one-time thing since I had it parked outside instead of in the garage and that I'll be fine with just regular washing and waxing sans clay bar.
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Jan 7, 2014 20:11
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If you use a clay bar, you'll remove the sealant/wax with the clay. Sealant lasts between 6 to 12 months. Wax lasts about 2 to 3 months. You shouldn't need to wash, clay, and wax every two weeks.
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Jan 7, 2014 20:33
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Phone posted:If you use a clay bar, you'll remove the sealant/wax with the clay.
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Jan 9, 2014 07:27
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krnhotwings posted:In that case, would you suggest sticking with regular washes, no carnauba wax, and wait it out 'til I need to reapply sealant before I clay bar again? I'm guessing that waxing the car could create light scratches in the paint because of the contaminants sitting on the surface. You're overthinking it. If you went through the process on it a month ago, just wash it. If you want more gloss, wax it. If the wax you're using isn't maintaining the gloss you're looking for over a long enough time period, change wax.
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Jan 9, 2014 12:33
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I'm trying to get some badly etched water spots out of my paint. Did a test section today with Meg's UC and orange LC pads. After 3x6 passes it hasn't made any impact. Would the next logical step be M105?
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Jan 11, 2014 05:28
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Use a yellow pad?
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Jan 11, 2014 05:42
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Ah I must have read that orange was the toughest. I think the gold finishing pad threw me. Ordered two yellow.
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Jan 11, 2014 07:40
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